DR350 Thread

[travis789]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

You probably already have, but might want to check for an intake leak....cracked/hard rubber on the intake manifold(might be hard to see), clamp not tight enough, bad o-ring, cracked/bad plug that stops up the port for the vacume petcock. Might try spraying some brake clean while its running and see if you notice any change. Have a water hose handy. It never worked for me but some say it does.

I've seen that method with the brake clean and it will work. Make sure what you're using as the testing agent is not flammable(1) and won't deteriorate rubber or strip paint or metal finish(2). Since the liquid isn't flammable any that is sucked in through the tiniest of intake leaks will cause the bike to stumble letting you know you have some work to do. Use tiny squirts and wait a moment after checking each area. Then you'll have some idea where to look

[travis789]

And I'm having the all-too-familiar hard to kick start cold problem. I've had the carb apart once and it looked fairly clean but I was too lazy to take it into work where I could blow through the ports with compressed air. I'm thinking its the choke circuit because I can drift start in on the hill next to my house and when it starts it doesn't idle at what I'd consider a high rpm even with the choke fully on. All the other suzuki's I've had ('78 gs750, 93gsxr1100, '02Bandit1200s) really roared when that choke was on and you could drive it away with it on. This dr you dare not touch the throttle until it warms up for a few minutes. What do you think?

[travis789]

I've also changed the plug, drained the tank, filled it with fresh fuel, replaced the leaking petcock with a non-vacuum type, plugged the vacuum port (for the petcock) on the carb, and unscrewed the plug boot off the lead and cut a 1/4" off it and screwed the boot back on. The plug wire is heat hardened pretty badly and I'm considering a new coil or at the very least a new suzuki resistor spark plug boot (resistor might be bad) I'm starting to regret getting a kick start only model but I'm going to keep trying until I make it easier to start. It starts on the 1st or 2nd kick once its warm btw.

[Stretch67]

For starters, shitcan the resistor and replace it with a piece of copper, brass, or stainless steel rod the same length.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/413...plug-resistor/

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by travis789

And I'm having the all-too-familiar hard to kick start cold problem. I've had the carb apart once and it looked fairly clean but I was too lazy to take it into work where I could blow through the ports with compressed air. I'm thinking its the choke circuit because I can drift start in on the hill next to my house and when it starts it doesn't idle at what I'd consider a high rpm even with the choke fully on. All the other suzuki's I've had ('78 gs750, 93gsxr1100, '02Bandit1200s) really roared when that choke was on and you could drive it away with it on. This dr you dare not touch the throttle until it warms up for a few minutes. What do you think?

Could be the the choke and be sure to check the idle jet. It has a super small orfice and is famous for getting clogged or partially stopped up. Any time I have carb problems, it is the first place I check.

[mustangwagz]

Originally Posted by Stretch67

For starters, shitcan the resistor and replace it with a piece of copper, brass, or stainless steel rod the same length.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/413...plug-resistor/

Wait, What?! lol Theres on in the boot?? No crap...guess ill be tearing that apart! LOL

Never knew this!!

[daverbmxer]

I think I will go with Rotella T 15w40 then. I was told when I bought my bike that the engine was recently rebuilt, but I don't know how long ago. Hopefully the oil won't be too thick for the tighter tolerances? Also I plan on riding it a bit in this wonderful 30*F weather that we are supposed to be getting next week. Is the 15w40 going to be too thick for that? I plan to let it warm up 5 min before riding it.

I told a friend that I plan to run Rotella in my bike and he couldn't figure out why. He runs it in his deuce and a half (old military 6x6) and is questioning why I want to run it in a smaller higher revving engine. What ought I tell him?

[Anonawesome]

Just put a pumper carb on my '90. It's running a little rich. Haven't had a chance to mess with it yet but I feel that the idle air screw won't do enough to get it running perfect. Before I have to order new jets is anyone aware if pumper carbs (the tm33 obviously) have needles with adjustable clip positions? Pretty sure one clip position would be just about perfect and it would definitely be more convenient. Thanks!

[travis789]

Originally Posted by Stretch67

For starters, shitcan the resistor and replace it with a piece of copper, brass, or stainless steel rod the same length.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/413...plug-resistor/

Thanks, I'll give that a try. And here we go with another look at the carb, too.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by travis789

And I'm having the all-too-familiar hard to kick start cold problem. I've had the carb apart once and it looked fairly clean but I was too lazy to take it into work where I could blow through the ports with compressed air. I'm thinking its the choke circuit because I can drift start in on the hill next to my house and when it starts it doesn't idle at what I'd consider a high rpm even with the choke fully on. All the other suzuki's I've had ('78 gs750, 93gsxr1100, '02Bandit1200s) really roared when that choke was on and you could drive it away with it on. This dr you dare not touch the throttle until it warms up for a few minutes. What do you think?

Sounds to me like the diaphragm at the top of the carburetor should be replaced. Mine had those symptoms early on when I switched from a new pumper to a used CV carb. I love the CV carb now on my kick start dirt machine :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by mustangwagz

Wait, What?! lol Theres on in the boot?? No crap...guess ill be tearing that apart! LOL

Never knew this!!

Another option is to simply replace the entire cap with a new one:

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...g_resistor_cap

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by Anonawesome

Just put a pumper carb on my '90. It's running a little rich. Haven't had a chance to mess with it yet but I feel that the idle air screw won't do enough to get it running perfect. Before I have to order new jets is anyone aware if pumper carbs (the tm33 obviously) have needles with adjustable clip positions? Pretty sure one clip position would be just about perfect and it would definitely be more convenient. Thanks!

Yes, they have adjustable needles. Personally, I think it is much easier to swap jet than to change the needle notch on the pumper carbs. Of course, both do different things, so do what you need to do :>

Here is some info on jets if you need it:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...arburetor_jets

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[markk900]

Originally Posted by bullittman281

so far the "fix" for RE's dr has been a sizable change in jetting. I went from a 132.5 Main and a needle position of 2 to a 137.5 main and the clip all the way down. The needle change was a bit aggressive as it stumbles getting off the gas now but its infinitely better than it was before. Changing all of the electrics out and jacking with everything else made NO change. Only richening the jetting "fixed" it. The million dollar question remains though as to why it apparently ran great on the jetting for many months before suddenly not running at all on the jetting. Everything checks out though. The carb and valves are perfects and the electrics are all good. I have no idea as to why it would suddenly change. It will probably forever be a mystery.
To call the bike 100% the top end will ultimately need to come back apart for new gaskets and new rings. There *may* have been some confusion on which way was up on the rings. The bike smokes a touch now but it seems to run OK. If there is time I may lower the needle a position or two to clear up the stumble when getting off the gas but other wise it runs OK.

Bullittman

First off, glad this is pretty much resolved and that you were able to help out RE - he seemed ready to crack!

For those of us playing at home, I'm still confused as the solution and the symptoms don't line up, especially since the bike was running fine until the tank was changed. While the adjustment is there for a reason, you should never have to run the needle in the bottom position. And that main jet change wasn't really a big change IMO.....does anyone have a decent idea why the changes bullitman did would fix this after all the work RE went through?

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by daverbmxer

I think I will go with Rotella T 15w40 then. I was told when I bought my bike that the engine was recently rebuilt, but I don't know how long ago. Hopefully the oil won't be too thick for the tighter tolerances? Also I plan on riding it a bit in this wonderful 30*F weather that we are supposed to be getting next week. Is the 15w40 going to be too thick for that? I plan to let it warm up 5 min before riding it.

I told a friend that I plan to run Rotella in my bike and he couldn't figure out why. He runs it in his deuce and a half (old military 6x6) and is questioning why I want to run it in a smaller higher revving engine. What ought I tell him?

I think people use Shell Rotella T 15W40 because it is a good quality oil, is readily available in most stores here in the USA, and is somewhat less expensive than motorcycle specific oils. Certainly, it seems to perform very well in my Moto Guzzis, so no complaint from me there. Since Suzuki calls for 10W40, I choose to use that viscosity. The Valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle oil I use in my DR350 is also a good quality oil, though it is not as readily available and it costs me maybe $1 - $1.50 per quart more than Rotella ($2 - $3 more for an oil change). Call me a spendthrift, but I don't mind that kind of "frivolous" spending. I just pick up a few extra quarts when I am in a store with it and have it sitting on my shelf, ready to go.

Does buying the Valvoline product give me any advantage over the Rotella product? Probably. Maybe. Doubtful. Choose your own answer. I "feel" better using it, so I continue to use it (and I like the black bottle it comes in). Very scientific :> :> :> :>

Living in Phoenix, I could probably easily get away with running a 15W40. Up in cold country, a person *might* easily get away with 5W40 or even 0W40. Let me be perfectly clear: I am not recommending any oil brand nor viscosity - use what *you* want to use.

Is there anything wrong with using 15W40 in a DR350? I don't run it so I can't say anything from personal experience. But, there have been numerous posts from people who run it all the time without problems. Personally, I suggest you give it a try and see what you think. You are not going to ruin the engine or blow anything up or dramatically shorten the life of the engine. As for what to tell your friend, tell him whatever reasons *you* have for running the Rotella.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[PHILinFRANCE]

Hi all HELP PLEASE

92 DR350 starts a peice of piss after 2 weeks standing BUT WONT RUN AT HIGH REVS !!! coughing and spluttering and no pick up !!

Had the carb to bits loads of times and cleaned like a new one , had the jets out and and petcock cleaned everything !!

It also sort of back fires through the carb !!!wierd put my hand on it and nearly jumped out of my skin first time.

Getting sick of it now !!!!! any ideas

Phil