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Old 05-25-2009, 04:35 PM   #1516
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Wing
Thanks for the reply Lacking1, checked my DR’s manual just now and the gearing except for the stock standard final drive (12/47) on the farm bike (Trojan) version, the gearing is exactly the same. I’ve change the final however already to 15/45 and with me plus camping kit on the bike (110kg/242lbs total) I can cruise on most open roads with moderate hills in 5th and have to change to 4th only on the more steeper hills.

The DR is now my girlfriend’s ride, much lighter so I would like to change to 15/42 to keep the RPM down for long distance rides and to be better matched with the TTR 250 for cruising speed but a 42 seems impossible to find here in SA. Next option would be 14/39 which is just about the same ratio. Wonder if anyone has tried this combination and whether the standard 112 link chain would not be too long?

From a previous discussion ... I’ve checked out the Top Gun tach for the DR650. They have sent me the measurements for the mounting plate, 99mm from the centre of the mounting screws for the handle bars so it seems an exact fit for the DR200 – great. One concern though, the tach uses its own battery that they recon would last at least 5 years. I found another tach looking the same as the Top Gun one but the supplier mentioned the battery is not replaceable, the unit is sealed (potted) suggesting one would have to throw the unit away once the battery is flat .... is this assumption correct and is it the case with the Top Gun unit? (Could ask the supplier but I thought I mention/ask it here also.)
I think you are correct. The Top Gun unit is a Tiny Tach on their bracket. I bought one for my DR650 and it works fine. I would recommend that you get the one that updates every 0.5 seconds rather than the one that updates every 2.5 seconds. I got the slow one by mistake and it lags pretty bad. If you buy direct from tiny tach the slow one was a bit less than top gun, while the fast one was considerably more from tiny tach.
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:24 PM   #1517
X-Wing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
I think you are correct. The Top Gun unit is a Tiny Tach on their bracket. ......
I’m considering ordering the Top Gun tach but before I go through the effort to get to SA, is this tack in fact sealed and would be useless once the battery is flat?
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:43 PM   #1518
Lacking1
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14/39 combo

Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Wing
Thanks for the reply Lacking1, checked my DR’s manual just now and the gearing except for the stock standard final drive (12/47) on the farm bike (Trojan) version, the gearing is exactly the same. I’ve change the final however already to 15/45 and with me plus camping kit on the bike (110kg/242lbs total) I can cruise on most open roads with moderate hills in 5th and have to change to 4th only on the more steeper hills.

The DR is now my girlfriend’s ride, much lighter so I would like to change to 15/42 to keep the RPM down for long distance rides and to be better matched with the TTR 250 for cruising speed but a 42 seems impossible to find here in SA. Next option would be 14/39 which is just about the same ratio. Wonder if anyone has tried this combination and whether the standard 112 link chain would not be too long?

From a previous discussion ... I’ve checked out the Top Gun tach for the DR650. They have sent me the measurements for the mounting plate, 99mm from the centre of the mounting screws for the handle bars so it seems an exact fit for the DR200 – great. One concern though, the tach uses its own battery that they recon would last at least 5 years. I found another tach looking the same as the Top Gun one but the supplier mentioned the battery is not replaceable, the unit is sealed (potted) suggesting one would have to throw the unit away once the battery is flat .... is this assumption correct and is it the case with the Top Gun unit? (Could ask the supplier but I thought I mention/ask it here also.)
I've been thinking about ordering the 14T front sprocket for my bike too. I think someone suggested this ratio earlier in the thread? But, I don't think there is any mention about the chain length. I've heard in the past that if you only go up one tooth, you shouldn't have to worry about the chain length, but I wouldn't know for sure myself. I guess you'll have to be ready to lose a few links, if it is too long?
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:57 PM   #1519
zomby woof
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Quote:
Thanks for doing the research Zomby, you know what you’re talking about!
Glad it worked out for you!
Live with it for a while, and you'll really appreciate the extra power. In time, you'll get a feel for what it wants as far a jetting, etc. Sometimes you need to go rich, sometimes lean, and others, stock is fine.
I use regular fiberglass insulation to pack a muffler.
So far, its worked fine for me.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:09 AM   #1520
SquirrelyGrl
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DR200!! Woot, finally a pic of it on here!

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Old 05-27-2009, 09:35 AM   #1521
HeReTiK
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Help!

My DR200, my daily driver, will not start. I am certain it is a electrical issue. This problem is intermittently preventing the bike from starting. Sometimes I will be driving and the bike will die completely.

- All electrical stuff works fine when ignition is turned on(Lights, horn, etc.)
- When shorted, starter relay turns starter motor but bike refuses to start.
- After testing, I discovered the starter button is NOT even getting voltage. This means obviously I have a problem very early on in the circuit.

The weird thing is that it's not just a problem with the electric start, it's a problem that is completely preventing the bike from starting.

Please help!

- HeReTiK
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:21 AM   #1522
Klay
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Check the main fuse?
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:34 AM   #1523
HeReTiK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Check the main fuse?
Main fuse is good. Again, all electrical components seem to be working fine with the exception of the electric start.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
ReT
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:50 PM   #1524
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeReTiK
Main fuse is good. Again, all electrical components seem to be working fine with the exception of the electric start.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
ReT
ReT,

Don't panic, and go back to the basics. I'm guessing that you can't even bump start the bike, right? If not, and this is still an intermittent problem, then you likely still have a bad switch(es), connection(s) or wire(s) somewhere. IIRC, you bypassed the clutch switch, right? If not, do it now. Ditto for the sidestand switch. Based upon your description, and that of others on these forums, the problem really sounds like the sidestand switch, as that one will kill the ignition, too. You need to backtrack the wires and find out why the starter switch is not getting voltage if the saftey switches are bypassed. Use that multitester to get to the bottom of this.

Good luck, Andy
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:56 PM   #1525
HeReTiK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
ReT,

Don't panic, and go back to the basics. I'm guessing that you can't even bump start the bike, right? If not, and this is still an intermittent problem, then you likely still have a bad switch(es), connection(s) or wire(s) somewhere. IIRC, you bypassed the clutch switch, right? If not, do it now. Ditto for the sidestand switch. Based upon your description, and that of others on these forums, the problem really sounds like the sidestand switch, as that one will kill the ignition, too. You need to backtrack the wires and find out why the starter switch is not getting voltage if the saftey switches are bypassed. Use that multitester to get to the bottom of this.

Good luck, Andy
Yeah I can't even bump start it.

I bypassed the clutch safety switch. From what I understand the sidestand switch is AFTER the starter button so that would be one of the last things I would check so I didn't even think of that. I will check to see if I'm getting voltage TO the sidestand...

I think the problem is somewhere around the front headlight - a bad ground or something. It's very confusing navigating the mess of wires there.

Thanks for the help...

- ReT
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:02 PM   #1526
Klay
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There's got to be a loose connection somewhere. Make sure the battery is grounded properly.. Then I would start at the positive terminal of the battery and go down the line looking at every connector.
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:15 PM   #1527
HeReTiK
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Sidestand switch at the green/white wire is getting 1V according to my multimeter...
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:33 PM   #1528
CodyY
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Any luck with a brake upgrade? Maybe a bigger rotor off a 350 or a 400?
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:54 PM   #1529
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquirrelyGrl

Looks like a great setup! Got any stories?
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:18 PM   #1530
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
There's got to be a loose connection somewhere. Make sure the battery is grounded properly.. Then I would start at the positive terminal of the battery and go down the line looking at every connector.
Klay,

Do you have a wiring diagram you could post? I thought you did before, but I can't find it. If I can see that maybe I can figure this out for ReT.

Thanks Andy
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