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Old 04-07-2013, 09:45 AM   #15391
SFC_Ren
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Originally Posted by brianjonesphoto View Post
Hey Ren here's one option http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/3715599489.html I've seen another engine in Vancouver bc lately too.
Thanks, I emailed the guy about the right side case. Kinda funny to tear the engine apart if nothings wrong with it. I did notice in the pics the magneto cover isn't shown though.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:46 AM   #15392
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Originally Posted by brianjonesphoto View Post
Hey Ren here's one option http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/3715599489.html I've seen another engine in Vancouver bc lately too.
Might want to get at least both halves. They're probably/might be matched.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:19 AM   #15393
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Might want to get at least both halves. They're probably/might be matched.
Yeah, I'm more than pretty sure that isn't the "case" haha. They are completely separate castings from Suzuki, and as long as they are either both the kickstart or both the e-start versions they should mate up no problem.

But, I just ordered a right side case off ebay for $110 bucks. and then a moose racing gasket kit too. So we'll see how my saga goes.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:05 AM   #15394
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Originally Posted by Chicken Helmet View Post
I thought JB Weld was a KLR secret.
Little known fact: Every new KLR comes from the factory with two keys, an owner's manual, a little tube of JB Weld and this.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:08 AM   #15395
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Originally Posted by SFC_Ren View Post
Well not sure what could have caused this but it sure is trashed.
If anyone has a good right side engine case from a kickstart model DR350 or DR350S or see's one on their local craigslist. Or has a spare motor let me know please.

I've seen this a few times, got two DR350's for next to nothing with the same issue. It's due to trying to start the bike without the decompression lever, or using it incorrectly. Ask Jesse at Kientech.com, he has probably seen a lot more.

The case halves are supposed to be replaced as a set.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:38 AM   #15396
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Originally Posted by tntmo View Post

The case halves are supposed to be replaced as a set.
Now admittedly my area of expertise as a mechanic for over 20 years is Heavy Diesels and automotive applications, but where did you get this information from and why do you think that the left and right cases are matched assemblies?

The factory service manual makes no mention of this fact and why are there separate part numbers for each side of the case? If it was intended to be a matched assembly then normally that is the only way they would sell it.

Thanks,
Ren
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:43 AM   #15397
Chicken Helmet
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Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Little known fact: Every new KLR comes from the factory with two keys, an owner's manual, a little tube of JB Weld and this.
I got it all but the owners manual with my used 09,
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:47 AM   #15398
2bold2getold
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Split crankcase motors with the crank shaft running along the split center line are machined to provide the required main bearing "crush", and should be kept in pairs. You MIGHT get away with replacing just one side on the DR motor, but you might want to check the crank shaft end play. Don't know about transmission end play, etc. Problem is I don't remember seeing a spec for crank shaft end play in the manual. Most of the motors I've worked on are set at .003" to .006". Might want to check that out.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:11 PM   #15399
2bold2getold
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Originally Posted by SFC_Ren View Post
Now admittedly my area of expertise as a mechanic for over 20 years is Heavy Diesels and automotive applications, but where did you get this information from and why do you think that the left and right cases are matched assemblies?

The factory service manual makes no mention of this fact and why are there separate part numbers for each side of the case? If it was intended to be a matched assembly then normally that is the only way they would sell it.

Thanks,
Ren
The places I looked, all sold them in sets.

http://www.suzukipart.com/oemparts/a...366c/crankcase

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr350-19...st/FIG-03.html

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model...3703-crankcase

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID..._MODEL_L_M_N_P
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:36 PM   #15400
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Split crankcase motors with the crank shaft running along the split center line are machined to provide the required main bearing "crush", and should be kept in pairs. You MIGHT get away with replacing just one side on the DR motor, but you might want to check the crank shaft end play. Don't know about transmission end play, etc. Problem is I don't remember seeing a spec for crank shaft end play in the manual. Most of the motors I've worked on are set at .003" to .006". Might want to check that out.
It's a roller bearing crank and there is no end play measurement. It is also not a design where the crank bearings are surrounded "and crushed" by the opposite sides of the case. The crank is left to right through the case. This is not a BMW boxer motor or a VW air cooled motor which both have the design I believe you are referring to. Maybe that is what you are thinking of? But hey I guess I'll find out after putting everything back together. I'll update this thread then.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:41 PM   #15401
SFC_Ren
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Split crankcase motors with the crank shaft running along the split center line .
But the key to your above statement, and maybe I wasn't clear in my other reply. Is that this motor is not split with the crankshaft running along the center line, like BMW boxer motors or old air cooled VW's. Maybe I said this more clearly now. :-)
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:49 PM   #15402
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Originally Posted by SFC_Ren View Post
But the key to your above statement, and maybe I wasn't clear in my other reply. Is that this motor is not split with the crankshaft running along the center line, like BMW boxer motors or old air cooled VW's. Maybe I said this more clearly now. :-)
Yes, I understand. Just thought that there might be more problems associated with mixing crankcases than meets the eye, and if you were going to buy some used parts off CL you might as well get both halves. Didn't think it would cost that much more. It's probably going to work out fine.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:03 PM   #15403
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front sproket

does anyone know if a 15 tooth sprocket will fit under the 1991 s model front cover? I have the 14 thats stock and not sure if it will have enough room if there was an extra tooth
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:16 PM   #15404
SFC_Ren
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Yes, I understand. Just thought that there might be more problems associated with mixing crankcases than meets the eye, and if you were going to buy some used parts off CL you might as well get both halves. Didn't think it would cost that much more. It's probably going to work out fine.
No problem and thanks for the advice!
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:18 PM   #15405
SFC_Ren
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Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
does anyone know if a 15 tooth sprocket will fit under the 1991 s model front cover? I have the 14 thats stock and not sure if it will have enough room if there was an extra tooth
When I put a 15 tooth on my 1990 s model I had to clearance the case saver slightly with a dremel but it all fit back on there just fine to include the cover.
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