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Old 08-18-2013, 09:02 PM   #20026
Abelha
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Joined: Jun 2013
Oddometer: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacelord View Post
Drain the bowl, tap it again. It may take a couple of times.
How to I drain the bowl?
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:22 PM   #20027
markjenn
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Swellvue, WA
Oddometer: 10,365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abelha View Post
Any ideas guys?
Remove carb, fix stuck float valve. You can rap on it till the cows come home, but if you don't get lucky, you've got to remove the carb. If you don't have the mechanical chops to do the repair yourself, then you're going to have to truck/trailer it to your mechanic cause it won't run with a flooded carb.

- Mark
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:53 PM   #20028
Abelha
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Could this have been caused by leaving it still for just 2 weeks?
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:33 PM   #20029
lonekazoo
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Joined: Jun 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abelha View Post
Could this have been caused by leaving it still for just 2 weeks?
It could be caused by leaving it still for an HOUR, IF there was a piece of debris in there getting caught in the float. Two weeks isn't long enough for fuel to break down and begin leaving varnish, and I'm not sure a little varnish would cause one to stick.

I regularly leave my DRZ still for an entire winter (4+ months) and have not had a stuck float, or really even noticed the fuel going bad. On the other hand, on a bike I previously owned, a Concours C10, I drained the float bowls at least once a week to get rid of debris, because a stuck float on that bike can be catastrophic. I was always amazed at the crud and water that would come out of them sometimes.

lonekazoo screwed with this post 08-18-2013 at 10:38 PM
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:54 PM   #20030
Deltron
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Joined: Jun 2013
Oddometer: 32
Thanks for the replies guys, I went out for a short ride today with my friend and check the bike much more closely for the leak. I think I found it its pretty dark so Ill look tomorrow more closely.

I believe it is leaking at the house connecting to the waterpump area, its not the actual water pump leak that many seem to get.
I dont know what the name is but in this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yX-XFQ0_gXE

at 1:33 its that one if you pause, seems to be leaking right at the bottom were its connecting. (not plugging the product in video or anything)...

If that is the problem, could it be contributing to why my coolant is not flowing back into the radiators from overflow? May post some pictures later if it would help.

Deltron screwed with this post 08-19-2013 at 12:00 AM
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:11 AM   #20031
outlaws
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My brakes feel very spongy and won't engage until after halfway pressed in. Can someone please tell me what's the easiest and fail proof way of bleeding the brakes?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:36 AM   #20032
ChromeSux
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
Oddometer: 1,431
Quote:
Originally Posted by outlaws View Post
My brakes feel very spongy and won't engage until after halfway pressed in. Can someone please tell me what's the easiest and fail proof way of bleeding the brakes?
Insure fluid level, bump brake, hold brake, loosen nipple, fluid squirts out, follow down with lever, tighten nipple, repeat, check fluid level, check to see if you have firm brakes, if not repeat process.

If that fails, i have had good luck doing it by injecting fluid from the nipple end, you will need a way of injecting fluid, and be careful that fluid does not over flow. i Had a master cyl on a Norton re sleeved, the instructions said to do it that way, it came with a large injector.

ChromeSux screwed with this post 08-19-2013 at 10:44 AM
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:38 PM   #20033
wingam00
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: SouthWest GA and Western NC
Oddometer: 528
Quote:
Originally Posted by carlclaflin View Post
great information. ok, so what type of slime? after my last ride, where a spoke broke and popped my tube. long story short, i got fixed up and back home.
[IMG][/IMG]

Old trick is to tie your spokes together where they cross over each other. Small tie straps or small wire works. Cheap and easy insurance.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:54 AM   #20034
DualSportDad
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Cape Coral, Fl.
Oddometer: 2,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abelha View Post
Guys, I was on a trip for 2 weeks got home and went to the garage to take my DRZ400E for a ride and as soon as I opened the fuel tap gasoline started pouring through not only one but two hoses on the underside of the bike(Drain as I understand). If i open the tap, gas comes out, close the tap and it stops. I managed to get the bike running trying to start it with the tap on OFF and as soon as I open the tap with the bike still running the engine stalls with low RPM.
I remember reading somewhere that if you hit the lower part of the carb with the butt of a screwdriver it my unstuck the float. I did it (with the strength I thought was appropriate) and nothing... still the same.

Getting it towed to my mechanic really breaks my balls, since i'm very low on time to deal with things.

Any ideas guys?
O-ring for the float seat is dried up. Might as well replace the seat as well as it seems to get damaged trying to remove it.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:16 PM   #20035
See-Three
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: New Hampshire Seacoast
Oddometer: 140
Hey everyone, got an electrical question.

I recently had the running filament on my brake light go out on me. It was night time and I had a 2 hour ride home so I took the light bulb out and reinstalled in backwards so that the brake light was always on... Anyway, today I just bought a replacement LED bulb, which works fine other than when i apply my front or rear brake it turns on my right blinker lights....

Is the LED bulb messing with me or did i screw something up by running the other bulb backwards?

I've got one of these same LED lights in a different bike and it works just fine.

Thanks
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:33 AM   #20036
Chef Gareth
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Toowoomba QLD
Oddometer: 219
Hi I just bought a 2008 DRZe
Its got 4500km, comes with suspention set up, fmf pipe, bashplate, bars and barkbusters and a few other bits. Just need to get a safari tank and wolfman panniers and im set.

Any known problems I should ask before I pick up ?

Will be joining you guys in hear now, thanks to those that answered my questions about the drz vs xr.

Don't pick it up for a few weeks but I am stocked
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:20 AM   #20037
Gian
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: north east of Italy
Oddometer: 1,115
I'm just curious: is there anyone who has tried to use the QuadSport/LT 400 Fuel Injection system on a DRZ?

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product%...13/LTZ400.aspx
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:53 AM   #20038
SquadraCorse
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: San Jose, Cali
Oddometer: 133
I'm getting ready for the Black River Stages rally and did the KTM fork mod on my DRZ. I had some guide adapter blocks 3D printed as they original KTM guide mounts are no longer available.





Also swapping out the buell headlight to (2) VisionX Optimus Rounds since a lot of these stages will be at night. I also have (2) rigid duallies to go along with them:

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Old 08-21-2013, 01:56 PM   #20039
drztroy
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: sunshine coast queensland
Oddometer: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by outlaws View Post
My brakes feel very spongy and won't engage until after halfway pressed in. Can someone please tell me what's the easiest and fail proof way of bleeding the brakes?
i do reverse bleeds on mine,, its easier to make the air go up than down,, you just need a small suringe and a piece of tube that fits the bleed nipple , remember to take resivour cap off,, full proof way of doing it and very afective . make sure you take it for a small ride to get use to the feel before going a 100mph through the bush, you should get great feel out of both brakes by bleeding them this way.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:10 PM   #20040
George 99
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Location: Kingman, Arizona
Oddometer: 772
Quote:
Originally Posted by SquadraCorse View Post
I'm getting ready for the Black River Stages rally and did the KTM fork mod on my DRZ. I had some guide adapter blocks 3D printed as they original KTM guide mounts are no longer available.
This is the first I've heard of anyone using 3D printing for a motorcycle part. Good on ya for being a pioneer.

(Think we'll ever be able 3D print new tires at home? )
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