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Old 06-22-2010, 07:56 AM   #2716
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conman
Rode the rest of the day and it felt strange. Lever is a little bent forward as well. Will keep it as a trail spare. Was not a very fast moving tip over but fast enough to push in my hand guards and snapped the lever. Wonder how bent it would have got without guards. When I bought the guards, I figure I would never need the metal reinforced versions.... guess I was wrong.
I'd just file/grind the end smooth and use it. Replaced my clutch lever on my DR650 with a generic "shorty" lever that is about the same length as yours ended up and I prefer it, except in tight technical riding with lots of clutch work, it can get tiring as compared to a regular length lever, but I don't ride much tight technical stuff so it's a good.
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Old 06-22-2010, 01:49 PM   #2717
awanderingemma
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Location: In limbo, Minnesota
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Question regarding my 2002 Suzuki DR200se

Hello,

I have two DR200's (a 98 and an 02) I haven't ridden the 02 for a couple months, I went out to start it yesterday, she turned over for 5 seconds, then completely went dead--like it popped some main fuse or something. Now I turn the key on--nothing, no dash lights, nothing. I charged the battery, even put a know good battery from the 98 into it--nothing.

It's as if she was hit by lightening or something.

Any ideas? Is there a main fuse somewhere? I really should root out a good manual for these bikes since I plan to own them forever.

Thanks,
Brenton
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:14 PM   #2718
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awanderingemma
Any ideas? Is there a main fuse somewhere? I really should root out a good manual for these bikes since I plan to own them forever.
Yes, behind one of the sidecovers or the seat. Don't remember which. You'll see it.
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:35 PM   #2719
awanderingemma
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ha! I solved the problem. It was TWO completely dead batteries in a row (that ol trick) I pulled the one out of my XRL and she fired right up. No worries. Off to buy a couple of batteries.

Thanks!
Brenton
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:50 AM   #2720
bross
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Adjusted the valves on Jodie's 200 yesterday and it starts a lot easier now. It's always been kind of a cold blooded little thing, but fired right up when I was done. Both were slightly tight and adjusted to the loose end of spec 0.13mm.
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:14 PM   #2721
miniroot
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
Adjusted the valves on Jodie's 200 yesterday and it starts a lot easier now. It's always been kind of a cold blooded little thing, but fired right up when I was done. Both were slightly tight and adjusted to the loose end of spec 0.13mm.
You planning to check them again after a few hundred miles? Tight tappets can be a bad omen.
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:41 PM   #2722
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniroot
You planning to check them again after a few hundred miles? Tight tappets can be a bad omen.
I will now. Thanks. An omen for what? The bike only has 5000kms on it so first time I've checked them. Took it in to the dealer for it's first service and they are supposed to check the valves and it was checked off as done, but they may have skipped it.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:38 PM   #2723
K44rll
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Few pictures of the DF200 out in Wales...







Karl
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:23 PM   #2724
Kees
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finally running better!

Hey Guys! I think I finally figured out why my 200 was running so rich all the time. It was fouling the plug, getting poor mileage, idling poorly and generally not fun to ride. I tried putting in a smaller pilot jet, adjusted the float properly and put the idle mixture screw 1.5 turns out from the seated position. Now the bike runs 10 times better, idles flawlessly and gets 20 percent better fuel economy. I've checked the plug and it is only light brown now instead of oily and black. Just one quick question. I've noticed that when I give a quick twist of the throttle from idle, sometimes the bike will stall. Is this an indication that I should fine-tune the idle mixture screw or anything else? Also, what is the "pilot air jet" for and should this be changed in tandem with the "pilot jet"? The pilot jet is located in the bottom of the carb next to the main jet and the "pilot air jet" is located in the top of the carb next to the slide. Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:29 PM   #2725
miniroot
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
I will now. Thanks. An omen for what? The bike only has 5000kms on it so first time I've checked them. Took it in to the dealer for it's first service and they are supposed to check the valves and it was checked off as done, but they may have skipped it.
Yeah, don't stress it, just check it again in a while. If it's the first time you've adjusted them, count on it not having been done right last time.

;)

I had an air-cooled VW (one of many) that the #3 inlet valve got tight on, and it was getting tight because the valve seat was receding into the head. I noticed, but took no notice, and it failed messily a couple of weeks later. Luckily I could just pull the HT lead and limp home on three cylinders.

So now I put a note in my workshop manual when I adjust them, and I check them again a week later.
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:26 PM   #2726
ebrabaek
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Location: El Paso,NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
Hey Guys! I think I finally figured out why my 200 was running so rich all the time. It was fouling the plug, getting poor mileage, idling poorly and generally not fun to ride. I tried putting in a smaller pilot jet, adjusted the float properly and put the idle mixture screw 1.5 turns out from the seated position. Now the bike runs 10 times better, idles flawlessly and gets 20 percent better fuel economy. I've checked the plug and it is only light brown now instead of oily and black. Just one quick question. I've noticed that when I give a quick twist of the throttle from idle, sometimes the bike will stall. Is this an indication that I should fine-tune the idle mixture screw or anything else? Also, what is the "pilot air jet" for and should this be changed in tandem with the "pilot jet"? The pilot jet is located in the bottom of the carb next to the main jet and the "pilot air jet" is located in the top of the carb next to the slide. Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have.
It stalls because you are too lean from idle. You are mostly masking other issues with the new PJ. From Idle to 1/4 throttle.....you are on a mix of the Fuelscrew and PJ......1/4 to 7/8.....You are on the needle circuit..... Then 7/8 to wot.....MJ. A few pages back....I posted how to tune your carb....... Take a look at that post......Make sure the PJ is clear.......It has a very little orfice.....and pluggs up easy......But when it stalls......from idle....9 of 10 times....it`s the PJ..... Post back with the results.....so we can help...


Erling
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:47 PM   #2727
Kees
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Thanks Erling

Today, I put in a 35 pilot air jet instead of the 50 that was in there and I also turned out the fuel screw from 1.5 to 2 turns. As long as I let the bike warm up properly, it doesn't stall anymore.

I purchased this bike from a dealership with only about 200 miles on it. I bought it in 2009 but it was a 2001 model. I could tell that the previous owner had been in the carb a few times and I don't know what he changed or didn't change. The jet combination that I have in the bike currently is from a used carb that I bought, but it seems to be working well. Spark plug is light brown in colour. From what I've read, this is desirable.

I weigh 200 plus pounds with my backpack and the bike seems to have no trouble getting me up to 60mph (as long as I'm not going uphill or into a strong headwind). Would it be fair to say that the bike is now running as it should?
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:08 AM   #2728
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
Today, I put in a 35 pilot air jet instead of the 50 that was in there and I also turned out the fuel screw from 1.5 to 2 turns. As long as I let the bike warm up properly, it doesn't stall anymore.

I purchased this bike from a dealership with only about 200 miles on it. I bought it in 2009 but it was a 2001 model. I could tell that the previous owner had been in the carb a few times and I don't know what he changed or didn't change. The jet combination that I have in the bike currently is from a used carb that I bought, but it seems to be working well. Spark plug is light brown in colour. From what I've read, this is desirable.

I weigh 200 plus pounds with my backpack and the bike seems to have no trouble getting me up to 60mph (as long as I'm not going uphill or into a strong headwind). Would it be fair to say that the bike is now running as it should?
I would say it's running properly now. Spark plug condition is your best indicator of proper tuning. Here's some info on reading plugs I keep around...


It makes a big difference when the plug reading is taken.
"
While jetting carburetors, place a piece of tape on the throttle housing. Place another piece of tape on the throttle grip and draw a line (while the throttle is at idle) straight across from one piece of tape to the other. When these two lines are lined up, the engine will be idling. Now open the throttle to full throttle and draw another line directly across from it on the throttle housing. At this point, there should be two lines on the throttle housing, and one on the throttle grip. Now find the half-way point between both of the lines on the throttle housing. Make a mark and this will show when the throttle is at half throttle. Divide the spaces up even again until idle, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full throttle positions are known. These lines will be used to quickly find the exact throttle opening while jetting.

Clean the air filter and warm the bike up. Accelerate through the gears until the throttle is at full throttle (a slight uphill is the best place for this). After a few seconds of full throttle running, quickly pull in the clutch and stop the engine (Do not allow the engine to idle or coast to a stop). Remove the spark plug and look at its color. It should be a light tan color. If it's white, the air/fuel mixture is too lean and a bigger main jet will have to be installed. If it's black or dark brown, the air/fuel mixture is too rich and a smaller main jet will have to be installed. While changing jets, change them one size at a time, test run after each change, and look at the plug color after each run.
After the main jet has been set, run the bike at half throttle and check the plug color. If it's white, lower the clip on the jet needle to richen the air/fuel mixture. If it's dark brown or black, raise the clip to lean the air/fuel mixture.
The pilot circuit can be adjusted while the bike is idling and then test run. If the engine is running poorly just off of idle, the pilot jet screw can be turned in or out to change the air-fuel mixture. If the screw is in the back of the carburetor, screwing it out will lean the mixture while screwing it in will richen it. If the adjustment screw is in the front of the carburetor, it will be the opposite. If turning the screw between one and two and a half doesn't have any affect, the pilot jet will have to be replaced with either a larger or smaller one. While adjusting the pilot screw, turn it 1/4 turn at a time and test run the bike between adjustments. Adjust the pilot circuit until the motorcycle runs cleanly off of idle with no hesitations or bogs.

I also weigh 200 and Jodie's DR200 will get me to 100km/h without much left, but any hill or head wind and I'm lucky to hit 80-90km/h. I'm fortunate, I have a decently long hill to climb to the top of my driveway, where I can stop the motor, then turn into my driveway and coast downhill all the way into my shop where I can pull my plug.
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:03 AM   #2729
Birdmove
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Location: Keaau, Hawaii
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What speed can a stock DR200 comfortably cruise at? 50 mph??
Thanks, Jon.
(doing research for my next dual sport bike already)
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:49 AM   #2730
ebrabaek
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: El Paso,NM
Oddometer: 4,341
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
Today, I put in a 35 pilot air jet instead of the 50 that was in there and I also turned out the fuel screw from 1.5 to 2 turns. As long as I let the bike warm up properly, it doesn't stall anymore.

I purchased this bike from a dealership with only about 200 miles on it. I bought it in 2009 but it was a 2001 model. I could tell that the previous owner had been in the carb a few times and I don't know what he changed or didn't change. The jet combination that I have in the bike currently is from a used carb that I bought, but it seems to be working well. Spark plug is light brown in colour. From what I've read, this is desirable.

I weigh 200 plus pounds with my backpack and the bike seems to have no trouble getting me up to 60mph (as long as I'm not going uphill or into a strong headwind). Would it be fair to say that the bike is now running as it should?
Awesome............. As long as the bike behaves.......no surging..... stalling.....etc..... I`d venture out and say yes....... One thing to note..... You mentioned you went from a 50 PJ to a 30......that would indicate that you went leaner..... UNLESS.....the jets were mixed brand. You see.... Stock jets from either mikuni or Keihnen..... ( two major Japanese carb suppliers) have their ensignia stamped in them...... Then there is aftermarket jet kits from say James dean....Dynojet...... They have their own numbers..... Which is confusing..... Because the numbers dont match.... Ie.... a stock 32 mikuni needle could be the same as a Dynojet 25.... You follow??? So that could be the reason for the numbers......Main thing is..... Fuel screw is 1-3 turns.....Check...... Engine behaves good.....Check...... Your there......

Side note...... I agree with the above method of checking/tuning the carb.....with the exception of plug reading. With modern fuels and their additives.......it is near impossible to conclude a run condition based on plug color/condition, since said fuels burn/combustion characteristics varies greatly.... I don`t mean to start a debate on this....but merely to state my opinion.
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