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Old 05-22-2013, 05:54 PM   #15961
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman650 View Post
No it's stated in the post to drill the pilot jet that sets under the tube on the float.The poster thought it was a .025 drill.I want to be sure before I drill anything.If I go with a pumper it will be a complete setup from Jessi.
i have it..ill see if i can get it to scan
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:01 PM   #15962
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Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
i have it..ill see if i can get it to scan

FOund it, actually its not the FACTORY TSB, its a short instructional paper that came with my facotry Service manual from PO who did the modification..

Basically, Look at your float assembly..there's a small jet thats NOT removable..drill that to a #72 drill bit size..clean VERY good, and re-assemble.

According to paper, this solves issue...i can say that with my bike..typically no more than 2 kicks when cold..ever!

Hope that helped!? haha.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:22 PM   #15963
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Thumb

Sure doe's thanks for the info.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:56 PM   #15964
markk900
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Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey8 View Post
Thanks for the help with my preload guys. My buddy is meeting me at home after work so we can get it right. There is no way in hell I can hold that spring down and loosen the cap by myself. Anyone remember the static sag number for the rear? I know on my DR650 I have it at about 3.5-3.75", but I assume with the longer travel of the 350 it will be slightly more than that. It is hard to belieave how strange a bike behaves with really jacked up preload.
Mine is set to 2.5" of static sag at the rear and seems to work well. But I am using Kouba links (let's not start the bashing thread quite yet) for the change in leverage (ie not to lower the bike).
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:19 PM   #15965
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Originally Posted by snowman650 View Post
Sure doe's thanks for the info.
Besides several posts on pg 431, here's another one.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=3172 Seems like there were more pics, but I can't find them.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:08 PM   #15966
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The cartridge fork has no external preload adjustment. And yes, the spring appears to be too stiff to achieve 1/3 of travel sag with me on the bike. On these forks the top screw (in the cap) is rebound damping, the bottom screw is compression damping.
Is this how to tell the difference between cartridge and damper-rod forks? My 93DR350S should have come with damper-rod forks yes? ...but I'm pretty sure it has an adjustment screw in the cap and at the bottom of the fork legs (not home to go and look right now.)
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:09 AM   #15967
snowman650
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Wow thats not where I would of looked for a jet.Thanks for the pictures that really helps.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:44 AM   #15968
tonusmaximus
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Anyone know which way spring sits in fork on a stock '95 350se?

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Old 05-23-2013, 08:26 AM   #15969
FireDog45
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Originally Posted by tonusmaximus View Post
Anyone know which way spring sits in fork on a stock '95 350se?

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Don't think it really matters but the only picture I could find in the SM shows the upper coils are more widely spaced. So looking at your pict install the right side down.

FireDog45 screwed with this post 05-23-2013 at 08:27 AM Reason: Clarification
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:33 AM   #15970
tonusmaximus
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thanks. Every exploded drawing ive seen I can't tell difference. Ill search a bit more myself.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:42 AM   #15971
tonusmaximus
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"close pitch end of spring should position bottom" thanks to Benders web site copy of manual. Cheers.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:54 AM   #15972
jackanory
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Did some work on the DR...



I would say it's about due for some new wheel bearings! Those fronts were a little difficult to source. Bought a couple spares.





craigslist seat score!





New front turn signals from my parts bin. Smaller, tucked in better, hopefully safe from the inevitable drops.



and then this at the oil change...



metal shavings off the screen. I don't have much experience with 4T motors, most of my bikes have been 2T mxer's. Should I be worried? I'm tearing it down to check that shift drum bolt today (unrelated to the recent find, that was on the peace of mind to do list anyhow).
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:58 AM   #15973
SloMo228
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Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
D

and then this at the oil change...



metal shavings off the screen. I don't have much experience with 4T motors, most of my bikes have been 2T mxer's. Should I be worried? I'm tearing it down to check that shift drum bolt today (unrelated to the recent find, that was on the peace of mind to do list anyhow).
Seems like kind of a lot of metal to me. What did you find in the oil filter? When you have the engine apart for the shift drum bolt, take a careful look inside for unusual wear. Might be worth checking the top end too? From what I've read, if the top end gets starved for oil, it eats itself pretty quickly.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:19 AM   #15974
jackanory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
Seems like kind of a lot of metal to me. What did you find in the oil filter? When you have the engine apart for the shift drum bolt, take a careful look inside for unusual wear. Might be worth checking the top end too? From what I've read, if the top end gets starved for oil, it eats itself pretty quickly.
Didn't look like there was anything unusual with the filter. I'm thinking that if I don't find anything with the mini teardown today I will ride it for a couple hundred miles and do another oil change and inspect again.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:21 AM   #15975
tonusmaximus
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that bike stand kills Jackanory.
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