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Old 05-05-2009, 09:37 PM   #2941
DRDANTDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willyphlipit
when I put the 3.9 gallon Clarke tank on my bike I found the best way was to turn the fuel inlet on the carb. I removed the carb and used a large cresent wrench to loosen the fitting. Then I took a good set of pliers and pull it out. I then put a dab of red locktite on it put it back in facing down. Roughly about 80 degrees down from stock position. This provided a better angle for the fuel line. I also recomend changing from the stock vacuum operated pet cock with the "E" modle petcock (Suzuki part number 44300-29f10). Doing this also allowed me to use my stock fuel line. The vacuum petcock went screwy on mine and the bike would just randomly die.
Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:40 PM   #2942
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRDANTDC
Thanks for your help.
Hope it works out for you. Let me know how it turns out. I love mine. Ride safe.
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:32 PM   #2943
markjenn
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Other Clarke potential issues:

1) The enrichment plunger on the carb may foul the tank when pulled out. A few minutes with a dremel on the plunger button usually solves that.

2) The screws holding the center mount saddles on the tank are not loctited and love to back out and go AWOL.

3) If you mount the retaining wire (most just leave it off), spend the time to make sure you custom bend the ends of the wire so the eyelets lay nice and flat against the tank inserts with no tendency for the wire to bend the inserts sideways as you tighten the screws. Otherwise you may get a leak at the inserts.

- Mark
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:14 PM   #2944
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[quote=markjenn]Other Clarke potential issues:

1) The enrichment plunger on the carb may foul the tank when pulled out. A few minutes with a dremel on the plunger button usually solves that.

2) The screws holding the center mount saddles on the tank are not loctited and love to back out and go AWOL.

3) If you mount the retaining wire (most just leave it off), spend the time to make sure you custom bend the ends of the wire so the eyelets lay nice and flat against the tank inserts with no tendency for the wire to bend the inserts sideways as you tighten the screws. Otherwise you may get a leak at the inserts.



I'm not sure what you mean by " enrichment plunger" I've been working on FCR carbs lately.

Thanks for your help , Dan in Enumclaw
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:54 AM   #2945
Just John
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HMM. I have a IMS 3.2 on the way for my 400s. Wonder if i will be having problems with the choke on my FCR slant body ?
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:59 AM   #2946
DRDANTDC
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adv gearing

What rear sprocket is best for ADV type riding, some HWY, some fire roads, and a little easy single track. This would be w/light weight gear. Stock is 44 rear, what is the most common, 42,40.... Anyone??
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DRDANTDC screwed with this post 05-06-2009 at 12:32 PM
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:53 AM   #2947
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRDANTDC
I'm not sure what you mean by " enrichment plunger" I've been working on FCR carbs lately.
The doohickey on the side of the carb you pull out to start the bike when cold (aka, "choke" although nobody actually uses an old-style choke in the inlet these days). I have the BST, but I've heard the FCR has the same interference issue with the Clarke. Could be wrong.

- Mark
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:30 PM   #2948
Remarksman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_L
My stocker came straight off and the Clarke dropped right back on. Very easy. Had to bend the cable tab on the frame just above the radiators up a little bit to keep it from rubbing into the tank but other than that, nothing special.
Ditto on the cable tabs. My DRZ came to me with the Clarke already on it, but when I took off the tank to do some maintenance, I found that those bendy cable routing things were rubbing the inside of the "saddle" part of the tank on both sides.

Sharp metal and plastic gas tanks - scary!
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:09 PM   #2949
Rob Dirt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRDANTDC
What rear sprocket is best for ADV type riding, some HWY, some fire roads, and a little easy single track. This would be w/light weight gear. Stock is 44 rear, what is the most common, 42,40.... Anyone??
15/44 (stock S gearing) is fine. I rode the TAT with 15/47 gearing. If you go any lower on the rear sprocket, then you need to remove some links on your chain.

15/44= 112 links
15/41= 110 links
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:14 PM   #2950
DRDANTDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtFreakRob
15/44 (stock S gearing) is fine. I rode the TAT with 15/47 gearing. If you go any lower on the rear sprocket, then you need to remove some links on your chain.

15/44= 112 links
15/41= 110 links
I didn't realize that, thanks for the info.
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:16 PM   #2951
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Will a RMZ450 05-08 Radiator shrouds fit the DRZ400SM?
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:46 PM   #2952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRDANTDC
I didn't realize that, thanks for the info.
Another way to get to the 15/47 ratio is 14/44. The front sprockets are easier to change IMO. I have 15/47 on mine but it's a plated offroad model so it had a 47 on back already. It will do 60-65 easily on the hiway but still be low enough for single track track trails without roaching your clutch.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:14 PM   #2953
DR. Rock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250
Another way to get to the 15/47 ratio is 14/44. The front sprockets are easier to change IMO. I have 15/47 on mine but it's a plated offroad model so it had a 47 on back already. It will do 60-65 easily on the hiway but still be low enough for single track track trails without roaching your clutch.
It's nearly the identical ratio, however, there's a theoretical advantage to 15/47. Quoting myself from my answer to question someone asked on our Mobius thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR. Rock
...

I've geared both bikes at 15/47. My priority is chain and sprocket longevity. The theory is that for any given chain length, you can calculate the number of revolutions that place the same link on the same tooth for each sprocket, and chain and sprocket wear will increase the more frequently they mesh. Instead, you want wear to be evenly distributed. So even though 14/44 and 15/47 are virtually the same gearing ratio, 15/47 would theoretically maximize chain & sprocket life. I run the rear Supersprox for the same reason.

If anything the gearing ratio is a little tall for the steep single track (of which we do little), and a little short for the interstate (of which we do almost none). Besides longevity, I think it optimizes gas mileage, and the 10-40mph range and flat to moderate grade climbing which constitutes 90% of our riding.

If I were mostly riding in the CO mountains, I'd probably gear down some... maybe 14/47, or 13/44, or even lower. Highway riding will suffer (as if it can get any worse).
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:19 PM   #2954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR. Rock
It's nearly the identical ratio, however, there's a theoretical advantage to 15/47. Quoting myself from my answer to question someone asked on our Mobius thread:
I just read that the other day! Still haven't finished your Mobius RR (on page 30 now) but I've enjoyed it all so far!
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:02 AM   #2955
Just John
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Bought one of those go pro cameras.....tried it on my 400s,off road.
As per go pro i had the sound on low.....you will have to turn it all the way up if you want to hear it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrrPDbf5f1I

http://www.youtube.com/watclh?v=jgRsOu_Z2Lk
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