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Old 08-21-2013, 07:11 AM   #17461
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveHunter View Post
It's getting crazy in my head. Going off the rails on a crazy train. LOL
The first year of the DRZ400 was??
I'm going back and forth for probably only a few 100 $$, but I ain't got it so I've got to ask. These small bikes are not always street legal.
DRZ400 a better bike for similar $$?
DR350's are not that common on CL here. A couple of other sites I'm really seeing more KTM bikes similar CC for sale. Not similar price however.
I'm really wanting a Connecticut titled bike. It's just damn easier DMV wise than buying an out of state bike. Travel to go look and the whole title deal. I don't want a dirt only ride. I need it street legal in Connecticut.
The two big things for me are... The Dr350 has a 6 speed and the gearing is well spaced. It has a usable low gear and still has a high gear capable of high way speeds without feeling like it's going to fly apart at any minute. The DRZ really needs a 6th gear. And the air cooled vs water cooled thing. I wasn't in a hurry and waited till I could find a clean low mile '98/'99. If you don't have the time to look around, the newer DRZ or DR650 is still a good choice.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:17 AM   #17462
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juda5 View Post
Not at all cheap, and it looks like someone swapped out the cartridge front end for an earlier damper rod unit.

I think that's cheating!
...and why do you suppose they did that? It's probably been crashed pretty hard would be my guess
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:42 AM   #17463
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
That's the third '98/'99 UK DR350 with early forks I've seen on this thread.
I think that Suzuki delivered the earlier front forks to the UK for 97, 98, and 99. I'm not 100% sure on that, but I recall UK posters complaining about that in the past.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:44 AM   #17464
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Originally Posted by skelethon View Post
Thanks guys. Fluid looks OK. PO maintained the bike pretty well in all other areas but other than the color of the fluid, not completely sure. I'll get it changed this weekend. When I stopped and messed with the caliper, the pads seemed to separate pretty easily with a little pressure. As far as changing the fluid, just drain refill and bleed?
Measure the thickness of the brake disc and compare that to the minimum thickness stamped on the disc (3.5mm, IIRC). If you are at or near the minimum and the pads are worn, it is possible that the pistons are getting pushed out too far and "slightly jamming". The fix is a replacement brake disc and fresh pads.

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Old 08-21-2013, 07:54 AM   #17465
High Country Herb
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Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
had to go and use the F word, not kind
Oops, sorry. I just meant that the riders were light weight, and didn't push the bike hard. There are certainly some wild female motocross riders out there, but in general women don't tend to thrash dirt bikes like men do.

Am I just digging myself in deeper? I'll shut up now.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:01 AM   #17466
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Country Herb View Post
Oops, sorry. I just meant that the riders were light weight, and didn't push the bike hard. There are certainly some wild female motocross riders out there, but in general women don't tend to thrash dirt bikes like men do.

Am I just digging myself in deeper? I'll shut up now.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:16 AM   #17467
skelethon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Measure the thickness of the brake disc and compare that to the minimum thickness stamped on the disc (3.5mm, IIRC). If you are at or near the minimum and the pads are worn, it is possible that the pistons are getting pushed out too far and "slightly jamming". The fix is a replacement brake disc and fresh pads.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

good info.

thanks.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:51 AM   #17468
bavarian
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No idle - what to do

I am a proud owner of a clean 1990 DR 350 with a Mikuni carburetor, the flat slide one. I was riding it happily to Sardinia this year when all of a sudden there was no idle anymore. I cleaned the carb as I did not see any obvious faults, got it to a local mechanic who did not find any fault either but charged me 95 bucks. I can ride it but have to keep the RPMs above 4000 when standing otherwise it dies. Any ideas anyone? Spark plug is new (color is black, so it is running much too rich now while it was okay for the past 8000 kms), valves have been checked and are okay, no leaks in the airbox.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:56 AM   #17469
Anonawesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarian View Post
I am a proud owner of a clean 1990 DR 350 with a Mikuni carburetor, the flat slide one. I was riding it happily to Sardinia this year when all of a sudden there was no idle anymore. I cleaned the carb as I did not see any obvious faults, got it to a local mechanic who did not find any fault either but charged me 95 bucks. I can ride it but have to keep the RPMs above 4000 when standing otherwise it dies. Any ideas anyone? Spark plug is new (color is black, so it is running much too rich now while it was okay for the past 8000 kms), valves have been checked and are okay, no leaks in the airbox.
Jammed idle air screw? Would cause a rich condition, it's on the outside of the carb (susceptible to dirt/mud), but I'm not sure it would have an effect as high as 4000rpm. Just a quick easy first check.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:05 AM   #17470
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
I went with Progressive. Part of the reason my insurance is low probably is I'm older and with the DR added I now get a multi-vehicle discount, plus its liability only. I'm also carrying a pretty big deductible ($500 USD). I'm sure they figure that whatever I hit with a DR won't sustain much damage
That is funny I have Progressive for my bike as well. However my premiums are $75 a year. They said that is the lowest they will go. However I remember pay much less than that with other bikes in the past. Liability only. I guess it makes sense if you have multi vehicles with them. My cars are all connected with my house insurance. And they gave me a worse rate for the DR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarian View Post
I am a proud owner of a clean 1990 DR 350 with a Mikuni carburetor, the flat slide one. I was riding it happily to Sardinia this year when all of a sudden there was no idle anymore. I cleaned the carb as I did not see any obvious faults, got it to a local mechanic who did not find any fault either but charged me 95 bucks. I can ride it but have to keep the RPMs above 4000 when standing otherwise it dies. Any ideas anyone? Spark plug is new (color is black, so it is running much too rich now while it was okay for the past 8000 kms), valves have been checked and are okay, no leaks in the airbox.
It is pretty well documented that those TM33 carbs wear out. The slide is teflon coated and seems to wear where it contact the carb body. When worn air will sneak past the slide and cuase erratic idle. Worn past this coating and it starts to wear on the carb body itself. If you catch it early enough you can jsut replace the slide. If not one needs to replace the entire carb. Seems like this should be a noted maintance item. "Every 1000 hours of use the carb slide should be replaced".

I was able to get it rideable by bumping the idle set screw very high. As the idle would fluctuate low, it would remain within running RPMS. It was not without it share of other problems.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:12 AM   #17471
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarian View Post
I am a proud owner of a clean 1990 DR 350 with a Mikuni carburetor, the flat slide one. I was riding it happily to Sardinia this year when all of a sudden there was no idle anymore. I cleaned the carb as I did not see any obvious faults, got it to a local mechanic who did not find any fault either but charged me 95 bucks. I can ride it but have to keep the RPMs above 4000 when standing otherwise it dies. Any ideas anyone? Spark plug is new (color is black, so it is running much too rich now while it was okay for the past 8000 kms), valves have been checked and are okay, no leaks in the airbox.
Starting/choke plunger not seating correctly....idle air jet stopped up ( in the carb throat...aircleaner side) or idle fuel jet missing or wrong size.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:59 AM   #17472
ceke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
That is funny I have Progressive for my bike as well. However my premiums are $75 a year. They said that is the lowest they will go. However I remember pay much less than that with other bikes in the past. Liability only. I guess it makes sense if you have multi vehicles with them. My cars are all connected with my house insurance. And they gave me a worse rate for the DR.
Geico added $34/yr to my policy for my plated 96 DR350, liability only. The low price might be due my old age and multiple vehicles (7) with them.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:35 PM   #17473
slartidbartfast
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When I added a fourth (lowly 125cc dualsport) to my Progrssive policy, the extra bike discount was greater than the added premium.

Note that I carry full insurance, including UUIM (which is expensive) on the other bikes but the fourth one is almost never ridden.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:54 PM   #17474
The Jester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Sounds like you have it figured out. Time for a new piston, rings and a hone job. Oh yeah, and a bigger main jet.
Got it in 1



Current piston is 3mm over, higher compression. Obviously the piston is history. It also needs boring out again as the barrel is quite badly pitted round the top. (Difficult to see but it's at 12 and 2 O'clock on the picture)


I also need to figure out the gear change issue. It started the day OK and I did not drop the bike so the lever / shaft hasn't taken a hit. Half way through the day the bike started dropping down gears. When the throttle was open it would stay in gear but shutting off the gas would frequently result in the bike dropping down a gear. It would also drop from neutral into first gear if I started the bike without pulling the clutch in. I worked out that the gear lever was sometimes staying in the raised position and this would result in being unable to shift up and the bike dropping a gear when the throttle was closed. If I tapped the lever down gently with the throttle open it would usually return to its normal position when the gearbox would behave normally until the next up shift.

I checked the lever to ensure it was not catching so it must be something internal. As it is happening in different gears and from neutral I suspect that the problem is not with the gears themselves; I am leaning towards the shift forks or springs attached to them. Any thoughts? Will I be able to sort this without splitting the cases?
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:59 PM   #17475
veriest1
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Originally Posted by ceke View Post
Geico added $34/yr to my policy for my plated 96 DR350, liability only. The low price might be due my old age and multiple vehicles (7) with them.
They charge me $65 a year liability+ $1000 medical coverage. I'm 28.

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