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Old 04-24-2013, 06:19 PM   #15601
thump!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,107
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I think the Baja Designs unit is intended to upgrade the 70 watt single phase offroad model. I'm not sure about the exact output of the "S" model stator but would have to be close to 200 watts. Mine runs all the OEM lights plus an electric vest and heated grips and still maintains 14 volts at anything over about 2500 rpms. I don't run a battery so at idle the lights dim when the turn signals cycle but at riding speeds no problems.
Just thinking about total wattage. Headlight - 60, taillight - 5, miscellaneous - maybe 10, heated grips - 35, electric vest - 55. In truth I've never run the vest on maximum output but it's a cycling controller so when it's on, it's on. So, that's 165 watts. Don't know how much more capacity remains but at riding speeds, it will hold 13.5-14 volts with all that stuff on.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:32 PM   #15602
kobukan
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storyteller View Post
So, nuts and bolts from those that have the trail version....

would I go wrong in selecting the trail, all things considered. I have a DL650 for the nicety things....I think I will be good with the trail version...

I had a WR400 that I had converted and didn't have a battery either....I still kick myself for selling that one!
I have a '99 dirt model converted to street legal. I'm running the stock AC electrical system - no battery. It runs a Vapor speedo and all the necessary components to be street legal; high & low beam headlight, turn signals, tail light, brake light, plate light, horn. I also wired in a Powerlet outlet to run heated gloves and it works well. I almost never ride at night so I run a 35w headlight to save power. At idle it just barely generates enough power to run things, but it works. I've occasionally thought about getting a street version, but for my purposes I like the dirt model - it's simple and weighs about 30 lbs less than the street model.

Here's mine
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:35 PM   #15603
haggeo
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: oakland, ca
Oddometer: 872
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Just thinking about total wattage. Headlight - 60, taillight - 5, miscellaneous - maybe 10, heated grips - 35, electric vest - 55. In truth I've never run the vest on maximum output but it's a cycling controller so when it's on, it's on. So, that's 165 watts. Don't know how much more capacity remains but at riding speeds, it will hold 13.5-14 volts with all that stuff on.
thanks for the info, i've been wondering about this and not finding good info. i had an 8" race light on my XR650R and loved it, so did my riding buddies at night, i'll probably put some kind of brighter light on my SE.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:05 PM   #15604
Storyteller
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Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
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Ok. .checked...

Out the 1993 trail dr350. All was pretty well....not a garage queen, until I noticed a glistening around the front left set of cylinder fins. Appears some oil is "weeping"..aka leaking from around the front left bolt/seam by the oil vertical oil hose....looks like the base of the head -

Maybe a dumb question....would that most likely be the head gasket?
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:18 PM   #15605
Storyteller
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Oh...

And what would expect to pay for a "pumper" carb to put on a 93 street model?
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:18 PM   #15606
cnj
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Joined: May 2008
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Recently? The stop plating dirt bikes in Ca in 2004. I guess if you have a plated dirt bike which was done pre04 they will still allow it.

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/ohvdualreg.htm
THIS. No more street plated dirt bikes in CA since '04. If you did happen to get one through, you are on borrowed time.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:36 PM   #15607
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,209
Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
I have a '99 dirt model converted to street legal. I'm running the stock AC electrical system - no battery. It runs a Vapor speedo and all the necessary components to be street legal; high & low beam headlight, turn signals, tail light, brake light, plate light, horn. I also wired in a Powerlet outlet to run heated gloves and it works well. I almost never ride at night so I run a 35w headlight to save power. At idle it just barely generates enough power to run things, but it works. I've occasionally thought about getting a street version, but for my purposes I like the dirt model - it's simple and weighs about 30 lbs less than the street model.

Here's mine
Nice rig! How'd you get the wolfman bags mounted, what rack do you have. Hows the windscreen?
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:38 PM   #15608
Suzuki Phil
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Oddometer: 623
Quote:
Originally Posted by culliganman View Post
The bike will only run when choke is out + massive backfiring, lean for sure. Carb was cleaned and re cleaned every part of it! valves where a tad loose but nothing to cause this. All fuel has been replaced with fresh stuff, there have been some good suggestions on here and I will be working on it more this weekend.
If your DR is a California model and has a CV carb look on the right side (clutch side) of the carburetor. You will see two ports that have to be plugged. One is ported vacuum and the other has vacuum all the time. If these are not plugged your bike will run like crap just as you describe. I'm not sure if the non California bikes had these ports or not.

Good Luck,

SP
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:46 AM   #15609
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,122
Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
I have a '99 dirt model converted to street legal. I'm running the stock AC electrical system - no battery. It runs a Vapor speedo and all the necessary components to be street legal; high & low beam headlight, turn signals, tail light, brake light, plate light, horn. I also wired in a Powerlet outlet to run heated gloves and it works well. I almost never ride at night so I run a 35w headlight to save power. At idle it just barely generates enough power to run things, but it works. I've occasionally thought about getting a street version, but for my purposes I like the dirt model - it's simple and weighs about 30 lbs less than the street model.

Here's mine
I'm impressed! Just to confirm, your heated grips and vapor speedometer operate on A/C power (*not* converted to D/C). Correct?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:49 AM   #15610
kobukan
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
Oddometer: 1,695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Nice rig! How'd you get the wolfman bags mounted, what rack do you have. Hows the windscreen?
Wolfman bags are mounted on a TCI Denali Rack. This rack has proven to be much stronger than it looks - very durable. It's kind of a big rack so if you like to run without bags sometimes it may not be a good option. It doesn't really seem to weigh much, it just sticks out more than you might like without bags on. I leave bags on my bike all the time so it works for me. A great rack for dual sport touring on the DR350 imo, but they aren't cheap!

The windshield is a Slip Stream S06 Spitfire. It works well for me. I like that it can be removed/reinstalled in about a minute. I take it off in the summer unless I'm going any distance at speeds over 50 mph. Below 50 mph the wind doesn't seem bad on the DR350, but much over 50 mph and it's horrible - I feel like a human parachute. The windshield makes a huge difference. They're relatively inexpensive - about $75 or less.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I'm impressed! Just to confirm, your heated grips and vapor speedometer operate on A/C power (*not* converted to D/C). Correct?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
No heated grips - Powerlet outlet to run heated gloves. Gerbing G3 gloves and Vapor speedo both running on A/C - not converted to D/C. I've put about 15k miles on the bike since I got it a few years ago. The Vapor has been on it for about 10k miles, and I wired the Powerlet outlet in a couple years ago.
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'04 R1150GS, '97 R1100GS, '99 DR350, '02 DR650, '03 DR650
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A Maine Rider’s Arizona Day Trips
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:09 PM   #15611
travis789
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storyteller View Post
Out the 1993 trail dr350. All was pretty well....not a garage queen, until I noticed a glistening around the front left set of cylinder fins. Appears some oil is "weeping"..aka leaking from around the front left bolt/seam by the oil vertical oil hose....looks like the base of the head -

Maybe a dumb question....would that most likely be the head gasket?
There is an oil galley in there that takes an o-ring, I recently read about a guy who forgot to put the o-ring in and it filled the cylinder with oil. Are you sure its not the oil line fitting? It would seem a more likely culprit. If it does require removing the cam, head, and cylinder, would that be within your capabilities? It shouldn't take more than 8 hours if you've done it before, provided you have all the new gaskets you'll need and don't run into problems. do you think it might go away by removing the cam cover and retorquing the head? The clymer manual recommends doing this pretty frequently.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:21 PM   #15612
haggeo
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Location: oakland, ca
Oddometer: 872
i was all excited to get my exhaust back from getting modified at Kientech until i saw UPS had a go at it too


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Old 04-25-2013, 03:35 PM   #15613
SFC_Ren
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Location: Salem,Oregon
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There are no O-rings between the block/cylinder/head unless somebody did some aftermarket machining for super high compression. I just tore my entire motor apart and put it back together, as well as I just checked the parts manual and there are no mystery o-ring's on the engine itself or in the parts manual anywhere between the cylinder and block or between the head and cylinder. Maybe, you're thinking of the steel inserts that are referred to as "PIN" in the parts manual because they do act as oil galleries between the block/cylinder/head around the bolts for pressurized oil to go from the pump up to the head to lubricate the camshaft area. If those "PINs" aren't installed a "LOT" of high pressure oil will be going places it shouldn't be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by travis789 View Post
There is an oil galley in there that takes an o-ring, I recently read about a guy who forgot to put the o-ring in and it filled the cylinder with oil. Are you sure its not the oil line fitting? It would seem a more likely culprit. If it does require removing the cam, head, and cylinder, would that be within your capabilities? It shouldn't take more than 8 hours if you've done it before, provided you have all the new gaskets you'll need and don't run into problems. do you think it might go away by removing the cam cover and retorquing the head? The clymer manual recommends doing this pretty frequently.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:41 PM   #15614
jackanory
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Location: NH
Oddometer: 476


joined the club. Picked this up yesterday. 1990 350s with 4600 miles. Needs some TLC but for the price I couldn't pass it up.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:45 PM   #15615
travis789
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by SFC_Ren View Post
There are no O-rings between the block/cylinder/head unless somebody did some aftermarket machining for super high compression. I just tore my entire motor apart and put it back together, as well as I just checked the parts manual and there are no mystery o-ring's on the engine itself or in the parts manual anywhere between the cylinder and block or between the head and cylinder. Maybe, you're thinking of the steel inserts that are referred to as "PIN" in the parts manual because they do act as oil galleries between the block/cylinder/head around the bolts for pressurized oil to go from the pump up to the head to lubricate the camshaft area. If those "PINs" aren't installed a "LOT" of high pressure oil will be going places it shouldn't be.
you're correct, that's what it was, the guy left the pin out. sorry
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