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Old 03-26-2013, 07:07 AM   #15196
Wadester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElleOn2Wheels View Post
Apologies if I'm posting in the wrong forum but I couldn't find a DR250 thread and my bike is the small sister of the DR350....

I'm making a long trip for the 1st time on my DR250. It's just 200 miles which isn't far but in the current british climate (snow), it is!
Avoiding highways, I reckon it'll take 6-8 hours :(
So I want to be able to use my heated vest which apparently uses 43W / 3.3 amps.
But the bike will have it's lights on too.
The manual doesn't help me. Can anyone here advise?

It's a 1991 DR250S.
Hmm. My '92 DR350S stator drives dual 65W halogens w/o issue (does dim at idle with both on, but not with just low beam) Best thing to do is get a voltmeter - as long as you're up around 14V everything is good. Get a variable controller for your vest and you can tune things to match.

Good luck!

PS: I've also ditched the battery and gone to a capacitor, so I don't have reserve voltage at idle, but I don't have the drain of a halfdead battery half the time anymore either.
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This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:52 AM   #15197
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElleOn2Wheels View Post
Apologies if I'm posting in the wrong forum but I couldn't find a DR250 thread and my bike is the small sister of the DR350....

I'm making a long trip for the 1st time on my DR250. It's just 200 miles which isn't far but in the current british climate (snow), it is!
Avoiding highways, I reckon it'll take 6-8 hours :(
So I want to be able to use my heated vest which apparently uses 43W / 3.3 amps.
But the bike will have it's lights on too.
The manual doesn't help me. Can anyone here advise?

It's a 1991 DR250S.
I have used a heated vest on a longer ride than that - Granted not on max heat but I imagine if you keep the rpm up most of the time you'll be fine. If the headlamp starts to dim all you need to do is turn the jacket down (or off) for a few minutes to put a bit of charge back in the battery. After my 225-mile cold-day ride, I plugged in the batter maintainer and it indicated the battery was fully charged.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:39 AM   #15198
MrPulldown
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looking at adding a capacitor instead of a battery on the kick start DR. I know that some bikes can not do this as they need a charge to start the prossess. I know that the DR is able to ditch the battery.

Pablo used a 35v 2500uF cap wired in place of the battery.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=125

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

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Old 03-26-2013, 12:01 PM   #15199
Frankdozer
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Spraying The Engine & Frame After Washing The Dirt Off

In the past ( 10 plus years ago ) after I got in a good dirt ride I would wash the bike and engine with Simple Green. It did a nice job and also degreased the frame. Now that I'm going to drive the bike again after that many years, what should I use for a protecting spray after I wash it. Maybe CRC or WD-40 or what do you use for a wash and spray down? I going to start driving the bike again. It's a 1990 Suzuki DR350S. I just did an oil change and rebuilt the carb. Thanks, Frank
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:34 PM   #15200
Wadester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
looking at adding a capacitor instead of a battery on the kick start DR. I know that some bikes can not do this as they need a charge to start the prossess. I know that the DR is able to ditch the battery.

Pablo used a 35v 2500uF cap wired in place of the battery.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=125

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

Experiances
I used an Accel 151308 Battery Eliminator capacitor, I recall the specs are 25V and 27,000microF. Got it for $20, looks like $30 now.



When I turn on the key (on a dark morning) I see the neutral light come on and fade out in less than a second. That's the entire charge of the cap going by. I don't worry about getting zapped, but I would turn on the key and discharge it before I stuck my finger on it.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:38 PM   #15201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
looking at adding a capacitor instead of a battery on the kick start DR. I know that some bikes can not do this as they need a charge to start the prossess. I know that the DR is able to ditch the battery.

Pablo used a 35v 2500uF cap wired in place of the battery.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=125

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

Experiances
I too run a kickstart DR350S without a battery. I'm using 2 4700mfd capacitors in parallel in place of the 4 AH battery. The lights dim slightly with the turn signals at idle but are stable above 2000 rpms. I'm running stock lights and I routinely use an electric vest AND grip heaters. No problem since the engine is almost always spinning fast enough to run everything. If you're worried a voltmeter is the best way to monitor it.

Getting zapped by the capacitor is not a problem since it bleeds down thru the voltage regulator almost instantly when the bike is shut off. Truth is, I almost never turn the ignition switch off... just use the kill button. Nobody can steal it anyhow cause only a tiny percentage of the world's population can kick off a DR350. ;-)

thump! screwed with this post 03-26-2013 at 12:56 PM
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Old 03-26-2013, 01:11 PM   #15202
Bulleteer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Nobody can steal it anyhow cause only a tiny percentage of the world's population can kick off a DR350. ;-)
That's my thinking on my old Enfield 500. I normally leave the key in it when I go into a store. I was surprised one day when an on- break employee ran to tell me that I had left my key in the ignition. I kinda figured that anyone this day and time that knows how to kick start a 500 single deserves it free of charge.

But I do take the key out of my DR350SE. Any idiot can press a starter button.
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:09 PM   #15203
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I too run a kickstart DR350S without a battery. I'm using 2 4700mfd capacitors in parallel in place of the 4 AH battery. The lights dim slightly with the turn signals at idle but are stable above 2000 rpms. I'm running stock lights and I routinely use an electric vest AND grip heaters. No problem since the engine is almost always spinning fast enough to run everything. If you're worried a voltmeter is the best way to monitor it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
I used an Accel 151308 Battery Eliminator capacitor, I recall the specs are 25V and 27,000microF. Got it for $20, looks like $30 now.
it.
That is quite a range of capacitors. Seems like anything will work. Will the bike start with nothing in place of a battery?
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:11 PM   #15204
MrPulldown
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Why do you need vent lines. The CV carb has at least 2 pisser lines that come off it. Are these really needed or do they jsut keep the gas from spilling on the engine.

The "T" vent line is the most baffling. Stock point up. Point it down and it vac locks. Most "T" it. But with a hose it runs too.

WTF.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:08 PM   #15205
Wadester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
That is quite a range of capacitors. Seems like anything will work. Will the bike start with nothing in place of a battery?
Yes, it will. But it tends to die at idle, and there is a possibility of damage to electronics due to surges. The cap acts as a damper, calming and smoothing the waves. More farads makes for a bigger damper, but until you get up to the "super" or "ultra" range (above 1 farad) they don't store enough energy to act as a battery. Voltage rating just needs to be above expected, because voltage above that will internally short out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Why do you need vent lines. The CV carb has at least 2 pisser lines that come off it. Are these really needed or do they jsut keep the gas from spilling on the engine.

The "T" vent line is the most baffling. Stock point up. Point it down and it vac locks. Most "T" it. But with a hose it runs too.

WTF.
The problem comes when you get a slug of fuel into the vent line (from a dirtnap) that prevents more fuel from flowing into the bowl - or rather slows it way down. Proper routing and always having an up outlet keeps this from happening, keeping that slug of liquid from blocking the vent line. As I understand it.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:26 PM   #15206
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
The problem comes when you get a slug of fuel into the vent line (from a dirtnap) that prevents more fuel from flowing into the bowl - or rather slows it way down. Proper routing and always having an up outlet keeps this from happening, keeping that slug of liquid from blocking the vent line. As I understand it.
But if there is no line then there is no "slug". the liquid jsut goes out of the system.
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:35 PM   #15207
Wadester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
But if there is no line then there is no "slug". the liquid jsut goes out of the system.
Yes, but then you have a hole leading directly into your floatbowl - that will dump overflow fuel onto your engine/exhaust/etc right next to the carb bowl where the hole is. Nice to have a hose to take it a bit away and maybe have something that will keep the nasty dirtses awaaaaaay.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:57 PM   #15208
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Yes, but then you have a hole leading directly into your floatbowl - that will dump overflow fuel onto your engine/exhaust/etc right next to the carb bowl where the hole is. Nice to have a hose to take it a bit away and maybe have something that will keep the nasty dirtses awaaaaaay.

RIGHT. SO till the bike is ready to hit the road (dirt road) I will leave the ven hoses off. Much easier to work on.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:06 AM   #15209
cwc
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Electric vest use

Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Not really the anwser but for reference the 350 has about 200 watts of generator output.
According to the service manuals, the models I have (95,96,97 SE's) have 125 w. @ 5000 rpm.

I have ridden up to 140 miles with the vest on with no ill effects.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:37 AM   #15210
pdegroote
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
looking at adding a capacitor instead of a battery on the kick start DR. I know that some bikes can not do this as they need a charge to start the prossess. I know that the DR is able to ditch the battery.

Pablo used a 35v 2500uF cap wired in place of the battery.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=125

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

Experiances
Just ask yourself:

Are you afraid your 12v battery discharge might through you?

I would not worry too much about a charged capacitor, no matter how big, if it's charged at most likely less than 14 volts...

Same capacity capacitor at 500 Volts is not something I'd advice to touch when charged...

A 35V capacitor will charge to the voltage you apply to it... 35V is an indication of the max. voltage you can apply. If charged by a 12v automotive system, it should be charged at 12-14v... no more..

Don't charge a 35V capacitor from a 500V source, it will short-circuit and probably explode...

The Farad (F, mF etc..) rating defines how much charge the capacitor can hold. (can be compared (not saying it's equal) to the AMP-hour rating of a battery

rgds
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