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Old 03-20-2013, 10:11 PM   #15121
Suzuki Phil
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Oddometer: 627
Quote:
Originally Posted by e28rusty View Post
It behaves the same no matter how fast you crack it. It has a raptor petcock and the float is just below the seam.
The rubber looks new, and there's no varnish or anything in there. It looks like a new carb.
I just snagged a used cdi on ebay so we'll try that in 3-5 business days, I'm not really sure what else could be going on.
Doubt it's the cdi. When I first purchased my DR years back it ran great at the guys house. Took it too the desert and it ran like crap. Spent a month trying to figure it out, carb off, carb on, carb off, carb on, new plug etc.

Called Jesse at Kientech (sp?) to talk about something and I mentioned all the trouble I was having. Don't remember the conversation exactly but we started talking about pilot jet. I said my pilot jet was solid and he said "all pilot jets on DR had bleed holes".

After spending five or so dollars with him I'm happy to say after six years of riding the bike runs great. Apparently someone had changed the pilot to a solid not bleed hole style.

In other words check your pilot jet,

SP
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:15 PM   #15122
bullittman281
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so far the "fix" for RE's dr has been a sizable change in jetting. I went from a 132.5 Main and a needle position of 2 to a 137.5 main and the clip all the way down. The needle change was a bit aggressive as it stumbles getting off the gas now but its infinitely better than it was before. Changing all of the electrics out and jacking with everything else made NO change. Only richening the jetting "fixed" it. The million dollar question remains though as to why it apparently ran great on the jetting for many months before suddenly not running at all on the jetting. Everything checks out though. The carb and valves are perfects and the electrics are all good. I have no idea as to why it would suddenly change. It will probably forever be a mystery.
To call the bike 100% the top end will ultimately need to come back apart for new gaskets and new rings. There *may* have been some confusion on which way was up on the rings. The bike smokes a touch now but it seems to run OK. If there is time I may lower the needle a position or two to clear up the stumble when getting off the gas but other wise it runs OK.

Bullittman
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:39 PM   #15123
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullittman281 View Post
so far the "fix" for RE's dr has been a sizable change in jetting. I went from a 132.5 Main and a needle position of 2 to a 137.5 main and the clip all the way down. The needle change was a bit aggressive as it stumbles getting off the gas now but its infinitely better than it was before. Changing all of the electrics out and jacking with everything else made NO change. Only richening the jetting "fixed" it. The million dollar question remains though as to why it apparently ran great on the jetting for many months before suddenly not running at all on the jetting. Everything checks out though. The carb and valves are perfects and the electrics are all good. I have no idea as to why it would suddenly change. It will probably forever be a mystery.
To call the bike 100% the top end will ultimately need to come back apart for new gaskets and new rings. There *may* have been some confusion on which way was up on the rings. The bike smokes a touch now but it seems to run OK. If there is time I may lower the needle a position or two to clear up the stumble when getting off the gas but other wise it runs OK.

Bullittman
You probably already have, but might want to check for an intake leak....cracked/hard rubber on the intake manifold(might be hard to see), clamp not tight enough, bad o-ring, cracked/bad plug that stops up the port for the vacume petcock. Might try spraying some brake clean while its running and see if you notice any change. Have a water hose handy. It never worked for me but some say it does.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:47 PM   #15124
daverbmxer
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Hopefully I don't push anyone's buttons here, I know this topic has been debated a lot.. I have done some reading the last couple days and seen that Rotella oil is fine for motorcycle use. The Valvoline Motorcycle oil I used to buy is no longer carried anywhere in town, and I bought some Castrol Motorcycle oil today that I think I will return after reading some things online. I know that my local Wal Mart sells Rotella, so I am tempted to go with that since that is available. I would like to hear a confirmed "yes it's fine" though! Should I go with the Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w40? Do I need to flush the system before I make the conversion from Valvoline dino to Rotella synthetic?
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:03 AM   #15125
CoupleMoreCorners
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I'm totally jumping in on this thread late, but my DR never ran well (except for that one day) after I put on the Supertrapp and rejetted. I finally gave up after much frustration, and went with a KTM EXC 97. Since then I've owned a DRZ, which is a night and day better motorcycle! Good luck. No matter what, just have fun.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:42 AM   #15126
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
Hopefully I don't push anyone's buttons here, I know this topic has been debated a lot.. I have done some reading the last couple days and seen that Rotella oil is fine for motorcycle use. The Valvoline Motorcycle oil I used to buy is no longer carried anywhere in town, and I bought some Castrol Motorcycle oil today that I think I will return after reading some things online. I know that my local Wal Mart sells Rotella, so I am tempted to go with that since that is available. I would like to hear a confirmed "yes it's fine" though! Should I go with the Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w40? Do I need to flush the system before I make the conversion from Valvoline dino to Rotella synthetic?
I'll bite...

I do not see any real need to flush. Just run the oil and change at the recommended interval.

As for what oil to use, here is my take: If you are within the viscosity range recommended by Suzuki AND you do not have any clutch slippage, then use whatever oil you purchased.

I am not making a recommendation here, only mentioning what I *personally* use: my DR350 gets Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil, 10W40. My Moto Guzzis all live on Shell Rotella T 15W40. Unfortunately, I do not have any data on using the Shell Rotella T 15W40 in the Suzuki DR350. Someone else may chime in.

Personally, I would not choose to spend the extra money on synthetic oil for the DR350. I change it frequently enough that I see no value add there for me. When one of my local stores ran out of the Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil, I purchased a couple of quarts of Castrol 4 stroke motorcycle oil (10W40) and used it. I do believe there is some very, very small benefit in keeping with same oil change after change. In contrast, I believe there is an overwhelming benefit in keeping oil in the engine in the first place.

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:29 AM   #15127
FireDog45
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+1

I've run the Rotella (both the conventional and Syn) in all my bikes and its sitting in the DR right now.

Check the back of any oil and if you see "JASO MA" then that means the oil has passed the tests for motorcycle use. That was the cause for elation recently because the synthetic Rotella finally got the JASO cert.

Buy it, run it and love the extra $$ in your pocket!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:39 AM   #15128
redleger
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
. I do believe there is some very, very small benefit in keeping with same oil change after change. In contrast, I believe there is an overwhelming benefit in keeping oil in the engine in the first place.
I agree. I run the Honda stuff from my motorcycyle shop in my DR350, but once I had no choice but to put in 10w30 from the Post Exchange because that was all I had access too. I have had no issues with my DR 350 at all with switching oils. I wish my DRZ was as reliable as my DR!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:41 AM   #15129
MrPulldown
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
Hopefully I don't push anyone's buttons here, I know this topic has been debated a lot.. I have done some reading the last couple days and seen that Rotella oil is fine for motorcycle use. The Valvoline Motorcycle oil I used to buy is no longer carried anywhere in town, and I bought some Castrol Motorcycle oil today that I think I will return after reading some things online. I know that my local Wal Mart sells Rotella, so I am tempted to go with that since that is available. I would like to hear a confirmed "yes it's fine" though! Should I go with the Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w40? Do I need to flush the system before I make the conversion from Valvoline dino to Rotella synthetic?
I have run just about every kind of 10-40 oil there is in the ol DR. None of which have been motorcycle speicifc oil. Seems to work fine. No clutch slippage. I currently run mobil 1 synthetic 10-40 car oil. Seems like the DR gets some pretty high oil temps and the syn helps with keeping the slippery stuff from breaking down. I have never run motorcycle speicifc oil, and NEVER run low friction stuff like 5-20.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:44 AM   #15130
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoupleMoreCorners View Post
I'm totally jumping in on this thread late, but my DR never ran well (except for that one day) after I put on the Supertrapp and rejetted. I finally gave up after much frustration, and went with a KTM EXC 97. Since then I've owned a DRZ, which is a night and day better motorcycle! Good luck. No matter what, just have fun.
Maybe you shouldn't have installed that super crap exhaust. Or was better at tuning carbs.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:46 AM   #15131
Hotmamaandme
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oil bit

Ive been using Valvoline full synthetic motorcycle oil from Walmart in my DR's with no issues.

As far as the Rottela is concerned what about all the SF and SG ratings? I thought those ratings where specific for wet clutch applications?

I would be interested in saving some money by using the Rotella. What weight Rotella have you been using in your DR?
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:51 AM   #15132
2bold2getold
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I have also used a lot of different brands of oils, without any problems. Lately I've been using Valvoline blend 10w40. The best oil I ever used IMHO was Kendal GT1. Seen it save a few motors that locked up solid from over heating. Those old VW bugs used to really run hot down here in the Texas summers. Got the oppertunity to see under a LOT of valve covers and the ones using Kendal were always very nice and clean compared to other brands. It's kinda hard to find but if it was good enough for Big Daddy Don Garlits....OOOps, digressing again. I think todays oils will all mix with out problems. Years ago there used to be a parfin based oil that people said didn't mix with todays type petroleum based oils. I never understood that.....Maybe that parfin oil had plant based stuff in it, seems to me oil either comes from refined crude, out of the ground, or plant based, bean type vegetable oil. Never heard of any animal fat oil used in motors. Although bacon fat might be good.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:58 AM   #15133
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Although bacon fat might be good.
There is a very well known mechanic in Moto Guzzi circles who responds to oil threads with "Yak Fat" as the recommended oil to use! :> :> :>
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:48 PM   #15134
FireDog45
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Location: Central, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
Ive been using Valvoline full synthetic motorcycle oil from Walmart in my DR's with no issues.

As far as the Rottela is concerned what about all the SF and SG ratings? I thought those ratings where specific for wet clutch applications?

I would be interested in saving some money by using the Rotella. What weight Rotella have you been using in your DR?
Avoid oils with Energy Conserving on the label. These tend to use friction modifiers that the wet clutches don't like. As long as it carries the JASO-MA cert you can use it:

JASO
The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin.
For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, and the JASO T904-MB standard is not suitable for wet clutch use.
For two-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO M345 (FA, FB, FC) standard is used, and this refers particularly to low ash, lubricity, detergency, low smoke and exhaust blocking.
These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage.[18][9] An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:40 PM   #15135
tntmo
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Shell Rotella T 15W40 in all my bikes. It gets changed often enough that I don't feel the price of synthetic is worth it.
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