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Old 03-05-2011, 11:13 AM   #7516
Bob Onit
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Population 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robocog View Post
So its just a momentary switch?
eg push and hold to kill engine / push it and release for exhaust shotgun?
The idea is to wait until the engine has completely stopped rotating.
How much more simple can it be
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:29 AM   #7517
straight cut
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: GREAT BRITAIN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeore39648 View Post
What are the steps to removing the DR starter?
Looks to me, that the header has to be removed, and the crankcase breather hose, just to start.
Thanks in advance.
Ive just replaced the brushes in my starter
Remove header pipe
Oil feed pipe
Cam chain tensioner
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:30 AM   #7518
PHILinFRANCE
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Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
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Hey don't tell me Rob.......after 20 mins of kicking !!!!!! that IDIOT was me !!! Good luck with the DR mate .............covered about 500km off road round us on mine and loved every minute of it still can't belive how much GRUNT it's got


Looks the dogs bolloxs Slarti thanks i'll be taking a look on fleabay

Phil
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:05 PM   #7519
jcalis
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Joined: May 2008
Location: S.E. Massachusetts
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Quote:
Bought a DR250S
Found out after buying (via the group I went greenlaning with) that my engine had seized last they went out as a group
apparently an object (log?) went into the gap on the sump guard and knocked off an oil line
First the previous owner knew was when the rear wheel locked up and the engine wouldn't crank
The DR head will take most of the damage when you loose oil pressure. The camshaft will tear into the aluminum head journals very quickly and stop the engine. The bottom end is usually fine, the bearings on the crank and connecting rod will survive without oil for a short time. I have seen this happen on a DR350 when a rock split the lower oil line. The head journals were trashed, along with the camshaft, followers, and valves. Nothing from the original head could be re-used.
You would be looking at replacing the entire head and gaskets to get the bike runnning again. If your bike has a lot of miles on it, consider replacing the piston and rings while you have it apart.
"Persuade" the seller to pick up some of the cost for the replacement parts. Bastard!
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:42 PM   #7520
TKsquints
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Location: Fort Collins CO
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Hey everyone, I know I have read it somewhere on this thread, but the search never works for me. What 16 tooth counter shaft sprocket will fit on the dr? I think it is one for the earlier year DRZ but dont remember. Gonna do a ride with a long stretch of pavement and wanna get a little higher cruising speed.
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:28 PM   #7521
robocog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit View Post
The idea is to wait until the engine has completely stopped rotating.
How much more simple can it be
I'll take that as a yes then
bared end of dangling wire hanging within reach of the bar?
I vaguely recall old lawn mowers having a grounded spring that you pushed agaist the tip of the spark plug to "make them stop"
Elf and safety no doubt has banned them

Regards
Rob
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:42 PM   #7522
NJ-Brett
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That sucks, but on the positive side, you have a lot of spare parts.
I would try and get something out of the dirtbag that sold it...even if its just rebuild beer...



Quote:
Originally Posted by robocog View Post
Lifes too short
I paid 600 for the bike and it was sold as seen I guess (ebay states this?)
I should have looked and listened harder at the time of sale and asked more direct questions, but was blinded and deafened by the prosepect of getting my first road legal dirt bike

It's not the way I would have sold the bike (esp as he knew I'd eventually bump into somone who knew the bikes history!) but we all operate differently

At the end of the day all in it hasn't cost me mega money (paid 100 for the donor engine)
DR's in good working condition (when they turn up) are seemingly being sold at more than the bike stands me so far - so I'm just going to roll my sleeves up and make the best I can with what I have and enjoy it

Will post any gory internal shots once I get stripping

Hopefully the outcome will be one happy working bike and a spare engine I can recondition (using more commonly available 350 internals perhaps?)

Regards
Rob
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:59 PM   #7523
Jay
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Location: Mariposa, CA
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Cry Slow Starting - followup - How to remove starter motor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay View Post
Thanks, that is a solution I hadn't thought about. There is always more to do....
Quote:
Originally Posted by straight cut View Post
I had a similar problem, my starter ceased to turn the engine, i removed the starter motor stripped it and found one of the carbon brushes eroded.I installed a new set of brushes and now the starter spins the engine over so much faster
So here I am two days before leaving for a week in Death Valley. And the bike won't start. The starter barely turns. I checked voltages and it seemed like the starter relay may be bad, so I ordered one from Suzuki. But it doesn't arrive until at least next Wednesday. The parts guy suggested, as did Straightcut, to clean the starter motor.

But I can't get the motor off the bike! Only 2 bolts and push it out of the drive teeth...how hard can that be. Well it appears that several other pieces need to be removed to make room to push it back and I am getting in over my head.

Anyone have any advice on getting the starter motor off the engine?
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:00 PM   #7524
clab04
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Location: Deep Gap, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKsquints View Post
Hey everyone, I know I have read it somewhere on this thread, but the search never works for me. What 16 tooth counter shaft sprocket will fit on the dr? I think it is one for the earlier year DRZ but dont remember. Gonna do a ride with a long stretch of pavement and wanna get a little higher cruising speed.
Yes, they will fit. Suzuki didin't change the shaft for years. You will not be able to use the front guard and I have heard that sometimes it rubs the case. That's why it says DRZ only. I found one at this site: http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/s...16/index.shtml
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Hey hey hey! Don't you think he is dead enough?
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:05 PM   #7525
clab04
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DR350 frame

I have a frame for sale.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DR-35...Q5fAccessories
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Hey hey hey! Don't you think he is dead enough?
Well he shouldn't have been playing on my side of the street!
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:25 PM   #7526
dtp
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Location: Turlock, California
Oddometer: 383
Thinking about suspension upgrades...

According to RaceTech.com I should have a 0.476 spring in the front (stock is a 0.390) and a 5.6 in the back.

OK that's cool, but the RaceTech website says the stock rear spring is a 5.7 and my ride sag seems way too high. I was reading you want it to be about 1/3 of your total suspension travel so I would need a stiffer spring. That kind of goes against my gut feeling that the stock spring is a 5.7 because that would mean its the ideal spring but the spring length adjustment on the shock is already set to the "stiff" range in the service manual.

So then I went to I went to the Eibach website and they are saying the stock rear spring is only a 4.8 which jibes more with my results and gut.

Anyone know which it is?

Anyone who weighs about 180 do this and what springs did you get?

Will you get noticable/good results with just a spring and without revalving or is it only worth it if you go all the way? I don't want to drop a ton of cash.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:34 AM   #7527
elroyjetsn
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Location: Martinsburg, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robocog View Post

Just uploaded to youtube a vid of the bad noises
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8BEs5PFkU

I did the valve clearances when I first bought it and they had opened up rather than closed in suggesting I'm going to find material missing from cam journals, cam lobes and follower pads

I managed to get hold of another engine (top end is in bits) but looks fresh enough to re-use apart from the exhaust follower, which has migrated some material to the cam lobe

Do I just build the second engine up and bolt it in ?
or start to investigate the noises on the original one - using the parts I have on the second engine as a donor- picking the best of the bunch as I go along?

I'm curious to know what the noises are....place your bets now....

Will video or photo my findings as I go along

Regards
Rob
I've heard a lot worse... Timing chain comes to mind. I'd check the adjuster before getting to involved.
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:32 AM   #7528
robocog
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Decided to take the cam cover off to have a sneak peak...

Not looking good in there....lots of signs of the lack of oil
Top end is toast....

























Soon as I have gaskets in my posession I'm going to tear into the next layer down and have a look at the piston/bore and the state of the conrod and crank bearings....hoping I can fix the issues by bolting the other top end on without having to remove the engine and split the crank cases....fingers crossed its the top end that took the brunt

Am going to be documenting it as I go along on my website
http://www.robocog.dyndns.org/motorb...250_engine.php

Regards
Rob
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:35 AM   #7529
robocog
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I posted a reply with pics of the top end damage so far
(only got as far as the cam cover as I'm awaiting gaskets to arrive still)

Got a message saying it has to be approved by a moderator first ...

Hopefully it'll turn up, but for those that cannot wait to see the carnage that happens when you loose the oil but carry on regardless...
I have put some words and pictures on my website
http://www.robocog.dyndns.org/motorb...250_engine.php

I already took the spring out of the (cam chain) adjuster and removed it ....and sure enough it has no more adjustment on it
Initially I tried to convince myself that if I just replaced the cam chain the noises /may/ go away....but I know for sure now its gone a bit further than that...and I'm going to have to get stripping till I get rid of all the melted broken and wonky bits

Regards
Rob

robocog screwed with this post 03-06-2011 at 10:35 AM
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:30 AM   #7530
hajime
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Sorry to see that. Looks like you have a mess and lots of work to do.

"Decided to take the cam cover off to have a sneak peak..."
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