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Old 09-21-2012, 11:17 AM   #6046
Conman
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Location: Long Island, New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCanoe View Post
What was your end result? More power? More speed? Better MPG?
For me, the jet kit helped with cold start up of the bike. What could have taken me a minute to start, now starts in seconds. Choke warm up time is seconds not minutes too. Seat of the pants there is more "power" but remember where we are starting at HP-wise so the gains was way less compared to my 2-stroke when re-jetted and piped. As for more speed and MPG, I can't give credible feedback as I made other changes(bigger heavier tires making the speedo inaccurate) and the bike usage changed(mostly off-road) so my MPG is lower than when it was a street only bike. I ride the bike more now but way less on the street so the changes made it a better trail bike for me.

Minus the cold start advantages, there is not much value if street only riding. Trail riding, I feel the richer jetting helped stay in a taller gear and lug instead of shifting down or bog.
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:22 AM   #6047
d.burbach
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It's not mine, it's a rental, but it was a fun little bike!
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:32 AM   #6048
Conman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauls2ndblessing View Post
Hey guys,

Had a little spill last night, probably between 10-20mph in a grass field fortunately. When I pulled the bike up a few things were bent: clutch handle, gear shift lever, rear turn signal... no biggie will fix those with no problem. When I straightened my bars, my front tire was angled way to the right, was able to straighten it by holding the tire with my knees and bowing up on the bars. It's better but I'd like to true it up. What should my process be on that, is it just the 2 bolts I need to loosen on the clamps on the outer triple beams? If not what else do I need to loosen to make the adjustment easier on myself?

Also flattened my rear tire, no splits so I'm guessing the tube is popped. I'm fine with it because I needed new rubbers anyway. So when I order my shinko's what are some good tubes to get? I'm hoping to get these ordered today, so any help would be much appreciated!
Are your bars bent or the forks? If the bars, I would suggest getting a replacement as you could probably bend it back close, but never back to normal. Kids 50cc bars are bent and no matter what I try, I can't bend it back perfectly straight.

As for tubes, I've gone to Kenda heavy duty tubes but I use my bike just about off road only. I don't get past 60 much any more so can't comment if it will vibrate more at those speeds. Did not recall them tough to install on the DR, but on my kids smaller wheels, the tubes were way harder to install because of the bulk.

Con
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:15 PM   #6049
Pauls2ndblessing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conman View Post
Are your bars bent or the forks? If the bars, I would suggest getting a replacement as you could probably bend it back close, but never back to normal. Kids 50cc bars are bent and no matter what I try, I can't bend it back perfectly straight.

As for tubes, I've gone to Kenda heavy duty tubes but I use my bike just about off road only. I don't get past 60 much any more so can't comment if it will vibrate more at those speeds. Did not recall them tough to install on the DR, but on my kids smaller wheels, the tubes were way harder to install because of the bulk.

Con
Hey man,

Fortunately the bars are not bent, it had to do with the triple beam supports, I found some post about loosening the 4 bolts on each side of the triple while the bike is off the ground, centering and tightening. I was able to get it just about straight by holding the wheel with my knees and forcing the triple back to center(just man-handling the bars).

Read that banging it against a tree will work as well

Yeah I just had a local dealer give me the same price on the shinko 244's as motorcycle-superstore (the local dealer is a licensed installer for them) they ordered some tubes as well. I should be back up and running mid-week. That gives me some time to get the bike cleaned up, the few smaller bent items straightened, and have a beer
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:31 PM   #6050
acif
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gear shift shaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by earl34 View Post
Hi
I've been following this thread for a while but this is my first post.
I have a 1989 DR200 with a snapped gear shift shaft.
It's snapped at the point were the lever retaining bolt would sit, so only half the splines are present.
Has anyone replaced a shaft?
Can it be replaced without splitting the cases? (from the clutch side perhaps).
Any advice appreciated.
YES, it can be replaced without spitting, the cases.

page 48

http://es.scribd.com/doc/40540261/DR-200-Owners-Manual
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:33 PM   #6051
acif
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front fork straighten

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauls2ndblessing View Post
Hey guys,

Had a little spill last night, probably between 10-20mph in a grass field fortunately. When I pulled the bike up a few things were bent: clutch handle, gear shift lever, rear turn signal... no biggie will fix those with no problem. When I straightened my bars, my front tire was angled way to the right, was able to straighten it by holding the tire with my knees and bowing up on the bars. It's better but I'd like to true it up. What should my process be on that, is it just the 2 bolts I need to loosen on the clamps on the outer triple beams? If not what else do I need to loosen to make the adjustment easier on myself?
break loose the pinch bolts and straighten the whole assembly like you did before.
re-tighten the bolts.
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:39 PM   #6052
acif
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brake caliper cleaning

Quote:
Originally Posted by AKohler883 View Post
My front brake had been randomly seizing up after riding for a short time.
It was like it got hot, and eventually would not release the pads from the brake disk on the wheel.
I looked at the fluid and it was dirty, so I flushed it all out and filled with new fluid.
Now I can not get any pressure in it at all.
Trying to bleed it. Pump the brake lever, and it does Nothing. Never gets tight.
In fact, I can have the bleeder valve wide open now, and the fluid does not even come out.
It is like I am not even pulling the brake lever.
What could be wrong ??
It worked before I let the old fluid out.
dismount the brake caliper and clean the inside. specially the hole of the purge bolt

page 108

http://es.scribd.com/doc/40540261/DR-200-Owners-Manual
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:20 AM   #6053
Pauls2ndblessing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acif View Post
break loose the pinch bolts and straighten the whole assembly like you did before.
re-tighten the bolts.
Thank you kind sir, I found an article yesterday evening about it. I appreciate your reply and wisdom and apologize for being such a newb, not many of local friends ride bikes, mostly quads, they really don't run into this problem much ha :)
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:45 AM   #6054
ADVCoop
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Location: Acme, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acif View Post
break loose the pinch bolts and straighten the whole assembly like you did before.
re-tighten the bolts.
Sometimes you have to loosen the center nut too. But I have done this many times on bikes over the last 30 years of riding.
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:19 AM   #6055
Wallrat
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Location: Orange County, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauls2ndblessing View Post
Thank you kind sir, I found an article yesterday evening about it. I appreciate your reply and wisdom and apologize for being such a newb, not many of local friends ride bikes, mostly quads, they really don't run into this problem much ha :)

We all started there.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:35 AM   #6056
Pauls2ndblessing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
We all started there.
Cheers to that, I am learning a lot though, glad I have this board for help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVCoop View Post
Sometimes you have to loosen the center nut too. But I have done this many times on bikes over the last 30 years of riding.
Ha yeah I have a feeling it won't be my last time :) Thanks for the reply man
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:58 AM   #6057
SlowRide13
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Location: Lakemont, Georgia, USA
Oddometer: 1,336
stator question

Hey gang,
I tried to search this on my own, but the stuff I found was talking about the use of multiple electrical components. Can someone tell me what to expect if I hook up just an electric jacket to a stock 2000 DR200?
Many thanks,
Pete
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:39 AM   #6058
Wallrat
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Most likely a dead battery, no lights, and a not very warm jacket lol. I've never looked at the heated clothing specifically but heating elements in general pull a lot of juice. Until you get into you're big adventure or touring bikes, stock stators usually just barely have enough to meet the stock electrical requirements of the bike. If you wanted to power a gps or iphone I'd say sure, you should be fine. Anything with any sort of significant electrical draw usually is going to require a new/rewound stator.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:03 PM   #6059
acif
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power output

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowRide13 View Post
Hey gang,
I tried to search this on my own, but the stuff I found was talking about the use of multiple electrical components. Can someone tell me what to expect if I hook up just an electric jacket to a stock 2000 DR200?
Many thanks,
Pete
150 W at 5000 rpm - 55 W (headlight) - 5 W (tail light) - 3.4 W (speedmeter) = 86.6 W (free)
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:22 PM   #6060
Wallrat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acif View Post
150 W at 5000 rpm - 55 W (headlight) - 5 W (tail light) - 3.4 W (speedmeter) = 86.6 W (free)

Haven't really looked into the electrical on the DR yet. Is the ignition on a separate circuit?
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