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Old 05-30-2013, 11:58 AM   #16066
brianjonesphoto
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Originally Posted by redleger View Post
so with Fatbars will I be able to use all my current mounts? IE: grips, turn signal, kill switch mount, brake and clutch lever?
Yes. They are called fat since they are 1 1/8" at the clamp and taper down to the traditional 7/8" at the grip area. This taper is what gives them the extra strength as well a better vibration damping. If you have bark busters that clamp inboard of the levers you may need new clamps.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:33 PM   #16067
slartidbartfast
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Originally Posted by redleger View Post
...Question is, will a set of fat bars be more resistant to bending? I am looking for something quite durable, so that I am not changing these things out every time I try something stupid and fail. It happens alot. ...
Yes, fatbars will be more resistant to bending. Note that the stronger the bars are, the more likely you are to bend the frame or break off a steering stop in a crash. Personally, I'd keep buying cheap bars and changing them out when they are bent. If you buy two sets at once, the fact you have a spare set on-hand will almost assuredly prevent you from crashing hard enough to bend anything.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:44 PM   #16068
redleger
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in other words I'll be prepared so murphy won't be able to get me anymore?
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:11 PM   #16069
Teeeeeemu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Yes, fatbars will be more resistant to bending. Note that the stronger the bars are, the more likely you are to bend the frame or break off a steering stop in a crash. Personally, I'd keep buying cheap bars and changing them out when they are bent. If you buy two sets at once, the fact you have a spare set on-hand will almost assuredly prevent you from crashing hard enough to bend anything.
Have you ever seen this happen? Ive never heard even anybody talk about this. Frames are definitely stronger than handle bars dont you think? Steering stop maaaaybe if youre super lucky?
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:12 PM   #16070
Ghostyman
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Halp!

I'm having bad problems with gear shifting on my '90 DR350S. Gears 1-4 are fine but sometimes when I go into 5th, the transmission gets "stuck" and I can only upshift to 6th and then back down to 5th. I can't get into any gear lower than 5. It feels like trying to downshift from first -- there's nothing there. This almost caused me some serious issues in Death Valley. After about an hour of wiggling and kicking the shift lever, I was able to get it back into 4th and was then able to ride back using only 1-4. This scenario has happened three or four times.

I was sure it was going to be related to the L shaped bracket near the shift drum but I pulled it off today and it's straight. The shift drum bolt is tight and everything looks good in there.

Any ideas?
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:34 PM   #16071
Zane Neher
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Would a torn accelerator pump rod boot cause the high idle?
Can't tell if I torn it pulling it off or if it's been damaged.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:12 PM   #16072
Hotmamaandme
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gearing for off road mostly / dual sport

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Ive got a 98se with a flat side carb. I bought it from a sea level dweller and I live at 4,800 feet. It runs good but cant help but think It probably wouldn't hurt to jet it specifically for my elevation as its not a CV carb? Thoughts and jet size help? I noticed at WOT it cuts out but not at any other throttle position. Ive put almost a 1000 miles on it since February.


I am going to be doing the valves and oil change soon AND im going to put these bits on too

Ok got new sprockets 14 front and 47 rear. I was shocked when I looked at was on the bike now a 14 front and 38! rear! Maybe thats why its so hard to get the front wheel off the ground.

So 14/47 is stock right? I ride mostly dirt trails some double track. Dont really care about road speeds its only to connect short miles on roadway. I just dont want to gear so low that 1-3 are all the same.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:02 AM   #16073
heirhead
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fatbars

Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
so with Fatbars will I be able to use all my current mounts? IE: grips, turn signal, kill switch mount, brake and clutch lever?
Hello,
Have ProTaper on mine. Like the bend but a PITA when I wanted to mount
water bottle holder for air horn, gps mount, gps charger, windshield, different spacers for acerbis(came with them) as the bars are 7/8 to 1 and 1/8" so nothing fit correctly, or should I say easy.

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Old 05-31-2013, 01:06 AM   #16074
Anonawesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zane Neher View Post
Would a torn accelerator pump rod boot cause the high idle?
Can't tell if I torn it pulling it off or if it's been damaged.
Can't say I know exactly what seal you're referring to since I've never disassembled mine since I switched to a pumper, but yes. If it's a seal that is intended to separate the outside air from getting in, it will cause a lean condition. I would tell you to spray a little starter fluid in the hole while it's running to see if it revs, but it sounds like you already have the carb disassembled so go ahead and replace anything that looks like it is no longer "sealing" anything. Also make sure to check your choke seal. I believe it's just a little felt ring and I've had issues with them before.
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:11 AM   #16075
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
So 14/47 is stock right? I ride mostly dirt trails some double track. Dont really care about road speeds its only to connect short miles on roadway. I just dont want to gear so low that 1-3 are all the same.
Stock for the S models is 15/41, so 14/38 is pretty close to that. I use 12/43 for trail riding (single track, mud, hills) and short street bursts (tops out around 50mph) and like it, then switch the front to a 15 for longer street rides. 14/47 is just a little higher geared than 12/43.
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:23 AM   #16076
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Can't say I know exactly what seal you're referring to since I've never disassembled mine since I switched to a pumper, but yes. If it's a seal that is intended to separate the outside air from getting in, it will cause a lean condition. I would tell you to spray a little starter fluid in the hole while it's running to see if it revs, but it sounds like you already have the carb disassembled so go ahead and replace anything that looks like it is no longer "sealing" anything. Also make sure to check your choke seal. I believe it's just a little felt ring and I've had issues with them before.
I believe that boot is intended to keep the pump rod clean and keep dirt out of the float bowl which is vented to the atmosphere. It does not make an air-tight seal even when new so I doubt that it would have any effect on performance.
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:09 AM   #16077
Hotmamaandme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Stock for the S models is 15/41, so 14/38 is pretty close to that. I use 12/43 for trail riding (single track, mud, hills) and short street bursts (tops out around 50mph) and like it, then switch the front to a 15 for longer street rides. 14/47 is just a little higher geared than 12/43.
Thanks or the response
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:07 AM   #16078
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
Ok got new sprockets 14 front and 47 rear. I was shocked when I looked at was on the bike now a 14 front and 38! rear! Maybe thats why its so hard to get the front wheel off the ground.

So 14/47 is stock right? I ride mostly dirt trails some double track. Dont really care about road speeds its only to connect short miles on roadway. I just don't want to gear so low that 1-3 are all the same.
My '99 will crawl up/over just about anything running 14/41, half the time I don't even bother going down to 14 and just run the 15 front - still goes anywhere. I've got a 12 and a 13 that I've put on just to try out, but it's just geared way to low for anything but rock crawling with those imo. These things are tractors even with stock gearing. Being a 6-speed you get a pretty low 1st gear anyway.
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:11 PM   #16079
thump!
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Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
my '99 will crawl up/over just about anything running 14/41, half the time i don't even bother going down to 14 and just run the 15 front - still goes anywhere. I've got a 12 and a 13 that i've put on just to try out, but it's just geared way to low for anything but rock crawling with those imo. These things are tractors even with stock gearing. Being a 6-speed you get a pretty low 1st gear anyway.
+1
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:18 PM   #16080
brianjonesphoto
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It all depends on where and how you ride. With the tight rocky rooty single track in the northwest I run 13/45 on my 99se for trail. 14/45 for general dualsport and 15/45 If it is open gravel and lots of miles.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
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