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Old 04-10-2013, 01:28 AM   #15451
haggeo
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: oakland, ca
Oddometer: 881
Quote:
Originally Posted by tkent02 View Post
Just unscrew the cap and see if it runs better.
i did that but not while it was bogging down, the new cap is due in today.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:59 AM   #15452
Hungry Valley
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Location: Lytle Creek
Oddometer: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Are you refering to the counter balance pin thing. Not sure this looks liek that kind of failure. I think that would be alot worse. Someone mentioned that this looks like a kickstart without using the decomp case failure.
Yes I was thinking counter balancer pin.Just a thought.
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:55 AM   #15453
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,853
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
Wow, you did make a little mess, but ya aint got me beat yet..lol (lets just say that this one time at caterpillar camp, 300 gallons of hydraulic oil SOMEHOW managed to leak outta a 992...THAT was a disaster...Catastrophic type situation...lol) But anyhow, your sleeve thingy...ok so heat aint doing it, and if welding on it wont (which...it might?..but usually that works better if the inside area is void...as in an "outter" bearing race"?) id get a cut off wheel, plug the holes with rags, and slice it VERY close to the shaft...then use a chisel to VIOLENTLY, but carefully split the collar... Use a Dremel tool if ya got one!! TRY that if all else fails.... dunno what else to suggest?
Grinding, cutting, chisels - All seems like last resort stuff to me. He did say he hadn't yet tried very much heat. Put a propane torch on that sucker till it smokes (heat it from both sides) - then grab it with a pair of pump pliers or even just leather welding gloves. I'm willing to bet it comes right off.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:37 PM   #15454
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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The spacer did start to smoke. But I could have turned the flame up and held it there longer. Oh well till next time I do battle with the spacer. I have a feeling that motor is in terrible shape. Everything off that particular bike was beat to hell.

I finally had a chance to make a radio shack run. Bought myself a double pole double throw on/on toggle switch. This I will use in lue of my stock keyed ignition, which is currently on the bastard child DR. The stock igntion has 6 wires coming off it. Only four seem to be of real use. Two for power and two for kill. The bike does not die when you simply kill the power, and the power is really for the starter and lights. With a DPDT I can kill the bike with the primary on switch in the off postion. At lease I think this will work. Was not exactly sure what the Gr adn Br wires do when the ignition is in the "on" position. I think it has to do with turning on the tail light but I am not sure. Anyone?


As a feeler: would anyone be interseted in buying a RM triple with a DR steer stem. This would be the heart of a RM fork swap. The only part that is not bolt on. I might be willing to make another if someone wanted to buy this on and do a fork swap. I would also provide detailed instuctions and possible a sheet metal dash that I am in the proccess of compelting. You would need to buy all the rest of the bits:
-96-98 RM fork legs-standard showa 49mm double chamber
-RM front wheel and axle
-Brake caliper, rm, drz dr650 all use the same nissin caliper
-DRZ400 headlight mounting brackets.
The stock DR350 headlight cowl, headlight, fender, brakeline/MC can all be reused.
Turnsignals mounts in the picture are temp.



MrPulldown screwed with this post 04-10-2013 at 04:01 PM
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:03 PM   #15455
mustangwagz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242

Happy 7005th birthday to my bike today. lol Celebrated by changing oil, filter, o rings, and checking the screen. Also pulled out the stupid K&N air filter to give it a bath...soon imma get a uni-filter...i dont care for them K&N filters but thats soley my opinion! haha. Anyhow, 7005 and still counting!
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:18 PM   #15456
Airvent
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Oxford, Connecticut
Oddometer: 347
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post

Happy 7005th birthday to my bike today. lol Celebrated by changing oil, filter, o rings, and checking the screen. Also pulled out the stupid K&N air filter to give it a bath...soon imma get a uni-filter...i dont care for them K&N filters but thats soley my opinion! haha. Anyhow, 7005 and still counting!
Thats not even broken in yet
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:20 AM   #15457
cwc
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Oddometer: 907
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post

I finally had a chance to make a radio shack run. Bought myself a double pole double throw on/on toggle switch. This I will use in lue of my stock keyed ignition, which is currently on the bastard child DR. The stock igntion has 6 wires coming off it. Only four seem to be of real use. Two for power and two for kill. The bike does not die when you simply kill the power, and the power is really for the starter and lights. With a DPDT I can kill the bike with the primary on switch in the off postion. At lease I think this will work. Was not exactly sure what the Gr adn Br wires do when the ignition is in the "on" position. I think it has to do with turning on the tail light but I am not sure. Anyone?

The grey wire is connected to the Orange wire elsewhere in the harness. It supplies power to the brown wire which runs the tail, license pl and parking(if fitted) lights when the switch is in the "ON" position. This allows them to be powered separately when the switch is in "PARK"

If you didn't care about the "PARK" function you could just connect the Brown wire to the Orange at the switch to get the tail light to work.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:57 AM   #15458
MattR302
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: New Haven-ish, CT
Oddometer: 76
I'm pulling my 98 SE out of hibernation for the past year. I'm looking to replace the 6+ year old D606's with something more street-friendly, something capable of handling medium-pace corners on rides with my sportbike-riding friends. Anybody have any recommendations for a 90-95% street tire? Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:07 PM   #15459
Nortonbrian
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Barber Museum AL
Oddometer: 32
Carb woes

I cant help noticing that many owners are suffering carb problems. I had a bad running 1999 SE, surging and cutting out. Replaced the O ring that retains the float needle seat, and then checked the float level accurately. I counterbored the small float bowl drain hole, made a small alloy spigot on my lathe and epoxy it to the bowl. A piece of small bore clear tubing slipped over the spigot and taped to the side of the carb will give you a very accurate reading of where the actual level is. Set the level and the bike runs perfect. Worked for me.
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:37 PM   #15460
ADV BUM
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It finally arrived. It is 3+ weeks overdue, so I was getting worried. Benny from Sweden is awesome! I love ebay and craigslist.

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Old 04-11-2013, 01:57 PM   #15461
Farmer Palmer
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Joined: May 2006
Location: East Lothian, Scotland
Oddometer: 254
Quote:
Originally Posted by dav_dman View Post
yeah thats my #1 guess too, been there. But also try running it on reserve only and see if it does it..petcock could be messed up.
Same here..........Filled up my Acerbis tank and made it about four miles before the bike coughed and died!

The fuel cap breather pipe had a kink in it so I unscrewed the cap and undid the kink in the pipe and she was good to go!

FP.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:34 PM   #15462
travis789
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
It finally arrived. It is 3+ weeks overdue, so I was getting worried. Benny from Sweden is awesome! I love ebay and craigslist.


Sweet! I was looking into one of those but I stopped counting when the dollar amount of the oem parts got to 600$. Are those still readily available in europe?
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:26 PM   #15463
Spad
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Location: Vermont
Oddometer: 97
Popping in with update on my 99DR350SE unbuild-rebuild-unbuild-rebuild clutch/engine project. Got it all apart, replaced shift drum bolt and fixed crank pin, reassembled. Oops. Transmission not meshing, wouldn't shift. Unbuild/rebuild 2. Now, shifts great and clutch doesn't drag like it did when I got it. It starts OK, runs well until I push in the choke. Suspicion 1 (verify/correct as necessary): the carb that sat all winter needs to be well cleaned. While running, it sounds a lot louder/messier than when I started. Almost sounds dry. Valves are in spec at high end of range, it's full of oil. [Sorry, no audio file attached] but I hear the engine as much if not more than the exhaust. Like it has asthma. Suggestions? Cam chain tensioner? Check that oil is circulating? How?

Ideas welcome, I wanna ride this thing rather than look at it in pieces like I've been doing but I don't want to cook the engine through impatience. On the bright side, I'm now OK at removing and disassembling the engine on this. Apparently still need work on assembly.

- Spad
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:32 PM   #15464
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,225
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spad View Post
Popping in with update on my 99DR350SE unbuild-rebuild-unbuild-rebuild clutch/engine project. Got it all apart, replaced shift drum bolt and fixed crank pin, reassembled. Oops. Transmission not meshing, wouldn't shift. Unbuild/rebuild 2. Now, shifts great and clutch doesn't drag like it did when I got it. It starts OK, runs well until I push in the choke. Suspicion 1 (verify/correct as necessary): the carb that sat all winter needs to be well cleaned. While running, it sounds a lot louder/messier than when I started. Almost sounds dry. Valves are in spec at high end of range, it's full of oil. [Sorry, no audio file attached] but I hear the engine as much if not more than the exhaust. Like it has asthma. Suggestions? Cam chain tensioner? Check that oil is circulating? How?

Ideas welcome, I wanna ride this thing rather than look at it in pieces like I've been doing but I don't want to cook the engine through impatience. On the bright side, I'm now OK at removing and disassembling the engine on this. Apparently still need work on assembly.

- Spad
Maybe you need the breather tube for the top of the gearbox? That could make a strange noise, plus the hole in the intake boot where the hose should go could cause it to run crappy without choke.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:34 PM   #15465
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,225
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
It finally arrived. It is 3+ weeks overdue, so I was getting worried. Benny from Sweden is awesome! I love ebay and craigslist.

I've been wanting to do that! How much did it all run for? What year bike is it going on? Let us know how it goes!
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