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Old 05-22-2013, 04:01 AM   #15946
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8 View Post
Not sure where to get reverse thread drill bits, but i would start looking for them.
Google "Sears screw extractor" and "Left hand drill bit set".

I've used the sears p/n 52154 extractors and found them quite useful. Hanson makes some LH drill bit sets also available through sears (online).

I bought some LH bits on ebay that seem OK. Just be sure they are high speed steel (HSS).
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:16 AM   #15947
cruiserbrett
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I had too much preload in my late model 99 cartridge forks after swapping springs based on racetechs recommendations(poor-too much preload and way to high a spring rate)

So, take the PVC spacers and chop them with a chop saw like youd cut 2x4's with... its a pain, but it gives nice square cuts. ended up with 5mm preload which was good. I made about 4 different thicknesses so I figure which I liked best.

I will say this: the damping-particularly rebound, in those forks is poor when you put stiffer springs in them. Dont spring for a gold valve, but do look at a shim kit to change the shim stack. you will need a 6mm ID max of 17mmOD shims. Racetech sells it for about $30. The stock showa base valve ports probably flow better than the gold valve. I wasted money on it and it wasnt worth the $$$.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8 View Post
Hey guys. I just got my 99' DR350SE running after buying it a year ago. Only 2,900 miles on it and I also own a 90' DR350S and a 08' DR650SE. This 99' 350 has the dirt model's suspension and I have far too much preload in the cartridge forks. Jesse sent me springs with 2-5/8" and 3" PVC spacers so, with a friends help a couple of days ago, I squeezed the shorter 2-5/8" spacers in there. There is too much preload. I called Jesse today and he suggested going with an 1/8" or 1/4" of preload- meaning cut the spacers to where they are 1/8" to 1/4" longer than they have to be to just touch the cap. I have always thought it had to do with rider weight and aiming for the suspension settling at 1/3 of its travel with rider on bike and not just a general one size fits most setting. I have other spacers i can cut to length and have ready for when I can get a friend to help. More importantly I can take them to work and cut them on a saw used for PVC and not have to slowly and carefully hack saw it by hand like I did with the 90' DR350's spring upgrade. Does anyone remember any lengths or discussions on spacer length for CARTRIDGE style DR350 forks??

I have owned the bike for over a year and finally really drove it for the first time today after getting it inspected. I rode it on the road and on some power line trails. I was disappointed, but I know I have too much preload front and rear right now. There was also a very noticeable shudder that oscillated on and off and i hope it too is suspension related. I put a pumper carb on she runs strong and starts easy. Man that magic button sure is nice coming from the 90' model. i hope you guys can help me out. i am trying to get her ready for a friend to ride in the mountains this weekend.
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:23 AM   #15948
thump!
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I had the same issue with the cartridge forks. Eventually I went with no spacer at all and I'm 220 lbs in riding gear. It still has less static sag than the classic 1/3 of travel but it's close. I Frankly, I don't find the cartridge forks that much better than the old rod forks. But, at least there are adjustments for both compression and rebound damping and I like the larger 17mm axle.

And OBTW, the plural of "you" is ya'll ;)
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:33 AM   #15949
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I had the same issue with the cartridge forks. Eventually I went with no spacer at all and I'm 220 lbs in riding gear. It still has less static sag than the classic 1/3 of travel but it's close. I Frankly, I don't find the cartridge forks that much better than the old rod forks. But, at least there are adjustments for both compression and rebound damping and I like the larger 17mm axle.

And OBTW, the plural of "you" is ya'll ;)
Haven't tried the cartridge forks, so my experience is only with regular damper forks, but if you haven't got enough static sag and you have removed the spacers doesn't that indicate the springs are too stiff? I'm about the same size as you running 15mm of preload on a 95 and I get the classic sag numbers.

Also, to the previous post - doesn't the cartridge fork have the preload adjuster in the fork cap? I get about 10mm or adjustability (or maybe more) so cutting the spacer doesn't have to be so precise. I set mine up with an arbitrary spacer, measured sag, and cut the spacer down by the difference between measured and what I wanted, so that I was close to my static sag number after the first measurement. Then fine tuned using the cap. Like I said though, not a cartridge fork so can't tell if that works.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:23 AM   #15950
SloMo228
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Has anyone here ever used the foam/cover combos available on eBay?

Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121104536046...witem=&vxp=mtr

If you have, was it worth the money? Did it fit OK?
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:32 AM   #15951
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Haven't tried the cartridge forks, so my experience is only with regular damper forks, but if you haven't got enough static sag and you have removed the spacers doesn't that indicate the springs are too stiff? I'm about the same size as you running 15mm of preload on a 95 and I get the classic sag numbers.

Also, to the previous post - doesn't the cartridge fork have the preload adjuster in the fork cap? I get about 10mm or adjustability (or maybe more) so cutting the spacer doesn't have to be so precise. I set mine up with an arbitrary spacer, measured sag, and cut the spacer down by the difference between measured and what I wanted, so that I was close to my static sag number after the first measurement. Then fine tuned using the cap. Like I said though, not a cartridge fork so can't tell if that works.
The cartridge fork has no external preload adjustment. And yes, the spring appears to be too stiff to achieve 1/3 of travel sag with me on the bike. On these forks the top screw (in the cap) is rebound damping, the bottom screw is compression damping.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:06 AM   #15952
Dirtmonkey8
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Thanks for the help with my preload guys. My buddy is meeting me at home after work so we can get it right. There is no way in hell I can hold that spring down and loosen the cap by myself. Anyone remember the static sag number for the rear? I know on my DR650 I have it at about 3.5-3.75", but I assume with the longer travel of the 350 it will be slightly more than that. It is hard to belieave how strange a bike behaves with really jacked up preload.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:07 AM   #15953
valvecrusher
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Does anyone have a SPARE DR350 carb with the Accelerator Pump?


I'm looking for a complete carb, as a 'larger carb upgrade' for my NX250..


Please PM
if you 'find one', 'have one', or 'happen to see one' somewhere?


Thanks ADVer's,

great thread, btw
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:49 AM   #15954
redleger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
Has anyone here ever used the foam/cover combos available on eBay?

Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121104536046...witem=&vxp=mtr

If you have, was it worth the money? Did it fit OK?
I have never used one although I have definately seen them. I have heard if you don't have the stock tank they don't fit. So make sure of what fuel tank you have
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:34 PM   #15955
dankatz
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Corbin seat or lowered seat

Anybody have a lowered seat or corbin seat around they would care to part with? just PM me.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:02 PM   #15956
SloMo228
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Originally Posted by redleger View Post
I have never used one although I have definately seen them. I have heard if you don't have the stock tank they don't fit. So make sure of what fuel tank you have
Hmm... The price is right, but I also want something that fits and is OK quality. I just ordered a Clarke tank (since I really wanted a black tank and they're the only ones that make 'em, otherwise I'd have gone with Acerbis) so if the eBay seats are a no-go with aftermarket tanks, that kinda kills that possibility.

Anyone know how the Guts Racing seat foam/cover fits with a Clarke tank? I know Seat Concepts makes a good product but they don't offer a tall option and I need it with my long-ass legs.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:03 PM   #15957
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91 help needed

Okay guys I have a 91 350s all stock with hard start issues.I have read the posts back on pg 431 about drilling out the jet,went to my dealer to find out more on the tech sheet for suzuki's answer to the problem,and they no longer are a suzuki dealer.Does anyone have the tech sheet with the steps to doing this and what size drill to use?Or am I better to just get a pumper carb and be done with it.Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:10 PM   #15958
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
Hmm... The price is right, but I also want something that fits and is OK quality. I just ordered a Clarke tank (since I really wanted a black tank and they're the only ones that make 'em, otherwise I'd have gone with Acerbis) so if the eBay seats are a no-go with aftermarket tanks, that kinda kills that possibility.

Anyone know how the Guts Racing seat foam/cover fits with a Clarke tank? I know Seat Concepts makes a good product but they don't offer a tall option and I need it with my long-ass legs.
It's just foam and a cover. It's goes onto your stock seat pan. Should fit any of the tanks, just like a stock seat would.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:48 PM   #15959
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Originally Posted by snowman650 View Post
Okay guys I have a 91 350s all stock with hard start issues.I have read the posts back on pg 431 about drilling out the jet,went to my dealer to find out more on the tech sheet for suzuki's answer to the problem,and they no longer are a suzuki dealer.Does anyone have the tech sheet with the steps to doing this and what size drill to use?Or am I better to just get a pumper carb and be done with it.Thanks for the help.
I assume you mean drill out the cover over the idle mixture screw. Use a small bit like .125" then use a sheet metal screw to pull out the plug. It's a piece of cake. Set your idle mixture about 1/2 turn out from where you find it. That's likely around 1.5 - 1.75 turns. There's more to the pumper carb than just the carb. You also need the rubber boot to the airbox, the cables and throttle tube.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:00 PM   #15960
snowman650
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No it's stated in the post to drill the pilot jet that sets under the tube on the float.The poster thought it was a .025 drill.I want to be sure before I drill anything.If I go with a pumper it will be a complete setup from Jessi.
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