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Old 10-12-2013, 11:21 AM   #20611
markjenn
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Swellvue, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deltron View Post
Hey guys I got some questions that I am wondering if you could answer.

-If m drz400 has a blown head gasket what are some ways to check it, and would there be a significant loss in power?

-Could a bad thermostat make it so my fan doesn't turn on at all? or is it the fan? (will be testing the fan itself soon from clymer manual)

- Also since the coolant overflow tank does not empty out after the bike cools down could that also be caused by a bad thermostat?

Any input would be nice.
Not an expert on DRZ cooling systems but....

1. Usually when a head gasket goes, it gives early symptoms before power loss - mixing of coolant with oil, lots of smoke on startup, steam out exhaust, mess at head gasket junction. But if you press on through these early symptoms or if the failure is sudden/dramatic, yes, it could be down on power. I'd think it would also be making some pretty bad noises too.

2. The S is the only model that comes stock with a radiator fan. It's triggered by a temp sensor, not the thermostat.

3. Plastic coolant tank is just a overflow catch tank if the radiator cap releases pressure/coolant and doesn't have any ability to recover the coolant back to the radiator. Stock, it comes dry and is supposed to stay that way unless you've had an overheating episode.

Hope this helps.

- Mark
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:54 AM   #20612
oldenuf
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coolant reservoir

The owners manual does say that coolant does return to the radiator with engine cooling. I would think if the return has an air leak this will prevent the return.

Art
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:21 PM   #20613
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deltron View Post
Hey guys I got some questions that I am wondering if you could answer.

-If m drz400 has a blown head gasket what are some ways to check it, and would there be a significant loss in power?

-Could a bad thermostat make it so my fan doesn't turn on at all? or is it the fan? (will be testing the fan itself soon from clymer manual)



Any input would be nice.
Yes u can definitely loose power from blown gasket .
Before u inspect ur thermostat,u must test your Fan Sending Unit (Clymer ma. chapter ten, page207), located on top left radiator by removing it and verify it continuity using an ohmmeter, usually the unit will switch on when temp. each close to 96 deg. C or 205 deg F. It's better to conduct this test while the unit is with contact in hot water, submerge the sensor part only not the whole unit, taking it to boiling level, (see page 201, chapter 9 in Clymer Manual).
The motor of the fan can also be checked for continuity using an ohmmeter as well.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:27 PM   #20614
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
As mentioned, it is supposed to be a recovery system and there should be a small amount of coolant in the bottle. A dodgy thermostat can cause excessive venting, but will not cause a recovery failure.
You guys are right; the coolant tank does recover coolant. But I don't think the bike ships with any coolant in the tank and there is no max/min line on it like most car systems, so I don't think there is any requirement that there be any coolant in there. I have heard some guys put some in just to be able to monitor the level and I don't think it hurts anything. Mine's been dry since the bike was new.

- Mark
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:06 PM   #20615
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ineptizoid View Post
But I don't think you'll make the coil burn if ya don't use the "courant," I think you'll make the regulator/rectifier burn, 'cause that's where the extra/unused "alternative courant" goes, where it turns into heat.

Then again, I could be wrong about everything.
You're right the excess of current will be dissipated by Reg/rectifier.
Quote:
There is no mention of what you said in the factory manual... or reference to "courant"...
Clymer Manual chapter9, Electrical system page183, just saying.
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Old 10-12-2013, 06:25 PM   #20616
Blakebird
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
The other reason for a small amount in the bottle is to ensure that the radiator is not sucking air. Talking an inch +/-. All of ours were delivered with a similar amount. With less the bottle might as well just be a non-recovery catch tank.

it siphons back into the radiator as the system cools down....but it's not going to draw all the liquid back in and empty the tank - the overflow line will have coolant in it, and when the siphon is lost, the coolant in the line will drain back into the catch tank - allowing the siphon to work again.
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Old 10-12-2013, 06:33 PM   #20617
DR650SEDDY
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If someone interested I am selling my standard cylinder/piston kid include hot cams. Pm me if interested and make an offer.
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:51 PM   #20618
tt100
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Could someone please tell me if DRZ rims will work on a DR650? I've got a SM kit for sale over on the sale thread and a DR guy just asked. Thanks, and I'm also researching it myself, I just thought maybe I could get a quick response over here...


Edit - a quick check around the web is indicating no..... Opinions or experience out there say otherwise?

Pete

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Old 10-12-2013, 09:11 PM   #20619
Brods1675
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brods1675 View Post
Hi all,

Amongst my fleet is a KLX400R. Bike experiences intermittent cut-outs.

It's been to my mechanic a number of times. It always behaved for him, but recently he took it for a lap of the MX track and it cut out, with him almost going over the bars.

it will conk out, particularly after the front has lifted off a bit of a jump or a bump on a track, or when going up a steep slope. When it happens it's like it's run out of fuel.

Then it'll turn over but won't fire. However if you leave it a while it'll often start again.

So far the bike has had an engine rebuild, within the last couple of months. On its last trip to the mechanic the carby was overhauled with new jets.

Given that even my mechanic is struggling to isolate the cause I thought I'd throw it out there and see if anyone can help.
Update:

Kick stand kill switch has been removed from bike.

Most recent ride it ran fine day 1. Then day 2 the usual problems started.

An added extra was that a few times the revs went to wide open, without my twisting the throttle.

As well as cutting out on bumps it out out a couple of times on dead-flat super-smooth beach.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:51 PM   #20620
DougA
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Bluhduh Engine rebuild

So, long story short.

I was riding my newly acquired 2004 DRZ-400e when the engine unexpectedly quit on me. When I went to restart it, the engine would not crank. I had recently replaced the counter shaft seal, looked down and realized it was still leaking. I pulled out the oil fill plug, uhoh, there's a little bit of smoke. Let the bike sit for a few minutes and rode a mile to the gas station. Filled it up with oil and rode the bike ~10 miles home. I thought all was fine.


Get home fiddle with the seal and get it sealed up. Faster forward a week and I'm riding and the bike dies again. Check the oil, yup it's got oil. It would crank but not start. Got the bike home, checked the carburetor, spark plug everything looked good. pulled the valve cover off and notice the top half of the intake valve bearing is loose. I take the bearing cap off and the exhaust cam and bearing is scored badly. I pulled the intake cam bearing cap off and the bearing surface and cam look fine on the intake. I also pulled the head off and examined the cylinder. The cylinder looks fine and the engine turns over by hand smoothly.

SO, I know I need a new head. I already purchased a used one I plan to rebuild. Should I pull the cylinder off and inspect the bottom end as well? Also does any one have recommendations on valves, springs, etc I should rebuild the head with?

I was also thinking of upgrading to hot cams stage 1 while I was in the process of rebuilding the new head, are they worth my time?

Thanks!

Doug
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:55 AM   #20621
mattadv93
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So im just trying to setup the rear suspension and noticed a car type valve on the bottom of the piggy back. What exactly does it do? I have a High Pressure shock pump so i would be able to adjust if needed.
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:26 AM   #20622
GrayEagleRider
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DRZ400 Fairing

Anyone have any pics/information of one of these mounted?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget678 View Post
I know a few DRZ owners would like fairings....

I just found this on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUZUKI-DR...item3a84fe81d4

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Old 10-13-2013, 05:33 AM   #20623
beerbuzz
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That looks a whole lot like the one under development earlier in this thread.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:16 AM   #20624
Tallbastid
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Any idea why my drz bogs when I stand sometimes? Bogs on the throttle, then I sit down and all is fine. This is on maintained gravel btw.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:09 AM   #20625
DualSportDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Nitrogen recharge valve. Your shock pump is fine if it ever needs a recharge as long as the air is dry... same deal as your MTB.
Anyone know how much nitrogen pressure should be in the shock? Also if anyone has a link to a good write up about how to change the oil in the rear shock I'd appreciate it.

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