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Old 10-21-2007, 06:18 AM   #151
Matttys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
How far do the fork tubes stick out of the upper tripple clamp? Have you modded the fender for clearnce for the brace and checked that the brace doesn't hit anything when the forks are fully compressed?

good luck
That was on the order for this morning. I took off the stock fender and replaced it from the stock fender off my DRZ400SM. I think it may be a little taller than the stock one. I shall report back
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Old 10-21-2007, 07:53 AM   #152
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Even with the stock fender I think you are supposed to cut out the sides and use a fender brace. Before riding again it would be wise to check that there is clearance when the forks are fully compressed.
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Old 10-21-2007, 08:40 AM   #153
Torky
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more noob questions...

I think that "not knowing how to start my bike" has a lot to do with my troubles. After all, this machinery is unfamiliar to me.

1) How long does the bike have to cool off before you use the choke when you re-start it? I understand that if you park at 7-11, run in, and are back on the bike in 2 minutes you don't use the choke. How about a half hour? 2 hours? Some general guidelines would be helpful.

2) The fuel valve: There are 3 positions - ON, RES. and PRI. So, far, I've been leaving it in the ON position. I hear that when storing it for the winter, you should turn the valve off and run it until it dies, thus emptying the bowl in the carb. So, would PRI be the equivalent of OFF then? What the hell does PRI mean anyway?

3) Decompression lever: Uhh... what does this thing do?

4) I'm tempted to do the air-box and re-jetting mods if it will help with starting (after adjusting the valves to see if that helps, of course). How much does that mod affect gas milage and/or long term reliability/durability?
I like high miles per gallon and an engine that will last close to forever...

Finally, if anyone has a the tool box/bag and tools that came with the DR350 that they don't need, I'd be interested - my bike was missing the tools. Same goes for the owner's manual. I have the Clymer's, which is great, but it seems more interested in explaining how to work on your bike, rather than just how to operate the damned thing.
Sorry for the long post, and again, any advice and wisdom is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:14 AM   #154
wtrlogd
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I had a '91 DR350SE, bought new and sold 2 years ago, below is what worked on that bike, My '99 only has the "e" button:

How long does the bike have to cool off ...
Unless it's very cold out, and the bike has been off for 2-3 hours, you should not need the choke again during the day, once it's been running and fully warm

The fuel valve: There are 3 positions - ON, RES. and PRI.
PRI is the primer, doesn't use the diaphram the ON uses, think "freeflow"

Decompression lever
Opens a valve to let compression out of the cylinder making it much easier to turn the motor over

Cold engine:
Turn petcock to PRI, full choke, hold decomp level while turning engine over till lever pops out and kickshift is in proper position, then kick start it, NO Throttle, none. Once started, turn petcock back to ON and wait for engine revs to pick up on their own, then you can off/half choke depending on temps and now you can use the throttle

Warm engine:
Leave in ON position, no choke, hold decomp level while turning engine over till lever pops out and kickshift is in proper position, then kick start it, maybe/maybe not using throttle, as my bike got older, it started best with about half throttle when warm

wtrlogd screwed with this post 10-21-2007 at 09:30 AM
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:18 AM   #155
wtrlogd
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Decompression lever

One more thing;
If you flood the engine, usually when it's been upside down, hold the lever in while kicking over about 30 times, then try to start it
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:12 PM   #156
Matttys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
Even with the stock fender I think you are supposed to cut out the sides and use a fender brace. Before riding again it would be wise to check that there is clearance when the forks are fully compressed.
I chopped a bit out of the front fender. I think that was the hold up.

I still cannot believe that this happened while goofing off in the neighborhood and not while thrashing the bike on the trails!
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:13 PM   #157
Matttys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtrlogd
Decompression lever

One more thing;
If you flood the engine, usually when it's been upside down, hold the lever in while kicking over about 30 times, then try to start it
Per Jesse, when you are doing this you should also hold the throttle wide open to clear the passage.
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Old 10-21-2007, 03:41 PM   #158
johnnyandjebus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matttys
Just got those $25 footpegs off ebay today and installed them in 10 minutes.
Hey MAttys do you havea link for the footpegs on ebay? I have looked but can't find them.

Thanks!!
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Old 10-21-2007, 04:34 PM   #159
Helmet_Hair
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Here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUK...QQcmdZViewItem

and there's another set ending in 1hr. $17.90 buy-it now.



With regards to kickstarting the DR, there's a bit of a ritual to it. Learn it well and the DR will never let you down.
Here's what I do:

Cold: key off, pull decomp in and hold while I pump the kickstart with my hand 5 or 6 times to get the cylinder ready. I then let go of the decomp and it sticks. I then move the kicker slightly till the decomp pops out. choke on, key on, NO throttle (HANDS OFF!!), big kick all the way to the bottom. Second kick is the same: pull decomp lever in and let go of it (usually sticks), push gently with my foot till the decomp pops closed, big kick to the bottom and hold for a "1 mississippi"...she's usually running by then.

Hot: as above with the decomp. no choke, half throttle, 1 kick fires it off.

Give this a try...works every dang time for me.
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Old 10-21-2007, 08:52 PM   #160
wtrlogd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matttys
Per Jesse, when you are doing this you should also hold the throttle wide open to clear the passage.
Agreed, I forgot to mention that. Same on the electric start, but your leg doesn't get tired.

My biggest complaint with the '99 is the lack of a kick start. Luckly I've not needed it, yet.
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Old 10-21-2007, 08:58 PM   #161
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You can add a kick start if you want, the side case already has a place for one, you just need the shaft/gear and lever I think.
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Old 10-22-2007, 02:06 PM   #162
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtrlogd
The fuel valve: There are 3 positions - ON, RES. and PRI.
PRI is the primer, doesn't use the diaphram the ON uses, think "freeflow"
Careful, this is only true of the DR350S (or SE). The DR350 came with the 'pumper' carb (no vacuum port) and had a petcock with On/Off/Res settings. The vacuum petcocks have a tendancy to fail (and dump gas into the air box, or worse, the engine). The non-vacuum petcock is no longer available from Suzuki but I understand a WR400 petcock will work.
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Old 10-22-2007, 03:25 PM   #163
zilla
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Went to Start my 91 DR350 Saturday. Kicked it thru a couple times to more or less prime it, and on the third kick, it felt like someone had pulled the spark plug out. Haven't got a chance to really look at it yet, but i'm thinking it may be a valve issue.

Anyone have a similar experience?
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Old 10-22-2007, 04:13 PM   #164
dieseldave24v
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Is the compression release stuck on?????
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:11 PM   #165
electrolite
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Hey guys,
does anyone have any experience with the reinforced maier fender?

I have the fender on my bike right now, but I would like the bar there to strap luggage to and was wondering what the 7 mounting points are.

Also, can anyone recomend a decent aftermarket headlight? I have a stock offroad model headlight on it right now and its pretty feeble.
Or should I just upgrade the bulb?
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