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Old 04-27-2013, 07:08 PM   #15631
Suzuki Phil
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Oddometer: 624
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I believe the forks, wheel, brakes and everything I got are off a '04 RMZ250. Will this still work?
The RMX and DR have quite a few parts that interchange i.e. forks and rear suspension with minimal modification. You could start by looking at the bearings your DR uses and the RMZ take for the stem, to see if the stem diameter is the same. Then you'll need to measure the height of the stem to see if they match. This means disassembly of your DR unless you can get your hands on a stock steering stem to measure.

Remember the RMZ250 is a light weight bike compared to our DR's so you might consider stiffer springs in the future.

SP
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:26 PM   #15632
smc5735
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Carburetor screw

Alright, so I'm sure every one has their own story of having a 'bad day.' Well, mine was today. On my way to go riding with my buddy and his CRF450x, my 97 dr350se's "plug drain" decided it wanted to say its goodbyes to me.

Long story short, and long a walk home (2.5 miles uphill), I just want some insight to make sure its the correct one to purchase on my pumper carb.

It is # 8 on this diagram: http://www.bikebandit.com/1997-suzuk...22231sch241247

More importantly, #33 on the diagram, I do not have that hose there. Is there supposed to be one? And does that hose just flow out to the bottom of the bike/frame to drain?

Thank you in advance. I need a beer.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:04 PM   #15633
Teeeeeemu
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Yeah its a drain hose. I dont have it either anymore, only the 2 on the sides.

Youre looking at the CV carb and you said you have the pumper. Heres a link for the dirt carb:
http://www.bikebandit.com/1997-suzuk...9218#sch239925

The screws look the same on both carbs tho
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:31 PM   #15634
markk900
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...and those screws were used on a bunch of Suzuki models so they are easily available at the dealer and other places - I just replaced mine due to a messed up head..
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:12 PM   #15635
smc5735
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Thanks for the heads up about the dealer. I was planning on checking them out before I order something online.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:21 PM   #15636
_CJ
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Location: The 719, Yo.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _CJ View Post

Just a follow-up...got out on the bike for about six hours today including high speed pavement, quad trail (with one wreck which messed up the gas tank, but not the muffler), 4x4 trails, and dirt roads. Everything worked great. About half as loud as the previously muffler, but still sounds nice. Power seems more linear, it used to be very progressive. All in all, I'm pleased with the results. Oh, and the rack worked well too. Bolts didn't vibrate loose or anything.

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Old 04-28-2013, 07:59 PM   #15637
Schneiderman
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So I have to ask about a topic that I already know has already been covered a lot... I've searched the forum and read a lot of posts and I'm still not getting it about the decomp lever.

I bought a 1993 dr350 last week, originally thought it was a Street model but now I have confirmed it is the dirt model. I was able to start it when I went to buy it, and once when I got it home, now I can't get it started again.

I've seen a lot of posts saying to pull the decomp lever in, let go of it, push the kick starter until the lever pops out, then kick hard. My decomp lever seems to pop out as soon as you move the kick starter, no matter where the piston is. Then if I try to kick without it I get compression and bust my ankle (got bit bad twice now).

Bike has gas, petcock on, choke on, etc...

Does the fact that my decomp lever pops out immediately indicate that the cable is adjusted incorrectly?

Am I supposed to kick hard with the decomp lever pulled in or not? I've busted my ankle twice already. I don't feel like owning a bike that will bust my ankle every time I try to ride it.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:06 PM   #15638
tonusmaximus
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Location: nky
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Try kicking it slowly with decomp.lever out until it gets very hard which is top dead center. Pull in the lever and slowly move the piston just past that. release lever and let kickstart come all the way back up then give it a good kick.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:27 PM   #15639
R'oli
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Durham Region, Ontario, Canada
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I have an old 91 DR Dirt, it has an odometer,no speedo.
Is the street version speedo gearing/ internals similar?
Can I simply remove the odometer and replace it with a speedo assembly?
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:35 AM   #15640
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R'oli View Post
I have an old 91 DR Dirt, it has an odometer,no speedo.
Is the street version speedo gearing/ internals similar?
Can I simply remove the odometer and replace it with a speedo assembly?
Speedo drive is on the front wheel so gearing is irrelevant. FWIW The dirt model CDI has no tachometer output.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:17 AM   #15641
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schneiderman View Post
So I have to ask about a topic that I already know has already been covered a lot... I've searched the forum and read a lot of posts and I'm still not getting it about the decomp lever.

I bought a 1993 dr350 last week, originally thought it was a Street model but now I have confirmed it is the dirt model. I was able to start it when I went to buy it, and once when I got it home, now I can't get it started again.

I've seen a lot of posts saying to pull the decomp lever in, let go of it, push the kick starter until the lever pops out, then kick hard. My decomp lever seems to pop out as soon as you move the kick starter, no matter where the piston is. Then if I try to kick without it I get compression and bust my ankle (got bit bad twice now).

Bike has gas, petcock on, choke on, etc...

Does the fact that my decomp lever pops out immediately indicate that the cable is adjusted incorrectly?

Am I supposed to kick hard with the decomp lever pulled in or not? I've busted my ankle twice already. I don't feel like owning a bike that will bust my ankle every time I try to ride it.
Ahh kickstarting the DR. Okay here's my method that starts my bike cold every time. I have the pumper carb.

Full choke, pull decomp while giving throttle and kick it like 5-10 times. This primes the cylinder.
Slowly push the kickstart lever until I get resistance from compression.
Jump on it. (NO THROTTLE!)
If you do it properly you'll never have your leg suddenly stopped (trust me I know your pain)
Just don't kick it wherever it is in the stroke. That's when you'll kill your ankle and I did it like that for a while before I knew how to start it and I never got it started once like that.

You'll get used to it, just gotta get the method down.
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:35 AM   #15642
jmderyke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schneiderman View Post
So I have to ask about a topic that I already know has already been covered a lot... I've searched the forum and read a lot of posts and I'm still not getting it about the decomp lever.

I bought a 1993 dr350 last week, originally thought it was a Street model but now I have confirmed it is the dirt model. I was able to start it when I went to buy it, and once when I got it home, now I can't get it started again.

I've seen a lot of posts saying to pull the decomp lever in, let go of it, push the kick starter until the lever pops out, then kick hard. My decomp lever seems to pop out as soon as you move the kick starter, no matter where the piston is. Then if I try to kick without it I get compression and bust my ankle (got bit bad twice now).

Bike has gas, petcock on, choke on, etc...

Does the fact that my decomp lever pops out immediately indicate that the cable is adjusted incorrectly?

Am I supposed to kick hard with the decomp lever pulled in or not? I've busted my ankle twice already. I don't feel like owning a bike that will bust my ankle every time I try to ride it.
I just picked up a Dr and had the same problem. The best thing to do is run lower octane (regular) gasoline its more flammable than higher octane (premium) and makes starting way easier. Then just do what everyone else is saying about starting
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:07 AM   #15643
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
I just picked up a Dr and had the same problem. The best thing to do is run lower octane (regular) gasoline its more flammable than higher octane (premium) and makes starting way easier. Then just do what everyone else is saying about starting
Someone that understands what octane does.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:15 AM   #15644
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suzuki Phil View Post
If you use a late 90's Suzuki RMX forks nothing needs to be done except a new upper bearing and turn the top nut down by .125". My DR has a set of forks from a 96 RMX250. I had the tabs that hold the odometer welded to the stock RMX upper clamp, looks all factory. You will need the RMX wheel and brake caliper also.

SP
The age old question of which forks will work with my DR. You really need to know your forks.
As far as I know the 90's RMX forks are all right side up (RSU?). Early 90s are the same as the 43mm cartridge forks found on the 98-99DR350. The later year ones are 47mm? RSU version.

The 04 RMZ or X forks Rugged has are USD forks. From what I foudn doing my 98 RM250 (49mm RSUswap was that the bearing are now where close. The way to make the triples work is to swap the steering stem.


looks like the passenger peg bracket is not stock either.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:22 PM   #15645
Nortonbrian
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DR starting using the valve lifter

I understand the problems younger riders have kick starting a bike after being used to pushing the majgic button.The valve lifter is a compression release that allows you to turn the motor past compression. With the piston in this position, operating the kickstarter will get the motor a full turn to gather momentum and get over compression and fire up. Problem being is that the flywheels are getting lighter and lighter in modern four strokes so there is less inertia to assist you. In my youth I would kickstart 40-50 new bikes a day, often high compression 500-600 singles, but once you understand about letting the flywheels do the work for you a good hard push was all it took. Remember, find compressio, pull in valve lifter and EASE it over TDC, bring the kickstart up and give it a kick. When I worked for Al Baker at XR's Only the big Honda singles were very reuctant to start when they were neither hot or cold. We pulled the a/c off and squirted a stream of gas down the carb and that did the trick.Tickle an old AMAL carb and if its got spark it will fire. Sometime you have to wet its whistle!
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