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Old 05-28-2010, 03:01 PM   #2626
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
Oddometer: 99,250
California. Aha! Yes, that's a California-only emissions thing...not on my bike.
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Old 05-28-2010, 04:15 PM   #2627
Conman
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Location: Long Island, New York
Oddometer: 127
Tires Pirelli MT-21 mounted

Thanks for all the suggestions on tires but I went out on a limb and went with the Pirelli MT-21 tires front and rear. A 90/10 Off/On rated tire. They had good reviews for other thumpers so I figure I try them since I was looking for an aggressive off-road tire that was still DOT. So far on my very short street ride, I did not feel it was any worse than the stock trailwings. Braking I could tell the rear will lock easier but front feels just as good as the stock tire was. I can't remember the last time I road on a wet road so I can't comment before or after on wet road traction.

I picked front 80/90-21 and rear 120/80-18. Both tires were larger than stock even though on paper they should have been about the same to stock.

Front weigh about 1lb. more than stock and rear 2.5lb so the 4lb. saved on the FMF muffler helped. There is a 110/80-18 which I would get next time and it's 5bucks cheaper.


Front tires:


Rear Tires:


Rear Mounted:


Front Mounted:



http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:15 PM   #2628
planemanx15
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Laugh

Question about the valve issue being discussed... Does the 200 usually have a ticking sound coming from the valve area? I have a sound right now and don't know if it's normal or I should open it all up and check the measurements.
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:37 PM   #2629
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15
Question about the valve issue being discussed... Does the 200 usually have a ticking sound coming from the valve area? I have a sound right now and don't know if it's normal or I should open it all up and check the measurements.

A clacky valve is a happy valve. Normally you run a risk with a valve when they get too tight, and they're quiet then.

Check them anyway, because it's so easy. But if the valves were seriously out of adjustment, the bike would start running bad and would start stalling at idle.
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:23 PM   #2630
bburnette21
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Location: Overton County, Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
A clacky valve is a happy valve. Normally you run a risk with a valve when they get too tight, and they're quiet then.

Check them anyway, because it's so easy. But if the valves were seriously out of adjustment, the bike would start running bad and would start stalling at idle.

I have that same sound... That is why I was going to check my valves.. Is this normal???
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:37 PM   #2631
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bburnette21
I have that same sound... That is why I was going to check my valves.. Is this normal???
A little noise is normal. But check anyway.
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:38 PM   #2632
bburnette21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
A little noise is normal. But check anyway.
Yea
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:27 PM   #2633
planemanx15
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Thanks guys... I'll open her up tomorrow since it's supposted to rain the better part of the day :(
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:34 PM   #2634
mrchristian
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Location: LA, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac66
Is a 99 street legal, one owner DR200 in excellent condition with just over 1K miles on it worth $1500? Anything to look out for?

Somebody school me on the DR200. Don't know anything about them and don't have time to go through 100+ pages of this forum.

I have a DRZ400s but have been thinking about getting something smaller for trail riding. Just saw this one for sale
I haven't ridden a DRz, but have done some trail riding on XR400's and CRF450's. I can't really think of a situation where the DR200SE is better. The suspension becomes downright suicidal on anything remotely rough. Too soft with no rebound and its not full sized so its difficult to stand up.

The 200 is a good commuter/slow backroads bike, but a good trail bike it is not. Fine if you want to tool around at your own pace and costs nothing to run. Just don't want you to be disappointed coming off a (much) more modern bike.

mrchristian screwed with this post 05-28-2010 at 10:11 PM
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Old 05-29-2010, 01:15 PM   #2635
dduelin
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Location: Shaft City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac66
Is a 99 street legal, one owner DR200 in excellent condition with just over 1K miles on it worth $1500? Anything to look out for?

Somebody school me on the DR200. Don't know anything about them and don't have time to go through 100+ pages of this forum.

I have a DRZ400s but have been thinking about getting something smaller for trail riding. Just saw this one for sale
I ride a DR200 on forest roads and sand trails. It does everything I ask it to do and I am generally fast or faster than my friends on 650's on the sand roads and trails we ride. Of course on pavement or hard clay I am out of steam at 60 mph but how fast do you ride through the woods? For the 30-50 mph stuff it is fine. I am 5'6" 29" inseam 160 lbs and the bike is a little cramped in the footpeg to handlebar grip dimension. Any longer legs and I would have to find some risers or change handlebars to ones with more rise.

These bikes are bulletproof. A potential problem is the vacuum operated fuel petcock. When it fails the air cleaner box fills with fuel then it leaks out of the carb/air cleaner boot. Suzuki wanted $90+ for OEM but a Yahama one bolts right up for less than $20. I paid $1100 for a 96 in VGC 3300 miles.

That all said, the 400 is only about 40 lbs more and 5" taller. Where are you and want to trade?
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Old 05-31-2010, 03:47 PM   #2636
alvycolt45
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Location: I-80 Nevada-Utah border
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Question rear axle

New guy here but see lots of dr200 owners. I'm adjusting the chain on my '98 dr200. Any advice on how to tighten the rear axle? Can the nut be be too tight? Should the nut/axle be able to still rotate? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-31-2010, 04:25 PM   #2637
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvycolt45
New guy here but see lots of dr200 owners. I'm adjusting the chain on my '98 dr200. Any advice on how to tighten the rear axle? Can the nut be be too tight? Should the nut/axle be able to still rotate? Thanks in advance.

The service manual says the rear axle nut should be tightened to 47 foot-pounds of torque. That's "pretty darn tight" in backyard mechanic-speak. Usually the axle stops turning by itself when you tighten the axle nut, but I suppose it's possible you might have to hold it with a wrench on the other side.

Remember to leave the chain on the "loose" side of things.
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:56 PM   #2638
aaron_mx
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Durango, Mex
Oddometer: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
The service manual says the rear axle nut should be tightened to 47 foot-pounds of torque. That's "pretty darn tight" in backyard mechanic-speak. Usually the axle stops turning by itself when you tighten the axle nut, but I suppose it's possible you might have to hold it with a wrench on the other side.

Remember to leave the chain on the "loose" side of things.
Sorry, I'm from Mexico and don't speak english really good. I also have a DR200 and have the same alvycolt45's question. But I'm not sure of the meaning of "pretty darn tight". Is darn to tight strong?
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:06 PM   #2639
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_mx
Sorry, I'm from Mexico and don't speak english really good. I also have a DR200 and have the same alvycolt45's question. But I'm not sure of the meaning of "pretty darn tight". Is darn to tight strong?
There's no way to translate that exactly. Don't worry about it too much...just tighten it down good...the bike isn't very sensitive to axle nut tightness.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:41 PM   #2640
aaron_mx
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Location: Durango, Mex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
There's no way to translate that exactly. Don't worry about it too much...just tighten it down good...the bike isn't very sensitive to axle nut tightness.
Thanks Klay!
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