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Old 05-01-2013, 08:52 PM   #15691
MarshkevUK
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: NW Wisconsin
Oddometer: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottallen View Post
kobukan, you're frame guards will be in the mail tomorrow
and mrpulldown. may come up on a $1 billet spacer to convert to pumper carb
I still have lots of cool stuff that took me a while to find like an aluminum upper tripple tree from thumper. I will be selling the upper tree with protaper fat bars, moose bark busters and cycra hand guards as one thing. i need to make a custom box this weekend and get it weighed.
Here's my bike two weeks ago before disassembly:

http://imgur.com/1zqVib6

i'm going to post some videos too of it idling and riding when i go to sell the motor.
Hi, how much are you going to be selling this set up for???

"I will be selling the upper tree with protaper fat bars, moose bark busters and cycra hand guards as one thing"

When you give me the price though please keep in mind that I am very poor... I can't even afford the electricity to run a starter motor that's why I have a '92 kicker... Please shoot me a pm when you a moment-cheers,
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In England a 100 miles is a long way & in the US 100 years is a long time...
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:06 PM   #15692
Skeeter Cruz
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Joined: Jan 2010
Oddometer: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpnoffi View Post
Any information you can give on your "minimalist" wiring? I have been looking for a way to wire mine like this. Thanks!
I'm running a vaportech dash. The stock dr dash takes a huge amount of wiring. Cut out completely all wiring going to the dash, old kickstand sensor, gear indicator, bunch of other stuff previous owner installed.
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:51 AM   #15693
LawlerClan
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Hershey, PA
Oddometer: 31
For sale in LI

Saw this in the NE craigslist section.
Dr350
$1.5K http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/mcy/3778759373.html

less than 900 miles.

Not mine, no affliation etc.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:07 AM   #15694
error cooled
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Oddometer: 1,149
ISO Rear Rotor

I need a new in-spec rear brake rotor / disc? Anyone have one lying around they would sell to me ?
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The Blue Ridge Trail - Virginia via gravel, dirt, two track and backroads.
USFS Motorized Access in Virginia - Protect your dual sporting access in the commonwealth.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:34 AM   #15695
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,014
Quote:
Originally Posted by error cooled View Post
I need a new in-spec rear brake rotor / disc? Anyone have one lying around they would sell to me ?
Here is some info that may help:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...sc_replacement

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:57 AM   #15696
SloMo228
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: SE Michigan
Oddometer: 1,292
Question for those of you who have the Guts Racing seat foam - what firmness did you get and how does it compare to the stock foam? I will be getting new foam and a cover from Guts instead of Seat Concepts since I would like a taller seat but I'm not sure which firmness to get. I'm leaning more toward the firmest foam because I'm big and heavy but maybe medium would be better for comfort. I know the soft foam is probably not going to work out for me.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:04 AM   #15697
error cooled
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Oddometer: 1,149
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Here is some info that may help:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...sc_replacement

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Hey Greg - your site has been invaluable - and I did read that section. I am right at 3.5 at the rear - with a distinct ridge. I may try and get by for a while as is - but if someone has a take off I would be up for it .
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USFS Motorized Access in Virginia - Protect your dual sporting access in the commonwealth.
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Old 05-02-2013, 05:32 PM   #15698
DR350seKING
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: pittsburgh pa
Oddometer: 65
bars $$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottallen View Post
kobukan, you're frame guards will be in the mail tomorrow
and mrpulldown. may come up on a $1 billet spacer to convert to pumper carb
I still have lots of cool stuff that took me a while to find like an aluminum upper tripple tree from thumper. I will be selling the upper tree with protaper fat bars, moose bark busters and cycra hand guards as one thing. i need to make a custom box this weekend and get it weighed.
Here's my bike two weeks ago before disassembly:

http://imgur.com/1zqVib6

i'm going to post some videos too of it idling and riding when i go to sell the motor.
how much for the bar set up??
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:13 PM   #15699
redleger
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 556


Finally repainted the tank. Primer, color and overcoat. Hopefully I can keep it bubble free for riding season.

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:28 PM   #15700
z@ch
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Tejas Norte
Oddometer: 4,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post

Finally repainted the tank. Primer, color and overcoat. Hopefully I can keep it bubble free for riding season.
Your breath, don't hold it.

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Old 05-02-2013, 09:31 PM   #15701
MarshkevUK
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: NW Wisconsin
Oddometer: 126
OEM plastic tank & engine/casing replacement

Hi, i'm new to this particular thread but have owned 2 DR's over the years. the one i currently own is a '92S model which is as i'm sure you're all aware a kick start only.

I have 2 questions i'd like to get some help on...

1, i have replaced the steel OEM tank with a long range acebis one that came with the bike but, for a few reasons i'm not in love with it so have been looking for (and just purchased) an OEM one from the off road version. So, i realise that i need to weld brackets to the frame to accomodate the plastic tank and wondered if anyone has any advice or information on how i should go about it?

2, having upgraded the carburator etc' the bike kicks over reasonably easy but as i get older the allure of a magic button gets more tempting and i was wondering if a, is there a way to convert a kick start version into a electric start version or b, if i go out and source a late model motor how hard is it to wire into a kick start only wiring loom?

Any info' is greaty appreciated and welcomed.

cheers,
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In England a 100 miles is a long way & in the US 100 years is a long time...
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:29 PM   #15702
TinyTim
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Singapore
Oddometer: 54
Valve Clearance - specs

My engine is leaking oil. Has been so for approx four years. Runs fine. Hope it is the gaskets and nothing serious. Plan is to open it up, clean and replace.

Got the new gaskets, timing chain, guides, plug, cover o rings. Do I need anything else?

I don't have a manual. What are the valve clearances? Inches would be fine but metric would be much better.

It is a DR350 SE-X, street model with the magic button.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:11 AM   #15703
mustangwagz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Sorry man . . . these things are so rare and sought after they're worth their weight in gold at this point. I've had an eye out for some for a long time and finally got lucky with the timing on this set.
no worries man, its cool. seen they went for pretty high price anyhow. Enjoy them and be sure to get pics with them on!!!
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:48 AM   #15704
thump!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarshkevUK View Post
Hi, i'm new to this particular thread but have owned 2 DR's over the years. the one i currently own is a '92S model which is as i'm sure you're all aware a kick start only.

I have 2 questions i'd like to get some help on...

1, i have replaced the steel OEM tank with a long range acebis one that came with the bike but, for a few reasons i'm not in love with it so have been looking for (and just purchased) an OEM one from the off road version. So, i realise that i need to weld brackets to the frame to accomodate the plastic tank and wondered if anyone has any advice or information on how i should go about it?

2, having upgraded the carburator etc' the bike kicks over reasonably easy but as i get older the allure of a magic button gets more tempting and i was wondering if a, is there a way to convert a kick start version into a electric start version or b, if i go out and source a late model motor how hard is it to wire into a kick start only wiring loom?

Any info' is greaty appreciated and welcomed.

cheers,
I've welded bungs on three S model frames for the plastic off-road tank including my current '96. Works fine. I'm recalling its an 8mm nut. I weld the functional nut to a larger one on one side and to a large washer on the other. Then I weld the large nut to the frame in the center of the indentation just in front of the tank. You'll also need the rear bracket which is different from the metal tank. If you still using the CV carb you'll have to cant that over at about 15 degrees from vertical for the cables to clear the off road tank. It was designed for the TM33 with cables on the right side.

The e-start motor has a longer crankshaft and different engine cases. I don't believe it would be possible to retrofit an electric starter.

If I wanted an e-start bike I would just trade for one rather than trying to retrofit a motor. There are numerous small differences that, while not unsolvable, would make that challenging.

Heresy I know... particular in this thread but if it were me, rather than trading for a later model but out of production e-start DR350, I'd go with a '96 or newer DR650. I have both. My 350 has a kickstart motor saving a few lbs but the e-start 350 is only a 25 or so lbs lighter than the 650 and is a couple of inches taller. The 650 is still a current production bike (lots of aftermarket goodies available) and is a much more relaxed ride except in the most rugged conditions. IMHO the 650 is a much more robust bike. Mine has 40K miles on it and has never required anything more than scheduled maintenance. My 350 on the other hand is on its 3rd motor in 35K miles (one main bearing failure, one excessive oil consumption). The only thing the 650 lacks is a 6th gear but it has so much torque it's really no big deal.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:05 AM   #15705
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,014
Quote:
Originally Posted by TinyTim View Post
My engine is leaking oil. Has been so for approx four years. Runs fine. Hope it is the gaskets and nothing serious. Plan is to open it up, clean and replace.

Got the new gaskets, timing chain, guides, plug, cover o rings. Do I need anything else?

I don't have a manual. What are the valve clearances? Inches would be fine but metric would be much better.

It is a DR350 SE-X, street model with the magic button.

Thanks in advance.
Here is a manual for you, enjoy!

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...ervice_manuals

As for other things, I'd think seals would be a good to replacing if you are opening it up.

Honestly, though, I would figure out the location of the leak before diving in and replacing bits.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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