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Old 10-30-2008, 03:12 PM   #841
wdw
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Hand Guards

It may have been mentioned before but I am too lazy to re-read this entire thread, so here goes. What bolt-on hand guards fit the DR200? I don't want to drill anything, or buy new bars. Has anyone tried the Acerbis guards?
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Old 10-30-2008, 07:26 PM   #842
wardie
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Dr 200 Handguards

My 2006 DR 200 is yellow so I purchased a set of Pro Taper yellow hand guards to match. They bolt right onto the stock bars. Wardie
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Old 11-02-2008, 03:42 PM   #843
KORACK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdw
It may have been mentioned before but I am too lazy to re-read this entire thread, so here goes. What bolt-on hand guards fit the DR200? I don't want to drill anything, or buy new bars. Has anyone tried the Acerbis guards?
I use Powermadd gaurds on my DR and they bolt right on.
http://www.powermadd.com/products/st...handguard.html
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:47 PM   #844
CARRERASBAJA
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A little work on the Wheels

I had been running my DR200 all over the place and saw a few spokes were broke. I looked al over for an extra wheel but no luck. I decided tackle replacing the old spoke with new ones. I also wanted to swap my Maxxis IT tires to the original Bridgestone Trailwings. I purchased a set of spokes from my Local dealership. Cost was about 37 dollars. Took a bit but i finally put them on after almost a whole day. Took forever cause I also needed to replace the inner tube to a smaller size, did not find it till I went to 3 diferent shops. Then the removing and replacing the tire was my first time doing that also. I am glad that I did it at home instead of somewhere in the middle of nowhere. now I will know how to do it in the trail. (Thanks to Dansmc.com for the help with the Spokes.)

Now after it was all done I headed to Glamis on Halloween weekend with a few friends. At first I was all over the place and had no feeling of confidence and getting stuck all over , I remembered to air down the tires. Soon after I airdowned, it was all good. I was riding the dunes with no problem. Still happy with my DR200 and now waiting for the Baja 1000 in a few weeks for another ride.













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Old 11-04-2008, 01:13 PM   #845
Klay
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Old 11-04-2008, 01:20 PM   #846
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The brake caliper started sticking, but I managed to get it free in the woods. I'll have to overhaul it.


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Old 11-05-2008, 11:10 PM   #847
FlyingFinn
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It starting to MOVE

To keep this thread alive, to share with other DR200 noobs like myself and to simply write this down at least somewhere, here's what I've done with our "doctor" so far.

After two carb cleanings (soak in a bucket) the bike started to run pretty OK.
Next step was to drill the cap off the idle mixture screw and open that a bit to give the bike more robust idle.

Then I replaced the stock #35 idle jet with a #40 .
That way this bike ran quite well but had two carburetion related issues:

1. The bike was still really fussy about throttle when cold. It needed to be warmed up before it started to accept any throttle opening.
2. Even when fully warm there is slight dead-spot when opening the throttle. Going from off-throttle, or idle, to on-throttle there is a slight feeling of "this thing is running out of gas" before it picks up and goes.

Other than that the bike is a blast. I like taking it to local stores etc. and weekend ADV trips with my lovely girlfriend are now a must. On the freeway she got this thing to 70+ MPH. With stock gearing.
I couldn't believe my eyes following her....



Opening up the idle mixture screw even bit more to about 1.75 turns open from fully closed cured the cold blooded idle. Now the bikes idles without a choke even when cold and starts to accept throttle just seconds after the start.

But no matter what I did with the screw, the dead-spot was always there. Maybe little better, maybe little worse but never gone.

Until I lifted the needle....

The carb is really easy turn on its side. Just loose the two clamps, remove fuel hose and throttle cable and turn the sucker on its side:



...gives a perfect access to the the bowl and the slide.
That picture also shows the new Yamaha Raptor 660 petcock. Cost all $18 and bolts right in. It also has enough "drop" to clear the edge of the gas tank.
Goodbye flooded carb and fuel starvation.

Here's how I lifted the needle.
I took the slide out to measure what size washers I'll need to get to stack under the c-clip. But turned out the plastic spacer that's there already is so tight on the needle there was no need to shim it with washers.
It took good amount of force to slide the the spacer about 1.5mm down the needle, it will stay there just fine with nothing between it and the c-clip.



I still put the c-clip in there for a last-resort safety.

But boy did that cure the throttle response! Now the bike works really well.
Throttle response is perfect and all the hesitation is gone.
Sure, it's still just a small bike but it responds like a motorcycle should!

Next things are new handlebars with handguards, a 16T front sprocket (if I can find one), better footpegs and a luggage rack.

--
Mikko

FlyingFinn screwed with this post 11-05-2008 at 11:30 PM
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Old 11-06-2008, 08:45 AM   #848
planetmike
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Good recount Mikko. I still say and by your photo, the stock needle doesn't have enough taper at the bottom. Doesn't it look more like a nail than a needle jet?
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Old 11-06-2008, 09:20 AM   #849
FlyingFinn
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Very true on that.
I was pretty skeptical a little shimming would even help when it's that "flat", but it did.

I might still get the washers next time I'm at Ace. 7mm OD / 2.8mm ID in case anyone else needs the dimensions.

Does anyone know a source for Mikuni main jets where you can buy just one of each size? All on-line sources I've found sell them in packs of four and I'd rather get an "assortment of four" than four of any one size.

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Old 11-06-2008, 02:25 PM   #850
CessPool
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Very slow throttle response

My wife has a brand, spanking new DR200 now with about 100 miles on the clock. She's a new rider and thinks this is a great bike.

When I ride it I notice that the throttle response is very slow, in other words, when you twist the throttle and then let it go, it takes about 30 seconds or more to fully return to idle. Our KLR650 has immediate throttle response and when you do the same throttle blip, it instantly returns to idle. If I were riding the KLR and were to let go of the throttle, the bike would immediately slow down under engine braking. If I do the same thing with the new DR, it will run on as if I've still got the throttle at the original position for quite some time.

This has the effect of making her sound like a complete noob when shifting. She pulls in the clutch when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, and the engine is revving pretty high until she lets the clutch out again. Just like if you were to hold the throttle wide open between shifts, and not backing off like you should be doing when pulling the clutch in for shifts. Her shifting technique is fine and she sounds normal on the KLR.

Is this normal? I don't think so. I have checked the throttle cable where it connects to the carb and when you blip the throttle the cable seems to be tracking the throttle control accurately but the carb doesn't seem to be returning to idle the way it should. Is this caused by the bike being new and something in the carb just being too tight still or is there something we can do or adjust to get rid of this latency?
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:44 PM   #851
wdw
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Slow Throttle Response

The throttle problem you describe is not normal to a new bike. Since it is a new bike, I would carry it to the dealer I bought it from. This will show you: a) how well he treats his customer after the cash has changed hands, and b) how good his mechanics are.
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:55 PM   #852
FlyingFinn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CessPool
....when you twist the throttle and then let it go, it takes about 30 seconds or more to fully return to idle.
First of, your wif is right. It is a great bike.
Second, that problem sounds like an air leak into the intake or extreme lean idle mixture. These bikes run really lean but it shouldn't be THAT bad.

Since it's a new bike, I agree, let the dealer try to fix it first.
If they can't, or tell you "they are all like that" then you have first check for air leaks and then take the normal steps to make the idle bit more rich.

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Old 11-06-2008, 03:17 PM   #853
CessPool
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Thanks for the replies. I figured something wasn't right but it's done that from the start so assumed that eventually things would "loosen up".
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:26 AM   #854
FlyingFinn
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Front Sprocket??

Now I'm confused about the front sprockets....

Some aftermarket vendors list same sprocket part number for the DR200, 350 and DRZ400.
But may show a different sprocket for 200 vs 350 and 400. And I'm not talking about the number of teeth her but the "style" or model of the sprocket.

Also here on the board I see reports "they are the same" and "they aren't the same".

Problem is, I can't find a 16T "DR200" version ANYWHERE. The ones that fit the 350 and 400 are available in 16T size.

Any advise?

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Old 11-07-2008, 11:07 AM   #855
mike1952
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cant find a one up front sproket

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingFinn
Now I'm confused about the front sprockets....

Some aftermarket vendors list same sprocket part number for the DR200, 350 and DRZ400.
But may show a different sprocket for 200 vs 350 and 400. And I'm not talking about the number of teeth her but the "style" or model of the sprocket.

Also here on the board I see reports "they are the same" and "they aren't the same".

Problem is, I can't find a 16T "DR200" version ANYWHERE. The ones that fit the 350 and 400 are available in 16T size.

Any advise?

--
Mikko
I cant find a front sproket with one additional tooth at all.
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