the DR200 thread

[Klay]

Only thing I can think of is make sure all your connecters are clean, especially the battery terminals.

[flash5twelve]

Originally Posted by Klay

Only thing I can think of is make sure all your connecters are clean, especially the battery terminals.

I pulled the battery out and found the negative terminal a bit loose. Cleaned both up and tightened them down. No problems yet...

I think I still may have a fuel problem. Took her out again and I feel a little hesitation once in a while. It also started idling a little rough. I guess I'm gonna have to learn about the carburetor.

Also, I was asking about adjusting the rear shock a couple of pages back. I finally got some of my tools down here today, so I stiffened the rear by a couple of turns. I like the ride much better. Thanks for everyone's help on that one.

[Klay]

Originally Posted by flash5twelve

I think I still may have a fuel problem. Took her out again and I feel a little hesitation once in a while. It also started idling a little rough. I guess I'm gonna have to learn about the carburetor.

That's exactly how mine behaved when the carb got a little dirty once. You'll find that it's very easy to work on. Just take the hoses and throttle cables off and loosen the boots. Then just turn the carb 90 degreess and you can take the float bowl off and take the needles out without taking the carb off the bike. The carb is very simple inside.

[bross]

Originally Posted by flash5twelve

I pulled the battery out and found the negative terminal a bit loose. Cleaned both up and tightened them down. No problems yet...

I think I still may have a fuel problem. Took her out again and I feel a little hesitation once in a while. It also started idling a little rough. I guess I'm gonna have to learn about the carburetor.

Also, I was asking about adjusting the rear shock a couple of pages back. I finally got some of my tools down here today, so I stiffened the rear by a couple of turns. I like the ride much better. Thanks for everyone's help on that one.

Originally Posted by Klay

That's exactly how mine behaved when the carb got a little dirty once. You'll find that it's very easy to work on. Just take the hoses and throttle cables off and loosen the boots. Then just turn the carb 90 degreess and you can take the float bowl off and take the needles out without taking the carb off the bike. The carb is very simple inside.

Or just try some Seafoam. Add the proper amount for your tank full of gas and run that tank through the bike and see what it's like on your next fill. Sure been reading a lot about bad fuel lately and people finding fuel containing as much as 20% ethanol. The Seafoam will help to negate the negative affects of ethanol. I know Seafoam doesn't replace the need for a thorough carb cleaning but if the rough running is just due to crappy fuel, then a carb cleaning isn't going to help either.

[Klay]

Be careful with Seafoam. It can flush debris from the tank into the carb and clog up the filter and jets. I prefer to pull the jets and clean them with carb cleaner.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by flash5twelve

Went out to my DR200 this morning to start it up. Battery dead. I just rode it yesterday...

I bump started it and got on my way. A couple of miles into the ride it died. I pulled it over and got it started it again. It would idle, but it would sputter and try to die when I would crack the throttle. I limped to a gas station at idle in first gear to check it out.

I added fresh gas, and bump started it again. Same story with the throttle. Pulled the seat off, opened the air box, and took out the filter. Bump started it again, and it revved up fine. Left it idling, and put things back together. Hit the road and it runs fine. Parked it for a bit, and it started up with electric.

I'm thinking the battery issue is unrelated to the running problem. My guess is there was something in the carburetor that cleared itself. Running it for a while charged the battery, and that solved the separate issue.

Does anyone have any thoughts of anything that I should be checking to make sure this doesn't happen again?

Intermittent issues are hard to troubleshoot. The bike when started will run self contained without the battery installed (stator supply`ing the juice) So The only thing the battery could cause ....is the no start....once going.....the battery would not cause it to fail.....Unless your stator is bad....Or your RR (regulator/rectifier) Bad gas usually clears itself.....Check the vacuum line from the right side of the carb to the fuel petcock for kinks....cracks....That could cause it.


Erling

[ebrabaek]

Ok so I had some time to work on the jetting today, and I wanted to put the new FMF Q4 on it......but the end cap was installed poorly/incorrectly.....


Leaving a 2mm gap between the endgap and can.........


Well that sucked.....Called FMF, and they agreed that it was installed wrong.....but said the only thing they could do was for me to send it back ....(me pay shipping)....then they would tear it apart and fix it....and it would take 2-4 weeks...... I could not believe this, and told them it was ordered from Thumpertalk last week......They said that`s the best they could de.....That`s real bad cust serv. Unfortunately it`s the only aftermarket can avail for this little one. So I called Thumpertalk, and they saw the pic`s, and was stunned as well, but said that they would fed-ex me a return label so to send it back to them, and they would talk with their rep, and send me another one....asap....with no shipping expense. Mind you that they had nothing to do with this, but are taking care of their customers, whereas it really should be FMF fixing this.....Shame on FMF. So it will be another week or two before I get it going with the new pipe.....

Erling

[ebrabaek]

Ok for you high altituders that installed the Kientech jet kit with open airbox......stock or modded muffler.....The main jet is mostly too big. I got my kit in it. I am in the desert southwest USA at 4100-5000 feet (1300-1600 meters) When you open up the airbox and re-jet for higher alt....4000'+....you usually leave the main jet alone.........Specially if you install a custom tapered needle. With the supplied 132.5 in I noticed that when rolling onto wot (from 7/8 to 8/8 throttle) it had a momentary bog....very minute but still there... That is usually indication of too rich, and when you transfer from the needle to the main it coughs a little and then catches on. So I put the stock 125 MJ back in, and the WOT was now snappier/livelier, and more important the bog was gone. If I was at sea level, I`m sure the 132.5 would be fine, but we ride ours from 4000 up to 12000'...


Erling

[flash5twelve]

Originally Posted by Klay

That's exactly how mine behaved when the carb got a little dirty once. You'll find that it's very easy to work on. Just take the hoses and throttle cables off and loosen the boots. Then just turn the carb 90 degreess and you can take the float bowl off and take the needles out without taking the carb off the bike. The carb is very simple inside.

I bought some carburetor cleaner, and tore into it today. I'm not sure all I was looking at when I got it open, but I pulled it apart and blasted it with carb cleaner. I found a really fine metal shaving about 1/4 inch long maybe from the casting. I only removed the big needle from the center. Put it all back together, and it runs great! Took it out for a little spin, and she runs like she used to.

I changed the oil since my hands were already dirty. It was good to turn a wrench again. It's been a while.

I haven't had any more problems with starting since I tightened that battery connection. I'm hoping that's all it was.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

[Klay]

Good to hear.

[planemanx15]

Heres some shots of my lil' beast

Before new paint, when I first bought her...



After a fresh coat of paint



With my ebay special top case..



and finally with my other 2 wheeled beast "Killer tofu"



Still needs decals!

Since I got the DR in mid october ive put on 200 miles mostly on road. Its cold here in NY so i installed heated hand grips and they work great. The top case is awesome, almost wish i had went with the bigger one because this one fills fast. The case is removable and does come off when Im in the rougher trails (I hit my back on it too many times). Im 5'8" 180lbs and the bike is nearly a good fit. A 400cc actually was a bit too tall for me, and a 650 would have to be lowered. I am thinking about tightening the rear shock to get an inch more out of her, and so its not as soft. Ive also been putting some thought into dropping a 450cc in her but thats a different story!

[Klay]

Nice.

[ebrabaek]

I got the explanation back from FMF. They stated that they had to mount the end cap like this so not to burn the tail light......Perhaps this is correct, but then you retool and make an end cap that fits....Anyway...It looks cheesy, but works great. It is louder than the sub 96db they claim. I measured 98 db sae@4000 rpm 20 inches...45 deg. angle. Performance wise it is good. I run with kientech needle 4 th clip...fuelscrew 2 turns out 37.5 PJ, but kept the stock 125 MJ....Open airbox. I`m at 4000-5000 elevation desert southwest. And It helped after re-jetting quite a lot....and ow it can breathe....It pulls very strong,and will criuse at 65-70mpg all day....I`m 200 lbs.....Again mind the altitude.....




Here you can hear it....It`s loud......




Erling

[kelly007]

Havent found anything in the thread about this,

Is it just me or is the whole washing the air filter with warm soapy water a strange experience. I dont get it , the oil obviously turns to cream and the air filter is then just covered in that, then try squeeze it all out, making a mess in process, let it dry then reoil, does that sound right???:??? How often should you replace the thing straight out?

thanks for any advice in advance

ps. my Dr turned 15000km today on the way to work:) Treeting it to a nice service. Brakes, oil filter, oil , spark plug, an all adjustments. Thats what brought up the idea of changing the air filter, wasnt looking forward to that bit of the service.

[Klay]

Unless the foam is fragmented, there is no need to replace the filter. You should soak the filter in kerosene, not soap and water. Then squeeze out the kerosene in a rag. Soak the filter in oil and again squeeze out the excess in a rag.