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Old 09-18-2011, 07:58 AM   #10636
340hp
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Location: Desert Beach SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gots_a_sol View Post
Well this probably doesn't help much

right fork clap, cycra triple clamp mounts. I drilled an extra hole then bolted the key there with a new bracket (traced the original and then shortened it a bit)

Thanks for the reply.

I previously had the key switch on the left side, mounted off of the top bolt where the guide for the brake line is bolted. It worked until the real estate conflicted with hand guards.

I moved the key switch bracket to bolt into one of the two threaded holes on the front of the triple-tree, the two unused holes next to where the instrument bracket mounts. I had to turn the switch around in the bracket and clock the boot to make it look reasonable. The key switch is now tucked tight next to the instrument cluster. I now feed the key through the crossbar brace to get it into the switch, but once it's there it's out of the way.

Trying to find real estate for a GPS and roll chart looks to be a challenge. I looked at the HDB bracket & hand guards but my steering stabilizer is in the way. Are there any accessory sub-frames that use the headlight fairing bolts, or other ideas for organizing a dashbar?

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Old 09-18-2011, 07:58 AM   #10637
GlennR
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Location: Boone,NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace420 View Post
I have a DRZ400s and am currently running the Dunlop D606's on the bike as that is what I purchased it with. From what I have read they are great tires for dirt, however after owning this bike and a previous dual sport for quite some time I have found that I am never off road. Anyway today I was riding in the rain and the bike felt like it was on ice skates. Even when it is dry, the tires don't have much bite on the street. They are also extremely noisy!!!

I know that the SM would probably be a better setup for me, but that is not what I have. So my question is what would be the best street tires and size (if other then factory size) for someone running 100% street?

I haven't tried them, but the Kenda 761 and the Shinko 705 both look like good options for the street.

I have been running IRC GP-1 which looks like a 50/50 tire with good results on the street and also on some gravel/dirt.

IMO, 100% street tires look funny on a dual sport. But I would like to try them sometime too.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:13 AM   #10638
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
I can see the need for wind protection on dual sports while on the road. I'm surprised that nobody offers them for sale, but I haven't seen any here.
I think it looks pretty good too. But the market for such a thing on the DRZ is probably pretty limited - for every DRZ that is seeing big highway miles, twenty are used as playbikes and trail bikes; extensive plastic and dirt riding are not happy partners.

- Mark
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:04 PM   #10639
GlennR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
I think it looks pretty good too. But the market for such a thing on the DRZ is probably pretty limited - for every DRZ that is seeing big highway miles, twenty are used as playbikes and trail bikes; extensive plastic and dirt riding are not happy partners.

- Mark

That's a good point, but folks are always trying to stretch the limits of what dual sports are good at. Besides the DRZ400 comes in the SM version which is more street oriented than dirt. I'm sure more than 1 in 20 DRZ riders wish their bikes were a little better on the street.
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:10 PM   #10640
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340hp View Post
Trying to find real estate for a GPS and roll chart looks to be a challenge. I looked at the HDB bracket & hand guards but my steering stabilizer is in the way. Are there any accessory sub-frames that use the headlight fairing bolts, or other ideas for organizing a dashbar?

.
Hmm, I do not have a steering stabilizer, but am using the HDB handguards. They are SWEET, & when used with the RAM ball shown here:
http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResu...5/Default.aspx

The balls can be used with the stock top clamp too & would work really well for what you are attempting to do.

I'm using two of these ball mounts for a GPS & a SPOT device. I keep both tethered to the handlebar with a simple camera strap in case they pop out for some reason (never has happened). The pics below are of my setup, not finished yet, the key switch still needs a custom bracket to clean it up. Just need time to fab one.....
Photobucket


Photobucket

I also have a set of heated grips that I plan on installing soon, the HDB top clamp offers a perfect sopt for the switch.

Dasvis
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:24 PM   #10641
Tropic-Of-Canada
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Wind Shield

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
I can see the need for wind protection on dual sports while on the road. I'm surprised that nobody offers them for sale, but I haven't seen any here.
TCI products makes one! i'm considering geting it, but I have an acerbis headlight.... I think it will still work though!
https://tciproductsusa.com/index.php...roducts_id=570
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:45 PM   #10642
Poopmonkey
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Hardwiring accessories on a DR-Z

I have a 2008 DR-Z 400SM and a Garmin Zumo 660. The GPS is used and has crap battery life, so I’m trying to hardwire the Zumo to use the bike’s power. My boyfriend is helping, and we’re stumped. This seems more like a DR-Z issue than a GPS issue, so we're posting here. Also, we searched and found lots of discussion about GPS wiring, but not the very basics of how to do it. He's a EE, but we're both bike wiring noobs.

From him:
We already have some 16 gauge stranded wire, a blade-type weatherproof fuse holder, 2A fuses and the Garmin GPS mount. The question is how best to wire it up. Here’s the process we were thinking of:
  • Wrap one lead wire of fuse holder around DRZ’s positive battery screw terminal and screw it down. (Or should we use a crimped lug rather than wrapping the wire directly?)
  • Solder sufficient wire to the other lead to reach the mount (plus a little slack)
  • Use heat shrink to protect the solder connection
  • Wrap heat shrink in electrical tape to keep it sealed
  • Wrap one lead of the negative GPS wire around the negative terminal and screw dow
  • Route wires along the bike somehow – this is the biggest challenge
  • Solder, heat shrink & tape at the GPS mount
  • Install fuse
What is the best way to route the wires along the bike? How should they be protected? It looks like there are a lot of hot and sharp components along the route. Does the gas tank need to come off to do this?

Is there an easier way to do this on the DR-Z than what we’re thinking? We haven’t found anything better by searching. We looked at using a t-tap, but were concerned about reliability.
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:46 PM   #10643
SaharaJp99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poopmonkey View Post
I have a 2008 DR-Z 400SM and a Garmin Zumo 660. The GPS is used and has crap battery life, so I’m trying to hardwire the Zumo to use the bike’s power. My boyfriend is helping, and we’re stumped. This seems more like a DR-Z issue than a GPS issue, so we're posting here. Also, we searched and found lots of discussion about GPS wiring, but not the very basics of how to do it. He's a EE, but we're both bike wiring noobs.

From him:
We already have some 16 gauge stranded wire, a blade-type weatherproof fuse holder, 2A fuses and the Garmin GPS mount. The question is how best to wire it up. Here’s the process we were thinking of:
  • Wrap one lead wire of fuse holder around DRZ’s positive battery screw terminal and screw it down. (Or should we use a crimped lug rather than wrapping the wire directly?)
  • Solder sufficient wire to the other lead to reach the mount (plus a little slack)
  • Use heat shrink to protect the solder connection
  • Wrap heat shrink in electrical tape to keep it sealed
  • Wrap one lead of the negative GPS wire around the negative terminal and screw dow
  • Route wires along the bike somehow – this is the biggest challenge
  • Solder, heat shrink & tape at the GPS mount
  • Install fuse
What is the best way to route the wires along the bike? How should they be protected? It looks like there are a lot of hot and sharp components along the route. Does the gas tank need to come off to do this?

Is there an easier way to do this on the DR-Z than what we’re thinking? We haven’t found anything better by searching. We looked at using a t-tap, but were concerned about reliability.
Do you have the Garmin motorcycle mount that came with the GPS? Don't use the USB port for power, it is an unreliable connection as well as not water proof.

http://www.gpscity.com/garmin-zumo-6...wer-cable.html

If so, it already has the fuse holder built in and has more than enough length to route back to the battery, just crimp or solder on some ring terminals and you are good to go. I have the 665 on my other bike and bought another mount linked above to put on the DRZ, so I can move it from one bike to the other. I cut off the mic, audio out, and xm cords off of the harness and sealed them as the harness was too bulky and never plan to use any of those features on the DRZ. I just took the gas tank off, routed the wire along the clutch cable and along the frame, crossed to the left side of the frame above the airbox/underneath the seat and back to the battery. Easy as pie. You just have to remember when you park it to turn the GPS off or take it out of the mount so it doesn't drain the battery.

Here is a pic of it mounted:


Here is a pic of the harness routed along the clutch cable, underneath the gas tank and along the frame:

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Old 09-18-2011, 05:30 PM   #10644
0ldhippie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace420 View Post
Yes, and that is what one of my riding buddies has on his bike as that is what his came with. I actually think they look more appropriate for the type of riding that I do, however I am very skeptical as I usually hear so many negative comments about them.

Are there any real street tires available in sizes to fit the DRZ? Something more along the lines of what the SM has?
Pirelli MT 90 Scorpion A/T - Avon AM26 Roadrider - Bridgestone Battlax BT45V
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:45 PM   #10645
0ldhippie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropic-Of-Canada View Post
TCI products makes one! i'm considering geting it, but I have an acerbis headlight.... I think it will still work though!
https://tciproductsusa.com/index.php...roducts_id=570

I got a Slipstreamer Spitfire windscreen that works pretty good. I may lengthen the mounting arms to raise it up and back but a big improvement as is.
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Old 09-18-2011, 07:03 PM   #10646
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropic-Of-Canada View Post
TCI products makes one! i'm considering geting it, but I have an acerbis headlight.... I think it will still work though!
https://tciproductsusa.com/index.php...roducts_id=570
I have one, quality is top notch. What a difference it makes on a long rides @ highway speeds. Glad I bought mine!
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:32 PM   #10647
Fictitious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eternalRider View Post

what do you guys think of this? i want to make a dakar style fairing for my bike. i have a ninja fairing so might use that a a base and mod from there to suit my needs
Certainly looks interesting; I'm very curious to see how it turns out.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:23 PM   #10648
bobbed06
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I am about to start the dash wiring, mirrors, vapor install, headlight install, ignition relocation on my DRZ. I have no clue where I am gonna start. What makes it worse is that I insist on 7/8 crossbar style handlebars so I am gonna have to be super efficient on my available real estate.

Since I dont run turn signals I and will have my fan controlled manually by a handlebar mounted switch I need to ditch the neutral switch, the dash subpanel that houses the turn signal indicators,temp, and hi lo beam .

My goal is to eliminate all of the turn signal/ flasher relay, radiator temp sensors, neutral switch and wiring, while retaining temp function on my Vapor and wiring the headlight completely seperate via a relay and controlling that with the switches that are mounted on the headlight housing. The fan will be manually controlled as well.

I may try and mount the Trailtech Vapor behind my bars directly in front of my tank since I have risers installed.
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:13 AM   #10649
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
You could start by laying the entire harness on a bench once you have figured out the additions, subtractions and modifications... then open it up and do what needs to be done.
Yep, I have to do some research on this some more as I just started thinking about what I need my bike to have. I may try and mimic the "E" wiring harness somewhat with the exception of the fan. I have already bypassed the clutch safety switch, and the kickstand switch. I really want to get rid of the rats nest of wiring behind the headlight.
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:48 AM   #10650
One Less Harley
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I made this mount for a roll chart holder and Spot. It's just an angle bracket and some bolts to hold the accessory mounts. For the gps there is just a ball socket attached to the AL handlebar guard. Switiches are from left to right, headlight, heated jacket liner (not used), heated grips, and a yellow indicator light for the grips. Green light on clamp is a voltage idiot light.



.

Also relocated the ign switch to a better location.



This picture shows a voltage gauge but it broke on the 1st crash. Looks crowded but the speedo isn't blocked. With bar risers I had to raise the speedo up about 1 inch as the HDB clamp blocked it a little.




...and to wire all that stuff, instead of taking all the wire to the battery w/ five different fuses. I modified what was there fusing the accessories to a Eastern Beaver fuse block.

Wires.......



...and buttoned up.

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One Less Harley screwed with this post 09-19-2011 at 07:07 AM
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