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Old 07-01-2013, 02:32 PM   #16441
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
142 PSI...and it cannot be checked with a standard gauge without losing pressure. A zero loss inflation gauge/filler is needed to check/fill the rear shock with nitrogen.

The specs are also listed here (page 8-9):
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...ervice_manuals

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Yeah I have a shock pump. Screw the nitrogen though, I don't feel like spending money and I'm sure it'll survive. Thanks!
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:37 PM   #16442
mustangwagz
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi all,

I'm contemplating fitting a 16/39 sprocket combo for extended pavement use on my 1999 DR350 SE. I know that I will not be able to fit the case saver in front of the countershaft sprocket. I'm curious if a 108 link chain will work with this combo, as well as jumping down to a 15 or 14 tooth countershaft sprocket?

On a related note, I was really impressed with how well the 1999 model worked with my standard 15/41 sprocket combo. It topped 80 MPH on pavement and did okay in the not-too-tricky dirt stuff I rode yesterday. 80 MPH was pretty strung out, though, and it felt much more pleasant at 55-60 MPH. My 1993 model (with the different internal gear ratios) feels a lot more at ease at 65 MPH. I've got a 16 tooth front sprocket already that I plan to fit, but adding the 39 rear sprocket would put the RPM pretty close to that of my 1993 gearing (gearing spreadsheet here).

I'd appreciate any input from those with the later gearing who've tried these various combinations. Thanks!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
i know this wont help your situation at all greg, and i appologize but i can say on my earlier model (93) with a 15-41 combo, i get 65mph at like 5300 rpm. it was a race car with those gears on it, and typcially only run them when i got the kenda's on it. its also tougher with the woman on back when i got those gears on it, gotta burn the clutch a bit sometimes. i droped to a 14 - 41 with the D606 on back and noticed about a 10mph speed difference at 5500 rpm. i thought about dropping even more, but so far this combo works out great with the woman on back, and really helped out in woods.
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:29 PM   #16443
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Yeah I have a shock pump. Screw the nitrogen though, I don't feel like spending money and I'm sure it'll survive. Thanks!
The bladder is not used to adjust the spring rate as in a mountain bike air shock. The nitorgen in the bladder is there to take up the spacer for the oil to go when your shock compresses. YOu might be able to get by with jsut air. But the shock will do funny things as it heats up and cools down. If you have a small shock pump carry it with you on your first couple of rides so you can let out and fill up air as needed.
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:37 PM   #16444
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School me on the dirt bike headlight. It straps on the the forks tubes with rubber straps. What size bulb is it. Does the headlight adjsut the aim of the beam? How far away from the handlebars does it sit?
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:45 PM   #16445
Anonawesome
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Well then! I think 30psi was a little off! Totally different ride now. Wish I woulda done that about 3000 miles ago when I got it. I'll keep the pump on me for a while but so far it feels fine.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:23 PM   #16446
gladesteen
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Joined: May 2013
Location: New Hampshire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gladesteen View Post
I pulled the rear wheel off to get some new tread on it. going with the Kenda so many recommend!

Also wasnt expecting the sprocket to fall off with all the rubber spacer things in it, but oh well......guess that's normal!

Thanks guys,
Mark
Is this 'normal' to happen? My bike is a 91 DR 250S and the manual states that you loosen the allen wrench bolts then remove the sprocket. Mine literally fell off then all these rubber V shaped things fell out.

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:31 PM   #16447
mustangwagz
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gladesteen View Post
Is this 'normal' to happen? My bike is a 91 DR 250S and the manual states that you loosen the allen wrench bolts then remove the sprocket. Mine literally fell off then all these rubber V shaped things fell out.

Thanks,
Mark
yup those are your cush drive rubbers. i replaced mine about 5000 miles ago when i bought the bike. Mine were falling apart. If yours are crappy and falling apart, replace them. use a little dab of vasoline or grease to hold em in when installing, OR lay wheel on its rotor side and put the sprocket hub back in it. Cush drive is nice in my opinion, but others may think differently.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:36 PM   #16448
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gladesteen View Post
Is this 'normal' to happen? My bike is a 91 DR 250S and the manual states that you loosen the allen wrench bolts then remove the sprocket. Mine literally fell off then all these rubber V shaped things fell out.

Thanks,
Mark
The off road only DR350 has a rigid mount rear sprocket. The "S" and "SE" models have a cush drive with those rubber wedge inserts you've found. Yours are likely somewhat worn but it's normal for the sprocket carrier to "fall out".
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:36 PM   #16449
kwb377
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Thumb

I need a speedo drive gear hub if anyone has one available.

TIA!
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:53 PM   #16450
Wadester
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Location: 'Cruces
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gladesteen View Post
Is this 'normal' to happen? My bike is a 91 DR 250S and the manual states that you loosen the allen wrench bolts then remove the sprocket. Mine literally fell off then all these rubber V shaped things fell out.

Thanks,
Mark
As stated, the cush drive came apart (as it will when the wheel is taken off). But the sprocket is still bolted to the carrier - and there's another wheel bearing in there to check for smoothness.
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This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:07 PM   #16451
gladesteen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
As stated, the cush drive came apart (as it will when the wheel is taken off). But the sprocket is still bolted to the carrier - and there's another wheel bearing in there to check for smoothness.
thank you guys. Was just concerned when i pulled the wheel off (finally) after getting that stupid axle out. The sprocket and its guts came flying off too!

I guess ill clean the rubber bits up as best i can with some non-abrasive stuff and put it all back together. My tire should be mounted / balanced tomorrow. Cant wait!

-mark
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:55 PM   #16452
error cooled
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Location: Arlington, Virginia
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An oddity...

My 1996 SE model lacks a cush drive...

The parts diagram confirms this is right - as does internet banter...

What gives? Why was 1996 a cush-less year?
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:32 AM   #16453
mwilliamshs
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Arkansas
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good day off

I asked in this thread a week or so ago about aftermarket seat covers and go no reply at all. I was looking for something plain looking but nice for short commutes and cheaper than Seat Concepts cuz this thing is gonna bake in the sun while I'm at school and work, not out riding trails. Here's my review of a seat cover and some other parts.

Received my $30 ($35.80 shipped) ebay seat cover from Oregon from seller jrocksqueen2006. No affiliation just a pleased customer. Looked up the fabric (says "Authentic Enduratex" on the backside of the vinyl). This is nice heavy vinyl with some sort of fabric backing. About $12-15/yard online is the cheapest I could find it so I'd say they're making no more than $10 per cover by the time they cut to shape then stitch the covers and then print, paint etc the "Suzuki" on the sides. I'm impressed. Really Nice. Only gripe is that the item never showed to have been shipped and I was getting impatient when it appeared on my doorstep. Pleasantly surprised that it arrived much (like 50%) quicker than I'd expected but frustrated I'd not been notified it had shipped.

Also received my cheapo ebay footpegs ($14.99 shipped) from "d2moto", again not affiliated just reviewing my experience. Pretty nice. Not perfectly cast (1 tooth shorter than the others and kinda jagged on one peg, the other side is nearly perfect) but way better than my mangled originals. Mounted up nicely and fit the pins tight and are level with shifter and brake and perpendicular to the frame and swing up as they should (these were my main concerns when purchasing such cheap pegs, aside from strength and I've jumped around on them and smacked them a bit, seem very sturdy). The powdercoat is pretty weak but for $14.50 I'll touch them up with a redneck rattle. {krylon crayon} (graffiti juice) [spray paint]

Also got my Raptor knockoff petcock from ebay ($17.50 shipped) from crank-n-charge, again no affiliation. Nice as can be expected. Off don't flow, on does, reserve too...that's the general idea. Includes gasket. Fits as it should and no vacuum worries (my stocker was still working tho?!).

All this playing around in the shop raised a question: does a dirt model (kick only) use a different frame cover than an SE? I've got a left side panel that fits neither my 250S or my 350SE. It seems too flat. It hits the battety box and the starter solenoid. Inmate wisdom???

Oh and I have a shortened seat foam (that has a layer of thin foam glued on top of it to level and smooth it out) not done by my but VERY nicely crafted. I was disappointed to have to replace it! Also a fitted grey gripper cover for the short foam that fits our bikes that I'll sell if anybody's interested. It's really pretty nice but puts the seat about an inch to inch-and-a-half lower then stock and I'm not THAT short. It does have holes from staples but I removed them very carefully and I wouldn't hesitate to reinstall it if the right short-legged gal asked to ride one of my bikes regularly. Other than staple holes it's in nearly perfect shape. I was sad to spend the cash to replace such a nice setup. PM me for details, pics, etc. If nobody wants it I'll definitely keep it in a closet in case I do find an inseam-challenged filly I wanna drag back to the (bat) cave.

mwilliamshs screwed with this post 07-02-2013 at 02:09 AM Reason: make it mo betta
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:36 AM   #16454
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,114
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
i know this wont help your situation at all greg, and i appologize but i can say on my earlier model (93) with a 15-41 combo, i get 65mph at like 5300 rpm. it was a race car with those gears on it, and typcially only run them when i got the kenda's on it. its also tougher with the woman on back when i got those gears on it, gotta burn the clutch a bit sometimes. i droped to a 14 - 41 with the D606 on back and noticed about a 10mph speed difference at 5500 rpm. i thought about dropping even more, but so far this combo works out great with the woman on back, and really helped out in woods.
Your experience with the 15/41 and the early transmission gearing echoes my own. Great for making time on the pavement! :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:37 AM   #16455
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by error cooled View Post
An oddity...

My 1996 SE model lacks a cush drive...

The parts diagram confirms this is right - as does internet banter...

What gives? Why was 1996 a cush-less year?
The 1999 SE model I just purchased is cush-less too. I love it that way!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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