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Old 08-27-2013, 07:07 AM   #20101
DJFireUSA
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Location: 30 min from Deals Gap, TN
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okay - so bike's under warranty so it goes to the dealer when needed to cover my a&& for now.

Last time I was there the tech adjusted my clutch cable and it hasn't been right since.

Without the bike running, lever pulled in she doesn't want to shift into 1st from 2nd and from 2nd to first. Hard to get it into neutral as well. This is with a "correctly" adjusted clutch but I did not have ANY issues prior to the adjustment and I loved the way it used to feel.

Thoughts and ideas?

I also have a stock exhaust, the yosh dual exhaust and the yosh rs4 exhaust for my SM. Want to get the mrd pipe so if someone wants to do some trading or buy them, lemmie know.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:14 AM   #20102
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJFireUSA View Post
the tech adjusted my clutch cable and it hasn't been right since.

Without the bike running, lever pulled in she doesn't want to shift into 1st from 2nd and from 2nd to first. Hard to get it into neutral as well. This is with a "correctly" adjusted clutch but I did not have ANY issues prior to the adjustment and I loved the way it used to feel.

Thoughts and ideas?

.
So re-adjust it yourself. it's not rocket science...
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:40 AM   #20103
Falcon86
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$180 shipped for anyone in this thread. PM if interested.

Blue Clarke 3.9 Tank w/ black plastic as well as billet cap included
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:45 AM   #20104
DJFireUSA
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Location: 30 min from Deals Gap, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasvis View Post
So re-adjust it yourself. it's not rocket science...
the other bikes are hydraulic - out of practice by more than a decade on adjusting cable clutch. Don't remember exactly what to look for while adjusting.

There isn't any "slop" in the cable. What I do not know is how much more I can tighten the cable before it's too tight and acts as though I am pulling in the clutch.

That being said, I do not know if the tech tightened or loosened the cable during his adjustment so I do not know if I need to loosen or tighten it to get the original feel back.

Not wanting to shift into different gear could be one of two things... I have adjustable levers and the lever is adjusted too close to the grip so it's not getting a full pull or the cable needed adjustment, possibly out of spec?

bad pic but here's an older pic of the lever area if it matters....
 photo IMG_20111027_015036.jpg
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:17 AM   #20105
rustycager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJFireUSA View Post
okay - so bike's under warranty so it goes to the dealer when needed to cover my a&& for now.

Last time I was there the tech adjusted my clutch cable and it hasn't been right since.

Without the bike running, lever pulled in she doesn't want to shift into 1st from 2nd and from 2nd to first. Hard to get it into neutral as well. This is with a "correctly" adjusted clutch but I did not have ANY issues prior to the adjustment and I loved the way it used to feel.

Thoughts and ideas?

I also have a stock exhaust, the yosh dual exhaust and the yosh rs4 exhaust for my SM. Want to get the mrd pipe so if someone wants to do some trading or buy them, lemmie know.

Try rocking if it is still tough then something isn't right or bent shift parts. Hard to get stopped gears to mesh.

Isn't the rs4 the dual exhaust? Did you mean rs3?
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:33 AM   #20106
George 99
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Location: Kingman, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohgood View Post
my guides were very good, barely noticable wear.

just replaced the chain, cut off the auto decomp mechanism, and crossed my fingers for the first press of the button.

it starts instantly with a new chain. I haven't had to adjust the manual tensioner yet either.

the cam timing was off by almost a tooths worth (of rotation) from stretch on the old chain, now its perfect.
I've mentioned this elsewhere: a stretched (worn) cam chain retards your timing which reduces effective performance. A new cam chain every (pick yur mileage) is probably a good idea regardless of the tensioner. Think about it, a 2% stretch would be about 1% retard (1/2 the chain actually pulls the cams, the other 1/2 is just trying to get back into position. )
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:39 AM   #20107
DJFireUSA
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Location: 30 min from Deals Gap, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustycager View Post
Try rocking if it is still tough then something isn't right or bent shift parts. Hard to get stopped gears to mesh.

Isn't the rs4 the dual exhaust? Did you mean rs3?
AH CRAPO- yeah... rs3 duh

here's a vid of what I have...
http://youtu.be/czC9m4LbBBc
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:54 AM   #20108
WayneJ
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Location: Tryin' To Get Outta MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJFireUSA View Post
Without the bike running, lever pulled in she doesn't want to shift into 1st from 2nd and from 2nd to first. Hard to get it into neutral as well.


Modern motorcycle transmissions are constant mesh transmissions, they are designed to be shifted when the gears are turning.

Try doing it with the bike running.

Get an owners manual, it will tell you how to adjust the clutch.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:20 AM   #20109
slower_than_you
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Looks like a good set up - anyone used this set ? Im looking very closely at the Baja Designs kit , but , if this one works just as well, I think I might have a winner.
In speaking with my insurance agent and the inspector , I should be good to go wiht a few changes - insert evil laugh of your choice -


Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Some state are flexible than others when it come to converting ur bike, in the worse case scenario u might have to do it right.





Street Legal Kit Suzuki RMX450 450 DRZ400 DRZ 400 RMX



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Old 08-27-2013, 10:23 AM   #20110
DJFireUSA
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book smart and street smart are two very different things... there are tweaks to the bike that the book just isn't going to cover. I already stated the clutch is adjusted PER SUZUKI. So adjusting it per the OM isn't going to change anything.

I appreciate the "education" on transmission working but that's not what I was asking about. The other bikes shift just fine, even while stopped and motor off.

There are times when riding the shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to first just does not happen which, I believe, is related to clutch cable adjustment mixed with after-market lever adjustment. Remember I am running ASV levers and I suspect the adjustment on them is such that the lever can not travel enough, thus the cable is not being pulled enough.

Look, all I am trying to figure out is how much tighter I can adjust the cable AFTER all the slop is out of it or if this is just a bad idea and I need to hone in on grip to lever gap and adjustment of the levers.

While it is possible the lever is not traveling far enough due to it's adjustment, even before they were added, the tech adjusting the cable back to suzuki specs threw it out of whack.
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2007 GL1800 Goldwing, 2009 Harley Police Road King, 2007 DRZ400sm, 1985 Honda CB650sc (Special Edition), 2006 S-50 (aka VS800 intruder - for sale)
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:25 AM   #20111
George 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slower_than_you View Post
Looks like a good set up - anyone used this set ? Im looking very closely at the Baja Designs kit , but , if this one works just as well, I think I might have a winner.
In speaking with my insurance agent and the inspector , I should be good to go wiht a few changes - insert evil laugh of your choice -
I've piece parted mine using parts from various vendors. The only Baja Designs product is the head light/turn signal switch on the handle bar. Too expensive, found another that looks identical but no high beam indicator for $20 less. Too late for me but maybe you can use it. There's another Tusk model on E-Bay for $9.

I added a dual beam headlight, cheap LED turn signals with a solid state relay, and a #60 ADV LED light. My bike had already been plated in AZ by the PO, mirror, horn and brake light switch were already on the bike. It's easy to plate a dirt bike in Arizona, almost impossible in California. Everyone else lands somewhere in between.

If I had seen that kit on E-Bay I probably would have bought it. With the wiring harness already built, it's worth it. I've probably spent about that much and have to make my own harness.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:17 AM   #20112
tdrrally
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the tusk kit is money well spent !
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #20113
FamilyRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slower_than_you View Post
Looks like a good set up - anyone used this set ? Im looking very closely at the Baja Designs kit , but , if this one works just as well, I think I might have a winner.
In speaking with my insurance agent and the inspector , I should be good to go wiht a few changes - insert evil laugh of your choice -

I didn't use this kit on my DRZ, but I did use it on my CRF. It is a pretty decent kit. The only thing I didn't like was the on/off switch. I modified mine to use a key switch that acts as a kill when off and when on, it enables the lighting and the starter motor. I had to cut some wires in the kit harness and the bikes harness, but it works.
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:37 PM   #20114
George 99
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Agree the Tusk kit looks good, tho I'm using 16 ga wire instead of the 18 ga that kits probably contains. Jus' sayin' as I've not seen it in person. Also, I don't like the included rear fender. Don't need it anyway so I'm happy the way I'm doing it.

Working on wiring yesterday, made a quick bracket to hang the rear mini-turn signals. Ran into this when tightening the nut on this one.
(shoot, can't the photo to load. :( )

Anyway, 6mm threaded rod with thru hole for the wires,,, rod broke off when I tried to tighten the nut.

Vendor is already on it to get me a replacement but I also ordered a "do all" tail light, all LEDS with stop, brake, and turn signal built in. Only $20 and no turn signals hanging in the wind.
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George 99 screwed with this post 08-27-2013 at 03:52 PM
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:51 PM   #20115
internalcombust
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Middle TN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJFireUSA View Post
book smart and street smart are two very different things... there are tweaks to the bike that the book just isn't going to cover. I already stated the clutch is adjusted PER SUZUKI. So adjusting it per the OM isn't going to change anything.

I appreciate the "education" on transmission working but that's not what I was asking about. The other bikes shift just fine, even while stopped and motor off.

There are times when riding the shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to first just does not happen which, I believe, is related to clutch cable adjustment mixed with after-market lever adjustment. Remember I am running ASV levers and I suspect the adjustment on them is such that the lever can not travel enough, thus the cable is not being pulled enough.

Look, all I am trying to figure out is how much tighter I can adjust the cable AFTER all the slop is out of it or if this is just a bad idea and I need to hone in on grip to lever gap and adjustment of the levers.

While it is possible the lever is not traveling far enough due to it's adjustment, even before they were added, the tech adjusting the cable back to suzuki specs threw it out of whack.
Couple of things:
1.Don't such an ass when people give you info to help you out, especially when you have 67 posts and are asking such an elementary question such as how to adjust clutch levers. Book smart and street smart? what the hell does that even mean in this context? The manual explains clutch adjustment, end of story. It doesn't matter what levers you have the mechanism is very basic and it's still the same.
2. Just because you paid some tech to change and adjust your levers, or whatever you had him do, doesn't mean it was done to SUZUKI SPEC. as you call it Jesus man, he gets paid flat rate to turn wrenches, he can make a mistake.
3. There has to be some free play in the clutch lever. If you tighten the cable all the way in you risk the chance of burning out your clutch plates. There should be at least an 1/8th inch gap of loose cable before it starts to take up pressure.
4. If you have shorty levers I would check to make sure you are getting full pull to the bar with lever. Make sure it isn't bottoming out on the control housing or something else.
5. Also check the shift lever, make sure it isn't hitting the engine cover and fouling up your shifts. It would also be a good idea to check and make sure the shift lever is tight as well.
You tube has a few clutch lever adjustment videos that you might find useful as well.

Good luck.
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