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Old 05-18-2011, 11:15 AM   #9256
42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rthuey View Post
@42
if you can get downtown. you could be up n runnin soon after you got home. got some other bits you can have. no need to go n waste another weekend. besides i hear saturday is the last day for all of us to get our riding in forever
When I found out the douchebags at Bikebandit had to order it, I tried to cancel it. No go. Since it's on its way, I'll wait. Thanks for the offer.

edit. If it doesn't show by Tues I will buy from you.And I know about Sat.

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Old 05-18-2011, 02:17 PM   #9257
rthuey
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@42
aren't you in long island? or somewhere around me. may have gotten you confused with one of the other numbered inmates.
offered to part with parts from a bike i no longer have. these bits are to minor to try n sell. if your close scoop em up.
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:44 PM   #9258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rthuey View Post
@42
aren't you in long island? or somewhere around me. may have gotten you confused with one of the other numbered inmates.
offered to part with parts from a bike i no longer have. these bits are to minor to try n sell. if your close scoop em up.
PM'ed ya.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:14 PM   #9259
TRZ Charlie
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The PO of my bike had an electrical fire, I knew it when I bought it but have been plagued with intermittent charging (or lack of) problems. I just finished inspecting every square inch of the wiring harness. I found one broken wire and a couple of cold solder joints. Repairs have been made, but I still don't make the correct charging voltages.

To date I have:

1. Installed a new regulator/rectifier
2. Have split open, inspected and repaired every inch of the wiring harness
3. Installed a separate circuit through a relay and direct to the battery for grips, vest and gps.
4. Tested the stator for shorts, there aren't any
5. Tested the stator voltages and they are within specs

I need to check the rectifier and I know that there are 6 diodes that need checked but I don't know the procedure.

I have a big trip coming in August. This needs to be sorted prior to departure and I will be taxing the charging system as I need to charge and extra battery for my CPAP machine while riding. A good friend thinks it may be heat related and I am open to other possible diagnosis.

Any thoughts (besides "part it out" or "I'll give you $500 for it") would be appreciated.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:29 PM   #9260
Sparrowhawk
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Location: Eastern Washington, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42 View Post
When I found out the douchebags at Bikebandit had to order it, I tried to cancel it. No go. Since it's on its way, I'll wait. Thanks for the offer.

edit. If it doesn't show by Tues I will buy from you.And I know about Sat.
It doesn't hurt to have two. A broken clutch cable in the middle of a ride can be a real problem. While you can shift without one it can be a bitch to get going from a stop, especially in traffic or starting up a hill. I always keep a spare clutch cable zip tied to my working one.
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:05 AM   #9261
usp45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ Charlie View Post
The PO of my bike had an electrical fire, I knew it when I bought it but have been plagued with intermittent charging (or lack of) problems. I just finished inspecting every square inch of the wiring harness. I found one broken wire and a couple of cold solder joints. Repairs have been made, but I still don't make the correct charging voltages.

To date I have:

1. Installed a new regulator/rectifier
2. Have split open, inspected and repaired every inch of the wiring harness
3. Installed a separate circuit through a relay and direct to the battery for grips, vest and gps.
4. Tested the stator for shorts, there aren't any
5. Tested the stator voltages and they are within specs

I need to check the rectifier and I know that there are 6 diodes that need checked but I don't know the procedure.

I have a big trip coming in August. This needs to be sorted prior to departure and I will be taxing the charging system as I need to charge and extra battery for my CPAP machine while riding. A good friend thinks it may be heat related and I am open to other possible diagnosis.

Any thoughts (besides "part it out" or "I'll give you $500 for it") would be appreciated.
Charlie, I followed this procedure for testing everything and found it was the regulator/rectifier.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=627031

pretty easy, good luck
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:11 AM   #9262
Southernboy
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Stupid question, but what the hell are those OEM 'bar balancers' good for?
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:17 AM   #9263
jeff_in_rc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southernboy View Post
Stupid question, but what the hell are those OEM 'bar balancers' good for?
To dampen the vibes you get in the handlebars is all, if you don't like em toss em!
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:25 AM   #9264
HellSickle
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Location: Fort Collins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_in_rc View Post
To dampen the vibes you get in the handlebars is all, if you don't like em toss em!
I'm going to change that to the nit-picking engineering answer.

The end of bar weights add mass, lowering the harmonic vibration frequency of the handlebars to a frequency lower than the typical engine frequency. Damping implies some kind of energy absorbtion.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:36 AM   #9265
jeff_in_rc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
I'm going to change that to the nit-picking engineering answer.

The end of bar weights add mass, lowering the harmonic vibration frequency of the handlebars to a frequency lower than the typical engine frequency. Damping implies some kind of energy absorbtion.
I went with simple dude but WOW, you can sure tell an engineer, you ask them the time and they tell you how to build a watch!

Just funnin HellSickle, just funnin.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:42 AM   #9266
nucular
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wheel balancing

I just bought a used 02 S and had all kinds of handling problems over 45 or so. It was enough to shake you off the bike. One of the POs put on rim locks and never balanced the wheels. I eventually pulled out the rim locks and static balanced both front and rear and it fixed it up. The rear still required over 150g opposite the valve for some reason which is why I had to remove the rim lock. There wasn't enough room to put on 300g in counter weights.

I made up a homemade spoke weight to try to account for most of the weight and I used the stickons to make up the rest. I pressed the stick on weights in my shop press to try and form them to the rim profile. It works but I would like to clean this up eventually - and put the rim locks back in.

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Old 05-19-2011, 09:45 AM   #9267
42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rthuey View Post
@42
aren't you in long island? or somewhere around me. may have gotten you confused with one of the other numbered inmates.
offered to part with parts from a bike i no longer have. these bits are to minor to try n sell. if your close scoop em up.
Thanks again rthuey. 40min ride to pick up your parts,20 to install. One hour test ride ,priceless.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:52 AM   #9268
HellSickle
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Location: Fort Collins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_in_rc View Post
I went with simple dude but WOW, you can sure tell an engineer, you ask them the time and they tell you how to build a watch!

Just funnin HellSickle, just funnin.
Just so you know, "Anal-Retentive" *is* hyphenated. I've been labeled AHR on numerous occasions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nucular View Post
I just bought a used 02 S and had all kinds of handling problems over 45 or so. It was enough to shake you off the bike. One of the POs put on rim locks and never balanced the wheels. I eventually pulled out the rim locks and static balanced both front and rear and it fixed it up. The rear still required over 150g opposite the valve for some reason which is why I had to remove the rim lock. There wasn't enough room to put on 300g in counter weights.

I made up a homemade spoke weight to try to account for most of the weight and I used the stickons to make up the rest. I pressed the stick on weights in my shop press to try and form them to the rim profile. It works but I would like to clean this up eventually - and put the rim locks back in.
For those so inclined, you can make your own wheel weights. Being a fellow KLR rider, my wife is as cheap as I am.

1. Buy the biggest fishing weights you can find. Or, visit your local tire store on a warm day and scour the parking lot for lead weights to pry out of the asphalt (Yes, my wife did this when I was getting my van tires rotated).

2. Build a narrow rectangular form out of heavy duty aluminum foil. If you have them, bend the foil around a strip of the stick on motorcycle wheel weights.

3. Melt down the lead in a tin can with a propane torch.

4. Pour lead into the form, about 3/16 to 1/4 " thick.

5. After cooling, scribe the lead into sections with a chisel.

6. Mount the weights on the rim using either double sticky foam tape, or just tape them in place until a layer of RTV can cure.

We started doing this in revolt to the high price of motorcycle wheel weights. You can make your own weights for less than half the cost of what the bike shops want. Not to mention that you can recycle lead, keeping it out of land fills.
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HellSickle screwed with this post 05-19-2011 at 09:58 AM
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:55 AM   #9269
rthuey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usp45 View Post
Charlie, I followed this procedure for testing everything and found it was the regulator/rectifier.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=627031

pretty easy, good luck
tanks. that was one of the updated links i needed for thumpertalk.

trying to keep the thread index up to date but the thumpertalk change skewered links. have most fixed but if someone knows where the new link for these are please let me know so i can update:

Starter Shim Order
Carb Vent Reroute


also tanks to joedints who added a link to the index in post number 2 of the thread. this makes it easier for all of us to find it.

@nucular has been a while but i seem to remember rotating the tire on the rim to help adjust big weight issue like that. with no weight. maybe twist it 180 from where it is now, then re weight as needed.

@42
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rthuey screwed with this post 05-19-2011 at 10:02 AM
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:25 AM   #9270
GlennR
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I was thinking the same thing about rotating the tire 180. There are stamped marks on tires that I think indicate "something". I think maybe that's the lightest point, and I place it at the valve stem. Maybe I don't have the "facts" exactly right, but it seems to work for me.
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