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Old 01-03-2012, 09:48 AM   #11941
ptgarcia
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Originally Posted by Jettn Jim View Post
Anybody running a Braided front brake line? When I swapped the DRZ forks onto my KLR I just used an extra braided line I had laying around... I would like to get my hands on the rigid tube that sheeths the cable running up the left leg.
So what setup are you guys using... Thanx JJ


I run Venhill braided lines front and back.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:04 AM   #11942
One Less Harley
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If your motive is improved braking and running a DRZ off road then there is no need to use a braided line in the rear. Unless just wanting to spend $$$$, even though the braided line will improve braking the OEM rear is plenty adequate for the job. For the road maybe, but off road not needed. The rear is easy to lock up on or off road with the stock line.

Braided line on the front offers better feel and firmer lever.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:24 AM   #11943
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Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
If your motive is improved braking and running a DRZ off road then there is no need to use a braided line in the rear. Unless just wanting to spend $$$$, even though the braided line will improve braking the OEM rear is plenty adequate for the job. For the road maybe, but off road not needed. The rear is easy to lock up on or off road with the stock line.

Braided line on the front offers better feel and firmer lever.

The stock rear setup is pretty crappy, even for dirt use. Mine was spongy and lacked feel, even with fresh fluid and a good bleed. I swapped the factory master cylinder for a Honda unit off a '08 CRF450R and installed the steel braided line and now the brake works like it should.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:36 AM   #11944
LittleRedToyota
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Originally Posted by ptgarcia View Post
now the brake works like it should.
you mean it's not really supposed to be an on-off switch?
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:58 AM   #11945
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I can lock my stock rear brake easily on pavement. 50/50 tires. Must be you..., or street tires w/ more grip.

Then let me put it this way.... if the rear brake locks up easily then don't waste the money, if not do what needs to be done....be that rebuild MC or calipers, or something else, which shouldn't be needed. At least with my old 2003 DRZ. BTW MC and caliper have been rebuilt, but even before locking up was no problem.

I think the rear pads are EBC Green.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:24 AM   #11946
oldcodger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jettn Jim View Post
Anybody running a Braided front brake line? When I swapped the DRZ forks onto my KLR I just used an extra braided line I had laying around... I would like to get my hands on the rigid tube that sheeths the cable running up the left leg.
So what setup are you guys using... Thanx JJ
Hi,

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...ink-tubing.htm

Cheers
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:40 PM   #11947
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in my experience, the problem with the DRZ rear brake is not that you cannot lock it up.

the problem is that, in dirt, there is too little continuum between "no-braking-at-all" and "locked up". (seems to be OK on the street to me, though.)

the brake lever has plenty of movement, but you just don't get much braking until the bottom and then it is locked up.

it kinda goes:

little bit of brake -> still just a little bit of brake -> still just a little bit of brake -> still just a little bit of brake -> rear wheel locked up

it needs to be more consistently progressive instead of being an on-off switch.
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:57 PM   #11948
markjenn
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Maybe there is variance between samples, but my my subjective observation is that my 06 DRZ with stock rear brakes has one of the better rear brakes I've experienced on a dirt bike. Good modulation, power, etc. Definitely better than several KTM's I've owned.

Another observation I'll make is that many riders routinely overheat their rear brakes through overuse. This can result in glazed rotors, overheated pads, etc. which can result in poor performance.

- Mark
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:08 PM   #11949
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Originally Posted by LittleRedToyota View Post
in my experience, the problem with the DRZ rear brake is not that you cannot lock it up.

the problem is that, in dirt, there is too little continuum between "no-braking-at-all" and "locked up". (seems to be OK on the street to me, though.)

the brake lever has plenty of movement, but you just don't get much braking until the bottom and then it is locked up.

it kinda goes:

little bit of brake -> still just a little bit of brake -> still just a little bit of brake -> still just a little bit of brake -> rear wheel locked up

it needs to be more consistently progressive instead of being an on-off switch.

My brake acted the same way, but the CRF master cylinder made a vast improvement. Add to that the crappy reservoir that likes to bulge and the stock DR-Z rear brake is just mediocre.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:00 PM   #11950
Gadget678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jettn Jim View Post
Anybody running a Braided front brake line? When I swapped the DRZ forks onto my KLR I just used an extra braided line I had laying around... I would like to get my hands on the rigid tube that sheeths the cable running up the left leg.
So what setup are you guys using... Thanx JJ
I bought a braided line with coating, primarily as I wanted a shorter brake line to fit under my Nav tower for the Australasian Safari . At many hardware stores over here you can get clear hose, probably much the same as the fuel line that has already been mentioned. Shrink wrap (also already mentioned) would probably be a tidier job, or maybe a combination of both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
If your motive is improved braking and running a DRZ off road then there is no need to use a braided line in the rear. Unless just wanting to spend $$$$, even though the braided line will improve braking the OEM rear is plenty adequate for the job. For the road maybe, but off road not needed. The rear is easy to lock up on or off road with the stock line.

Braided line on the front offers better feel and firmer lever.
I'm not sure about over there, but coated braided lines are only about $125 over here.

While the rear brakes can lock up on anything in standard trim, braided lines have their place. There was a day on the Safari when I wished I'd gone for a braided line on the rear as well.... I kept cooking the rears and loosing rear brakes completely on a long section of fast 'river type' trail... lots of throttle, brake, turn - repeat, repeat, repeat for what seemed like a few hours. The front stayed strong all the way through, and had just as much use (it actually had more use when the rears went).
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Old 01-03-2012, 06:05 PM   #11951
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Hi,

I ruined the original PVC coating when the hose and wiring for a Vapor speedo bound in one of the fork guides and kinked the hose at the bottom where it fixes to the fork leg. While re-covering the hose I took the opportunity to strip the centre portion of the heavy insulator from the Vapor wiring and lay the wires in under the PVC heat shrink. There is about 3" of the heavy insulator remaining under each end of the PVC.

Cheers
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:15 PM   #11952
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Thanx for all the braking info folks... It's a KLR (with DRZ forks) and NO I don't use stainless lines on the rear.... locks up eeeaasy as is.
I'm all good on the heat shrink too, use it to insulate my clutch side heater from the bars, as well as on lotsa elec connections... what I'm looking for is the RIGID plastic pc that stays fixed to the bottom of the fork and lets the brake line slide up and down inside it. Lets you run the line up the front of the fork tube instead of a baggy loop hanging behind it. When I looked at a new DRZ in the showroom it looked like the plastic tube was a part of the original brake line, sooo I wondered what you guys who swithched to stainless lines ended up using?
Thanx a million,
Jim

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Old 01-03-2012, 07:38 PM   #11953
oldcodger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jettn Jim View Post
Thanx for all the braking info folks... It's a KLR (with DRZ forks) and NO I don't use stainless lines on the rear.... locks up eeeaasy as is.
I'm all good on the heat shrink too, use it to insulate my clutch side heater from the bars, as well as on lotsa elec connections... what I'm looking for is the RIGID plastic pc that stays fixed to the bottom of the fork and lets the brake line slide up and down inside it. Lets you run the line up the front of the fork tube instead of a baggy loop hanging behind it. When I looked at a new DRZ in the showroom it looked like the plactic tube was a part of the original brake line, sooo I wondered what you guys who swithched to stainless lines ended up using?
Thanx a million,
Jim
That is heat shrink (probably PVC) on the hose and it is surprisingly stiff. It is not your average hardware store bought stuff. Two or more layers can be used if you want it stiffer. Do the same with braided hoses.
There is no point in trying to reinvent something that has already been done and it would be an easy to retrofit. On late bikes there are two guides on the triples and a clamp on the lower leg.
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:09 PM   #11954
One Less Harley
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Originally Posted by Gadget678 View Post
I
While the rear brakes can lock up on anything in standard trim, braided lines have their place. There was a day on the Safari when I wished I'd gone for a braided line on the rear as well.... I kept cooking the rears and loosing rear brakes completely on a long section of fast 'river type' trail... lots of throttle, brake, turn - repeat, repeat, repeat for what seemed like a few hours. The front stayed strong all the way through, and had just as much use (it actually had more use when the rears went).
I don't believe the type of line will affect brake fluid boiling..,but once fluid boils brake fluid doesn't work as well. Lots of people work the rear brake over in the loose stuff. The heat is from the caliper/rotor/pads.


$125 for a braided line......sheeeeit, glad I don't ride over there!!!
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:54 PM   #11955
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Got moose drz braided line of Ebay cheap. Came with the tube on it. Made a big difference. Almost sent the 320 kit back but the front it is really good now. The rear is total crap, no leaks, sanded rotor, new pads & fluid. Still can barely lock it in the dirt with all my 200lbs on the pedal?
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