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Old 06-30-2013, 11:18 AM   #16426
Suzuki Phil
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Oddometer: 627
Quote:
Originally Posted by smc5735 View Post
Hello everyone,

My 97 dr350SE is having some starting issues...

heres the scoop..

Had an issue so I cleaned the carb, new oil, and cleaned the air filter.

Put everything back together which I have done multiple times.

Now it will not start and run. It starts only if I connect it to my car battery, pull the choke and adust the air screw to almost max. It idles for 1 minute then shuts off.

I checked the spark plug and it was pretty sooty which would indicate its rich.

Any ideas?
Hard to say what the problem is but confirm that your carb has two vacuum ports on the right hand side. One at top and another near the bowl, if it does the top one is for the vacuum petcock, the bottom for the emission systems. If you are not using either one of those items they must be plugged.

SP
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:25 PM   #16427
smc5735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suzuki Phil View Post
Hard to say what the problem is but confirm that your carb has two vacuum ports on the right hand side. One at top and another near the bowl, if it does the top one is for the vacuum petcock, the bottom for the emission systems. If you are not using either one of those items they must be plugged.

SP
Thanks for the response.

An update, It starts if I "prime" the petcock with the choke on, then i bring it back down to run. Runs for about 2 minutes and then just suddenly dies.
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:49 AM   #16428
thump!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by smc5735 View Post
Thanks for the response.

An update, It starts if I "prime" the petcock with the choke on, then i bring it back down to run. Runs for about 2 minutes and then just suddenly dies.
It's starving for fuel I think. Check float assembly, petcock and fuel filters.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:04 AM   #16429
groundrules
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Oh hiya
Oddometer: 1,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Actually, the manuals should be pretty helpful in this regard.

For the dirt model, routing is covered in sections 7-9 to 7-12.

For the street model, routing is covered in sections 8-41 to 8-45.

Later yearly sections may also have updates as well.

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...ervice_manuals

If you have specific questions after that, please let us know. I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Perfect, thank you. I should have clarified that by 'manual', I only had the pint-sized user guide or whatever you call it. It covers only how to ride it and very basic info. I'm download the Service Manual now.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:28 AM   #16430
groundrules
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Location: Oh hiya
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Well, I opened up the clutch side, and sure enough, what did I find laying there on the bottom?


Perfect! I say to myself. Now i know exactly what my problem is, and I've got the parts to fix. A few more minutes and I'm on my way.

Not so fast.... Apparently as that shift drum bolt backed its way out, it trashed the female threads on the shift drum. I attempted to clean them up with a tap, but there just wasn't enough left and the new bolt just spins.

I don't think there's enough room there for an M6 helicoil repair. I'm fairly certain this is going to require splitting the cases to replace the drum, but I'd like to hear any other ideas if you've got 'em.

I'm so disappointed. I thought I was nearly ready to start to enjoy this machine. It's been one thing after another with this bike, and what should be a simple fix seems to keep leading to 5 other things.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:25 AM   #16431
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,146
16/39 and 108 links?

Hi all,

I'm contemplating fitting a 16/39 sprocket combo for extended pavement use on my 1999 DR350 SE. I know that I will not be able to fit the case saver in front of the countershaft sprocket. I'm curious if a 108 link chain will work with this combo, as well as jumping down to a 15 or 14 tooth countershaft sprocket?

On a related note, I was really impressed with how well the 1999 model worked with my standard 15/41 sprocket combo. It topped 80 MPH on pavement and did okay in the not-too-tricky dirt stuff I rode yesterday. 80 MPH was pretty strung out, though, and it felt much more pleasant at 55-60 MPH. My 1993 model (with the different internal gear ratios) feels a lot more at ease at 65 MPH. I've got a 16 tooth front sprocket already that I plan to fit, but adding the 39 rear sprocket would put the RPM pretty close to that of my 1993 gearing (gearing spreadsheet here).

I'd appreciate any input from those with the later gearing who've tried these various combinations. Thanks!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:40 AM   #16432
Wadester
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: 'Cruces
Oddometer: 1,920
Quote:
Originally Posted by groundrules View Post
Well, I opened up the clutch side, and sure enough, what did I find laying there on the bottom?


Perfect! I say to myself. Now i know exactly what my problem is, and I've got the parts to fix. A few more minutes and I'm on my way.

Not so fast.... Apparently as that shift drum bolt backed its way out, it trashed the female threads on the shift drum. I attempted to clean them up with a tap, but there just wasn't enough left and the new bolt just spins.

I don't think there's enough room there for an M6 helicoil repair. I'm fairly certain this is going to require splitting the cases to replace the drum, but I'd like to hear any other ideas if you've got 'em.

I'm so disappointed. I thought I was nearly ready to start to enjoy this machine. It's been one thing after another with this bike, and what should be a simple fix seems to keep leading to 5 other things.
I was just perusing Distech's DR350 thread - and saw a reference to a "beastly 8mm Kientech gearshift stopper bolt"

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=160



The post is from 2010 - don't know if Jesse has any more of the bolts, but it would be the same thread pitch - just a bit larger, but maybe smaller than a helicoil? If not, then the helicoil would fit fine.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:49 AM   #16433
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,575
Quote:
Originally Posted by groundrules View Post
Well, I opened up the clutch side, and sure enough, what did I find laying there on the bottom?


Perfect! I say to myself. Now i know exactly what my problem is, and I've got the parts to fix. A few more minutes and I'm on my way.

Not so fast.... Apparently as that shift drum bolt backed its way out, it trashed the female threads on the shift drum. I attempted to clean them up with a tap, but there just wasn't enough left and the new bolt just spins.

I don't think there's enough room there for an M6 helicoil repair. I'm fairly certain this is going to require splitting the cases to replace the drum, but I'd like to hear any other ideas if you've got 'em.

I'm so disappointed. I thought I was nearly ready to start to enjoy this machine. It's been one thing after another with this bike, and what should be a simple fix seems to keep leading to 5 other things.
Kientech used to ( couldn't find it on his site) make a 8mm shift drum bolt ( http://missionearly.appspot.com/www....ostcount=11278 ), so there must be some room there. You might drill and tap for an 8 X 1.25 bolt and find a "good" 8mm bolt and fit a tubeing sleeve, or try the 6mm helicoil. If it doesn't work your not much worse off.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:52 AM   #16434
groundrules
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Location: Oh hiya
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Thanks for the glimmer of hope you guys. I'll call Jesse and see what he's got. My kingdom for a lathe!!
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:41 PM   #16435
groundrules
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Oh hiya
Oddometer: 1,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Kientech used to ( couldn't find it on his site) make a 8mm shift drum bolt ( http://missionearly.appspot.com/www....ostcount=11278 ), so there must be some room there. You might drill and tap for an 8 X 1.25 bolt and find a "good" 8mm bolt and fit a tubeing sleeve, or try the 6mm helicoil. If it doesn't work your not much worse off.
So, just to follow up: I talked to Jesse, and he told me that the oversized bolt is a fix they perform on the drum after it has been removed from the bike. He puts it on a lathe and does it that way, so I'd still be looking at splitting the cases. It's not something that he just sells to for people to install themselves. He told me there are two problems with trying to do drill and tap in place: 1, there's another hardened steel plate that also needs to be drilled and 2, chips will get into the oil and eventually migrate over and stick to the stator and destroy the wiring.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:37 PM   #16436
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,225
Anyone know the stock psi for the rear shock on a '90S? I like mine a little stiff but I'm just curious as to where mine is at now.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:46 PM   #16437
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,146
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Anyone know the stock psi for the rear shock on a '90S? I like mine a little stiff but I'm just curious as to where mine is at now.
142 PSI...and it cannot be checked with a standard gauge without losing pressure. A zero loss inflation gauge/filler is needed to check/fill the rear shock with nitrogen.

The specs are also listed here (page 8-9):
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...ervice_manuals

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:48 PM   #16438
Friedom
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: The Golden City of Tucson
Oddometer: 717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Anyone know the stock psi for the rear shock on a '90S? I like mine a little stiff but I'm just curious as to where mine is at now.
I'll Second That Question! Just Picked Up A Tricked Out 90 ThaT I Can't Wait To Get To Know. Also, My Rear End Is Quite Bouncy. Blown Shock?
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:52 PM   #16439
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,575
Quote:
Originally Posted by groundrules View Post
So, just to follow up: I talked to Jesse, and he told me that the oversized bolt is a fix they perform on the drum after it has been removed from the bike. He puts it on a lathe and does it that way, so I'd still be looking at splitting the cases. It's not something that he just sells to for people to install themselves. He told me there are two problems with trying to do drill and tap in place: 1, there's another hardened steel plate that also needs to be drilled and 2, chips will get into the oil and eventually migrate over and stick to the stator and destroy the wiring.
Yeah, heard that before. It would depend on if the motor needed rebuilding or you just wanted to rework it. If it was in "good" shape, and you don't need/want to split it, I would try to drill and tap for the 6 X 1.00 mm helicoil and get a new bolt. I'm sure you can keep the chips out. Lots of ways to do that. If nothing else, just tape it ALL off ( the whole right side ) but the hole, and hook up a vacume cleaner (and/or a computer magnet) to suck up the chips. Then wash every thing out good. What I would worry about most is breaking the tap off in the hole. Use grease and go slow. Tap about a quarter turn or so and then back it out and clean out the chips as necessary. This assumes that you feel comfortable doing this sort of stuff. If not you're going to need some help anyway. If it doesn't take, you're no worse off. You're going to want to get another shift drum and bolt at that point anyway.
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:17 PM   #16440
gladesteen
Padawan
 
Joined: May 2013
Location: New Hampshire
Oddometer: 35
Rear tire removal help/suggestions?

I pulled the rear wheel off to get some new tread on it. going with the Kenda so many recommend!

I pull the guard off, loosen the right side, kick wheel forward and pop the chain off sprocket. Then I try to get the axle off thru left side. WRONG!
Man what a bitch! I spent about 20 mins popping that thing off (or trying to) slid wheel fwd/back to see if there was a 'sweet spot'. No go. Ended up using a 3/8" extension and pounding it out. Finally got it off and the axle was covered in sticky goop. I'm guessing that is really old grease?

Any ideas or tricks for next time?
Should i clean that axle and lube it with fresh grease to make things easier?

The bearings spun inside the wheel just fine. No grit, no resistance.
Just the damn axle so hard to get off.

Also wasnt expecting the sprocket to fall off with all the rubber spacer things in it, but oh well......guess that's normal!

Thanks guys,
Mark
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