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Old 10-22-2008, 11:49 AM   #811
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toobig
Clutch, lever and cable all good. I'm all out of ideas short of a real mechanic. Friend told me about a screw on some bikes to adjust clutch on right side but am at work and unable to check if dr has one.
No screw, the only adjustment is the cable slack.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:59 AM   #812
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Originally Posted by CMS
Klay , will the 200 with gearing change, run 60 to 65 on the highway for commuting, say 60 mile round trip and other longer trips? The other threads seem to support that, but I dont know the crusing speeds others are doing from their trip reports.I'm just about ready to go the 200 route due to it lightness and just all around ,do it all bike. It will fit in my PU truck [Chev S-10] for really long distance trips, and although I love my DRZ400, its still a tad heavy on the trail, but the 200 's weight , great milage, price and simplicity seem to be making a lot of sense. I know you have two of them and seem to be very satisfied , even with the group of new 250s ava now from Yamaha and Kawaskai. You also seem to prefer to ride the 200 over your other 650s, would you buy another [Dr 200] or move on to one of the newer 250s? I've found a brand new 06 leftover for $3600. Just some random thoughts, you, Steve and the others in the great North of Ohio are the gurus of the DR200 and I appriciate your, and the others, knowledge and info. CMS
1+ on what Klay said. I have ridden a new XT 250, and while it is a nice ride, it is not enough of a difference that I would trade my '04 if I had to pay out any money. If you can get a new one for $3600, jump on it. I'm sure the new XT250 will be close to $1,000 more. I also have a DR650, and I find that for around town errands and so forth, I usually hop on the 200. As to commuting, I bought my 200 used from a guy who did a daily 65-70 mile (one way) commute on roads that you gotta do 55-60 to keep from getting run over. It lost a crankshaft seal at 24,000 miles and the motor was repaired (new crank and re-ringed) at that point by the dealer. It now has 37,000 miles and is running well.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:04 PM   #813
Toobig
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Clutch

That's what I thought. Been over that bike, nose to tail and didn't remember seeing anything. Think I'm hosed. Let the pros handle it I got no time right now for clutch kits. Maybe the boy will get inspired. It is his bike, time for a little wrench work on his part.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:07 PM   #814
miniroot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
No screw, the only adjustment is the cable slack.
And the pushrod adjuster, under the clutch cover, which may be what's being referred to.

The service manual suggests that this is set without cables attached, though, so your remaining points of adjustment are:

1) the screw and lock nut on the hand lever
2) the screw and lock nut on the cable, below the steering head
3) alignment of the clutch actuating lever on the splined shaft

The service manual states that option 3) isn't an adjustment point, that the arm should be aligned with an engraved mark on the shaft. However, I've spent the last week dancing a merry dance trying to follow the manual's procedure and am unable to. It's just not possible to align that mark without re-adjusting the pushrod -- there's not enough slack in the cable otherwise.

Having pulled the clutch cover, adjusted the pushrod again and finally got that mark aligned, I'm now having a heck of a time setting the clutch lever position so that it's where I want it when the engine is hot or cold. Back to the way I originally put it together, I think -- ignore the engraved mark on the shaft, reset the pushrod as per manual. It wasn't lined up when I pulled the thing apart anyhow.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:16 PM   #815
Toobig
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Clutch

Messed with all three and no matter where I position them, same result. Really sucks when changing oil can cause so much trauma. Try telling your kid to be responsible and take care of his toys and when he does this happens.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:19 PM   #816
planetmike
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Isn't it 3am there in NZ?

[quote=miniroot]And the pushrod adjuster, under the clutch cover, which may be what's being referred to.

The service manual suggests......[quote]
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:31 PM   #817
miniroot
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Originally Posted by planetmike
Isn't it 3am there in NZ?
I hope not, I'm just about to ride to work!

;)

It's 0831 right now. And windy.
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:45 PM   #818
c5babe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay

P.s. Renazco makes a custom seat for the DR200.

Thanks! The DR200 seat has to be the worst form of torture Suzuki could come up with. I can barely walk after a long ride. My husband went out and got me an Air Hawk (?) and that helps quite a bit, but a comfy seat would be heaven. I'll check out the Renazco.
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:03 PM   #819
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c5babe
Thanks! The DR200 seat has to be the worst form of torture Suzuki could come up with. I can barely walk after a long ride. My husband went out and got me an Air Hawk (?) and that helps quite a bit, but a comfy seat would be heaven. I'll check out the Renazco.
I have a DR200 and a DR650. The 650 seat is at least as bad and probably a bit worse than the 200. Neither are fun for more than a few miles.
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:39 PM   #820
wardie
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DR 200 gearing for 60-65mph

I replaced my rear sprocket from a 45 to a 41. I ran the Lake Erie Loop Cannonball Race practically wide open for the entire 672 miles and drafted some semi's hitting 78.2mph on my GPS. The Dr geared at 15-41 will run 60-62 mph all day even loaded for camping. When you get over 62mph and higher towards 70 it gets buzzier. I spent 12 hours on that DR 200 cruisning around Lake Erie it'll hold up to anything you might want to do. The only differnece with the new gearing is that when approaching longer grades you have to act like a bicyclists... wind it up going down and try and hold speed as long as you can buy constantly down shifting. Even with the longest grades I find I'm almost always shifting down to 4th and on the rare occasion 3rd. Wardie
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:39 PM   #821
kelly007
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I would still double check you put the correct oil in the bike, not sure if he said the clutch was sticking engaged or not engaging fully. if the later you may have used the incorrect oil with maybe some friction mod in it. Just use the oil that the manual said , the one without energy efficent label(or something to that effect), use a bike specific oil as well.
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:28 AM   #822
planetmike
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Actually, other than the labor, the clutch kits for this bike are cheap. I've seen them around $50. It would be a good little winter project for your son, if he's in to it.

This is a very easy 4-stroke bike to work on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toobig
That's what I thought. Been over that bike, nose to tail and didn't remember seeing anything. Think I'm hosed. Let the pros handle it I got no time right now for clutch kits. Maybe the boy will get inspired. It is his bike, time for a little wrench work on his part.
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:36 AM   #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wardie
I replaced my rear sprocket from a 45 to a 41. I ran the Lake Erie Loop Cannonball Race practically wide open for the entire 672 miles and drafted some semi's hitting 78.2mph on my GPS. The Dr geared at 15-41 will run 60-62 mph all day even loaded for camping. When you get over 62mph and higher towards 70 it gets buzzier. I spent 12 hours on that DR 200 cruisning around Lake Erie it'll hold up to anything you might want to do. The only differnece with the new gearing is that when approaching longer grades you have to act like a bicyclists... wind it up going down and try and hold speed as long as you can buy constantly down shifting. Even with the longest grades I find I'm almost always shifting down to 4th and on the rare occasion 3rd. Wardie
I run the same 15/41 on my DRZ 400,I'm glad to hear the 200 has enoungh power for that also. I followed your thread on the race ,outstanding effort CMS
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:52 AM   #824
CMS
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Thumbs down Seat

Quote:
Originally Posted by c5babe
Thanks! The DR200 seat has to be the worst form of torture Suzuki could come up with. I can barely walk after a long ride. My husband went out and got me an Air Hawk (?) and that helps quite a bit, but a comfy seat would be heaven. I'll check out the Renazco.
I have replaced my DRZ 400 seat with a Corbin, Suzuki must have the same seats on all the Duel Sports [what were they thinking] it works very well for me, but I've read and heard really good reports on the Renazco,let us know if you purcase one. CMS
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Old 10-23-2008, 04:21 PM   #825
steve gs
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Here's my my penny's worth.

I have found that when you sit upright your arse and back will eventually scream for relief regardless of the seat.

With a degree of forward lean counterbalanced by your legs you can get an almost weightless arm load and a greatly reduced load through the back down to your arse. Key ingredient here is your seat to peg height vs your inseam. When you have this right you should be able to be in position without loading the bars. Depending on your skeletal specifics, at a certain angle you begin to extend the load to the upper leg as well.

To evaluate ergos; I first try to set my legs at the proper angle and then see where my pelvic points end up (flat dual sport seats are superb for sorting this out, tiered NOT), then it's a matter of where my arms end up.

I just looked at a Wee Strom considering it as a replacement for my sold Dakar. Though it had a gel seat this seat wouldn't work for me. Again, a tiered "bucket" type of seat, YUK! Otherwise, the ergos could be adjusted to suit me.

Also, there is nothing worse than a mushy seat, you need a firm base of support for your pelvis. Women will have a tougher time here with some of the narrow DS seats because of their greater pelvic width.



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