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Old 09-12-2013, 07:33 AM   #20266
bobbed06
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Location: That one place......
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vzuke View Post
I need the help of all the DRZ Guru's!

Background: 2008 DRZ400SM, 20,000 miles. I would say it has had a pampered life other than hauling my 240lb butt around. No wheelies, no clutchless shifts. No rev limiter bumps. Yes, I still managed to have fun on it!

Anyway I was riding home from work, approximately 50 MPH when the bike did a sudden serge. It was accompanied by the sound of metallic crunch. The transmission didn't lock up and it continued on. But it had a new sound to the engine. Something rubbing. I down shifted it to 4 and that was when the neutral light came on. I was close to home so I just putted along on the edge of the road.

As I was pulling up to my driveway I instinctively click down a gear and let out the clutch. That's when the rear wheel locked up and I stopped.

I no longer have a neutral. You can still shift through the gears. And the clutch still appears to be working since I have to use it to push the bike around.

I'm still in denial. A UJM with transmission problems? Impossible! It's not even broken in yet!

Do you have to split the cases to work on the transmission?

Dana.
Here is a picture to invoke sympathy.

HELP ME GET BACK ON THE ROAD, Please.
Drain the oil in a clean pan and check for debris......

After that, pull the right side engine case and see if the balancer bolt or primary drive gear has come loose. If the trans still shifts thru all 5 gears than chances are the trans may still be ok. You will need a service manual or have decent wrenching skills to accomplish this.

Do your research and you may wish to sign up on Thumpertalk, the DRZ 400 guys there have been thru it all 10 times over and probably know whats wrong and how to fix it while sleeping.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:07 PM   #20267
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Found the jet problem PO put in a round dynojet 140 main jet. Wow. Bought a 165 off of Jesse from keintech suggestion and hopefully it will be up and running this weekend or possibly tonight. Should solve both my problems

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Old 09-12-2013, 03:16 PM   #20268
Live2Ride
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Location: Spoklahoma, Wa.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vzuke View Post
I need the help of all the DRZ Guru's!

Background: 2008 DRZ400SM, 20,000 miles. I would say it has had a pampered life other than hauling my 240lb butt around. No wheelies, no clutchless shifts. No rev limiter bumps. Yes, I still managed to have fun on it!

Anyway I was riding home from work, approximately 50 MPH when the bike did a sudden serge. It was accompanied by the sound of metallic crunch. The transmission didn't lock up and it continued on. But it had a new sound to the engine. Something rubbing. I down shifted it to 4 and that was when the neutral light came on. I was close to home so I just putted along on the edge of the road.

As I was pulling up to my driveway I instinctively click down a gear and let out the clutch. That's when the rear wheel locked up and I stopped.

I no longer have a neutral. You can still shift through the gears. And the clutch still appears to be working since I have to use it to push the bike around.

I'm still in denial. A UJM with transmission problems? Impossible! It's not even broken in yet!

Do you have to split the cases to work on the transmission?

Dana.
Here is a picture to invoke sympathy.

HELP ME GET BACK ON THE ROAD, Please.
Could possibly be a shifting fork broke.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:06 PM   #20269
JJJZJ
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Does anyone know where I can purchase a new o-ring for the needle and seat on a 2001 DRZ400s? I think the ethanol keeps destroying them and I cant find them individually without buying the whole 50 dollar assembly. It seems like I need one with a flat edge. The ones from NAPA fit as far as the inner diameter, but not the outer diameter.

Also, the bike ran fine last time I started it this spring. Now I have a fully charged battery and it shows no signs of electrical activity. No dash/computer lights, no headlight, no starter click, nothing... Anyone have a clue where to start looking? Im good at everything, but diagnosing electrical problems.

I found a fuse on one of the positive battery terminal wires that was blown, but that didnt change the issue when I put in a new fuse. There was another fuse by the battery, but it was not blown.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:42 PM   #20270
rustycager
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Does anyone know for sure it the oem replacement parts for klx400sr(400-A1) are the exact same as drz parts? I notice they are usually cheaper and I am wanting to order a few things like oem cs sprocket, parts behind the cs (think expanded no balls kit), several crush washers/o-rings/filters, steering lock(possibly) ,a couple ignition keys when I figure out the one I need and more than likely some other stuff.

I've been looking at ayers since they seem to have great feedback and cheaper prices but is anyone else as good ,cheaper or give discounts here?
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:53 PM   #20271
rube
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Mikuni needle and seat O-ring

[QUOTE=JJJZJ;22317434]Does anyone know where I can purchase a new o-ring for the needle and seat on a 2001 DRZ400s? I think the ethanol keeps destroying them and I cant find them individually without buying the whole 50 dollar assembly. It seems like I need one with a flat edge. The ones from NAPA fit as far as the inner diameter, but not the outer diameter.

Sudco or jetsrus

I recently bought some from Sudco but can't take a look at my receipt right now to confirm the part number.

Sudco and Jetsrus do not list the Mikuni BSR36 carb but from my research (pg 232 of current Sudco catalog as size reference) there are not too many different sizes of needle and seat O-rings. Mikuni (mikuni part number KV/10) and Keihin (M1 or Keihin 16958-397-7710) are slightly different sizes (KV/10 is 7.5 ID x 1.53 mm, M1 is 9.10 ID x 1.30 mm), but each brand seems to use the same size in almost every one of their carbs.

Without being able to check my receipt I cannot be 100% sure, but I think that the part below is what you are looking for to fit the stock Mikuni carb.

http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/002_709_su.html

If you had fitted a Keihin FCR carb you would want

http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_047_su.html

rube

rube screwed with this post 09-12-2013 at 05:55 PM Reason: fat fingers
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:51 AM   #20272
MotoChris521
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Location: SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustycager View Post
Does anyone know for sure it the oem replacement parts for klx400sr(400-A1) are the exact same as drz parts? I notice they are usually cheaper and I am wanting to order a few things like oem cs sprocket, parts behind the cs (think expanded no balls kit), several crush washers/o-rings/filters, steering lock(possibly) ,a couple ignition keys when I figure out the one I need and more than likely some other stuff.

I've been looking at ayers since they seem to have great feedback and cheaper prices but is anyone else as good ,cheaper or give discounts here?
Yes. 2003 KLX400 is a green DR-Z. The SR is the S version )R the E model.

Bike bandit did me well, when I needed a bunch of stuff for my KLR. Had most stuff in stock and shipped fast.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:03 AM   #20273
redleger
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OK, so yesterday I went to buy the 165 hex jet made for keihin FCR Carbs. I went to pull the old one out to make sure I picked up the correct one, and it had a 140 Dynojet jet in it. I thought this was odd but paid no mind. Went to the store, got the hex jet 165, came home, went to put it in and it does not screw in.

My question in the Dynojet kit for the FCR, does it come with a new long thingy the jet screws into? If so could I just buy the equivalent 165 jet for dynojet and put that in? Would I see a performance issue with dynojet vs FCR jets? Wow, I thought for sure I would have this thing up and running by now. I guess it is true what they say: all used bikes have secrets, some big some small.
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:08 PM   #20274
redleger
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Oh and the elbow adapter for the air hose that attaches to the funnel is missing. I hope it didn't suck in a bunch of crap into the engine. Gonna fabricate some thing tonight. Will post pictures. Little rubber cement and tubing and a hose clamp should fix it right up.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:22 PM   #20275
JJJZJ
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[QUOTE=rube;22317740]
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJJZJ View Post
Does anyone know where I can purchase a new o-ring for the needle and seat on a 2001 DRZ400s? I think the ethanol keeps destroying them and I cant find them individually without buying the whole 50 dollar assembly. It seems like I need one with a flat edge. The ones from NAPA fit as far as the inner diameter, but not the outer diameter.

Sudco or jetsrus

I recently bought some from Sudco but can't take a look at my receipt right now to confirm the part number.

Sudco and Jetsrus do not list the Mikuni BSR36 carb but from my research (pg 232 of current Sudco catalog as size reference) there are not too many different sizes of needle and seat O-rings. Mikuni (mikuni part number KV/10) and Keihin (M1 or Keihin 16958-397-7710) are slightly different sizes (KV/10 is 7.5 ID x 1.53 mm, M1 is 9.10 ID x 1.30 mm), but each brand seems to use the same size in almost every one of their carbs.

Without being able to check my receipt I cannot be 100% sure, but I think that the part below is what you are looking for to fit the stock Mikuni carb.

http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/002_709_su.html

If you had fitted a Keihin FCR carb you would want

http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_047_su.html

rube


Thanks for the help man. With the dimensions you gave, I found them locally at a place in SLC called Hydra-Pak. .18 cents (well free since I only needed one) is a hell of a lot better than the whole assembly for 52 dollars
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:32 PM   #20276
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Oh and the elbow adapter for the air hose that attaches to the funnel is missing. I hope it didn't suck in a bunch of crap into the engine. Gonna fabricate some thing tonight. Will post pictures. Little rubber cement and tubing and a hose clamp should fix it right up.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
Ok, so further inspection while I was putting the Carb back in shows this:



and here is the tube I think is supposed to attach atleast according the the OEM diagram. Looks like a post air filter hose.



sorry for bad pic, flash at night.

So my question is since it looks like that whole was blocked off is it ok to leave this hose off? Bike ran ok the 5 minutes I had it on and took it down the street to test the jetting. Might be a bit rich, but I can work with that. The hose does not look like it should fit near that whole but the OEM diagram is horrible.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/2#
Part number 15 attaching to 6A is what I think is missing. any input on this.

I know I am blowing up the forum, but just tryign to make sure I don't grenade this thing.
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Old 09-14-2013, 02:53 AM   #20277
rustycager
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Redleger, I'm no help with your problem but thanks for posting a pic of your rear tire. I'm on the fence about trying a 705 and seeing a close up pic gives me a better idea than stock photos and from a distance. Is that a 120?


Thanks to everyone who gave me input also. If you have a 700 on the back feel free to post a pic and review.

If you are looking at a t63 the 130 rear does fit nicely.
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:26 AM   #20278
Muddler
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Location: Dardanup, Western Australia
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Water crossing

My DRZ stalls as soon as I get any deeper then my swing arm in water. I presume its interference with the million hoses from the carby that dangle out under the front of the swing arm. Is the correct fix to put in T-pieces and route one hose up under the seat? Do I need to do this to all of them?
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:13 AM   #20279
coarsegoldkid
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Location: Coarsegold, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddler View Post
My DRZ stalls as soon as I get any deeper then my swing arm in water. I presume its interference with the million hoses from the carby that dangle out under the front of the swing arm. Is the correct fix to put in T-pieces and route one hose up under the seat? Do I need to do this to all of them?
My DRZ didn't have the sidestand switch on it when I bought it. If yours does it may be that the water enters the switch and causes havoc. However I would think water would short the switch instead of open it. Another thought may be the fuel tank breather hose might be routed down low enough to enter water and no longer allow the tank atmospheric pressure.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:29 AM   #20280
Muddler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Yes, all of them "T"ed together, one or more hose up above the engine plus one hose down to the original position as a drain.
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