ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-14-2013, 05:04 PM   #15856
thump!
Adventurer
 
thump!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 878
Quote:
Originally Posted by boardforever View Post
I know this has been discussed here before, but I just regeared my bike this week, I have a 99 SE which since I have owned it has never had stock gearing. I was running 14/43 but was really screaming at highway speed, I went back to stock 15/41 which seems crazy high now. I wonder what other people use for a good mix of on and off road, I commute on my bike but also like to ride trails on the weekends. I haven't tried the 15/41 off road yet, but it seems really high geared.
I like 15/44 (same as 14/41) on the 94 and newer bikes. On the early models (with higher primary gearing) that translates to something like 14/45. That final drive ratio results in an actual 60mph (GPS) or an indicated speed on the stock speedo of about 65 at 6K rpms. 1st gear will still pull stumps.
thump! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 05:40 PM   #15857
daverbmxer
Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: North Dakota
Oddometer: 42
Clutch Annoyance

I have a pretty new to me DR that I'm trying to get the clutch adjustment right on. When I first got it, it didn't seem to shift all that smoothly, especially the 1-2 shift. I got it better by taking out a bit of the free play in the lever, but if I rush the shift I still feel a bit of a "catch".. more clunk than I would like. So today I removed a bit more free play in the lever, but I am fairly sure I got it to slip a couple times, but coasting and going full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear. It did seem to shift a bit smoother then, but like I said, I think it slipped a bit. So I dialed it back to where I was before.. no slip, but not the smoothest shifts. Is there a lever that has more of a bow to it that allows for a longer pull? What is the proper thing to do in this situation? I really hope that my transmission is not buggered and I hope the clutch plates don't need replacing. I looked through the Clymer manual and I did not see reference to the angle of the clutch lever on the splines (the one on top of the case). On mine, it forms a 90* angle with the cable when the clutch is pulled. Should it be 90* then, or when the clutch is at rest (engaged)?
daverbmxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 06:13 PM   #15858
plugeye
mc caregiver
 
plugeye's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
Oddometer: 3,252
99 sex
16/41 = sweet spot for my use, commuting
plugeye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 06:32 PM   #15859
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,258
Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
I have a pretty new to me DR that I'm trying to get the clutch adjustment right on. When I first got it, it didn't seem to shift all that smoothly, especially the 1-2 shift. I got it better by taking out a bit of the free play in the lever, but if I rush the shift I still feel a bit of a "catch".. more clunk than I would like. So today I removed a bit more free play in the lever, but I am fairly sure I got it to slip a couple times, but coasting and going full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear. It did seem to shift a bit smoother then, but like I said, I think it slipped a bit. So I dialed it back to where I was before.. no slip, but not the smoothest shifts. Is there a lever that has more of a bow to it that allows for a longer pull? What is the proper thing to do in this situation? I really hope that my transmission is not buggered and I hope the clutch plates don't need replacing. I looked through the Clymer manual and I did not see reference to the angle of the clutch lever on the splines (the one on top of the case). On mine, it forms a 90* angle with the cable when the clutch is pulled. Should it be 90* then, or when the clutch is at rest (engaged)?
I'm guessing you probably should split the difference on the clutch arm throw. There have been a lot of post on clutch release problems and solutions encluding adjustment, cable drag, thurst washers/sleeves, sanding the clutch basket, spacers, clutch pack replacement, and shift drum bolts. I think most have their clutch lever play to near zero to get all of the throw possible without slipping. It might be possible to find a lever with a different ratio pull or shorten the arm a little, but that will probably make the pull a little harder.
2bold2getold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 07:08 PM   #15860
trippda
Adventurer
 
trippda's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Stillaguamish Convergence, WA
Oddometer: 51
Okay, I took the rear wheel off on my 96 se to do a tire swap. While I am at it, I take the chain off the sprockets and clean all the nasty crap all over the chain slider/roller as well as do a thorough chain cleaning.

After getting my new shoes on I re install everything adjusting the chain a bit tighter than it was before. But before I take the Purple people eater off my janky little stand, I fire it up. For no real reason other to watch the new wheel spin, and maybe spray a little extra lube on the warm chain before I ride.

But NOO the chain is jumping up all over slapping around making a loud clicking sound. Seems like it is seconds away from getting thrown off the sprocket. It bounces loose, then catches, jerking the wheel to a quick stop, then resumes spinning.

Are these symptoms consistent with something anyone recognizes. chain too tight? sprocket alignment? slider/roller inteference? ( I checked these things but maybe I'm over looking something)

I don't know and feel stupid.


Here is a link to a video of the noise/jumping if it makes it easier to understand what I mean.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK29_cjxG70


Thanks in advance inmates
__________________
RAW DAWG
Get busy living, or get busy dying
'83 GS650GL - '96 - DR350 -'04 Sherpa
trippda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 07:17 PM   #15861
slartidbartfast
Love those blue pipes
 
slartidbartfast's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,738
Looks like it will probably be too tight once you compress the suspension. You should have marked/noted the tensioner position when you took it apart. Jumping about looks normal for a lumpy-idling bike in first gear. Try revving it up a bit.
__________________
MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
slartidbartfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 07:24 PM   #15862
boardforever
Gnarly Adventurer
 
boardforever's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Hood River Valley
Oddometer: 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I like 15/44 (same as 14/41) on the 94 and newer bikes. On the early models (with higher primary gearing) that translates to something like 14/45. That final drive ratio results in an actual 60mph (GPS) or an indicated speed on the stock speedo of about 65 at 6K rpms. 1st gear will still pull stumps.
Maybe I'll get a chance to try it out with the 15/41 this weekend, and then maybe I'll try going back to my 14 with the 41 still on the rear.
__________________
1999 DR350SE
2006 Kawasaki ZZR600 [sold]
boardforever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 07:30 PM   #15863
boardforever
Gnarly Adventurer
 
boardforever's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Hood River Valley
Oddometer: 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
99 sex
16/41 = sweet spot for my use, commuting
From 14/43, 15/41 seems like a completely different bike. 16/41 would probably be great for commuting, but probably too high for off road.
__________________
1999 DR350SE
2006 Kawasaki ZZR600 [sold]
boardforever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 08:21 PM   #15864
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,079
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
I had to bend the tab quite a bit to get the level down below the seam.
Think the spec for fuel level is 1.5mm above the gasket surface, which should be obtainable with a 14.7mm float height.
Quote:
I mean it is really bent. Probably about a 30 degree angle.
I wouldn't leave it that way.
Quote:
I'm wondering if it is the right float needle in there as it appears you have to buy the needle as well as the seat together to the tune of $50!
You can get the float needle separately, just not from Suzuki. It may also be that the needle that's in there is worn out and it just won't seal unless forced into the seat (i.e. with more of the float submerged in the fuel).
Quote:
Anyway, looks like I have the float level dialed in... (fingers crossed)
It's worth pointing out that the use of the term "float level" can be quite confusing to the reader because it's an amalgam of the terms "float height" and "fuel level", and the latter terms have opposite connotations, that is when the float height is increased, the fuel level is lowered, and when the float height is decreased, the fuel level is raised.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2013, 04:15 AM   #15865
markk900
Gnarly Adventurer
 
markk900's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Jumping about looks normal for a lumpy-idling bike in first gear. Try revving it up a bit.
+1 - looks normal to me at idle.....
markk900 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2013, 06:27 AM   #15866
Crenshaw
Bum
 
Crenshaw's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Salidaho
Oddometer: 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
+1 - looks normal to me at idle.....
+2. Not only that but the chain always bounces around a ton with no load on it. Have you actually tried riding it?

Is your chain extra long or stretched? Doesn't look like you have any adjustment left on the eccentrics...
__________________
DR350
Crenshaw is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2013, 06:51 AM   #15867
FireDog45
Mid-life crisis sufferer
 
FireDog45's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Centerburg, Ohio
Oddometer: 577
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippda View Post
Okay, I took the rear wheel off on my 96 se to do a tire swap. While I am at it, I take the chain off the sprockets and clean all the nasty crap all over the chain slider/roller as well as do a thorough chain cleaning.

After getting my new shoes on I re install everything adjusting the chain a bit tighter than it was before. But before I take the Purple people eater off my janky little stand, I fire it up. For no real reason other to watch the new wheel spin, and maybe spray a little extra lube on the warm chain before I ride.

But NOO the chain is jumping up all over slapping around making a loud clicking sound. Seems like it is seconds away from getting thrown off the sprocket. It bounces loose, then catches, jerking the wheel to a quick stop, then resumes spinning.

Are these symptoms consistent with something anyone recognizes. chain too tight? sprocket alignment? slider/roller inteference? ( I checked these things but maybe I'm over looking something)

I don't know and feel stupid.


Here is a link to a video of the noise/jumping if it makes it easier to understand what I mean.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK29_cjxG70


Thanks in advance inmates
It appears that the 'jumping' is happening at the same point in the chain. Have you checked to see if one of the links is binding or stiffer than normal? I assume you did when you cleaned it but that's the first thing that comes to mind while watching your vid.
FireDog45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2013, 07:38 AM   #15868
MattR302
Awesomeness, Inc.
 
MattR302's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: New Haven-ish, CT
Oddometer: 78
So over the weekend, I picked up a spare set of wheels for my 98 SE. These will be for dirt tires, my current wheels will have street tires.

My current sprocket & chain setup for my street tires is 15F/41R with a 108-link chain, these have only ~1000 miles on them. I'm going to buy a new rear sprocket for the dirt wheels.

Does anyone have any idea how many teeth I can go up to on the rear sprocket while keeping the 15 tooth front and 108-link chain?

Thanks in advance!
__________________
-MATT
1998 Suzuki DR350SE
2007 Yamaha FZ6
MattR302 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2013, 07:50 AM   #15869
inroads
Wimberley,Texas
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 198
clutch annoyance

I have a Kientech clutch "easy pull" arm(longer) that was nice for the pull but seemed to aggravate finding the sweet spot for clutch cable adjustment.
I agree that you have to eliminate free play adjustment until just prior to clutch slip.(which will show up readily on a high gear,low speed roll on)

The clutch arm at rest(engaged) should be at 90 degrees

One thing that helped me on my bike was my technique,which was to run up the tach before shifting IAW don't short shift it.

The DR 350 is a great bike but is a little more finicky about finding that butter smooth shift available on other bikes.
inroads is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2013, 07:55 AM   #15870
8lives
Runnin on wonder
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Shasta County,Calif
Oddometer: 1,627
I went 1 tooth up on my 96 350 and it made the freeway good,and front sprockets are easy to change.
__________________
You can keep your guns,just don't point um at me please!
2013 Wee Strom AKA Miley
1986 XT350 For going places the Wee shouldn't be!
I see the world through KLR eyes

8lives screwed with this post 05-15-2013 at 01:58 PM
8lives is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014