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Old 06-23-2013, 01:20 PM   #16336
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cool_Hand_Luke View Post
Thanks Markk900...yeah the guy that suggested I replace the chain said I should b/c the chain has some sag in it and I had already shifted the rear wheel as far back as it can go. Do chains stretch over time? Any suggestions on the brand or type I should look into? I will go check out the sprockets now. Thanks again!
I'm not sure you can tell if the chain is shot by all in on the adjustment. Some one may have replace the chain with one that was a little longer and/or a different combination of sprockets might effect the overall length. After a while you get a feel for chain and sprocket wear. These days I only use o-ring type chains. They are pregreased and sealed by the o-rings and wear a lot longer than the standard chains. You just need to keep them clean and enough lube on them to prevent corrosion. I tend to buy mid priced chains and inexpensive steel sprockets and change them (more often) when needed. One way to test sprocket/chain wear is to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the back and feel for slack at that point. When new, there is very little "play" there. The chain will fit the sprocket pretty snug and kind of sloppy when worn. Snug, sloppy, wallered out....technical terms.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:56 PM   #16337
Cool_Hand_Luke
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I'm not sure you can tell if the chain is shot by all in on the adjustment. Some one may have replace the chain with one that was a little longer and/or a different combination of sprockets might effect the overall length. After a while you get a feel for chain and sprocket wear. These days I only use o-ring type chains. They are pregreased and sealed by the o-rings and wear a lot longer than the standard chains. You just need to keep them clean and enough lube on them to prevent corrosion. I tend to buy mid priced chains and inexpensive steel sprockets and change them (more often) when needed. One way to test sprocket/chain wear is to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the back and feel for slack at that point. When new, there is very little "play" there. The chain will fit the sprocket pretty snug and kind of sloppy when worn. Snug, sloppy, wallered out....technical terms.
Thanks for the info! I took a look at the rear sprocket and it seems as though it may need replacement as well...I will have my buddy look at the chain and see what he thinks.

Do you have any recommendations on the tires? As I said before I want a set of konbbies that are DOT approved but will mostly be for off-road riding. Markk900 suggested the Kenda K760 set (and Rocky Mountain ATV/MC says they are 80% dirt, 20% street which sounds perfect). I was also looking at the Pirelli MT21 for maybe the front tire.

Also, what tire sizes should I get? Rocky Mountain ATV/MC spat out the 80/100x21 front tire (90/90x21 if I get the Pirelli) and 110/100x18 for the rear when I entered in my bike. Do these sizes sound about right for off road use or would something larger (like a 120/100x18 on the back) be better?

Thanks!
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Old 06-23-2013, 03:06 PM   #16338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cool_Hand_Luke View Post
Thanks for the info! I took a look at the rear sprocket and it seems as though it may need replacement as well...I will have my buddy look at the chain and see what he thinks.

Do you have any recommendations on the tires? As I said before I want a set of konbbies that are DOT approved but will mostly be for off-road riding. Markk900 suggested the Kenda K760 set (and Rocky Mountain ATV/MC says they are 80% dirt, 20% street which sounds perfect). I was also looking at the Pirelli MT21 for maybe the front tire.

Also, what tire sizes should I get? Rocky Mountain ATV/MC spat out the 80/100x21 front tire (90/90x21 if I get the Pirelli) and 110/100x18 for the rear when I entered in my bike. Do these sizes sound about right for off road use or would something larger (like a 120/100x18 on the back) be better?

Thanks!
I have a Pirelli MT21 trial tire in the front and I think it is a pretty decent tire so far. I have put about 300 miles on it and barely have seen any wear. As far as traction, in the sand it can be a little sketchy. I ride very technical trails here in New England and it has been a great on/off road tire thus far.

I would recommend it. I also have a Michelin AC10 rear tire which I love and that is also DOT approved.
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:33 PM   #16339
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I use the 80/100 on the front and the 120/100 on the back...I hear lots of good things about the MT21 for a front.
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:57 PM   #16340
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cool_Hand_Luke View Post
Thanks for the info! I took a look at the rear sprocket and it seems as though it may need replacement as well...I will have my buddy look at the chain and see what he thinks.

Do you have any recommendations on the tires? As I said before I want a set of konbbies that are DOT approved but will mostly be for off-road riding. Markk900 suggested the Kenda K760 set (and Rocky Mountain ATV/MC says they are 80% dirt, 20% street which sounds perfect). I was also looking at the Pirelli MT21 for maybe the front tire.

Also, what tire sizes should I get? Rocky Mountain ATV/MC spat out the 80/100x21 front tire (90/90x21 if I get the Pirelli) and 110/100x18 for the rear when I entered in my bike. Do these sizes sound about right for off road use or would something larger (like a 120/100x18 on the back) be better?

Thanks!
You are going to get a lot of different opinions on tires. I rode trials for years and was very happy with trials tires. Typically they have a very soft, sticky compound. Trials has rules that dictate the use of trials tires in a specific size. Also rode enduros where I wanted the biggest Knobby I could get to get through the worst sand/mud they could through at you. Today I lean toward a dirt oriented tire for the same reason. I will gladly slow down on pavement in order to have a tire that will get me through tuff stuff. I used a full knobby on the Great Divide Ride on a KLX300 with no problems. I have never been checked anywhere for legal tires, but I don't ride in CA. On the DR350 I have a 3.25X21 Kenda K270 on the front and a 5.10X18 on the rear. They seem to work ok on most surfaces, with gravel over hard pack being the exception. Not sure any thing works good there. Any kind of front tire is probably going to out last 2 or 3 rears, so pick one you like the looks of. For the rear a lot of things determine the choice. Most importantly the type of surface you expect to ride. I think you are on the right track. Rocky Mountain has always treated me right.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 06-23-2013 at 06:23 PM
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:06 PM   #16341
Wadester
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Lots of good tire choices.

I'm running Michelin T63's

90/90x21 and 130/80x18

Good street mileage and handling, good dirt manners.

YMMV.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:46 PM   #16342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Lots of good tire choices.

I'm running Michelin T63's

90/90x21 and 130/80x18

Good street mileage and handling, good dirt manners.

YMMV.
Run this same setup on my KTM LC4. I was impressed with how good they hook up in loam.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:12 AM   #16343
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I'm not sure you can tell if the chain is shot by all in on the adjustment. Some one may have replace the chain with one that was a little longer and/or a different combination of sprockets might effect the overall length. After a while you get a feel for chain and sprocket wear. These days I only use o-ring type chains. They are pregreased and sealed by the o-rings and wear a lot longer than the standard chains. You just need to keep them clean and enough lube on them to prevent corrosion. I tend to buy mid priced chains and inexpensive steel sprockets and change them (more often) when needed. One way to test sprocket/chain wear is to pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the back and feel for slack at that point. When new, there is very little "play" there. The chain will fit the sprocket pretty snug and kind of sloppy when worn. Snug, sloppy, wallered out....technical terms.
The old way of doing it is pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the furthest point from the front; if more than half a tooth shows replace the chain (and probably the sprockets).....
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:21 AM   #16344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Lots of good tire choices.

I'm running Michelin T63's

90/90x21 and 130/80x18

Good street mileage and handling, good dirt manners.

YMMV.
And cheap too! On the 350 I'm running the 120 width T63 on the rear and an IRC TR8 on the front. Works well for me.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:51 AM   #16345
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My 98SE with the CV carb has a stumble around 3000 RPM. It idles fine, and top end runs great. Starting from a stop it starts to go, then bogs down around 3k for a second, then roars to life. I've got stock CV carb, 37.5 pilot jet, 140 main, 6-position needle, 2" airbox hole, and FMF exhaust. Any suggestions on tweaking?
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:29 PM   #16346
2bold2getold
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Be sure the idle/slow jet is clean.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:15 PM   #16347
rubberband
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Riding the Dragon, video to follow......

Dunlop D606 front, and Kenda K270 4.50 rear. IMO great set up on and off-road.

Another note on the Shinko 244, someone can correct me, but I think it is a 2 ply tire. and the Kenda is 6ply this = a stiffer sidewall. I have tried each and the Kenda is superior in all my categories traction, wear, predictability....



long overdue.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynTzLpGALeE short run on the Dragon, same clapped out knobbies in the photo above......
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:16 PM   #16348
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Rear tire hitting muffler?

Is it common for the muffler to get bent in a little? I recently installed a 4.6" Shinko 244 on the rear, a bit wider than the only tire I have known on this bike. Then I took a passenger for a short ride in town. On a couple of modest dips in the road I could here the tire hit something as the shock compressed. Not deep compressions, maybe half travel. Looking at it, the muffler looks likely to be what's getting hit. This bike was generally rode hard and put away wet when I bought it. Lots of stuff was bent, like the whole front end. Is there an easy way to move the swingarm through its travel without substantial disassembly? I have had the muffler off and it seemed to line up well and bolt up easily when reinstalled.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:38 AM   #16349
FlyingWman
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Have y'all seen the price of a tm33 needle valve lately? Went from 30 something to $50 now. Figures it goes right before I go to show the 350 to an interested buyer
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Old 06-25-2013, 12:44 PM   #16350
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWRambler View Post
Is it common for the muffler to get bent in a little? I recently installed a 4.6" Shinko 244 on the rear, a bit wider than the only tire I have known on this bike. Then I took a passenger for a short ride in town. On a couple of modest dips in the road I could here the tire hit something as the shock compressed. Not deep compressions, maybe half travel. Looking at it, the muffler looks likely to be what's getting hit. This bike was generally rode hard and put away wet when I bought it. Lots of stuff was bent, like the whole front end. Is there an easy way to move the swingarm through its travel without substantial disassembly? I have had the muffler off and it seemed to line up well and bolt up easily when reinstalled.
4.6" shinko 244 should not hit the muffler. If you think the muffler/mounting tabs ar4e not bent and the swing arm is not bent then the pivot bearings can be shot.

Substainal disassembly? depends on how you define it. You need to remove the shock. Not just losen the mounts but remove it. Not too bad. Pull seat and remove top mounting bolt. Loosen resivour clamps. Put bike on stand. Losen lower shock mount. The only way I have found to pull the shock all the way out is to undo the swing arm mounts and linkages and pull the shock out from the bottom. You might have to remove the rear wheel. Put the swing arm and linkages back together.

From here you can cycle the suspension, and test side to side play.

The swing arm itself is very flexy. Not to mention the flex in the wheel. The combined weight of you and passenger could have flexed everything far enough over to one side to rub the muffler.
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