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Old 08-19-2013, 10:36 AM   #20026
ChromeSux
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlaws View Post
My brakes feel very spongy and won't engage until after halfway pressed in. Can someone please tell me what's the easiest and fail proof way of bleeding the brakes?
Insure fluid level, bump brake, hold brake, loosen nipple, fluid squirts out, follow down with lever, tighten nipple, repeat, check fluid level, check to see if you have firm brakes, if not repeat process.

If that fails, i have had good luck doing it by injecting fluid from the nipple end, you will need a way of injecting fluid, and be careful that fluid does not over flow. i Had a master cyl on a Norton re sleeved, the instructions said to do it that way, it came with a large injector.

ChromeSux screwed with this post 08-19-2013 at 10:44 AM
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:38 PM   #20027
wingam00
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: SouthWest GA and Western NC
Oddometer: 535
Quote:
Originally Posted by carlclaflin View Post
great information. ok, so what type of slime? after my last ride, where a spoke broke and popped my tube. long story short, i got fixed up and back home.
[IMG][/IMG]

Old trick is to tie your spokes together where they cross over each other. Small tie straps or small wire works. Cheap and easy insurance.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:54 AM   #20028
DualSportDad
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Cape Coral, Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abelha View Post
Guys, I was on a trip for 2 weeks got home and went to the garage to take my DRZ400E for a ride and as soon as I opened the fuel tap gasoline started pouring through not only one but two hoses on the underside of the bike(Drain as I understand). If i open the tap, gas comes out, close the tap and it stops. I managed to get the bike running trying to start it with the tap on OFF and as soon as I open the tap with the bike still running the engine stalls with low RPM.
I remember reading somewhere that if you hit the lower part of the carb with the butt of a screwdriver it my unstuck the float. I did it (with the strength I thought was appropriate) and nothing... still the same.

Getting it towed to my mechanic really breaks my balls, since i'm very low on time to deal with things.

Any ideas guys?
O-ring for the float seat is dried up. Might as well replace the seat as well as it seems to get damaged trying to remove it.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:16 PM   #20029
See-Three
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: New Hampshire Seacoast
Oddometer: 143
Hey everyone, got an electrical question.

I recently had the running filament on my brake light go out on me. It was night time and I had a 2 hour ride home so I took the light bulb out and reinstalled in backwards so that the brake light was always on... Anyway, today I just bought a replacement LED bulb, which works fine other than when i apply my front or rear brake it turns on my right blinker lights....

Is the LED bulb messing with me or did i screw something up by running the other bulb backwards?

I've got one of these same LED lights in a different bike and it works just fine.

Thanks
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:33 AM   #20030
Chef Gareth
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Toowoomba QLD
Oddometer: 227
Hi I just bought a 2008 DRZe
Its got 4500km, comes with suspention set up, fmf pipe, bashplate, bars and barkbusters and a few other bits. Just need to get a safari tank and wolfman panniers and im set.

Any known problems I should ask before I pick up ?

Will be joining you guys in hear now, thanks to those that answered my questions about the drz vs xr.

Don't pick it up for a few weeks but I am stocked
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:20 AM   #20031
Gian
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I'm just curious: is there anyone who has tried to use the QuadSport/LT 400 Fuel Injection system on a DRZ?

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product%...13/LTZ400.aspx
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:53 AM   #20032
SquadraCorse
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Location: San Jose, Cali
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I'm getting ready for the Black River Stages rally and did the KTM fork mod on my DRZ. I had some guide adapter blocks 3D printed as they original KTM guide mounts are no longer available.





Also swapping out the buell headlight to (2) VisionX Optimus Rounds since a lot of these stages will be at night. I also have (2) rigid duallies to go along with them:

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Old 08-21-2013, 01:56 PM   #20033
drztroy
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Location: sunshine coast queensland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlaws View Post
My brakes feel very spongy and won't engage until after halfway pressed in. Can someone please tell me what's the easiest and fail proof way of bleeding the brakes?
i do reverse bleeds on mine,, its easier to make the air go up than down,, you just need a small suringe and a piece of tube that fits the bleed nipple , remember to take resivour cap off,, full proof way of doing it and very afective . make sure you take it for a small ride to get use to the feel before going a 100mph through the bush, you should get great feel out of both brakes by bleeding them this way.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:10 PM   #20034
George 99
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Location: Kingman, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquadraCorse View Post
I'm getting ready for the Black River Stages rally and did the KTM fork mod on my DRZ. I had some guide adapter blocks 3D printed as they original KTM guide mounts are no longer available.
This is the first I've heard of anyone using 3D printing for a motorcycle part. Good on ya for being a pioneer.

(Think we'll ever be able 3D print new tires at home? )
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:13 PM   #20035
George 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gian View Post
I'm just curious: is there anyone who has tried to use the QuadSport/LT 400 Fuel Injection system on a DRZ?

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product%...13/LTZ400.aspx
Great idea if the intake port on the head are the same, would be a pretty simple bolt up. On that thought, tho, why Suzuki? Pretty much any single cylinder FI system off a similar size and function motor would work.

Price would be the stopper on anything like this, but maybe not exorbitant compared to some of the carburetors out there.

Anone? Bueller?
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #20036
George 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacelord View Post
Drain the bowl, tap it again. It may take a couple of times.
Spacelord, I have a very similar X-Ray from this June, right hand tho.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:59 PM   #20037
SquadraCorse
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You can actually get the stuff printed in stainless steel if you want to pay for it. I had the adapters done in white nylon, which is light, strong, and cheap. They have a curved slot all the way through that the hose clamp passes through. Would be tough to make it that way by hand!

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Old 08-21-2013, 03:42 PM   #20038
Nashvegas
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Canton, GA
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drz 400 rear suspension

I'm sure this has been covered but I don't have time to search through 1300+ pages.

I weigh 220lbs and it seems to be bottoming out.

So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.

Any advice??
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:56 PM   #20039
Spacelord
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George 99 View Post
Spacelord, I have a very similar X-Ray from this June, right hand tho.
I hope your Radiologist had a sense of humor.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:59 PM   #20040
George 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
It is possible. You'd want the cams, flywheel, stator and harness as well as all of the other stuff. Best to find a donor. The gains would be small... something like 3-5hp and I doubt that it would be perfect.



Absolutely not... at least not without a programmable ECU. Mapping is engine specific.

I dropped about $2k into the injection on my 470 with all new parts raided from the LT-Z400, LT-R450 and RM-Z450 parts bins. It was controlled by a uS ECU. That engine was sold for what I put into it. Over the last couple of months all of the bits (plus a few extras) have been gathered to do it again with the current engine. It will cost a little less the second time around.
The money only matters for those who don't have it to spend or if it is being counted against resale value.

You're right about the cost of carbs. I've got about $1100 in the current FCR (41 with all of the bells + mods + altitude compensator) which isn't a particularly expensive carb and another $400 in the ignition.

Either way there is quite a bit of dyno time to tune it properly and that costs $$$ if it has to be paid for.
I know a guy in Aurora, IL who builds FI Turbo Hyabusas. His own 'puter programs on a custom ECU with off-the-shelf FI injector bodies. They go fast. Certainly not cheap.
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