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Old 07-08-2013, 06:08 PM   #16576
Thanantos
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
I'm 230 without gear. I called Jesse at Kientech (kientech.com) and he spec'd out a set of Eibach springs front and rear. After paying him $200 for springs and $50 to a buddy to install them I now have a very nicely suspended DR with fresh oil, seals and a nitrogen recharge.

Give Jesse a call, he'll set you up.
Thanks man. Good to know. I can see new springs in my future, but this bike is so new (1999 with 1,800 miles) I want to get a sense of how it rides with stock springs before upgrading.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:11 PM   #16577
Thanantos
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Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
For a 230 lbs rider? Just curious. What's stock too btw?
Stock is 5 weight oil, but never having dealt with a bike with cartridge forks I don't know if it will help or hurt adding heavier oil.

I just don't know, and no help so far.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:48 PM   #16578
CaptRick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanantos View Post
Stock is 5 weight oil, but never having dealt with a bike with cartridge forks I don't know if it will help or hurt adding heavier oil.

I just don't know, and no help so far.
Manual calls out 7.5 w I have used 10, 15 and 20w wo any issues
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:17 PM   #16579
brianjonesphoto
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Location: The Brier Patch, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanantos View Post
Stock is 5 weight oil, but never having dealt with a bike with cartridge forks I don't know if it will help or hurt adding heavier oil.

I just don't know, and no help so far.
Honestly your best bet is to get them resprung/revalved for your weight. With a cartridge fork you won't ge doing yourself any avows with thicker oil the will just be slow to respond. Yes it will cost you a few hundred buck, but suspension work is by far the best money you can spend on any bike.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:00 PM   #16580
mrpopgun
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Location: Southern Oregon
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Anybody have a used SE crank in good condition? Jesse can do a new crank and conn rod for me, but it's not cheap and I just don't have the cash.

I've got a dirt model if someone is interested.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:01 PM   #16581
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmansyz View Post
Compression ratios. I would think Nothing more than 11:1. And you would need 91+ octane fuel for it once the engine got hot. Anymore and you detonation. And I mean a real, measured 11:1. Not what the piston is rated at. Seems the production tolerances make them lower by up to a point. Sink the valves some and it goes down or have too much piston to head clearance and it goes down. Now, with this big of a piston that I am thinking, you may also wind up with a dished piston. Then you can adjust the final compression ration by spacing the cylinder head up along with the cylinder block as well.
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Sir,
You can buy mine for 1200.00 inmate special if you can get down to lawton in the next week. Already bored to 440 and put a bigger rear sprocket on it, you won't be able to keep the front wheel on the ground.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:19 PM   #16582
Thanantos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjonesphoto View Post
Honestly your best bet is to get them resprung/revalved for your weight. With a cartridge fork you won't ge doing yourself any avows with thicker oil the will just be slow to respond. Yes it will cost you a few hundred buck, but suspension work is by far the best money you can spend on any bike.
Thanks for the reply, and I completely agree.

However, I have to change the fork oil anyway and figured I'd ask if anyone had an experience experimenting with different weights.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:10 AM   #16583
gladesteen
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Joined: May 2013
Location: New Hampshire
Oddometer: 35
Worn chain symptoms?

I beleive i have a worn out chain.
Here is what i 'feel'. When in lower gears, say 1st/2nd, and at steady RPM i feel this surge back and forth motion. Doesnt really do it much in 4th, 5th, but definitely can feel it in the lower ones.

The chain is on #7 on the adjustments and the lower roller is very grooved along with the chain defense (the black hard rubber thing the chain rolls over). I have those two items on order, but probably need a chain. Do you agree from symptoms? Maybe something else?

I went to Rocky Mtn ATV and they dont seem to sell OEM chains. They do sell these 520 chains. Anyone have recommendations for a good one?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:28 AM   #16584
Greg Bender
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Hi Mark,

I've had very good luck with the "Primary Drive" sprockets and x-ring chains that Rocky Mountain sells.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

Quote:
Originally Posted by gladesteen View Post
I beleive i have a worn out chain.
Here is what i 'feel'. When in lower gears, say 1st/2nd, and at steady RPM i feel this surge back and forth motion. Doesnt really do it much in 4th, 5th, but definitely can feel it in the lower ones.

The chain is on #7 on the adjustments and the lower roller is very grooved along with the chain defense (the black hard rubber thing the chain rolls over). I have those two items on order, but probably need a chain. Do you agree from symptoms? Maybe something else?

I went to Rocky Mtn ATV and they dont seem to sell OEM chains. They do sell these 520 chains. Anyone have recommendations for a good one?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:26 AM   #16585
gladesteen
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Thanks Greg,

Will check that x-drive out.

I'm assuming the first items (chains & sprockets) that show up after you input bike info are the factory delivered sizes?

-Mark
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:35 AM   #16586
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gladesteen View Post
I beleive i have a worn out chain.
Here is what i 'feel'. When in lower gears, say 1st/2nd, and at steady RPM i feel this surge back and forth motion. Doesnt really do it much in 4th, 5th, but definitely can feel it in the lower ones.

The chain is on #7 on the adjustments and the lower roller is very grooved along with the chain defense (the black hard rubber thing the chain rolls over). I have those two items on order, but probably need a chain. Do you agree from symptoms? Maybe something else?

I went to Rocky Mtn ATV and they dont seem to sell OEM chains. They do sell these 520 chains. Anyone have recommendations for a good one?

Thanks,
Mark
Chain wear is based on strech, not nessarily 'feel'. A guy a couple of post ago stated that he was getting tons of slop like you mentioned. But his culprit was worn cush drive bumpers.

Also the number of adjustments is not that good of an indicator as different sprocket combos would yeild different tension points. If you have been adjsuting the same chain and sprockets tighter over the years that would be a decent indicator.

The way you can tell if your chain is worn is by:
-quick eye-ball method. Go to the rear sprocket. Grab the chain at the 3 o'clock postion. Pull it away from the sprocket. If you can pull it so that the chain comes off "x" number of teeth, you chain is done. I think 2 or 3 is the general number of teeth, not quite sure.
-Based on the Suzuki DR350 factory service manual it states to tighten up the chain all the way using the chain tension adjusters. Count out 21 pins (20 pitches), measure the distance between the pins. Service limit is 12.57" or 319.4mm. Page 2-9.

Suzuki does not make chains. OEM chains are either Takasago or Daido. 520 is the size of chain. O-ring chains are the type you want. X-rings are fancy O-ring chains. Then there is length. Stock is 108 for S and 110 for dirt. This based on sprocket combo sizes. Counting the links of your exisitng chain is the best. However this is tricky as what is a full link and what is half a link; use a marker to help indicate the first link when counting. Finally how are you going to attach the chain. Master links come in two types, Rivit-OEM, or clip. Rivit type is stronger but will require a special tool to make, not to mention knowledge/techniqe, as making a rivited ML connection too tight is bad. You do not need a tool to attach a clip type, though they sell one that aids in the installation of. Make sure the open end of the clip is facing away from the direction of travel of the chain.

Antoher thing to consider: Sprockets ususally wear out at the same rate as the chain. It is recomemed to repalce both sprockets and the chain at the same time.

I went with a "gold" primary drive X-ring chain with a clip type master link. i think I got a 110 but cut it down to a 108.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:51 AM   #16587
gladesteen
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Mr P!

Thank you!
That was a great writeup.
I'm looking at the chain + sprockets now for the S model.

-Mark
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:18 AM   #16588
thump!
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Clip vs Rivet. I have a rivet press, a very nice D.I.D. model, so I usually use rivet links. However I wouldn't be reluctant to use a clip link on the 350. The guideline I've always used is if the bike is likely to exceed 100 mph, use a rivet link since centrifugal force is the bain of clip links.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:47 AM   #16589
gmansyz
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Cool2 New choices

Okay guys, thanks for messing me up. Now I may get a KTM. Maybe a 510/525? But tell me more about the 450, please. I would prefer to stay away from water cooling but, it seems like it won't happen. I was hoping for something street legal as well. I think the KTM 450 is not? Can it be converted like 2Bold did with his KLX450???? I was thinking of one of these as well but the water thing is what was stopping me. Funny, Kawasaki only made them for three or four years? But, it does have potential and then I would really need to mess with the engine. Just shorten the gearing and ride after the street bike conversion. Where did you get yours from?
Thanks again everyone!
Sincerely
Greg
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:01 AM   #16590
MrPulldown
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Stopped on my ride home from work to click off this picture. That hazzy blue thing in the back ground is Lake Tahoe.

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