the DR200 thread

[Andyinhilo]

Originally Posted by kelly007

I need to take the plunge and get myself new sprocket and chain, on 14000km and the chain is looking sad as well as the engine sprocket. Have read all the posts for this thread.... but wanted a final opinion on what sprockets to go for, at the moment i have 12/47, should i go to the standard 15/45 or I think it was 15/42 that others ran. I dont do much off road, just dust roads and the sort, which i ride at my current setups comfortable speed of 60km/h. Looking to be more comfortable for longer distance without being a mission doing the work drive traffic everyday. The genreal alt around here is about 1500m - 2500m if thats any help. Thanks in advance

I ride like you, and the stock ratio (15/45) works well for me.

[Andyinhilo]

Originally Posted by wardie

Vaccuum tube and all other lines are good. I will pull jets today and blow air into the carb and see what happens. I looked at jets yesterday and they were clear? I measured the float height and it is correct. Plenty of fuel in the bowl. I even thought the needle might be hanging up not going into jet so I stuck my finger into the venturi and manually moved the slide it was free. I can't figure out why when you give it a handfull of throttle and let off the rpm's stay high for quite a while until it slows back down? Sprayed everywhere looking for an air leak. Man if it wasn't so laughable things it would get ugly with the big hammer you know? LOL Wardie

Hey Wardie,

The motor revving when you choke it is a sign of being too lean, esp. at idle. When it is lean, then you give it a big shot of fuel, it will pick up and run like it should, but that is too fast, since you have it trying to idle too lean, if you follow me. Remember that there is no choke on these carbs, but an enrichening valve, so it gets more fuel rather than less air. The continued high revving after the throttle is released is also a characteristic of a lean CV carb.

As Klay noted, you probably have a tiny speck of foreign matter in the carb somewhere. When I got mine, it would not start at all. As I knew it had been sitting, I went straight for the carb, only to find it apparently spotless. Back together, still wont run. back apart, and ran a fine copper wire thru the spotless jets, saw nothing come out, put it back together, and it started, but ran very poorly. I then found the air filter was badly rotted. I ordered a new one, and being impatient, I got busy with the scissors foam and contact cement and made one. With that bit of restriction in place it ran fine.

The moral of this story is that with this particular carb/motor combination, it has to be just right or it won't run right. With a NoToil filter, mine starts instantly without choking (enrichening) and runs cleanly right away, if I run it regularly. If it sits a week or more I may have to choke it to start, but once it fires it is good to go.

Like Klay says, you just need to continue working at it.

Let us know what happens.

[Klay]

Originally Posted by Andyinhilo

I ride like you, and the stock ratio (15/45) works well for me.

I've found that the stock ratio is pretty much the best compromise. I weigh about 200 pounds.

[Klay]

Wardie, I had trouble with the bike running rough once in the past, and I took the carb apart and cleaned it without effect. It looked perfect...no detectable foreign objects. It still didn't run good. I took it apart and blindly cleaned it some more...and the problem cleared up.

[wardie]

ll for their help. Wardie

Found small speck in pilot jet. Recleaned again.
Replaced vaccuum hose from petcock to carb.
Bikes runs okay but not like it did when it comes to idling. Occassionally stalls for no apparent reason.
Measured gasoline amount in fuel bowl and verified proper float height.
Verified needle jet and slide movement and spring condition.

I want to thank all of you for your help. It really helps me to think out of the box when I get help like you guys gave. It was cool and I'll buy the beers when we meet up down the road. Wardie

[jamier]

Originally Posted by HeReTiK

Hmm.... you already moved it up as much as possible, so I guess an aftermarket shifter is the only possibility. I would take a look at aftermarket shifters for other suzuki offroad/SM bikes as they are most likely to fit the spline. Are you absolutely sure you need this though? I remember going from usually wearing hiking boots to MSR MX boots and initially had a lot of a difficulty shifting. But I adjusted very quickly and within a month was comfortable with shifting with the larger boots. I would recommend that you just give it time. ;)

I moved it up 1 notch on the spline and thought it was good... then took it for a ride and couldnt get it out of first gear. I have to sit all the way forward and really get the boot in there to get it on the lever.

I'll give it some time to see if I can work it out. They are Moose M1 boots so they are big and not broken in yet. I even wore them around raking leaves the other day.

[web037]

Originally Posted by wardie

ll for their help. Wardie

Found small speck in pilot jet. Recleaned again.
Replaced vaccuum hose from petcock to carb.
Bikes runs okay but not like it did when it comes to idling. Occassionally stalls for no apparent reason.
Measured gasoline amount in fuel bowl and verified proper float height.
Verified needle jet and slide movement and spring condition.

I want to thank all of you for your help. It really helps me to think out of the box when I get help like you guys gave. It was cool and I'll buy the beers when we meet up down the road. Wardie

You could have a leak either where the air box joins the carb or more likely where the carb joins the intake manifold. while it is idling spray some carb cleaner along the joints there, if the bike stalls you have a leak. Just a small leak on the intake side will make it run lean and poorly.

[wardie]

I sprayed enough carb cleaner to start a fire and no perceptible rpm change.
Wish it was that easy but appreciate your help. Wardie

[Andyinhilo]

Originally Posted by wardie

ll for their help. Wardie

Found small speck in pilot jet. Recleaned again.
Replaced vaccuum hose from petcock to carb.
Bikes runs okay but not like it did when it comes to idling. Occassionally stalls for no apparent reason.
Measured gasoline amount in fuel bowl and verified proper float height.
Verified needle jet and slide movement and spring condition.

I want to thank all of you for your help. It really helps me to think out of the box when I get help like you guys gave. It was cool and I'll buy the beers when we meet up down the road. Wardie

Good to hear that it is running better. The occassional stall sounds like you need to fine tune the low speed mixture a bit. To adjust while running, get a small hex bit and you can adjust the mixture screw for highest speed when it is idling, then turn out about 1/8-1/4 turn, then set the idle stop screw for the desired speed.

Aloha, Andy

[wardie]

Ordered adjustable idle mixture screw and float bowl screws from Jesse. A very nice guy pleasure doing business with.

Has anyone used the no-toil air filter. What was the cost and was installation straight forward? Part #? and source. Thanks Wardie

[jamier]

2 new upgrades:

Skidplate:
http://www.dualsportarmory.com/produ...category_id=50
Ricochet - DR200 wasnt listed but they have the specs.
I don't have the slip in front of me but I think it was around $80.
Install was pretty easy once I figured out where it went. I'm new to dirt bikes but I would have liked more coverage in the filter casing area.





and a new petcock from bikebandit for $20. (I can get the part number if needed)
Just a little trim to the back of the lever to get it past the tank.
Install was simple after draining the tank.

[Andyinhilo]

Originally Posted by wardie

Ordered adjustable idle mixture screw and float bowl screws from Jesse. A very nice guy pleasure doing business with.

Has anyone used the no-toil air filter. What was the cost and was installation straight forward? Part #? and source. Thanks Wardie

Wardie,

I got my NoToil filter from BikeBandit:

http://www.bikebandit.com/no-toil-fo...=1682&t=1&td=1

Cost was about $20.00

It works as well as any filter. Moose Racing also has one.

[HeReTiK]

Originally Posted by Andyinhilo

Wardie,

I got my NoToil filter from BikeBandit:

http://www.bikebandit.com/no-toil-fo...=1682&t=1&td=1

Cost was about $20.00

It works as well as any filter. Moose Racing also has one.

Hey Andy, what does No Toil mean exactly? I'm looking at getting one for my DR but wasn't sure what the difference was from stock...

[mrchristian]

Originally Posted by wardie

Has anyone used the no-toil air filter. What was the cost and was installation straight forward? Part #? and source. Thanks Wardie

I've got the Moose Racing filter ordered from my local dirt bike shop. Same price as online but no shipping costs. Works great with the no-toil filter oil and cleaner.

[Andyinhilo]

Originally Posted by HeReTiK

Hey Andy, what does No Toil mean exactly? I'm looking at getting one for my DR but wasn't sure what the difference was from stock...

No Toil is the brand name. It is about the same as other foam filters as far as I could tell. No Toil also makes a filter oil that is allegedly easier to use and environmentally friendly, IIRC. I just used regular filter oil on mine. Getting things like oil shipped to Hawaii can be a PITA, so I try to buy locally when I can.