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Old 08-24-2013, 09:56 AM   #20056
THRASHED
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: San Dimas, CA
Oddometer: 311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nashvegas View Post
I'm sure this has been covered but I don't have time to search through 1300+ pages.

I weigh 220lbs and it seems to be bottoming out.

So, can some one explain how to tighten up my rear suspension. I'm able to tighten the spring with a punch and hammer but I have no idea how to adjust the nitrogern bottle for the shock or even what it does but there is a screw in it that appears to be for adjustment.

Any advice??
You can search each thread from the tool bar. This is from pg1340 of this thread. I realize you were looking for Gas Settings, but as mentioned the issue is likely too light of a spring.

Race Tech shock springs in a wide range of spring rates to dial in your rear suspension to suit your weight (stock spring is 5.5 kg/nm). Recommended spring rates:
Rider weight w/gear (lbs)
Spring Rate
100 or less 4.6
100-124 4.8
125-149 5.0
150-174 5.2
175-199 5.4
200-224 5.7
225-274 6.0
275 + 6.3
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:55 PM   #20057
woodly1069
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Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills!
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DRZ Timing Chain Noises

Hey fellas I am wondering if you might be able to enlighten me about the new noises coming from the old 400E. Seems that maybe the chain is stretching or the guides are wearing cause I can readjust the manual cam chain tensioner and the noise will go away for a while but then it comes back after a 100 miles or so. At least until today anyway, now maybe every 50 miles. I am adjusting it correctly and the slapping noise will go away but then it comes back.

I guess I am wondering if this is a normal wearing of these items? If so, should I expect to replace the chain and guides only? Will the sprockets have wear too?

Thanks for any advice!
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:59 PM   #20058
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slower_than_you View Post
So, anyone had any luck in converting a DRZ-E into a street legal version ? Is it as easy as Im thinking , minus the DMV headaches ? I really like my E and I think if I could ride it legally on he road ,Id like it even more -
I converted my son's DRZ this spring. The one big surprise is that there were two versions of the E built in 2002, and mine happened to be the one that did not have the dual-filament bulb - so I had to buy a headlight, which was an unplanned expense.

A lot of the information posted on the Internet is for models other than the E, so it is sometimes hard to sort out the facts.

Here is my blog write up:

http://gardinerfamilyadventures.word...ct-march-2013/
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:36 PM   #20059
tdrrally
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the stock E 35w headlight sucks for road use !!

plan to buy a headlight
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:24 PM   #20060
BEEF706
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Location: Rio Rancho NM
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Guys I have kind of a goofy sounding question, but I cant find the aswer anywhere. I had the petcodk keak and I filled the cylinder with gas. Got that sorted out, and got her running again, but she really wants to stall, wont hold an idle well without some choke and just in general is ragged off the bottom. From reading it seemed to be the consensus that the floats were stuck in the bowl, which would have been a factor in all of the above nonsense. I took the carb off, and the bowl, but the floats seem to bee moving without any stick, is there something else I should be looking for? I havent taken a carb apart since my 02 CR250, and I am a little worried about messing up my reliable as a brick DRZ. . Thanks in advance for the advice.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:52 PM   #20061
signit98
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...it is likely that your pilot jet is clogged or obstructed. clean it out and try again... symptoms fit perfectly.

chalk it off under "shit happens"
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:58 PM   #20062
caljw
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Shift lever removal

Been fighting with my shift lever...damn if it won't come off the spline. Any tricks?
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:10 PM   #20063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caljw View Post
Been fighting with my shift lever...damn if it won't come off the spline. Any tricks?
Did you take the bolt all the way out, not just loose? try spreading it where it clamps on the splines by putting a prybar or screwdriver in the split of the lever.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:23 PM   #20064
DR650SEDDY
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Location: Phoenix,Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodly1069 View Post
Hey fellas I am wondering if you might be able to enlighten me about the new noises coming from the old 400E. Seems that maybe the chain is stretching or the guides are wearing cause I can readjust the manual cam chain tensioner and the noise will go away for a while but then it comes back after a 100 miles or so. At least until today anyway, now maybe every 50 miles. I am adjusting it correctly and the slapping noise will go away but then it comes back.

I guess I am wondering if this is a normal wearing of these items? If so, should I expect to replace the chain and guides only? Will the sprockets have wear too?

Thanks for any advice!
I had the same issue in March so I decided first to replace my old acct to the new acct one (past 2003) before I go ahead and replace the timing chain. I got one from ebay in great condition (06). The noise from the chain is gone, until now no issue so far.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:29 PM   #20065
caljw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STFU View Post
Did you take the bolt all the way out, not just loose? try spreading it where it clamps on the splines by putting a prybar or screwdriver in the split of the lever.

Yup thats what it took spreading and working from behind with driver. Thanks. Hope the new one goes on easier.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:38 PM   #20066
BEEF706
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Location: Rio Rancho NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signit98 View Post
...it is likely that your pilot jet is clogged or obstructed. clean it out and try again... symptoms fit perfectly.

chalk it off under "shit happens"
Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:50 PM   #20067
ohgood
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Location: alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodly1069 View Post
Hey fellas I am wondering if you might be able to enlighten me about the new noises coming from the old 400E. Seems that maybe the chain is stretching or the guides are wearing cause I can readjust the manual cam chain tensioner and the noise will go away for a while but then it comes back after a 100 miles or so. At least until today anyway, now maybe every 50 miles. I am adjusting it correctly and the slapping noise will go away but then it comes back.

I guess I am wondering if this is a normal wearing of these items? If so, should I expect to replace the chain and guides only? Will the sprockets have wear too?

Thanks for any advice!
how much is left to adjust on the screw ?

the last 1/4" on mine went really fast, like you're describing.
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:21 PM   #20068
George 99
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Location: Kingman, Arizona
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Evening folks. Got all my stuff minus the new rear sprocket and chain. Checked the fit of the tank today, wondering how I'm gonna refit the radiator guards but I'll get it done.

First real job is to get the turn signals all wired up. Hitachi connectors and color coated wire.

The tires will wait another thousand miles.

Wondering how I'm gonna "stuff" all that HID wire. Probably need to shorten them.

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Old 08-25-2013, 04:24 AM   #20069
tdrrally
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Location: doing hard time in charleston,wv
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spencer's ld magic ?
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:26 AM   #20070
woodly1069
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what do you mean by acct? auto cam chain tensioner?

I am using the manual version and have been adjusting it myself...




Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
I had the same issue in March so I decided first to replace my old acct to the new acct one (past 2003) before I go ahead and replace the timing chain. I got one from ebay in great condition (06). The noise from the chain is gone, until now no issue so far.
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