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Old 08-25-2013, 06:55 PM   #17566
Anonawesome
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Location: Central OH
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Yeah that's a lean condition. There's probably a very sensitive area where it won't idle too low, and it won't hang. Adjusting your idle air screw can help, (usually needs no more than a half turn, but don't be afraid to make smaller adjustments) or you might have an air leak. If you suspect the latter, spray some starter fluid on areas that should have a seal while it's running. (intake boot, header boot, etc.) If it bogs down, you have a leak, and you found the culprit. That's probably one of my favorite troubleshooting tests because it's so easy.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:59 PM   #17567
Anonawesome
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But also keep in mind that DR350's aren't the best at idling. So don't expect it to purr like a kitten. I have to blip the throttle at stops because it will idle fine, then randomly die. I won't be messing with jetting until I've fixed the fact that it burns oil. You can buy all the jets you want and never get it right if it's burning oil.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:18 PM   #17568
mrchristian
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Hey everyone-- I did a lot of searching through old threads and couldn't find a active link with a PDF copy of the service manual. I just sold my Pregen Ninja 250 picked up a '98 DR350SE and am looking for specs to set the valves. From what I understand, the Clymer manual will not work due to model changes.

Also, my bike came with a strange extension added to the exhaust. Can anyone surmise what the purpose of this was? Maybe to quiet it down? I'm probably going to leave it. (if it ain't broke...)



Despite this, and having 12,000 miles, it's pretty well sorted. Acerbis tank, no fueling issues, idles beautifully and it starts with the first hit of the starter every practically every time.

The best thing about the Pregen was the community--Ninjette Forums and Ninja 250 Wiki are downright excellent even though the bike had some flaws. Any equivalent site for the DR's?

Thanks,

-mrchristian
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:31 PM   #17569
a1fa
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looks like a dork..
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:38 PM   #17570
Anonawesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrchristian View Post




-mrchristian
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:56 PM   #17571
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
My bike does that hanging idle thing too once warm if I have the thumb turnable idle adjustment up too high. It won't take much.. once warm if set at 1500 rpm it will return as soon as you dump the throttle. If it's set a bit higher at like 2000 rpm, it will hang around 4000 for a couple seconds.

Kinda sucks when I have it set for 1500 rpm when it's not up to temp (and not hanging then) . Then once warm it hangs.
This is probably stating the obvious, but.... There is a ballance between the starting enrichment circuit (choke), the idle circuit (idle fuel jet and idle air jet... controled by the "Pilot Screw"), and the idle speed screw. When these are working properly, you start the bike with the the choke on until it warms up. Then turn off the choke and the bike idles on the idle circuit. If any part isn't working right (stopped or partially stopped up jets...air leaks...choke plunger not sealing...idle speed set too high) or it doesn't warm up enough (or gets too hot) it's not going to function properly. This of course assumes the motor and carb are in good condition.
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:10 PM   #17572
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
But also keep in mind that DR350's aren't the best at idling. So don't expect it to purr like a kitten. I have to blip the throttle at stops because it will idle fine, then randomly die. I won't be messing with jetting until I've fixed the fact that it burns oil. You can buy all the jets you want and never get it right if it's burning oil.
Mine idles great. Choke works like it should. It will idle down to almost nothing. Like a friend and co-worked use to say...RIP Peter... "Hits like a frog-a-walkin."
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:11 PM   #17573
mrchristian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Yeah, I'm confused about it too. Backyard engineering for sure. I'll probably get a stock pipe off eBay if I even get around to it.

Not sure why people always have to mess around with exhaust pipes. My WR400F came from the previous owner with a terrible, noisy, ill-fitting Big Gun exhaust that was just rotting away. Got a stock system and it was 100% better. Power, sound, everything.

My PSA for today. Stop modifying bikes and making them worse, especially if you don't know what you are doing.
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mrchristian screwed with this post 08-25-2013 at 08:24 PM
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:21 PM   #17574
Anonawesome
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^^^ +1
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:02 AM   #17575
MrPulldown
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My bike purrs like a kitten.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:32 AM   #17576
plugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
But also keep in mind that DR350's aren't the best at idling. So don't expect it to purr like a kitten. I have to blip the throttle at stops because it will idle fine, then randomly die. I won't be messing with jetting until I've fixed the fact that it burns oil. You can buy all the jets you want and never get it right if it's burning oil.
mine idles perfect but, (or because) its stock.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:42 AM   #17577
tkent02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
But also keep in mind that DR350's aren't the best at idling. So don't expect it to purr like a kitten. I have to blip the throttle at stops because it will idle fine, then randomly die. I won't be messing with jetting until I've fixed the fact that it burns oil. You can buy all the jets you want and never get it right if it's burning oil.
All the DR350s (and other sizes) I've ridden have idled purrfectly.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:36 AM   #17578
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Hello Greg,

I don't have a store yet, but I have some parts listed at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038. Most of it is for the BST40, but as I'm sure you already know, there is quite a bit of crossover to the BST33 (see item SUZ0111100002 for instance). I also stock BST33 slide guides.

Regards,

Derek
Thanks for the link, Derek :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:42 AM   #17579
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
One of those times I broke my clutch lever and another really tweaked the front end. Are all clutch levers created equally? Any recommendations? I'm hoping to get something with a longer pull (more of a bend?) since I only have a very small sweet spot in the adjustment where the clutch won't slip and it changes gears without issue.
I've always fit the OEM levers as they are cheap enough and the fit is perfect. Plus, I like to keep ordering OEM parts so that Suzuki will recognize the demand and keep making the parts for many years to come.

Someone recently mentioned some MSR levers (I think) that had a needle bearing for very smooth and easy operation. Sounded nice :>

I've got hand guards fit in place and those go a long way toward saving your levers in the first place. I've crashed a bunch of times and I've never bent a lever with hand guards in place (though I'm sure it is possible). Here are the ones I use:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d..._-_tusk_d-flex

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:48 AM   #17580
AST236
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Went for a little ride yesterday. I just got this bike a while back and will do some mods this winter. For now, I'm just riding and enjoying. This photo was taken in Burnt Corn, AL, part of the Old Federal Road system.


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