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Old 08-21-2013, 01:13 PM   #20041
George 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gian View Post
I'm just curious: is there anyone who has tried to use the QuadSport/LT 400 Fuel Injection system on a DRZ?

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product%...13/LTZ400.aspx
Great idea if the intake port on the head are the same, would be a pretty simple bolt up. On that thought, tho, why Suzuki? Pretty much any single cylinder FI system off a similar size and function motor would work.

Price would be the stopper on anything like this, but maybe not exorbitant compared to some of the carburetors out there.

Anone? Bueller?
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:19 PM   #20042
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Originally Posted by Spacelord View Post
Drain the bowl, tap it again. It may take a couple of times.
Spacelord, I have a very similar X-Ray from this June, right hand tho.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:59 PM   #20043
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You can actually get the stuff printed in stainless steel if you want to pay for it. I had the adapters done in white nylon, which is light, strong, and cheap. They have a curved slot all the way through that the hose clamp passes through. Would be tough to make it that way by hand!

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Old 08-21-2013, 02:42 PM   #20044
Nashvegas
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drz 400 rear suspension

I'm sure this has been covered but I don't have time to search through 1300+ pages.

I weigh 220lbs and it seems to be bottoming out.

So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.

Any advice??
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:56 PM   #20045
Spacelord
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Originally Posted by George 99 View Post
Spacelord, I have a very similar X-Ray from this June, right hand tho.
I hope your Radiologist had a sense of humor.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:59 PM   #20046
George 99
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Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
It is possible. You'd want the cams, flywheel, stator and harness as well as all of the other stuff. Best to find a donor. The gains would be small... something like 3-5hp and I doubt that it would be perfect.



Absolutely not... at least not without a programmable ECU. Mapping is engine specific.

I dropped about $2k into the injection on my 470 with all new parts raided from the LT-Z400, LT-R450 and RM-Z450 parts bins. It was controlled by a uS ECU. That engine was sold for what I put into it. Over the last couple of months all of the bits (plus a few extras) have been gathered to do it again with the current engine. It will cost a little less the second time around.
The money only matters for those who don't have it to spend or if it is being counted against resale value.

You're right about the cost of carbs. I've got about $1100 in the current FCR (41 with all of the bells + mods + altitude compensator) which isn't a particularly expensive carb and another $400 in the ignition.

Either way there is quite a bit of dyno time to tune it properly and that costs $$$ if it has to be paid for.
I know a guy in Aurora, IL who builds FI Turbo Hyabusas. His own 'puter programs on a custom ECU with off-the-shelf FI injector bodies. They go fast. Certainly not cheap.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:07 PM   #20047
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nashvegas View Post
I weigh 220lbs and it seems to be bottoming out.

So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.
The rear spring is probably inadequate for your weight. The proper solution is to fit a new higher-rate spring, but you can improve things somewhat by increasing spring preload as you've done. But its not really the proper solution to the correct spring rate - its more of a band-aid to reduce bottoming when you don't have the right spring. I'd do some reading about static sag and how to use it to setup springs and preload. You want about 25% or so of the total suspension travel to be used up by just your sitting on the bike with gear and in a normal riding position.

Their are two adjusters at the top of the shock - high and low speed compression damping. Dialing in a little more compression damping might reduce bottoming, but has the undesirable effect of making the suspension harsher. There is also a rebound damping adjustment at the bottom of the shock - this reduces the effect where the bike tends to bounce or wallow after bumps. Both are worth experimenting with, but I doubt they'll reduce bottoming much. The OM covers these adjustments.

Suspension setup is a bit of an art and I'd do some more reading.

- Mark
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:55 PM   #20048
Psycho18th
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
The rear spring is probably inadequate for your weight. The proper solution is to fit a new higher-rate spring, but you can improve things somewhat by increasing spring preload as you've done. But its not really the proper solution to the correct spring rate - its more of a band-aid to reduce bottoming when you don't have the right spring. I'd do some reading about static sag and how to use it to setup springs and preload. You want about 25% or so of the total suspension travel to be used up by just your sitting on the bike with gear and in a normal riding position.

Their are two adjusters at the top of the shock - high and low speed compression damping. Dialing in a little more compression damping might reduce bottoming, but has the undesirable effect of making the suspension harsher. There is also a rebound damping adjustment at the bottom of the shock - this reduces the effect where the bike tends to bounce or wallow after bumps. Both are worth experimenting with, but I doubt they'll reduce bottoming much. The OM covers these adjustments.

Suspension setup is a bit of an art and I'd do some more reading.

- Mark
Well put. If you have more money than time, a reputable suspension shop could do the mechanical work for you, then get it set up pretty close for your planned riding conditions. Otherwise, find another rider in your weight/ ability class that has a good setup, and attempt to copy it. Those are the only real shortcuts that will get you close.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:58 PM   #20049
Nashvegas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
The rear spring is probably inadequate for your weight. The proper solution is to fit a new higher-rate spring, but you can improve things somewhat by increasing spring preload as you've done. But its not really the proper solution to the correct spring rate - its more of a band-aid to reduce bottoming when you don't have the right spring. I'd do some reading about static sag and how to use it to setup springs and preload. You want about 25% or so of the total suspension travel to be used up by just your sitting on the bike with gear and in a normal riding position.

Their are two adjusters at the top of the shock - high and low speed compression damping. Dialing in a little more compression damping might reduce bottoming, but has the undesirable effect of making the suspension harsher. There is also a rebound damping adjustment at the bottom of the shock - this reduces the effect where the bike tends to bounce or wallow after bumps. Both are worth experimenting with, but I doubt they'll reduce bottoming much. The OM covers these adjustments.

Suspension setup is a bit of an art and I'd do some more reading.

- Mark
Thanks for the advice Mark. I don't have the owners manual as I bought it new but I think your explanation will help me experiment.

Greg
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:07 PM   #20050
coarsegoldkid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nashvegas View Post
I'm sure this has been covered but I don't have time to search through 1300+ pages.

I weigh 220lbs and it seems to be bottoming out.

So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.

Any advice??
Look at Race Tech or other suspension expert's web sites. They should have a method for you to enter a weight and riding style and calculate the spring rate. Removing the shock is kind of tricky but doable with a sturdy two rail jack-harbor freight has them as well as Sears. You can remove the spring in a sturdy vice and install the new one. Then mess with the clickers. However if the shock is a high mileage unit sent it in to the suspension experts for a rebuilt with fresh oil and seals and they will install the spring. It's only money.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:55 AM   #20051
Creeker747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Tomorrow we'll be in Singapore and Chennai the day after. Our bikes are waiting for us at the other end for a couple of months in India.
Way cool! Are you going to write a R/R about this ride?
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:18 AM   #20052
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
The Racetech site will recommend fork springs that are too stiff... it is a well known problem. 6.0 rear and not more than 0.50 front springs for a 100kg rider.

No vice or compressors are required. Back the pre-load rings and the whole lot will fall apart.
I weigh in at 235 lbs currently and run a 6.0 Racetech spring, I would say most guys would find it a tad stiff. It barely falls within loaded/unloaded sag numbers for me without gear. I weighed 255lbs when I installed it.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:22 AM   #20053
Greg MacD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
I weigh in at 235 lbs currently and run a 6.0 Racetech spring, I would say most guys would find it a tad stiff. It barely falls within loaded/unloaded sag numbers for me without gear. I weighed 255lbs when I installed it.
I am slowly converting my "S" into an SM, I have the SM forks that I am planing on leaving stock (as I cant find heaver rate springs) and I too was looking at putting a 6.0 in the rear, I am also around 230#.....what do you think, too stiff?
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:29 AM   #20054
slower_than_you
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So, anyone had any luck in converting a DRZ-E into a street legal version ? Is it as easy as Im thinking , minus the DMV headaches ? I really like my E and I think if I could ride it legally on he road ,Id like it even more -
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:11 AM   #20055
bobbed06
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Originally Posted by Greg MacD View Post
I am slowly converting my "S" into an SM, I have the SM forks that I am planing on leaving stock (as I cant find heaver rate springs) and I too was looking at putting a 6.0 in the rear, I am also around 230#.....what do you think, too stiff?
No, it would be perfect for that setup. I use the 6.0 kg rear with stock 2002 RM 250 front springs and the setup is very well balanced. SM bikes are supposed to be a tad stiffer than normal. Post Pics!!

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