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Old 04-03-2013, 03:46 PM   #15331
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by wyostrom View Post
I could use some insight or opinions. The other day, after another carb flooding issue with my 1995 DR350( It seems that the petcock just isn't right - floods all over everything if I put it on prime even for just a minute) some swearing etc, my wife suggested buying a new bike. Would I be that much happier with a DRZ400 over my 350? I realize that new bikes are just nice and money isn't really that much of an issue in the decision but it is a lot if it isn't all that much better a bike. I do most of my ADV touring on my 06 Vstrom(Dl650) but like the 350 for riding in the dirt and when my wife and I load the bikes in the truck and go somewhere. One other question, the local dealer has a DR650 but it doesn't seem all that much lighter than my vstrom.
Thanks for any thoughts, Don

Why would you put the petcock in prime? Leave the petcock in the regular on position and let the engine vac do the on and off for you. A raptor petcock will not help any, as it is a standard on/off jobbie. Leave it on and it will flood. When the stock vacume operated petcock goes bad it will leak fuel back through the vacume line and flood out the engine not jsut the carb.

Like Wadster said you have worn bits in your carb. The thing he did not mention is a worn float needle/weight. If it doesn't seat in the valve gas will leak by and flood the float bowl and overflow.

A dr650 is jsut a slightly more dirt oreineted version of your V. A drz will be better than the Dr350 IMO.

These Dr's are getting old. if you do not like wrenching on the bike, you'd be btter off wiht a newer one.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:51 PM   #15332
Teeeeeemu
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Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
My brand new tm33 has some play in the slide. I would think the only way to tell would be pull it out and look for visual wear. Again, my brand new tm33 has clearly visible wear on the slide so I would think it would have to be really severe. Also, don't let anyone here tell you that a worn slide means you have to buy a new carb. You can just buy a new slide. Not sure why everyone here thinks you can't......
IF I can find another slide I could buy that... The movement is pretty small, under 1mm. I'll just let it be for now, the bike does idle like it is now. The slide is worn on the engine side (imgur.com/3gvGT8y) but it doesnt look to bad.

Is this the pilot jet? EDIT. It says 40 on the side so yes it is.


How do I get the floats / float pin out? Where is the needle everyone talks about?
This is the only adjusting screw I could find, is this the fuel-air-mixture screw? Doesnt look like that to me
How much should it be in our out or whatever? If there are other screws please tell me

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Old 04-03-2013, 04:08 PM   #15333
SloMo228
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Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
IF I can find another slide I could buy that... The movement is pretty small, under 1mm. I'll just let it be for now, the bike does idle like it is now. The slide is worn on the engine side (imgur.com/3gvGT8y) but it doesnt look to bad.

Is this the pilot jet? EDIT. It says 40 on the side so yes it is.


How do I get the floats / float pin out? Where is the needle everyone talks about?
This is the only adjusting screw I could find, is this the fuel-air-mixture screw? Doesnt look like that to me
How much should it be in our out or whatever? If there are other screws please tell me
I don't really know anything about the pumper carb, but I know enough about carbs in general to tell you that that's an idle adjustment screw. It just sets the bottom limit on the throttle travel so the throttle stays ever so slightly cracked to allow the engine to idle. Screw it in to raise idle, back it out to lower idle. Can't help you on the AF screw, though, don't know where that would be on that carb.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:10 PM   #15334
Teeeeeemu
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Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
I don't really know anything about the pumper carb, but I know enough about carbs in general to tell you that that's an idle adjustment screw. It just sets the bottom limit on the throttle travel so the throttle stays ever so slightly cracked to allow the engine to idle. Screw it in to raise idle, back it out to lower idle. Can't help you on the AF screw, though, don't know where that would be on that carb.
Exactly, thats what I thought it would do just by looking at it
But I cant see anything else I could mess with...
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #15335
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
IF I can find another slide I could buy that... The movement is pretty small, under 1mm. I'll just let it be for now, the bike does idle like it is now. The slide is worn on the engine side (imgur.com/3gvGT8y) but it doesnt look to bad.

Is this the pilot jet? EDIT. It says 40 on the side so yes it is.


How do I get the floats / float pin out? Where is the needle everyone talks about?
This is the only adjusting screw I could find, is this the fuel-air-mixture screw? Doesnt look like that to me
How much should it be in our out or whatever? If there are other screws please tell me
Yes that is the pilot jet.

you can buy a new slide:
http://shop.viperizerracing.com/prod...&categoryId=75

There are two needles. One is the main needle attached to the slide. The other is often called a float weight and is attached to the float.


I think the reason you can not find the idle mixture screw is because it is hidden under a brass plug. At least this is how it is on a CV carb, It hink the pumper was the same. If you are looking at the bottom of the carb it would be closest to the engine. The brass plug has a little hole in it. The rason for this plug is because the mix is set from the factory and becuase of emmisions regulations they don't want you to mess with it. You can drill out the plug, but becarefull not to drill the top of the mixture screw. Use a bit as close to the OD of the brass plug, this will twist the plug out before you reach the screw and jack it up.

In this picture you can see the screw on a CV carb. The pump has the screw is the same basic location. Many would reccomend a extended screw with a thumb wheel on it for ease of asjsutment.

http://www.kientech.com/ExtendedFuelScrews.htm

MrPulldown screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 04:23 PM
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:20 PM   #15336
2bold2getold
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Originally Posted by wyostrom View Post
I could use some insight or opinions. The other day, after another carb flooding issue with my 1995 DR350( It seems that the petcock just isn't right - floods all over everything if I put it on prime even for just a minute# some swearing etc, my wife suggested buying a new bike. Would I be that much happier with a DRZ400 over my 350? I realize that new bikes are just nice and money isn't really that much of an issue in the decision but it is a lot if it isn't all that much better a bike. I do most of my ADV touring on my 06 Vstrom#Dl650) but like the 350 for riding in the dirt and when my wife and I load the bikes in the truck and go somewhere. One other question, the local dealer has a DR650 but it doesn't seem all that much lighter than my vstrom.
Thanks for any thoughts, Don
It shouldn't be hard to replace/fix the pet cock and/or carb on your DR, but if you want a new bike, the DRZ400 and DR650 are good choices. I don't have a DRZ, but have a friend with an "03 DRZ400 that I have worked on several times and I did a lot of research before I bought the DR350. The DRZ400 is a good bike and about the only choice you have in that size/class in bikes from Japan. Honda, Kawasaki, and Yamaha got nothing that they import to the USA. The 450's are all to much race bike and the transmissions are geared wrong for dual sport. The FI 250's might work if you can use a smaller cc bike and like making tuning changes with your lap top. The DRZ is a newer bike with parts availibility, water cooled, e-start, diaphram carb. The down side is 5 speed. This bike really needs a 6th gear. If you are the kind that doesn't mind spinning the motor pretty hard at 65mph then no problem. It "feels" heavier to me than the DR350 and I can't tell it has any more power. They both have their problems, but the simplicity and 6 speed gear ratios of the "98 DR350SE made the difference for me.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 05:05 PM
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:38 PM   #15337
Teeeeeemu
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post

I think the reason you can not find the idle mixture screw is because it is hidden under a brass plug. At least this is how it is on a CV carb, It hink the pumper was the same. If you are looking at the bottom of the carb it would be closest to the engine. The brass plug has a little hole in it. The rason for this plug is because the mix is set from the factory and becuase of emmisions regulations they don't want you to mess with it. You can drill out the plug, but becarefull not to drill the top of the mixture screw. Use a bit as close to the OD of the brass plug, this will twist the plug out before you reach the screw and jack it up.

In this picture you can see the screw on a CV carb. The pump has the screw is the same basic location. Many would reccomend a extended screw with a thumb wheel on it for ease of asjsutment.
http://i.imgur.com/6IoKrMU.jpg
I thought I found it on the top left but nope, thats the accelerator pump... Which way should I be looking??


10 edits, now its what I want...
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:41 PM   #15338
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
http://i.imgur.com/6IoKrMU.jpg
I thought I found it on the top left but nope, thats the accelerator pump... Which way should I be looking??
dude it is right there. on the right side of the picture. It is reccessed. There is no plug.


Be sure to count how many turns out it is set to before removing. Do this by turning it all the way in till it seats while counting the revolutions of the screw.

MrPulldown screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 04:48 PM
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:47 PM   #15339
Teeeeeemu
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dude it is right there. on the right side of the picture. It is reccessed. There is no plug.
The middle one! Yeah! Thank you! I turned it all the way in and it went 2,25 turns. Now its back where it was. What is the recommended position?
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:02 PM   #15340
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyostrom View Post
I could use some insight or opinions. The other day, after another carb flooding issue with my 1995 DR350( It seems that the petcock just isn't right - floods all over everything if I put it on prime even for just a minute) some swearing etc, my wife suggested buying a new bike. Would I be that much happier with a DRZ400 over my 350? I realize that new bikes are just nice and money isn't really that much of an issue in the decision but it is a lot if it isn't all that much better a bike. I do most of my ADV touring on my 06 Vstrom(Dl650) but like the 350 for riding in the dirt and when my wife and I load the bikes in the truck and go somewhere. One other question, the local dealer has a DR650 but it doesn't seem all that much lighter than my vstrom.
Thanks for any thoughts, Don
More often than not flooding and erratic low speed behavior is related to failure of the o-ring under the float needle seat. It gets hard with time and exposure to fuel and allows fuel to by-pass the float needle altogether. Both the BST and TM carbs have this o-ring. DR650s have them too.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:37 PM   #15341
Chiknmunky
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Originally Posted by OldUKBikerGuy View Post
While restoring my whole bike, I've got my rear shock in bits and wonder if it's OK to get the spring powder-coated?

Obviously when riding, the metal will flex a bit, but enough to cause a problem?
Any real-world experience, guys?

Also, the PO had taped some inner-tube rubber around the damper to protect the chromed shaft (which it had - quite well), but has anyone got a better idea?
Thanks!
I have powder coated the springs on a couple bikes and the finish has held up great!
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:42 PM   #15342
Anonawesome
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Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
The middle one! Yeah! Thank you! I turned it all the way in and it went 2,25 turns. Now its back where it was. What is the recommended position?
That seems like a bit much unless you have lots of mods (cut airbox, aftermarket exhaust, etc.). My bike it completely stock and it runs at 1.5 turns out.
Best way to find where it should be is to run it and find where it doesn't hang above idle, and doesn't want to bog down or stall out.
Oh and +1 on the float needle or valve seat.
Just push out that pin that acts as a hinge.
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:58 AM   #15343
Teeeeeemu
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Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
That seems like a bit much unless you have lots of mods (cut airbox, aftermarket exhaust, etc.). My bike it completely stock and it runs at 1.5 turns out.
Best way to find where it should be is to run it and find where it doesn't hang above idle, and doesn't want to bog down or stall out.
Oh and +1 on the float needle or valve seat.
Just push out that pin that acts as a hinge.
I mentioned earlier that I have cut airbox and aftermarket exhaust. I forgot to mention the 80mm wiseco piston. Now that you mention, it sometimes hangs above idle and I checked the throttle cable which was fine.

Do I need to touch the other (idle adjustment) screw at all then? I think Ive read something about adjusting them together.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:05 AM   #15344
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Hanging above idle could also indicate an air leak in the manifold between the carb and the head....

As to adjusting the idle stop - the idea normally is to use the air screw at idle to find the best (fastest/smoothest) running, then adjust the idle stop down to spec...they're not related in the sense of adjusting fuel or air flow. So with the bike idling (and not overheating), adjust the air screw one way until it runs worse, then the other way until it runs well....keep going the same direction until it starts running worse again, then back off to a point between the two extremes where the idle is smoothest.....that's a good spot. Set your idle to spec at this point. You can then adjust up or down a little as suggested by others.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:52 AM   #15345
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
I mentioned earlier that I have cut airbox and aftermarket exhaust. I forgot to mention the 80mm wiseco piston. Now that you mention, it sometimes hangs above idle and I checked the throttle cable which was fine.

Do I need to touch the other (idle adjustment) screw at all then? I think Ive read something about adjusting them together.
With my original, worn pumper, it would sometimes hang above idle. It would be fine when the engine was cold, but would get worse and worse as the engine heated up. Sometimes I could blip the throttle and it would settle down a bit lower - most of the time not. It got worse and worse. I had gone through the carburetor and it was set up properly - just worn. I installed a new pumper and that problem was immediately rectified.

I bought the bike well used and I just figured that is the way they all ran. With a new carb, the bike finally "carbureted" properly and it was a huge improvement.

Would only a new slide have seen the same improvement? I don't know because I didn't try replacing only the slide. A new slide through Rocky Mountain ATV MC is $100. An entirely new carburetor through Viperizer Racing is $216. It seemed wise to spend a little over double for the entire new carburetor, and not risk remaining wear to the carburetor body (not just the slide).

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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