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Old 07-26-2013, 07:14 PM   #16891
veriest1
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Central Tejas
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It's not mine but there's a Dr350 instrument guard on eBay if anyone is wanting one.

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Old 07-27-2013, 09:57 AM   #16892
Ribsauce
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post

If you are cleaning the jets you really need to poke the little hole through .
Gotcha.

I have another problem. I got a new battery, but I guess the connector piece on the end of the positive cable (which connects the battery to the bike) broke clear off. I mean the piece which is like a 3 sided cube you use to screw the cables to the battery. The negative side still has it. I do not even know where to begin to search for a replacement. I guess I need to replace the metal clamp with the "cube" attached on the end and keep the original cable. Does anyone know where I can buy this?

As you can tell I am a mechanical moron.

edit

it looks like these are standard for all bikes. I just want this thing to run :(

Ribsauce screwed with this post 07-27-2013 at 09:59 AM Reason: .
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #16893
mustangwagz
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribsauce View Post
Gotcha.

I have another problem. I got a new battery, but I guess the connector piece on the end of the positive cable (which connects the battery to the bike) broke clear off. I mean the piece which is like a 3 sided cube you use to screw the cables to the battery. The negative side still has it. I do not even know where to begin to search for a replacement. I guess I need to replace the metal clamp with the "cube" attached on the end and keep the original cable. Does anyone know where I can buy this?

As you can tell I am a mechanical moron.

edit

it looks like these are standard for all bikes. I just want this thing to run :(
Can ya put a regular crimp on EYELET on the cable?
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:30 AM   #16894
OldUKBikerGuy
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
Oddometer: 26
Something a bit different?

Hi Guys,

I thought you might be interested in my re-worked 1997 DR350SE, first seen posted in it's originally tatty state back in January this year (post 14177).

Since then, I've stripped the bike to the frame, powder-coated it a more acceptable color and done a few modifications.






I was never a great fan of the rectangular headlight but loved the look of the Trail Tech used by other ADV-ers. (Too pricey for me though!)

I also liked the style of my old DR250 Djebel, but I found it to be so uncomfortable and gutless, I soon sold it.

Therefore I tried to create the best of all worlds, using a few cheap Ebay bits, some bits of tubing and my very amateur fabrication skills.

Powder-coated silver (along with the rear grab rails and bash-plate), it looks almost OEM!





The tank decals came from China and were the closest I could find to the later DualSport design. (Shame they got screwed up in the mail though.)

I also built a digital voltmeter for less than £10 ($15), as with only an electric start, I wanted to know the bike was charging OK. There was also room behind the fly-screen for an enduro-style tool bag.




Whilst the shock was apart for powder-coating, I added an old fork gaiter. No doubt it will chafe through in time, but it's got to help protect the shaft for a while.




With thanks to Greg Bender for the cross-reference, I was able to get a new RM250 front guard, but the rear Maiers are very rare in the UK.
By chance, one came up on Ebay after the seller had his bike stolen before he could fit it!

The brake/tail LED light unit is super minimal, but still legal in the UK.



The silencer/muffler was fitted by a PO, but I discovered it originally came from a ZZR600 Kawasaki! It sounds great and works well.

The extra seat I made from a garden kneeling pad (as a previous ADV-er said: 'because she's worth it....!)



Hope you like the bike, and thanks to ADV for all the help and inspiration!
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:10 AM   #16895
mustangwagz
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Nice!

Dood, sweet ride! You sure changed the look of that ole girl! Hats off to you my friend! Very nice!
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:44 PM   #16896
kobukan
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldUKBikerGuy View Post
Hi Guys,

I thought you might be interested in my re-worked 1997 DR350SE . . .
Nice job . . . that thing looks awesome!
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:34 PM   #16897
Ribsauce
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
Can ya put a regular crimp on EYELET on the cable?
Thanks. I went to Autozone and did this. I put it back together and now it keeps trying to start but it won't catch. At least I am learning a lot taking it apart all the time. The only problem is 2 screws on my carb, the top 2, both are almost stripped completely now.
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:06 PM   #16898
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,205
Installing TCI Racks on a '90 DR350S

Alright. I just got the TCI racks and I was surprised I couldn't find any reviews or installation tips. Figured I'd write up a little for someone who's a little confused as I was. (the included directions are comically useless)

Anyway here's what they look like installed. Really the only issue I had was mounting the frontmost mounting bolt.



I don't know if this has been the case for anyone else, but the only bolts they included that could be meant to mount the forward mounts were ridiculously way too big. I don't know if they were expecting me to ruin the threads already there or what, but it wouldn't even fit through the hole on the rack. And the bolts already on the bike weren't long enough to reach the threads through the rack. So I went out and bought some M8 bolts and washers to match. I'm pretty sure They were just the next size bigger. Here you can see the stock M8, new one, and the bolt they included.



Overall I really like them so far. First weekend I had them, I threw all the camping gear on them and spent 2 nights at Mid-Ohio racetrack for Vintage Motorcycle Days. I have zero complaints about them so far.

By the way, here's how they look with the Wolfman Expedition bags.

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:10 PM   #16899
Thanantos
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 3,614
Nice rack
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:29 PM   #16900
Ferdinand
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Thats the setup I was thinking about getting.
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:35 PM   #16901
veriest1
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Central Tejas
Oddometer: 2,237
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldUKBikerGuy View Post
Motorcycle Pron
OldUkBikerGuy: I'm drooling. Love the round headlight look and kudos to you for fabbing it up!

Here's my days farkle.

Added taller bars.


And then these old school Acerbis hand guards. They have blinkers that go on them but I don't feel like messing with them until after I pass inspection.



Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics but it's amazing what having a bike that fits will do for ones confidence off road.


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Old 07-27-2013, 11:10 PM   #16902
mwilliamshs
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Arkansas
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1992 dr250s

it ain't mine but there's a 1992 dr250s on ebay. apparently no reserve, starting at 99 cents. Says it needs tranny work.
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:44 AM   #16903
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribsauce View Post
Thanks. I went to Autozone and did this. I put it back together and now it keeps trying to start but it won't catch. At least I am learning a lot taking it apart all the time. The only problem is 2 screws on my carb, the top 2, both are almost stripped completely now.
on top of the diaphragm? (black cover?) best bet is take a pair of visegrips, and lock em down TIGHT on the heads and break em loose, then use scew driver to take em rest of way out. Now dont quote me on thread size, but im PRETTY sure they're 5mm thread. Best move would be to match em up with some new screws at hardware store. they MIGHT be machine screws though....but im thinking just metric 5mm thread if i remember correctly. WHen you replace them, dont use philips again...find some Allen Head Bolts that'll fit the thread pattern. This will save you from stripping out the phillips head screws in the future. Infact, if ya can and want, do this with ALL the bolts on your carb AND bike. haha.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:48 AM   #16904
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
on top of the diaphragm? (black cover?) best bet is take a pair of visegrips, and lock em down TIGHT on the heads and break em loose, then use scew driver to take em rest of way out. Now dont quote me on thread size, but im PRETTY sure they're 5mm thread. Best move would be to match em up with some new screws at hardware store. they MIGHT be machine screws though....but im thinking just metric 5mm thread if i remember correctly. WHen you replace them, dont use philips again...find some Allen Head Bolts that'll fit the thread pattern. This will save you from stripping out the phillips head screws in the future. Infact, if ya can and want, do this with ALL the bolts on your carb AND bike. haha.
Essential tool for disassembly - Impact driver. I really don't see how I could work on Japanese bikes without one. Secondly, those little 5mm screws should only be tightened down snug. Any more risks stripping the threads in the aluminum carb body. Someone is saying right now, OMG, what if it leaks? It won't, the diaphragm has an o-ring style seal. If it is intact all is well.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:08 AM   #16905
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Essential tool for disassembly - Impact driver. I really don't see how I could work on Japanese bikes without one. Secondly, those little 5mm screws should only be tightened down snug. Any more risks stripping the threads in the aluminum carb body. Someone is saying right now, OMG, what if it leaks? It won't, the diaphragm has an o-ring style seal. If it is intact all is well.
oh i agree on the impact driver man. i got one, and i got my dewalt 1/4 cordless impact that i use ALOT! my sidebyside has TONS of phillips head screws all over, every one i take out i replace with a hex or allen. haha i also agree on not needing to be TIGHT, but still installing different bolts wont hurt. Its a "best judgement" type of theory.
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