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Old 12-26-2013, 07:21 AM   #21481
texag10
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Joined: Dec 2013
Location: DFW, TX
Oddometer: 254
I'm going to post to thumpertalk this evening. I'm in The mid-cities area of DFW near the airport.

New plan of attack:

Remove carb
Get screws out with an extractor for stripped heads.
Blast with carb cleaner, hit with compressed air, and poke jets to make sure they're clear.
Replace screws with allen head bolts.
Re-install carb while cursing heartily.
Hopefully have a running bike.
Ride the tires off the thing so it never sits long enough to have this happen again.

I sincerely appreciate all the help and advice.
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Old 12-26-2013, 08:07 AM   #21482
Psycho18th
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Oddometer: 421
Quote:
Originally Posted by texag10 View Post
I'm going to post to thumpertalk this evening. I'm in The mid-cities area of DFW near the airport.

New plan of attack:

Remove carb
Get screws out with an extractor for stripped heads.
Blast with carb cleaner, hit with compressed air, and poke jets to make sure they're clear.
Replace screws with allen head bolts.
Re-install carb while cursing heartily.
Hopefully have a running bike.
Ride the tires off the thing so it never sits long enough to have this happen again.

I sincerely appreciate all the help and advice.
That seems like a great plan! Too bad the float bowl screws are giving issues. It's always something seemingly minor that's the frustrating part of a repair. Hang with it, and the payoff will be worth it, plus you'll learn (painfully) a bunch about your new scoot.

I've had luck with dremel or hacksaw all the way across a bolt head and use a wide flathead screwdriver to remove stuck/stripping bolts. It puts a bit more torque on there, since the pressure is at the edge of the bolt, vs the center. That hand impact tool has been used a ton in my garage over the years...a must have tool I'd say.

Good luck!

Psycho
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Old 12-26-2013, 10:03 AM   #21483
hizzo3
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Joined: May 2012
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+1 on the dremel method. The previous owner loctite the brake res cover screws. Just cover everything you Dont want metal shavings in with a paper towel.

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Old 12-26-2013, 11:16 AM   #21484
redleger
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by texag10 View Post
I'm going to post to thumpertalk this evening. I'm in The mid-cities area of DFW near the airport.

New plan of attack:

Remove carb
Get screws out with an extractor for stripped heads.
Blast with carb cleaner, hit with compressed air, and poke jets to make sure they're clear.
Replace screws with allen head bolts.
Re-install carb while cursing heartily.
Hopefully have a running bike.
Ride the tires off the thing so it never sits long enough to have this happen again.

I sincerely appreciate all the help and advice.
I had stripped bowl screws once. Got the out but using needle nose vice grips clamped down and bit by bit unscrewed them. Easier than an extractor.

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Old 12-26-2013, 01:54 PM   #21485
TossingLead
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Location: DFW, Texas
Oddometer: 58
texag10: hizzo3 and I are in the DFW area, I know can give you a hand if you need it. Will be back in town the 2nd and don't have to be back to work till Monday the 6th. PM me if you would like to meetup.
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:58 PM   #21486
bobbed06
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: That one place......
Oddometer: 1,236
Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraCB View Post
Currently have a 2000 Kicker that has been a problem since I picked it up. Seriously frustrating carb problems with the Non-MX FCR...

Moral of the story is should I keep it and put an MX-FCR in it? 600 bucks sucks when I've already put 300 into a POS carb that still won't work and that I F'd up on and stripped a float bowl screw holes threads.

Got the bike for 800 bucks... Still worth it?
Hmmmm........I thought another fella here tried to steer you to this conclusion a while back.....
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:06 PM   #21487
SierraCB
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Joined: Sep 2013
Location: Reno/Tahoe, Nevada
Oddometer: 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post
So what's wrong with the carb now? Just the stripped float bowl screws? Both my fcr's did that. I just drilled the holes a little larger and put machine screws through the holes with nuts on the other side. Makes field repairs a little tough but works fine when you have the carb off.

If you think that you might need another carb I have one here that has no float bowl on it, I used it for my other carb that I sold on my on klx. I also think I have a new in the package accelerator pump diaphragm and some misc o rings.

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One of the float bowl screws hole is stripped through. Good ole soft aluminium.

This happened after I had to replace the float bowl gasket due to a leak. It was also leaking out of the float bowl overflow tube during this time...

This carb has been cleaned by me AND a shop multiple times. New jets, new everything. Always chasing an irregular idle that won't idle, or will hang on an extremely high idle. No it's not the cables or a stuck slide ETC.

What kind of carb is it? MX or Slant Body? PM me and we can maybe work something out
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:09 PM   #21488
markjenn
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Swellvue, WA
Oddometer: 10,441
Quote:
Originally Posted by texag10 View Post
I'm going to post to thumpertalk this evening. I'm in The mid-cities area of DFW near the airport.

New plan of attack:

Remove carb
Get screws out with an extractor for stripped heads.
Blast with carb cleaner, hit with compressed air, and poke jets to make sure they're clear.
Replace screws with allen head bolts.
Re-install carb while cursing heartily.
Hopefully have a running bike.
Ride the tires off the thing so it never sits long enough to have this happen again.

I sincerely appreciate all the help and advice.
Sounds like you have someone local to help you out.

The carb bowl screws are soft. You usually get one good chance to get them out if they're factory-tight, but you have to have a fresh phillips of exactly the right size that has an excellent "bite" and you have to hold the carb in way that allows you to get good downward pressure on the screwdriver as you slowly turn. Rust penetrate isn't usually very helpful, but heat and a good rap on the screwdriver often is. Once the head starts to strip, you're generally SOL.

Impact drivers are the usual way to get tight phillips screws out, but I would think it would be hard to get the carb held in a way where you could get a good rap on it with a hammer. But never tried it on a carb, just case screws in the motor.

To get them out now, I'd try and dremel out a good straight slot in the head for a regular screwdriver or a good slot to tap the screw head around with a hammer and sharp punch. If you can get a good hold with vice-grips, this might work also.

Replacing these screws with allan head is a good idea. A bunch of folks sell kits. Another nice thing to upgrade is the idle mixture fuel screw - they sell an extended one that makes adjustment much easier.

- Mark
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:43 PM   #21489
George 99
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Location: Kingman, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Yes. It has happened to a couple of our bikes, not at the join. I replace them with Excel rims. My bike has tougher A60 rims on RAD hubs because the OEM wheels were looking sad... probably not the sort of thing you're after though.
Thanks, Numbers. I replaced the rear rim on my lil' Yamaha with an Excel a few years ago. The rim on my DRZ was straight, tho, and the weld looks good. It'll do for now.
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:11 PM   #21490
texag10
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Joined: Dec 2013
Location: DFW, TX
Oddometer: 254
Got it down to one properly fucked screw. Gonna have to try sawing it into a flat head. The good news is I can remove the carb from a road ready bike in under 15 minutes. The bad news is if this screw doesn't cooperate I'll be tempted to place the carb downrange next time I go shooting.

First and last time I buy a bike that sat so much.
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:13 AM   #21491
shanekfalcon
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Oddometer: 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by texag10 View Post
Got it down to one properly fucked screw. Gonna have to try sawing it into a flat head. The good news is I can remove the carb from a road ready bike in under 15 minutes. The bad news is if this screw doesn't cooperate I'll be tempted to place the carb downrange next time I go shooting.

First and last time I buy a bike that sat so much.
Would it be possible to use a stud remover/easy out? Sometimes just drilling out the centre as part of the preparation for putting in the stud remover breaks the seal too. Once out, I have replaced the mild steel screws on my V-Star 650 and DR800 with stainless steel screws with allen key heads. Then where possible use a spring washer, flat washer and loctite purple, the weakest strength loctite and that seems to work well.
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Old 12-27-2013, 05:01 AM   #21492
texag10
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Joined: Dec 2013
Location: DFW, TX
Oddometer: 254
The screw is off...just broke the float cover doing it. Lesson learned to not wrench while enraged. Sorry to waste the time of everyone who helped me, I feel thoroughly embarrassed.

I'll be buying an fcr 39, as I planned to do so down the road and some research on thumpertalk shows it'll work with the stock exhaust for now.
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:46 AM   #21493
HellSickle
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Fort Collins
Oddometer: 9,428
Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneJ View Post
Carb jets are not soft enough to be effected by welding tip cleaners unless you are completely inept.
I diasagree. Flow in the jet is extremely sensitive to diameter and finish. A welding tip cleaner is essentially a steel file.
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Old 12-27-2013, 11:06 AM   #21494
WayneJ
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You must be one of the completely inept people I was referring to.
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:47 PM   #21495
George 99
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Location: Kingman, Arizona
Oddometer: 778
Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
No worries... I might have mentioned that the reason why they are replaced is because the alloy is unknown. It is probably 7xxx, but I couldn't guarantee that. The welding process creates an area where the aluminium is full annealed near the weld and some gradient to the original temper. 7 series are precipitation hardened and will with time harden on their own just sitting in the shed however the original properties will never be restored in that area unless the rim is put through put back through the heat treatment process... and I reckon that ain't happening.
Another question might be why an apparently straight rim cracked... fatigue?
The repair would be sub-optimal, but if it hangs together then great. If it cracks again (anywhere) then I would suggest replacing it.
I am far from being a maniac so unless I'm caught unawares (it happens) I shouldn't pound this too hard. I'll stick fairly close to home for a while and see how it stands up.

I'm guessing the original weld was porous or otherwise less than optimal. Also, since it was cracked right on the weld, the properties are probably different than the rim itself.

I'll keep y'all poSTed.

I'll probably go ahead and order a new rim just to have on hand for the inevitable. Cheap insurance.
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