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Old 10-27-2010, 08:12 AM   #6151
UpST8
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: californication
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Another Cush drive question..

I know it must be in here somewhere, but I will ask one more time.

Can you swap cush drive rears out with non-cush drive? I have 94 350SE and the cush bearing failed during an off road ride, damage inside the hub is substantial and may be replaced. I have ordered the parts to rebuild it; bearing, oil seal, spacer. Now, I honestly can't figure how it goes back together correctly....looking at the fiches on Bike Bandit and Ron Ayers shows the way, but when I try that it is not right.

Looking at the damage inside the hub and replacement cost, I might as well get a used non-cush wheel.

What are the dangers to transmission and/or engine running a NON-cush drive on the street.

I am trying to keep this bike in the dirt alot more, but the occasional road is unavoidable.

Will get pics up shortly.

Thanks
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:03 AM   #6152
UpST8
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Question pics

So, this is what came in the mail...

Spacer, Oil Seal and Bearing...

This was out of stock and back ordered...called Hub Retainer on fitch..


Looking at fitch it all goes in like this

Of course much straighter and level

The inside of the hub looks bad, I knocked out the old race from the bad bearing. Underneath that there appears another race??? Could be wrong though, it doesn't show on the fiche. It is chewed up quite well...


oVERALL VIEW

The freshly shaved aluminun on the hub is from where it grinded after failure on a screw on the swingarm. Swing arm is good, thank god.

My biggest confusion right now is how the Retainer fits in?? It is too large to slide into the bearing and I honestly don't know which way it even goes in. Again the fitch shows it inboard on the bearing, but it ain't gonna happen..

Any inmates out there willing to take a pic of the inside of their cush drive to show me how this works?

Any similiar experiences out there??

Really need to get this bike up and going again, so I can work on my other one and still ave a ride to work.

I am lost right now and standing by for advice.
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Old 10-27-2010, 01:08 PM   #6153
Jerry Atrick
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Athens, GA
Oddometer: 37
Longer than stock shifter

Baja Designs has long-since dropped it's DR350 replacement. Anybody know another source for a longer-than-stock shift lever? ('99 DR350SE)
Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:11 PM   #6154
rubberband
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Location: Michigan
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Ok I have dug into my motor to try and figure out why it is eating oil. 97SE with 5500 miles on it. I'll let the photos speak, then look for some feedback.



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rubberband screwed with this post 10-27-2010 at 04:59 PM
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:16 PM   #6155
Klay
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: right here on my thermarest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender
Hi Klay,

I love Guzzis! Do you have a particular one you are interested in?

I've got a bit of Guzzi info here for some of the models:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/

Regards,

Gregory Bender

Thanks for the link. If I get another motorcycle, my wife would be very unhappy.
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:43 PM   #6156
BikePilot
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Location: Tampa
Oddometer: 11,163
Quote:
Originally Posted by UpST8
I know it must be in here somewhere, but I will ask one more time.

Can you swap cush drive rears out with non-cush drive? I have 94 350SE and the cush bearing failed during an off road ride, damage inside the hub is substantial and may be replaced. I have ordered the parts to rebuild it; bearing, oil seal, spacer. Now, I honestly can't figure how it goes back together correctly....looking at the fiches on Bike Bandit and Ron Ayers shows the way, but when I try that it is not right.

Looking at the damage inside the hub and replacement cost, I might as well get a used non-cush wheel.

What are the dangers to transmission and/or engine running a NON-cush drive on the street.

I am trying to keep this bike in the dirt alot more, but the occasional road is unavoidable.

Will get pics up shortly.

Thanks

Yes and probably none. Somewhere in the mid 1990's suzuki did away with the cush drive on the street model. I've yet to hear of a gearbox failure. I suspect it will feel slightly less smooth, particularly at low rpm/high throttle settings. You may also get somewhat faster chain/sprocket wear if you do a lot of street riding, but this (re wear) is somewhat speculative on my part.

The non-cush wheel is substantially lighter than the cush wheel. I'd be a good upgrade for anyone doing mostly dirt. If you ride mostly street the cush might be worth retaining, though suzuki didn't think so.
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:50 PM   #6157
wardie
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Oddometer: 198
no spark

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender
Hi wardie,

Your spark results seem inconsistent, let me see if I get this...

1. high tension lead only = spark
2. high tension lead + spark plug cap without a spark plug = no spark
3. high tension lead + spark plug without a spark plug cap = no spark

If this is correct, how did you test for spark with number 2? I can see number 3 being difficult to test, too, without getting shocked?

My first recommendation is to try the cheap and easy stuff. Get a new spark plug cap and a new spark plug and try things again. Here is a good replacement cap:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...g_resistor_cap

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Gregory thanks for trying to help. I put a phillips screw driver in the NGK cap and placed the metal shaft near the head and no spark.

I went through the resistance tests and found that the primary side reads no resistance and the secondary side is below minimum specs. I ordered a coil from my local shop (about $70). They will let me test it before I take it so I'll know whether it compares one way or another to my coil. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I did try a new cap and spark plug to no avail. Wardie
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:08 AM   #6158
DRrider8329
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have a 92' S model. transmission issues. pulling motor out and apart and splitting the cases this weekend
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:45 AM   #6159
jplum1556
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Platteville, Wi
Oddometer: 102
Anyone have a spare clutch perch for the 350se? I took a tumble and snapped mine this last week.
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Old 10-28-2010, 12:50 PM   #6160
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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You mean the clutch lever?
I'd just order one they are pretty cheap. Might have to disconnect the Clutch start switch, since most cheap after market ones do not have the swtich even though yuo order the "SE" version. The switchs jsut interrupets the starter line, which is located under the headlight cover. Unplug switch line and recconect the two line. End terminals are already in place.
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:12 PM   #6161
yondering
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Location: NW Wa. state
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband
Ok I have dug into my motor to try and figure out why it is eating oil. 97SE with 5500 miles on it. I'll let the photos speak, then look for some feedback.



Moar pichers!

From what we can see, I'd guess some blowby past the rings (see the black/brown on the piston below the compression rings, down to the oil ring). Could be valve guides/seals too? Need to see more of the piston. Pics of the top of the head and cam would be good too.

Your valves and seats look pretty bad. Time for new valves and a valve job. (See all the carbon on the exhaust valve seats, and the huge seating area, with a little lip, on the intake valves.)

It's easier to determine the source of oil consumption and low compression before you take the motor apart, with a compression test and some oil. Test the compression, then put some engine oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Test the compression again; if it went up significantly, the rings are bad. If it didn't, it's the valves.

My guess is you've got a fairly high mileage motor, and it's time for a whole top end rebuild. Maybe the bottom end too? Check your bearings (per specs in the service manual).
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:13 PM   #6162
rubberband
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering
Moar pichers!

From what we can see, I'd guess some blowby past the rings (see the black/brown on the piston below the compression rings, down to the oil ring). Could be valve guides/seals too? Need to see more of the piston. Pics of the top of the head and cam would be good too.

Your valves and seats look pretty bad. Time for new valves and a valve job. (See all the carbon on the exhaust valve seats, and the huge seating area, with a little lip, on the intake valves.)

It's easier to determine the source of oil consumption and low compression before you take the motor apart, with a compression test and some oil. Test the compression, then put some engine oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Test the compression again; if it went up significantly, the rings are bad. If it didn't, it's the valves.

My guess is you've got a fairly high mileage motor, and it's time for a whole top end rebuild. Maybe the bottom end too? Check your bearings (per specs in the service manual).
motor used oil when i got it....with 3500miles on it....unless someone swapped out the odometer...Hmmmm
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:13 PM   #6163
rubberband
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Ok more pics... hard to get a good one of the cylinder.



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Old 10-28-2010, 05:22 PM   #6164
rubberband
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So with what has been said....I'm a little bummed. I was hoping to just replace the piston, rings, valve seals. maybe buy 2 exhaust valves, and lap or clean up the others. ...etc. I had not planned on a total ground up smithsonian resurrection. I don't want a new bike I just want this one to stop eating oil. Is there a cheaper solution? I need to get the cylinder measured, and check into a head/valve job.

What should I look for on the bottom end?

If not maybe the procycle 385 kit??

Damn motorcycles...why must they be so fun.
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:44 PM   #6165
jplum1556
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Location: Platteville, Wi
Oddometer: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown
You mean the clutch lever?
I'd just order one they are pretty cheap. Might have to disconnect the Clutch start switch, since most cheap after market ones do not have the swtich even though yuo order the "SE" version. The switchs jsut interrupets the starter line, which is located under the headlight cover. Unplug switch line and recconect the two line. End terminals are already in place.
Not the clutch lever. It's the bracket that holds the clutch lever to the handlebars. I believe clutch perch is what its called...
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