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Old 10-28-2010, 06:12 PM   #6166
Ghostpilots
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Joined: May 2010
Oddometer: 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by jplum1556
Not the clutch lever. It's the bracket that holds the clutch lever to the handlebars. I believe clutch perch is what its called...
How attached are you to your mirrors? I have an aftermarket one with no mirror mount, but the price is right (free + shipping)
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:05 PM   #6167
Suzuki Phil
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Oddometer: 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by UpST8
I know it must be in here somewhere, but I will ask one more time.

Can you swap cush drive rears out with non-cush drive? I have 94 350SE and the cush bearing failed during an off road ride, damage inside the hub is substantial and may be replaced. I have ordered the parts to rebuild it; bearing, oil seal, spacer. Now, I honestly can't figure how it goes back together correctly....looking at the fiches on Bike Bandit and Ron Ayers shows the way, but when I try that it is not right.

Looking at the damage inside the hub and replacement cost, I might as well get a used non-cush wheel.

What are the dangers to transmission and/or engine running a NON-cush drive on the street.

I am trying to keep this bike in the dirt alot more, but the occasional road is unavoidable.

Will get pics up shortly.

Thanks
I have both types of wheels for my 96 DR305SE. Cush wheel has a dirt tire and the non-cush has a street tire. Can't really tell any difference. My cush wheel is from a 95 DR250 purchased from ebay. Needed nothing for the cush drive wheel to fit my DR350SE as it came with all the spacers.

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Old 10-28-2010, 07:41 PM   #6168
Suzuki Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband
Ok I have dug into my motor to try and figure out why it is eating oil. 97SE with 5500 miles on it. I'll let the photos speak, then look for some feedback.



Last year a friend gave me his 95 Ninja 250, he was going to give it for scrap but called me and I gladly took it off his hands. It would start but smoke pretty bad. It had 30K on the odo. Besides the smoke the bike was in great condition.

Didn't want to spend alot of money on the engine so I tore the top end off (head and cylinders), checked all dimensions per the service manual and found all to be within spec. So with that info I cleaned all the oil from the valves and heads and pistons. Ordered new rings from Kawi, put her back together and vroomm, no smoke. Bike ran great. Drove it for a few thousand miles and then sold it for twice what I had into it.

So you could do a low budget rebuild and probably fix your problem. Your pictures don't look that bad. Clean everything up, lap the valves, break the glaze on the cylinder, new rings, new valve seals etc.

If you have access to a service manual and micrometers check the piston size and cylinder size. If they are in spec you should be ok.

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Old 10-28-2010, 11:48 PM   #6169
straight cut
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Location: GREAT BRITAIN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband
Ok I have dug into my motor to try and figure out why it is eating oil. 97SE with 5500 miles on it. I'll let the photos speak, then look for some feedback.



If your after a quick re build then i would,
Clean up the head ,valve stems and install new valve guide oil seals because there is a fair build up of crud on the head and valves.
Clean up the piston, piston rings and slots.
The skirt of the piston looks clean it should be with only 5,500 mls on the clock
The rockers seem to be ok
I cant belive its drinking oil after the low mileage
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:13 AM   #6170
bhd1223
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Location: CT
Oddometer: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by straight cut
I cant belive its drinking oil after the low mileage
If the rings never seated properly to the cylinder then it makes complete sense.
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:12 AM   #6171
BikePilot
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The piston really looks just fine to me. From all the residue on the intake valve I'd guess you intake valve stem seals are bad and that's the source of your oil consumption. You can measure ring gap and piston clearance to confirm, but I bet they are just fine. If so, just put in new valve stem seals, clean it all up and put it back together.
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:29 AM   #6172
slickrocklover
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443 piston?

Anyone know a source for the 89.5 mm JE piston?
I have a 89mm jug that has a few scratches and would like to bore it.
I believe it is special order only from JE but perhaps someone has one sitting around?
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:53 AM   #6173
jplum1556
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Platteville, Wi
Oddometer: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilots
How attached are you to your mirrors? I have an aftermarket one with no mirror mount, but the price is right (free + shipping)
I like my mirrors with all the street riding I do. Thanks for the offer but I'll have to pass on that.

I'm currently in the process of tearing apart my 350, on the 4th floor of a college dorm room of all places. I'm planning to paint it orange-black and maybe bore it to 385.

There's this one wire that goes to the engine and connects to some sort of a cover. I have no clue what it is and can't seem to find it in the service manual. Here's a pic of it, unknown item is in the red circle.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...6/_A283330.jpg
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Old 10-29-2010, 10:02 AM   #6174
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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A few pages back someone linked to the page for parting out their bike. Boardrider (?) I think his name was.

On the topic of compression testing. Isn't it difficulte to get a good reading due to the auto decompression, Mine showed about 85psi when i tested it. Based on what I know of engines, that shouldn't even run. How do you get a real compression reading with the auto decomp feature??
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:21 PM   #6175
Bob Onit
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Location: Population 174
Oddometer: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by jplum1556
There's this one wire that goes to the engine and connects to some sort of a cover. I have no clue what it is and can't seem to find it in the service manual. Here's a pic of it, unknown item is in the red circle.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...6/_A283330.jpg
It's for the "Neutral" light on the gauge cluster
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:08 PM   #6176
jplum1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
It's for the "Neutral" light on the gauge cluster
Ah. That makes sense. Thanks man.
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:41 PM   #6177
yondering
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Location: NW Wa. state
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband

Sorry, but this intake valve is definitely bad. See the large seat contact area, and the lip at the edge of that? The contact area should be maybe half of that, or less, and no lip.

I can't tell from the pictures if the exhaust valves are OK; they are too carboned up.. If you cleaned them up, and took some more close up pictures, it would help.

Does your cylinder have any of the cross-hatching marks left from the honing, or is it shiny and smooth? Can't tell from the picture.

Bare minimum, you need a valve job, cylinder hone, and new rings. The intake valves need to be replaced, I don't think you can clean those up enough. Personally I'd bore the cylinder and go for the 376 or 385cc Wiseco piston; you can get the piston/rings for ~$120 or less on ebay, and cylinder bore/hone should be less than $100 at a good shop.

The new valves and valve job will be the expensive part of your repair.

BTW, from the pictures, the head, cam journals, rockers, etc all appear to be in good shape.

I'm guessing this bike either had really poor break-in, or had a used motor swapped in.
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:03 PM   #6178
MrPulldown
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What is up the "R" version of our bikes. The most noticeable difference is the head light plastic cover. Is it interchangeable with the SE version.
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Old 10-30-2010, 01:02 AM   #6179
3uba296
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Sweden
Oddometer: 130
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown
What is up the "R" version of our bikes. The most noticeable difference is the head light plastic cover. Is it interchangeable with the SE version.
That would be the Dirt version?
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:10 AM   #6180
Peatrich
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Location: Sheffield UK
Oddometer: 14
Engine topend

Hi Straightcut.

I have had exactly the same problem as you, though my engine has done 14000miles. I was using 5mls of oil per mile! In your terms thats a quart every 2000 miles!

My engine looked very similar to yours and I took the cylinder, piston, head and valves to an engine mechanic. (He prepares 70's Honda bike engines for racing). He noticed first that the cylinder was badly glazed (shiny honey colour) that the valves needed replacing and that the rings were approaching their wear limit. The piston, apart from the carbon on top was fine.

He honed the cylinder, lapped in new valves, replaced the valve seals and supplied new rings. I have put the engine back together with a new gasket set and have done a couple of a hundred miles on it this week with no appreciable loss of oil. BTW he recommended semi synthetic so I have used Castrol GTS racing oil.

Still running it in but all now seems good.

Best of luck

Peter.
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