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Old 04-19-2013, 06:43 PM   #15541
DR350seKING
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: pittsburgh pa
Oddometer: 68
1999 DR350se how to choose what "jets" to use?

hey guys im new to this place so here it goes. i just picked up a 99 DR350se it has a FMF powercore4 on it and i was told that it was not jetted yet so does anyone know or have this pipe that can help me with the right jet. I was out riding today and it feels like it bogs down when accelerating. Also can anyone tell me where does the tool box bolt to i cant seem to find the right place it would go (i may just be missing it). last thing does anyone know what type of bulb goes behind the tach thanks guys

info: 1999 DR350se 100072 miles
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:22 PM   #15542
Tork
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Location: Duvall, WA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR350seKING View Post
hey guys im new to this place so here it goes. i just picked up a 99 DR350se it has a FMF powercore4 on it and i was told that it was not jetted yet so does anyone know or have this pipe that can help me with the right jet. I was out riding today and it feels like it bogs down when accelerating. Also can anyone tell me where does the tool box bolt to i cant seem to find the right place it would go (i may just be missing it). last thing does anyone know what type of bulb goes behind the tach thanks guys

info: 1999 DR350se 100072 miles
Welcome , I do not have a DR350 yet . Just wanted to say your mileage on yours is impressive
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:23 PM   #15543
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR350seKING View Post
hey guys im new to this place so here it goes. i just picked up a 99 DR350se it has a FMF powercore4 on it and i was told that it was not jetted yet so does anyone know or have this pipe that can help me with the right jet. I was out riding today and it feels like it bogs down when accelerating. Also can anyone tell me where does the tool box bolt to i cant seem to find the right place it would go (i may just be missing it). last thing does anyone know what type of bulb goes behind the tach thanks guys

info: 1999 DR350se 100072 miles
First I would make sure the jets haven't been changed. "Boggs" can be either rich or lean. You will probably have to try jets on both sides to test for improved performance. Plug color might give an indication of which way to go. Tool carrier goes on left side just behind the side cover plastic below the rear frame/sub frame loop. Manual says tack light is 3 watt.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 04-19-2013 at 07:28 PM
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:53 PM   #15544
travis789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tork View Post
Welcome , I do not have a DR350 yet . Just wanted to say your mileage on yours is impressive
I wouldn't be that surprised if its true!
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:55 PM   #15545
travis789
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hi mileage

from thumpertalk: "'m fresh to TT so I haven't been able to read every post there is to read yet. Anyway my problem is I've noticed a distressing number of 10 year old low mileage bikes. I'm talking 2,000 to 5,000 miles! I have a '94 dr350ser that just rolled over 143,000 mi. It's bone stock except for a jet kit and 3.7 gal fuel tank (come on Suz 2.1 gal? pleez!)"
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:23 AM   #15546
jakeybob
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My Dr350 was hard to find neutral when I first got it. I pulled apart the clutch, removed the shift drum bolt and loctited it down (it was tight when I removed it), changed the thrust washers and retorqued my clutch baskets back down to 30ft lbs.

At first it seemed like neutral was pretty easy to find, but when it heats up it is very hard to find again.

I pulled it apart again today to see if i needed to clearance the clutch basket, but it appears to be good.

There is a slight amount of play in the outer clutch basket, and the inner clutch basket spins freely by hand with the plates removed.

Anyone have any ideas? am I correct in my assessment that my clutch basket doesn't need clearancing right now? (by the small amount of play in the outer and the free spinning inner?)

Everything seems good so I am a little perplexed.

Thanks
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:47 AM   #15547
dav_dman
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mine was like that. Turn it off and it's easy, so there is something in the rotating assemblies and spacing...might even be in the adjustment of the clutch cable and how much/little play. someone will chime in soon and let us know exactly.

I have a dr450 out at my brothers now in wash state but i've not ridden it yet (hurry up july when i go visit again) so i dont know if it has that issue or not....

Dave
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:13 AM   #15548
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeybob View Post
My Dr350 was hard to find neutral when I first got it. I pulled apart the clutch, removed the shift drum bolt and loctited it down (it was tight when I removed it), changed the thrust washers and retorqued my clutch baskets back down to 30ft lbs.

At first it seemed like neutral was pretty easy to find, but when it heats up it is very hard to find again.

I pulled it apart again today to see if i needed to clearance the clutch basket, but it appears to be good.

There is a slight amount of play in the outer clutch basket, and the inner clutch basket spins freely by hand with the plates removed.

Anyone have any ideas? am I correct in my assessment that my clutch basket doesn't need clearancing right now? (by the small amount of play in the outer and the free spinning inner?)

Everything seems good so I am a little perplexed.

Thanks
I've had 6 or 7 DR350 bikes. The clutch dragged to one degree or another on all of them. I think it's a "feature" of this bike. FWIW, they removed this feature when designing the second generation DR650.
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:13 AM   #15549
Schneiderman
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 13
Hey guys. I just picked up a 1993 DR350, that supposedly was a street model-turned-dirt, and I'm trying to bring it back to the street. I need to order a bunch of parts ASAP and hope to start working on it next week.

So far I know I need:

Rear brake rotor (it's shot!) and pads front and rear
Carb rebuild kit (more on this in a minute)
At least one mirror (ultimately I want two good mirrors but I just need one to get it street legal ASAP)
Street tires

First question: The carb. From what I have read, my bike should have a CV carb. But it looks like I have the pumper. The bike has been butchered by an amateur so someone probably just threw a pumper on there at some point in the past 20 years, but I don't even know if it is installed correctly. Can anyone identify this carb, tell me if there's anything noticeably wrong about the install, and what carb rebuild kit I need for it?



Next up... what do you recommend for a replacement rear brake rotor? I'm not really looking for an upgrade, just need a decent/cost effective replacement that will work and not get me killed.

And how about pads? Need front and rear.



Also, what tires for the street? I bought this bike to use as a city commuter bike. It will see no real dirt time. What street tires will work well on the stock rims?

I will also probably need guidance on rewiring the lights. The turn signals came in a box, it has Baja Designs headlight and taillight that are not hooked up. There are wires hanging loose behind the headlight so the wiring may hopefully be intact but I don't know yet....

Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:04 PM   #15550
jakeybob
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You could probably buy any brake rotor and it wouldnt really matter. Get something off ebay, or if you want OEM go to bikebandit.com and order one up.

Get some sintered brake pads- HH or EBC or something. Buy a cheap mirror off ebay.

Can't tell for sure what carb you have from that pic. Looks kind of like a pumper.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/716...readfor-a-350/

As far as tires, just buy whatever you feel like in the stock size. I bought shinko 244's cause they are cheap ($85 a set), but thats more of a 50/50 tire.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:18 PM   #15551
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeybob View Post
My Dr350 was hard to find neutral when I first got it. I pulled apart the clutch, removed the shift drum bolt and loctited it down (it was tight when I removed it), changed the thrust washers and retorqued my clutch baskets back down to 30ft lbs.

At first it seemed like neutral was pretty easy to find, but when it heats up it is very hard to find again.

I pulled it apart again today to see if i needed to clearance the clutch basket, but it appears to be good.

There is a slight amount of play in the outer clutch basket, and the inner clutch basket spins freely by hand with the plates removed.

Anyone have any ideas? am I correct in my assessment that my clutch basket doesn't need clearancing right now? (by the small amount of play in the outer and the free spinning inner?)

Everything seems good so I am a little perplexed.

Thanks
you might also try putting in a new spacer. the one between good to thrust washers. like the thrust washers this is a where item.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:57 PM   #15552
jakeybob
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Yeah shoulda bought that dumb spacer the first time I did things :P Didn't realize it could use replacing at the time.

I just buttoned stuff back up for now. May just ride/deal with it.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:25 PM   #15553
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR350seKING View Post
hey guys im new to this place so here it goes. i just picked up a 99 DR350se it has a FMF powercore4 on it and i was told that it was not jetted yet so does anyone know or have this pipe that can help me with the right jet. I was out riding today and it feels like it bogs down when accelerating. Also can anyone tell me where does the tool box bolt to i cant seem to find the right place it would go (i may just be missing it). last thing does anyone know what type of bulb goes behind the tach thanks guys

info: 1999 DR350se 100072 miles
At over 100K miles, the slide guide, emulsion tube, slide and perhaps jet needle are pretty much guaranteed to be worn out. Emulsion tube wear causes a rich condition at the lower end of the rpm range.

You can determine whether it is a lean or a rich problem by checking if the problem gets better or worse as the engine warms up, and/or when you activate the cold start enrichment circuit.

If you determine that it's a lean problem, I don't necessarily think that would let you off the hook on the wear. The carburetor could have a combination of issues, such as clogged pilot jet together with the aforementioned worn out parts.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:31 PM   #15554
kobukan
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
Oddometer: 1,698
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeybob View Post
My Dr350 was hard to find neutral when I first got it. I pulled apart the clutch, removed the shift drum bolt and loctited it down (it was tight when I removed it), changed the thrust washers and retorqued my clutch baskets back down to 30ft lbs.

At first it seemed like neutral was pretty easy to find, but when it heats up it is very hard to find again.

I pulled it apart again today to see if i needed to clearance the clutch basket, but it appears to be good.

There is a slight amount of play in the outer clutch basket, and the inner clutch basket spins freely by hand with the plates removed.

Anyone have any ideas? am I correct in my assessment that my clutch basket doesn't need clearancing right now? (by the small amount of play in the outer and the free spinning inner?)

Everything seems good so I am a little perplexed.

Thanks
Make sure the clutch cable has almost no free play - particularly when the bike is all warmed up. May not be the problem, but it could be.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:52 PM   #15555
Blakebird
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Location: Parker, CO
Oddometer: 15,665
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeybob View Post
Get some sintered brake pads- HH or EBC or something.
HH is a compound, EBC is a brand.
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