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Old 02-07-2011, 06:55 AM   #7066
jcalis
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Location: S.E. Massachusetts
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Quote:
Would a 98 DR350 Kicker have the same shock and progressive spring?
I have not seen the later dirt models, only early and late street model DR350's. I am not sure what spring your bike has on it.

I did buy an early dirt model shock (1991) for my bike, and the spring was stiffer compared to the stock 1992 "S" model.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:42 AM   #7067
EastBoundAndDown
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Originally Posted by rubberband View Post
I put on a set of these...ATV bend gets you about a 2in rise...cheaper too. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...3437&colorAttr=
I bought these so I can keep the same bars and even cheaper yet, but what you posted is a good deal for sure.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=25849
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:47 AM   #7068
brianjonesphoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I think a better solution would be to call Procycle and request their lowered and rear-moved brackets. I assume you are taller to match your big feet? These brackets are the actual peg bracket, not a lowering plate that reduces ground clearance, so it is easier to stand and "opens up " the cockpit a little for taller people. If you weld or know a good welder you could modify your stock brackets in the same way. Look at procycles web site for pics.
Those pegs only fit the DR650. I thought that would be the perfect solution when I found them, but they don't fit. I sent Pro Cycle an email asking about it and here's their response
Quote:
The DR350 peg mounts are very different. They are not interchangeable.
Because DR350s have not been made for 13 years we don’t believe there is enough demand to justify producing lower footpegs for them.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:58 AM   #7069
LawrenceTheCat
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Mighty Susquehanna- Lancaster PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi Fred,

Both rides were great. It was dark (and cold) for the first hour of my DR350 ride, but most of that is pavement and fast dirt roads. Still, I crossed a couple of streams where the ice on the entries/exits was at least 3/8" thick. :> Once the sun rose I was quite comfortable and I was really able to enjoy the dirt. Good stuff. My dirt skills keep improving on the DR.

I'm just now ironing out the bugs on the Convert, but that thing puts a huge smile on my face every time I ride it. Good group at the Guzzi breakfast (the usual suspects).

The Clarke tank accepts the original petcock. When I bought and fit my Clarke tank, I also bought the Yamaha Raptor petcock and fit it. If memory serves, the raptor petcock came with filters over the tubes. Here is one place to buy the raptor petcock:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...500-01-00.html

I did not fit an inline filter between the tank and the carb - so I think the Raptor petcock must have had filters on it. I'll take a look later today when the sun is up and see if I can determine for certain.

Edit: I confirm that the Raptor petcock does have filters on the inlet tubes.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
I noticed the Raptor unit has a longer "on" pickup tube than stock, and my first tankful confirmed it, lost a few miles in the on position. Kinda sucks to be riding in the twilight zone of reserve, I just drained my tank into a container while on reserve, measured it and computed the range. Should be less of an issue with the big tank. One of these days I might spring for a larger tank, for now I just haul some extra in a tank saddlebag if I'm going the distance. Anyone have a good trick for getting the fuel to flow from the "lower" portions of the oversize tanks? I'd be curious to know how much it truly is.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:34 AM   #7070
Dilliw
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Originally Posted by farmer fred View Post
How was the ride?

Apparently there is no inlet filter on the petcock fitted to the Clarke tank on my DR. I could watch little bits of crap flowing through the fuel line, and now my needle and seat is stuck, first almost closed and alternately overflowing.

I'll be pulling the carb apart again and adding an inline filter. At least I got the bike to where it will start on the second kick from cold (after the 5-6 cranks with the decompressor pulled in).

Does the Clarke tank take a bespoke petcock or is it made to take the OEM item?
You guys are both ahead of me. I just got back from Philly on Saturday and opened my box from Jessie: Mod'd muffler, needle, jet, mixture screw, and extended clutch arm. I worked up the carb and then started to put everything back together beginning with the clutch. Right off the bat trouble! The cable was down to 2 strands at the clutch arm and would have probably failed on the next ride or so. That extended arm purchase may have saved me from a really crappy day! New cable from Rocky Mtn on the way, but it will be next weekend before I can sort things fully. I ran the bike for a few minutes though and it does sound better with the mods.

What did you guys do about the muffler to head pipe joint? I re-used the stock bushing but it's not in great shape after the removal process and I'm getting some leaking there. Did you replace it or use something else?

Geo
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:47 AM   #7071
mel brooks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dilliw View Post
What did you guys do about the muffler to head pipe joint? I re-used the stock bushing but it's not in great shape after the removal process and I'm getting some leaking there. Did you replace it or use something else?

Geo

jesse sent me a new mesh connector bushing deal-thingy with my newly modded pipe. I assume it's a stock part I guess? Give Jesse a call....
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:54 AM   #7072
farmer fred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dilliw View Post
You guys are both ahead of me. I just got back from Philly on Saturday and opened my box from Jessie: Mod'd muffler, needle, jet, mixture screw, and extended clutch arm. I worked up the carb and then started to put everything back together beginning with the clutch. Right off the bat trouble! The cable was down to 2 strands at the clutch arm and would have probably failed on the next ride or so. That extended arm purchase may have saved me from a really crappy day! New cable from Rocky Mtn on the way, but it will be next weekend before I can sort things fully. I ran the bike for a few minutes though and it does sound better with the mods.

What did you guys do about the muffler to head pipe joint? I re-used the stock bushing but it's not in great shape after the removal process and I'm getting some leaking there. Did you replace it or use something else?

Geo

God, you should see the cobble where my stock head pipe connects to the SuperTrapp. The PO used a car-type muffler clamp, some kind of muffler tape, and a hose clamp. When I get the carb and petcock sorted, I'll haul the bike over to my friendly welder/machinist and we'll make it better somehow. He's got a stash of the good T-clamps and a selection of stainless exhaust pipe scraps.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:55 AM   #7073
farmer fred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LawrenceTheCat View Post
I noticed the Raptor unit has a longer "on" pickup tube than stock, and my first tankful confirmed it, lost a few miles in the on position. Kinda sucks to be riding in the twilight zone of reserve, I just drained my tank into a container while on reserve, measured it and computed the range. Should be less of an issue with the big tank. One of these days I might spring for a larger tank, for now I just haul some extra in a tank saddlebag if I'm going the distance. Anyone have a good trick for getting the fuel to flow from the "lower" portions of the oversize tanks? I'd be curious to know how much it truly is.
If the screen will pull off, you could just shorten the brass tube and push it back on.
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:01 AM   #7074
BikePilot
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My DR250SE's carb is acting up (stock CV carb, essentially the same as the 350's CV carb). This morning I noted that it had dribbled a little fuel on the ground under the motor, the front of the carb was a little wet and the motor seemed a bit flooded (but did start). It felt really rich at idle when running.

I've never messed with the carb and its run perfectly for the past 12k miles till this morning (it hasn't sat without running for more than 2-3 days for quite some time so not likely gummed up). Any likely culprits? I'm guessing that maybe there's a seal around the needle/seat that's gone bad and is overflowing the float bowl (and maybe the vent hose is partially clogged - don't know why that would flood the motor).

Note, its got an acerbis tank so no worries wrt the vacuum petcock as it hasn't got one.
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:10 AM   #7075
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot View Post
I'm guessing that maybe there's a seal around the needle/seat that's gone bad
That's where I'd start. I was putting my DR250S back together last night and it was spilling fuel everywhere so I pulled carb apart. It has an unconventional float bracket. It looks like a little plastic cage. It is free on the needle side, but held in place with an O-ring and friction fit on the opposite side, just pull it straight out. Then you will have access to the needle seat. It is also held in place with an O-ring and friction fit. The O-ring on my seat had shrunk so the seat could fall right out and this is how fuel was overflowing the bowl. I replaced it with an O-ring from the hardware store an that fixed the problem.
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:18 AM   #7076
BikePilot
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Cool thanks. I'm sure those poor little o-rings weren't intended to deal with ethanol either. I bet that's my problem. I'll have a go at it tonight. If I both it up I'll be riding the XRR to work I guess
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:44 AM   #7077
RiverRatRider13
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Location: Utah and thousand islands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastBoundAndDown View Post
I bought these so I can keep the same bars and even cheaper yet, but what you posted is a good deal for sure.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=25849
how do you like them??? any pics of them on the bike? I read the reviews and some people said the bolts bottomed out before you could get it tight, did you have this issue with the DR? I was thinking of buying a set for my dr350 and as a b day present to my little brother for his xt600.
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:02 PM   #7078
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverRatRider13 View Post
how do you like them??? any pics of them on the bike? I read the reviews and some people said the bolts bottomed out before you could get it tight, did you have this issue with the DR? I was thinking of buying a set for my dr350 and as a b day present to my little brother for his xt600.
I'm thrilled with mine. I (and my father in law) have dropped my DR a bunch of times, including a couple of nasty ones where the full weight of the bike landed on the end of the handlebar/barkbuster. No bends, no damage.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:00 PM   #7079
EastBoundAndDown
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Location: Lawrenceville, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverRatRider13 View Post
how do you like them??? any pics of them on the bike? I read the reviews and some people said the bolts bottomed out before you could get it tight, did you have this issue with the DR? I was thinking of buying a set for my dr350 and as a b day present to my little brother for his xt600.
I haven't got them in the mail, however I had the same ones on my RM250 a while ago, and they worked fine, the bolts have allen-key heads and were certainly long enough, it comes with different bolts at different lengths and also different heights for the rise. Worked fine for me, I just changed the bolts out for 12mm high strength ones.
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:44 PM   #7080
frdbronco8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastBoundAndDown View Post
I bought these so I can keep the same bars and even cheaper yet, but what you posted is a good deal for sure.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=25849
I almost went that route but I liked the idea of moving the bars forward so that they dont end up farther back on the bik because of the rake of the forks. Thats alot cheaper though
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