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Old 05-23-2013, 12:38 PM   #6736
Trailrider200
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Originally Posted by cidd View Post
Im going to use a hand held laser type bought one at home depot lastnight for $30 its a riobi. Ill take the readings tonight

won't help, too rich or too lean can both make high EGT, and yes lean is a more common cause but too rich can do it also. EGT is for final the last few HP tunning. plug reading and which is best O2 sensor are the way to go. OR with a fully warmed up bike run it at WOT and a flat rd, does it slow down at WOT from just before WOT too rich, at WOT and back off throttle very slighty one feels a slight acceleration then the MJ is too lean, go up one size or smaller either way. ebay has jets for about $4.
see carb tunning at www.factorypro.com.
just putting a free flowing exhaust on without increasing airflow thru the carb some way, usually doesn't require a mainjet change just fine tunning of the pilot jet and needle.
food for thought OEM bikes in the USA are always tuned rich at WOT to protect the warranty. where they are lean is in the pilot jet circuit for passing EPA testing.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:57 PM   #6737
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Depends on the bike as well. Some bikes come with very restrictive exhausts so swapping it out makes a significant change in airflow. Other bikes the stock exhaust is pretty good but the airbox is killing the power. That's why any mod to either requires a bit of guess n' check on the jetting. A wide open throttle (WOT) plug chop is the single best way to check your main jet and only costs you the amount of a new spark plug. Basically you warm up the bike, shut it down and put in a new plug, then start it and run it as fast as possible up to WOT in top gear. Pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch to coast to a stop. Swap to the old plug to get back to the garage. You want to look at the color at the base of the insulator on the plug (the part behind the threads) so the best way is to take a dremel to the plug and cut off the threaded portion. Black is rich, white or gray is lean. A light tan ring around the base of the insulator is ideal.

Diff bike so ignore the jet sizes:
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Wallrat screwed with this post 05-23-2013 at 02:05 PM
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:50 PM   #6738
Trailrider200
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WR, your hardcore cutting the plugs.

I just use an eye piece with a light source and look down at the fuel ring.
either way it works. I know some and I did one time was to pull the exhaust head pipe and checked the exhaust ports of the heads. actually gave a little better reading than the plugs did.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:46 PM   #6739
mustangwagz
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Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
Just tweaking the fuel screw after adding a new exhaust is an extremely bad idea. These bikes come from the factory on the ragged edge of being too lean. If you increase the air flow through the engine with a new exhaust and don't compensate with increased fuel flow, you're going to be very lean and doing some bad bad things to your engine. The fuel screw is probably not enough for even the bottom end, and you'll need to change the main jet so that you don't run lean 1/4 throttle and above. I'd just run the Kientech jet kit since it comes with everything you need and directions.

That said, it's still not going to do more for you at Ocotillo than make a few hills more doable. An exhaust is only going to get you maybe 20% more power - and that's in the best possible scenario. It's only a 15 HP bike, so you're looking at 3 HP. Would it be noticeably more powerful? Of course, 20% is pretty significant via seat-of-the-pants. But at the end of the day you still only have an 18HP bike that weighs 250lbs. The DR is great for our fire/utility roads in SoCal, but anything beyond that is out of the bike's comfort zone.
+400 on the Keintech info/jetkit.. THem folks know their stuff! Us DR350 riders pretty much worship them. lol

CIDD: So your from Picks-burgh eh? im about an hours NE of ya..oughta make it out this way sometime and do some riding dood! assuming your from PittsburgH pa cuz ya put the H at the end of burgH (only real burgh...cuz its only one with an H) lol

Anyhow, yah..get some jets..the air screw is souley for your idle circuit..wont do nothing once your off the idle circuit and as the post i quoted states..sooner or later...you will burn it up sadly.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:54 AM   #6740
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Yep got the jet kit and there in along with a new exhaust I cant believe what a difference it makes the bike now starts with out the choke and no more backfiring when I get off the throttle . Makes It sounds like a real motorcycle instead of some kid making motorcycle noises with his lips .....pbt.pbt.pbt.pbt.pbt . Its enjoyable to ride now because it doesn't struggle to get to 50mph it does it in 4th gear now no problem and 5th gear became my cruising gear its now the perfect little bike for running around town .
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:37 AM   #6741
BREWING304
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What type of oil is the best to run in these bikes? I know its more of a personal preference thing

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Old 05-25-2013, 11:16 AM   #6742
bross
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What type of oil is the best to run in these bikes? I know its more of a personal preference thing

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Any moto oil 10W40, unless you live in Arizona, then you could run 20W50 in the summer. Personally I run Amsoil 10W40 in all our bikes. Some people swear by Shell's Rotella, it's a diesel oil but just make sure any oil you buy DOES NOT have "Energy Conserving" in the API circle. Those are car oils with friction modifiers that will ruin your wet clutch.

Don't Use this...


But this would be OK


I think the manual states oil to meet Jaso MA, which is a Japanese oil standard so you can just check for that on the bottle as well. It will only be on moto specific oils, not on the Rotella. Castrol GTX is another good inexpensive car oil that has done well in tests. It's also available in 10W40.

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Old 05-25-2013, 01:08 PM   #6743
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Hi guys, new guy here, I have a 2009 dr200. For those interested the dealer has a brand new never sold dr200 for 3 grand plus taxes! (Mine was more, that bastard wouldn't budge on the price for me)

Anyways, I already have 267 km on it, I'm 510 and 225 pounds, the bike is a bit underpowered, I would love to get a 650 something for highway cruising. My kid spends a lot of time riding around my dads place, probably half the mies on it are from him. Great for a break in, no place to go hard on the throttle.

The day I paid for her;

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Old 05-25-2013, 04:04 PM   #6744
Trailrider200
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Originally Posted by BREWING304 View Post
What type of oil is the best to run in these bikes? I know its more of a personal preference thing

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any 15w40 or 5w40 diesel oil. best oil out there. a diesel engine has high shear and a turbo.
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"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:26 PM   #6745
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Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil here.Road bikes Valvoline 20w50 Valvoline 4T fully synthetic.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:27 AM   #6746
T680277
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seized motor

hello every one i just reasanly got my bike blue plated and i was out for a ride and it seized up on me and when i looked down there was droping oil. i lost my oil plug while drive. a couple days later i was runnning up and down the road droping the cluch and the piston broken free. i got a hole new plug and lock washer for it and i plan on lock wireing it on. so my question is, is there a oil out there that will help with the lubercation better (regular, synthedic, diesal oil) or is there a aditive out there that will amp up the oil lubercation thank you.

colin
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:37 AM   #6747
BREWING304
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Does anyone run royal purple? I didn't see and 10/40 in it though.

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Old 05-26-2013, 10:46 AM   #6748
SkiBumBrian
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Just wasting your money pumping expensive synthetics in your bike. The high shear factors on bikes use up a synthetic as fast as any other oil. I have used them and have actually noticed they break down FASTER than Rotella. Save some money and run Rotella T, just change your oil more often. I rarely go 1K miles between changes on my dual sports.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:38 AM   #6749
ben2go
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Originally Posted by BREWING304 View Post
Does anyone run royal purple? I didn't see and 10/40 in it though.

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Don't use RP!It has friction modifiers that will fry a wet clutch in short order.The best I have found is Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil.A gallon will do a few oil changes with top offs.
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:05 PM   #6750
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the manual states oil to meet Jaso MA, which is a Japanese oil standard so you can just check for that on the bottle as well. It will only be on moto specific oils, not on the Rotella.
Rotella T6 meets JASO MA. Been using it for a long time in the DR200, DR650, Goldwing and R1200GS.
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