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Old 07-07-2013, 10:10 AM   #6961
73Mustang
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Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 394
Hey y'all, I just bought a new DR.

Breaking 'er in right now. Only 100 miles so far. Few issues:

(1) When it's cold, the tranny shifting is buttery smooth. But once it is warmed up, it's difficult to shift. Will this problem go away after break-in?

(2) Jets. I'm at sea level--Houston. Thinking about going to Colorado for RMAR. Do I need to buy some smaller jets? Or does the CV carb automatically adjust for altitude?

(3) Tires. I like the stock tires for pavement. What tires should I get for sand/gravel/rocky road?

(4) Is it a bad idea to take the bike to Colorado RMAR before it is broken-in?

(5) Service manual. Where to buy? I need one for do valve adjustment.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:44 AM   #6962
Dorito
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Over the triple bar she goes!

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Old 07-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #6963
suseuser
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Location: Nampa Idaho
Oddometer: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheska View Post
Hi just had a slow right hand turn drop me and the bike. Besides the mirror a
little scratched up the front brake lever got crunched. I cut part off and it works OK but need help locating a cheap replacement. Any help appreciated.
Thanks Bob
I know my local "stealer" had one in stock for the same price as I could find them online. $9
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #6964
suseuser
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Location: Nampa Idaho
Oddometer: 177
Burned nylon on header pipe

My wife just threw her motorcycle cover on the DR while the header pipe was still hot. Now she has a big sticky mess stuck on the pipe. Any idea how to get the mess off? Needless to say the covers are "heat-resistant" not "heat-proof".
Thanks
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:12 PM   #6965
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,473
Quote:
Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
My wife just threw her motorcycle cover on the DR while the header pipe was still hot. Now she has a big sticky mess stuck on the pipe. Any idea how to get the mess off? Needless to say the covers are "heat-resistant" not "heat-proof".
Thanks
Just scrape as much off with an exacto type knife/blade, then you can probably get the rest off with a wire wheel on your drill/dremel.

Harley guys use oven cleaner to get gunk off their chrome pipes but I'd just scrape/grind off the 200 pipes.

That makes a good reminder for your wife to be careful with her rain gear as well.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:08 PM   #6966
JayGoldstein
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Oddometer: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
Only 100 miles so far. Few issues:

(1) When it's cold, the tranny shifting is buttery smooth. But once it is warmed up, it's difficult to shift. Will this problem go away after break-in?
Inconsistent shifting is something I'm still experiencing at 3,400 km (2,100 mi). I've found that a very minor adjustment of the free-play at the clutch lever sometimes helps (at least for little while). Some people have claimed that switching to synthetic or diesel engine oil improves shifting. I have a litre of Shell Rotella 15W-40 diesel oil that I'm going use for the next oil change. If I notice any improvement I'll report it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:25 PM   #6967
Andyinhilo
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Oddometer: 1,642
Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
Hey y'all, I just bought a new DR.

Breaking 'er in right now. Only 100 miles so far. Few issues:

(1) When it's cold, the tranny shifting is buttery smooth. But once it is warmed up, it's difficult to shift. Will this problem go away after break-in?

(2) Jets. I'm at sea level--Houston. Thinking about going to Colorado for RMAR. Do I need to buy some smaller jets? Or does the CV carb automatically adjust for altitude?

(3) Tires. I like the stock tires for pavement. What tires should I get for sand/gravel/rocky road?

(4) Is it a bad idea to take the bike to Colorado RMAR before it is broken-in?

(5) Service manual. Where to buy? I need one for do valve adjustment.
1. When you change the oil first time it should get better. You may also want to check the clutch cable freeplay. If there is too much slack the clutch may be dragging a bit as the clutch discs warm up . Mine shifted best when I used Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic blend.

2. the CV carbs don't automatically adjust, but these bike are lean enough from the factory that it is not a big deal, as long as the altitude change is not too extreme. You will lose power as altitude increases, even with jetting changes, due to less air to burn.

3. For more of an off road tire a knobby like a Dunlop 606 would be best.

4. I don't think that the altitude will have any bad effect on the break-in.

5. The dealer can order a manual, and I see that Amazon has one for the Kindle: http://www.amazon.com/1996-2009-Suzu.../dp/B009D41FS0. You can also try e-Bay.

If you only need to adjust valves, I think that someone has posted the procedure with pics somewhere in this thread. You just need to take the time to find it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:33 PM   #6968
northsouth15
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Joined: Jul 2011
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got my spare rims mounted with knobbies...



heading to a group ride on fire roads next Sunday....then MX track next Friday?

I know it's not built for MX, but since I only do that 1-2 times/year, I can make this 1 bike do it all
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:19 PM   #6969
inuvik
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
1. When you change the oil first time it should get better. You may also want to check the clutch cable freeplay. If there is too much slack the clutch may be dragging a bit as the clutch discs warm up . Mine shifted best when I used Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic blend.

2. the CV carbs don't automatically adjust, but these bike are lean enough from the factory that it is not a big deal, as long as the altitude change is not too extreme. You will lose power as altitude increases, even with jetting changes, due to less air to burn.

3. For more of an off road tire a knobby like a Dunlop 606 would be best.

4. I don't think that the altitude will have any bad effect on the break-in.

5. The dealer can order a manual, and I see that Amazon has one for the Kindle: http://www.amazon.com/1996-2009-Suzu.../dp/B009D41FS0. You can also try e-Bay.

If you only need to adjust valves, I think that someone has posted the procedure with pics somewhere in this thread. You just need to take the time to find it.
I agree check the clutch cable free play. Probably have too much freeplay just like andyinhilo stated. The adjustment is behind the rubber cover on the handlebar. There should only be about 1/3 inch freeplay on the cable. Any more than that then the clutch won't disengage fully when the engine is warm. I switched to synthetics after the second oil change at 1500 miles and it is much better since with buttery smooth shifts all the time.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:38 AM   #6970
73Mustang
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Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 394
Hi. Is it possible the dealership didn't drain the shipping oil and put proper oil in the engine before delivering the bike to me?

Because, compared to my other dirtbike, the oil in the sight glass looks very watery.

The dealership didn't oil the air filter. Could they be so cheap as to not change to shipping oil? Because I got 'em to drop the "prep set".

I'll change the oil as soon as I get home.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JayGoldstein View Post
Inconsistent shifting is something I'm still experiencing at 3,400 km (2,100 mi). I've found that a very minor adjustment of the free-play at the clutch lever sometimes helps (at least for little while). Some people have claimed that switching to synthetic or diesel engine oil improves shifting. I have a litre of Shell Rotella 15W-40 diesel oil that I'm going use for the next oil change. If I notice any improvement I'll report it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
1. When you change the oil first time it should get better. You may also want to check the clutch cable freeplay. If there is too much slack the clutch may be dragging a bit as the clutch discs warm up . Mine shifted best when I used Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic blend.
Quote:
Originally Posted by inuvik View Post
I agree check the clutch cable free play. Probably have too much freeplay just like andyinhilo stated. The adjustment is behind the rubber cover on the handlebar. There should only be about 1/3 inch freeplay on the cable. Any more than that then the clutch won't disengage fully when the engine is warm. I switched to synthetics after the second oil change at 1500 miles and it is much better since with buttery smooth shifts all the time.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:06 AM   #6971
LumberingJack
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Yorkshire
Oddometer: 40
Did the Ryedale Rally this weekend, a round of the All Terrain Rally Challenge championship, but just happens to be less than 30 minute drive from my house so me and a workmate entred, me on the DR 200 and him on his DR 350.

Here's a couple of vids from last year to give an idea of what was in store (sorry no pics or vids from this year yet)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEXcURCsdpI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYQVWNN2D20

It was a lot drier this year and the dust on the gravel roads was awful, but also where it was so dusty it was like trying to ride on marbles ontop of glass - zero grip in places. High speeds combined with thick dust and no grip ended up with at least one guy getting ambulanced away early.

Day one was 150 miles and Day 2 was about 75, made up of 7 hours on the Day 1 and 4.5 hours on Day 2.

Despite there only being abou 10 trail bikes out of the 180odd entry, the little 200 did really quite well, well to begin with anyway.

Didn't have the top speed for the fire roads (some of the top guys were pushng 100mph!) but through the woods was as quick or quicker than some guys on "proper" bikes

Everything went well until the final lap of the special test when I drowned it in the water splash - eventually got it running again with a fresh plug but about 10 mins later it developed a really bad misfire after about half throttle.

Limped it back to the end of the test, drained the carb and cleaned a few connectors and limped back to the start. We only had the 30mile liasion section to do anyway so as far as I know we still counted as finishers

Spent about 4 hours sat night and 3 sun morning trying to cure the misfire to no avail - stripped carb twice, had air filter out, bypassed sidestand swithc and kill switch, stripped and cleaned every ignition connector and earth and even swapped plug caps and HT lead.

So, decided that may as well make the start, even if I didn't get very far - it ran all the way to the end of the course, 4 and a half hours later! It made for some interesting riding, short shifting it to stop it missing and only getting a maximum of 40mph all day but I still managed to sneak past a few others in the woods with a poorly bike, so quite happy with that.

Only real damage was I managed to blow the seals in the shock by maybe pushing it a bit harder than it's designed to be......
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:47 AM   #6972
inuvik
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
Oddometer: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayGoldstein View Post
Inconsistent shifting is something I'm still experiencing at 3,400 km (2,100 mi). I've found that a very minor adjustment of the free-play at the clutch lever sometimes helps (at least for little while). Some people have claimed that switching to synthetic or diesel engine oil improves shifting. I have a litre of Shell Rotella 15W-40 diesel oil that I'm going use for the next oil change. If I notice any improvement I'll report it.
I wouldn't use diesel engine oil or any automotive oil. Make sure that the oil does not have the "starburst" energy saving on it's label. It should say "Meets or exceeds JASO MA standards" on the label.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#JASO
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2005 DR200SE: Ricochet skidplate, Spitfire S-06 Windshield, Suzuki Handguards, Tusk handlebar risers, Cycleracks rear rack, Chase-Harper B-Alaska Bag, DG Performance Exhaust, Tutoro Chain Oiler, Garmin Etrek GPS.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:00 PM   #6973
73Mustang
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The Rotella diesel oil label says JASO MA. Thus, suitable for motorcycle's wet clutches.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:31 PM   #6974
73Mustang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
2. the CV carbs don't automatically adjust, but these bike are lean enough from the factory that it is not a big deal, as long as the altitude change is not too extreme. You will lose power as altitude increases, even with jetting changes, due to less air to burn.
What jet sizes should I bring along? I'm driving 2,400 miles for this Colorado trip. I want to be prepared just in case. I heard Colorado is 14,000 feet above sea level.

I'm at sea level now (Houston). And my bike gets really hot. My friend walked by my bike and said it feels hot like a oven. Maybe it is too lean.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:41 PM   #6975
inuvik
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Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
The Rotella diesel oil label says JASO MA. Thus, suitable for motorcycle's wet clutches.
Right on, that's good to know!
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2005 DR200SE: Ricochet skidplate, Spitfire S-06 Windshield, Suzuki Handguards, Tusk handlebar risers, Cycleracks rear rack, Chase-Harper B-Alaska Bag, DG Performance Exhaust, Tutoro Chain Oiler, Garmin Etrek GPS.
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