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Old 10-19-2012, 09:44 AM   #6121
bross
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Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
When you say the Shorai acted up, can you elaborate?
I had one in my CBF1000 and it barely started the bike on cold mornings. We were in Arizona last winter and on any morning below 60F my bike wouldn't start. I knew about cold starting and would try to warm the battery up internally by turning the key on and letting it sit with the lights on for 3-5 minutes before starting. Totally counter intuitive but Shorai's recommendation for cold starts. After 5-10 attempts and just when I was good and mad and ready to pull the seat off and boost the F-n thing, it would finally catch and fire. That's Shorai No. 1.

Shorai No. 2 went into Jodie's DR200 and has been working fine for a year but twice on rides we've stopped for a break and her bike has been totally dead, no lights no nothing. Bump start it and it is then fine for the remainder of the ride. Battery terminals are tight, no loose connections. We were heading out for a 4 day dual sport ride and didn't want to worry about the battery so just replaced it with a regular lead acid. I won't use a Lithium Iron battery anymore, maybe in a few years but not now.

Good read on the new batteries here and I respect this guys opinion. Gets very technical at times but I found it interesting. Cliff's notes version is he wouldn't recommend the LiFePo4 batteries for "adventure riding".
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364

bross screwed with this post 10-19-2012 at 10:06 AM
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:06 AM   #6122
Wallrat
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I put a Ballistic in the DR back in June and its held a charge w/out a tender despite only being started maybe 6 or 5 times. Will be interesting to see if it starts acting up once it cools off.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:33 PM   #6123
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
I put a Ballistic in the DR back in June and its held a charge w/out a tender despite only being started maybe 6 or 5 times. Will be interesting to see if it starts acting up once it cools off.
May be better in the little DR, it's a lot easier to crank over than my 1000cc Honda was. Shorai have since changed their recommendation to a much bigger battery for the CBF1000. My biggest concern with the Shorai in Jodie's DR was that it appeared to be completely dead, several times and yet only 20-30 minutes later would be absolutely fine.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:13 PM   #6124
thesurvivalist
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Does the fmf exhaust noticeably increase midrange acceleration and top end speed (without the kientech md)?

Also what
is the most comfy aftermarket seat available?
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:48 PM   #6125
Klay
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Seat Concepts makes a really nice seat. You need to send them the old seat and they'll rebuild it.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:36 PM   #6126
Sateev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesurvivalist View Post
Does the fmf exhaust noticeably increase midrange acceleration and top end speed (without the kientech md)?

Also what
is the most comfy aftermarket seat available?
Nope on the exhaust. You need to provide more gas to match the extra airflow (by proper jetting). It LOOKS slicker, and SOUNDS slicker, but to make the DR light up, Kientech's kit and airbox suggestions, along with careful attention to the needle position are the hot tip.

And ditto Klay on the Seat Concepts seat. Really first class.

Sateev screwed with this post 10-21-2012 at 08:56 PM
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:55 PM   #6127
Sateev
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Vapor Speedo/Tach redux

Some may remember my installation of a TrailTech Vapor speedometer/tachometer on my DR200, after I failed many attempts to fix my sticky stock speedo:



I had trouble getting the tach to work properly, and just kind of left it disconnected. (You can see the numbers starting at the lower left and curving around to the upper right, ending at 10(thousand) RPM)

After searching around the huge number of posts on many forums about the Vapor, I came across a post by a guy who contacted the factory, and was told to put a 600K ohm resistor in series with the signal lead for the tach (which connects to the smaller of the two coil wires and the coil mounting screw). Today was valve clearance checking day, so while I had everything apart, I connected the tach with my newly fabbed sensor harness (with 600K ohm resistor).

Valves were still right on, put everything back together, and fired it up. Tach came right up, idling at 1080-1120 RPM, and during my test ride, indicated smoothly all the way up to 9000 RPM, which was as high as I went out of respect for my neighbors, and out of self-preservation, as it was rush hour, even in the little alleys around my house.

Very nice to have this indication. In the next couple of days, I'll program the shift light and over-rev indicators on the Vapor, as soon as I determine what they should be...

For anyone with a bad stock speedo, the Vapor kit can be had for about $100. You'll need a mount to relocate your ignition switch. Simpler brackets than mine can be fabbed up easily for the speedo, and there are many ign switch mounts available at the usual accessory houses. I still have a couple of the brackets I had made, if you're bent on doing it fancy, but shipping from Thailand is either slow or expensive. PM me if you are interested.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:27 PM   #6128
Sateev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
...
Good read on the new batteries here and I respect this guys opinion. Gets very technical at times but I found it interesting. Cliff's notes version is he wouldn't recommend the LiFePo4 batteries for "adventure riding".
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770364
That's the Cliff's notes version that the kid who flunked out read.... :)

Actually, if you read the whole thread (and survive), he ends up saying that he really likes the Antigravity LiFePO4 batteries, and HATES the Shorai, based on construction AND performance. He also says he will install one on his own adventure bike...

I really respect his methodology, and his fact-based approach, and would take his recommendation seriously.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:15 AM   #6129
Wallrat
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Good info on that Vapor Sateev. I'll eventually put one on the wife's DR when I get around to that aspect of removing weight. Nice to know of a solution if I have tach issues.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:29 AM   #6130
Sateev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acif View Post
wiseco high compression pistons for the lt230 quad, bumps the compression to 10.2 in the dr200.
Are you sure? I thought there were valve to piston clearance issues..
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:40 AM   #6131
Birdmove
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I had subscribed to this thread for a long time, but for a while there it looked like Suzuki had dropped the DR200. Now it's back in the lineup for the USA. That is good news to me. The Suzuki website shows msrp at $4199. I like the RD200's simplicity, huge gas tank (for a 200), and the fact that it's been made since what--1980? But there is a new player on the block now. The Honda CRL250F.
I still like the DR. There is a Suzuki dealer in Hilo, about 14 miles away, while the nearest Hond/Kawasaki/Yamaha dealer is in Kona 125 miles from my house.
Now that this bike is back I'm resubscribed.

Jon in Keaau, Hawaii
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:40 AM   #6132
BigCanoe
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Ya, at that price it must be about $1000 profit in it for them :)
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:08 AM   #6133
JayGoldstein
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdmove View Post
The Suzuki website shows msrp at $4199. I like the RD200's simplicity, huge gas tank (for a 200), and the fact that it's been made since what--1980? But there is a new player on the block now. The Honda CRL250F
Jon in Keaau, Hawaii
The DR200SE has been available in Canada for many years. I bought an unsold 2009 model this spring and put on a trouble-free 2,860 km (1,775 mi.) this riding season.

As you pointed out, the DR has almost twice the fuel capacity of the CRL250F (13L vs 7.7L). I like setting off for a ride knowing that I can go about 300 km (190 mi) before having to switch to reserve, and then can go another 50 km+ on reserve without running dry. The fact that the DR is lighter (by about 40 lbs) and has a lower seat height (by about 2.5") than the Honda also are big pluses for me as an older rider.

I'm sure the Honda's greater power would be an advantage on the highway, but having to stop to refuel about twice as often would be a nuisance (again, for me).
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:00 PM   #6134
road_warrior64
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Shorty Clutch Lever?

Can anyone recommend a shorty clutch lever for the DR200SE? The one I ordered is 7.5" from end to end. It looks long and is about 1/2" longer than the brake lever. I've read that "shorty" levers are about 1/2" shorter than stock but Ebay listing continue to show "not compatible with your bike". It looks like a fairly generic part. Any information or part numbers would be appreciated. Thanks!

John
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:50 PM   #6135
PPCLI-Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
I keep saying this but it keeps coming up in this thread. If you're ever riding the little DR and think "I just wish this had more oomph for offroad", the DR650 is the last bike you should be looking at. Its underpowered and overweight - a tragically bad combo when offroad. I'd put it in the same class as the KLR650 - fine for cross country highway riding with some fire roads mixed in, but an absolute bear if you hit even mildly technical terrain.
I hate to stop and Poop on someone in another thread but as I am mentoring a new rider and his DR 200 I will. The power to weight combo are at a OK level

KLR650 - 42.15HP // 432 lbs // 10.25 lbs per HP
DR650 - 43HP // 357 lbs // 8.30 lbs per HP
XR650L - 41.5HP // 348 lbs // 8.39 lbs per HP
XR650R - 61.2HP // 304 lbs // 4.97 lbs per HP Wish my DR had # like that!

and just for grins

DR200SE - 15HP // 249lbs // 16.6 lbs per HP
My ride is a DR 650 a 2011, within 2 months of purchasing it I had already taken it through a trails / tight enduro track. The re was nothing else near that size or weight. While It may be heavy it also has TORQUE by the bucket load that the DR 200 doesn't have.Not saying its numbers are bad just that there is no comparing the 2 . I happened to be just starting back into getting a bike dirty after 12 + yrs of street riding only. The 650 isn't the beast everyone makes it out to be but it does need some help with some spots. These are well known after so many years I wish the factory would fix them. Seat , suspension, are the 2 biggest ones. Life is about choices I think that the 650 vs the 200 comes down to what you intend to do with the bike. I will be farckling the hell out of my 650 out then a REALLY long ride somewhere.

Many riders worldwide will do the same thing I do with the 200 and be happy with it. In the end my friend is happy with his 200 an me with my 650. I am about 1 yr from retirement and don't want to have any issues with my bike. I know I will be riding mine for yrs from now. I would rather have a slightly heavier under stressed bike then a lighter bike that I will have issues with down the road. Both are good but in the end there's always choices. Do I want whiskey or beer . whiskey -Scots, Canadian or Bourbon , BEER- light or normal , name brand or micro brewery ... see what I mean
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