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Old 06-07-2013, 10:19 AM   #16201
ilovemountains
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Harpers Ferry, WV
Oddometer: 23
Question 1997 DR350SE pilot jets, which goes left / right? I cant read the #s on them! Help!

I have the carb for my 97 DR350se torn down on my bench getting ready to put a full carb gasket set in it. My friend accidentally hit the tray that I had all the parts laid out in and now I don't know what jet goes in what spot! It's just the 2 pilot jets on the intake side of the carb! My eyes are so bad that even with magnifiers I can't read the #s on them to compare them to the parts diagrams that I found. One has a smaller diameter hole than the other. I think that the larger jet goes to the right and the smaller one to the left if facing the inlet side of the carb but want to be 100% sure before putting the carb back in place!!! Anyone know for sure???Thanks!!! Matt
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:34 AM   #16202
Anonawesome
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Location: Central OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilovemountains View Post
I have the carb for my 97 DR350se torn down on my bench getting ready to put a full carb gasket set in it. My friend accidentally hit the tray that I had all the parts laid out in and now I don't know what jet goes in what spot! It's just the 2 pilot jets on the intake side of the carb! My eyes are so bad that even with magnifiers I can't read the #s on them to compare them to the parts diagrams that I found. One has a smaller diameter hole than the other. I think that the larger jet goes to the right and the smaller one to the left if facing the inlet side of the carb but want to be 100% sure before putting the carb back in place!!! Anyone know for sure???Thanks!!! Matt
CV carb?
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:17 PM   #16203
Anonawesome
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You can just baaarely see it, but the one on the left has the narrower jetting passage. This is my CV carb.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:14 PM   #16204
ilovemountains
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That is PERFECT

You are the man! This is exactly what I was looking for last night! Thanks!! Matt
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:27 PM   #16205
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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So the bike to tighten down the clutch perch on my 350se snapped off leaving part inside still. It broke off while I was loosening to change out my handlebars. Is there an aftermarket option that works with the electric start or do I have to buy the entire oem perch which comes with everything. I only need the perch itself. Any one ever ran into this problem?

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Old 06-07-2013, 08:59 PM   #16206
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
So the bike to tighten down the clutch perch on my 350se snapped off leaving part inside still. It broke off while I was loosening to change out my handlebars. Is there an aftermarket option that works with the electric start or do I have to buy the entire oem perch which comes with everything. I only need the perch itself. Any one ever ran into this problem?

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I replaced my "98se clutch perch with an MSR off ebay. http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?...vxp=mtr&_rdc=2



Edit: Oh Yeah, forgot, I had already removed/disabled all of the safety switches.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 06-07-2013 at 10:08 PM
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:00 PM   #16207
SloMo228
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Location: SE Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
So the bike to tighten down the clutch perch on my 350se snapped off leaving part inside still. It broke off while I was loosening to change out my handlebars. Is there an aftermarket option that works with the electric start or do I have to buy the entire oem perch which comes with everything. I only need the perch itself. Any one ever ran into this problem?

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Don't know about a replacement perch, but FWIW, the clutch "safety" switch is very easy to bypass, you don't even need to cut any wires. Just follow the wires from the clutch switch back to where they connect to the main harness behind the headlight, disconnect them, and then connect the main harness wires together. If you did that, I don't see why you couldn't use any old perch that fits a 7/8" bar.

Otherwise, the clutch switch is a simple on/off contact switch. If you can find an aftermarket one with a switch, it should also work fine.
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:25 PM   #16208
brianjonesphoto
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Location: The Brier Patch, WA
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Quick question about the rear chain guide. Whats the difference between the dirt and dual sport versions? The dirt version is half the price. I just discovered mine to be broken today.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:59 PM   #16209
jackanory
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The culprits



Ghosty you are the man!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
You've bent the "Stopper, cam" (it's the thing with the spring on it that is right above the loose bolt in your picture).
I don't think I would have ever figured that out on my own. I owe you a beer. or 10.

I now have a slick shifting 6 speed again instead of a 2 speed.

but whats this...



pulled that out of the rear tire. Which explains the sudden increase in rolling resistance. This is when I discovered that both my patch kits had dried up glue. Thankfully I was able to raid the Tiger parts box and came up with a 19" tube which will do until I get another 18" ordered.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:08 AM   #16210
Ghostyman
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Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
Ghosty you are the man!


I don't think I would have ever figured that out on my own. I owe you a beer. or 10.

I now have a slick shifting 6 speed again instead of a 2 speed.
Very glad to hear it and glad I could be of help.
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:22 AM   #16211
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,144
Cam chain guides

Hi all,

I'm in the midst of installing a new cam chain and associated components. I compared my old and new cam chain guides before install. Have a read here if you like:

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...g_chain_guides

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:34 PM   #16212
jackanory
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Took the DR out for a little shakedown cruise post shift drum bolt and cam stopper replacement.

Filled up with non-ethanol gas and got 63mpg! I can live with that.

Noticed an intermittent whining whenever on the throttle. Disappeared when I pulled in the clutch. My first thought was intake noise but I quickly dismissed it because I have been into the clutch so much the last few days. I also noticed a clicking noise when I pulled in the clutch. Had me a little concerned so I cut the ride short and headed back home.

Pulled the clutch cover (again!) and everything looked good. I was relieved but still a bit puzzled so I bolted everything back up. I'm getting pretty good at pulling that cover, this is about the 5th time in the last couple weeks.

Just for giggles I check the spark plug, still showing lean even after the new jets and needle. Then it dawned on me... that damn vacuum port on the carb. Sure enough the plug had split. Solved the noise puzzle and pulling the clutch cover off and replacing fixed the clicking.

I have not had any luck with those rubber vacuum line plugs, they don't seem to tolerate engine heat very well. Have to keep replacing them on my jeep. If this one fails then I'm going with the old "screw in a short section of fuel line" remedy and calling it good unless somebody chimes in with a better idea.
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:50 PM   #16213
2bold2getold
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I used to stuff a BB or small ball bearing or a 17/22 cal pellet in some of that rubber/cloth braided (German) hose. Never failed. If you can find small steel dowel pins just the right size, they work good also. Screws/bolts might leak around the threads.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:59 PM   #16214
slartidbartfast
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My bikes have also had vacuum cap failures. I think those things are made from very low grade materials. I've used a short length of vacuum hose with a bolt or BB in several times. Have also had good luck threading the inside of the vacuum port to accept a small machine screw with a fiber washer under the head.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:21 PM   #16215
jackanory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I used to stuff a BB or small ball bearing or a 17/22 cal pellet in some of that rubber/cloth braided (German) hose. Never failed. If you can find small steel dowel pins just the right size, they work good also. Screws/bolts might leak around the threads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
My bikes have also had vacuum cap failures. I think those things are made from very low grade materials. I've used a short length of vacuum hose with a bolt or BB in several times. Have also had good luck threading the inside of the vacuum port to accept a small machine screw with a fiber washer under the head.
good ideas. I will try the BB trick
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