DR350 Thread

[slartidbartfast]

Originally Posted by blue dog

I have a few questions

has anyone tested what octane runs the best and gives the most MPG?

and good jet size for a stock DR350 mine seems to run lean has a 128 jet. runs great but backfires alittle when engine breaking

also what brand of motor oil do you guys like best? Im using spectro 10-40

Can't help with the octane question as mine is non-stock (435cc) I've only run regular in it and it doesn't ping on that so that would make regular the best choice for me.

Backfiring when engine braking could be due to an air leak somewhere in the exhaust system but is more likely a sign of a partially plugged or undersized pilot jet (the main jet has nothing to do with this)

I have found with oil that changing it and checking it occasionally are the best practices. I think I'm using 15W40 Rotella

[jcalis]

Thanks for the tips!

I've seen writeups on this spacer trick for my VStrom. It never occured to me to try it on the DR. I might just give that a shot. Worst that can happen is I buy new front springs. Money saved on springs could go to a front or rear revalve.

What weight oil do people use when doing this?
__________________

1990-1997 DR350"S" models have damper-rod forks and use 15w oil.
1998 and 1999 have cartridge type forks and use 5w oil.

Rear shock (all models) use 10w shock fluid.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by Gage

I remember seeing a few pages back something about someone making there own custom racks... Are they by any chance now selling them on ebay?

The link to the rack below looks suspiciously a lot like what some of the pictures were. If so is this a good rack? For $60 it cant be beat if its good!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...ht_2329wt_1167

Yep, those are the ManRacks that Mike has been making. He's got them listed on eBay or on his website: www.manracks.com

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[halmc]

I understand that timing chain adjustment on our beloved DR350's is totally automatic; that is, the chain tensioner responds to normal wear until the chain stretches to the end of its useful life, and that there is no manual adjustment to be had, short of installing a new chain, if/when that time should come.

Correct?

(Just wanna make sure I'm not neglecting a service item)

Lastly, I forget the rule on comma splices. Does it show?

[BikePilot]

Correct.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by halmc

I understand that timing chain adjustment on our beloved DR350's is totally automatic; that is, the chain tensioner responds to normal wear until the chain stretches to the end of its useful life, and that there is no manual adjustment to be had, short of installing a new chain, if/when that time should come.

Correct?

(Just wanna make sure I'm not neglecting a service item)

Lastly, I forget the rule on comma splices. Does it show?

That is correct. You can check how much wear you have remaining by removing the tensioner, allowing it to fully extend, then insert it back in place (full extended) and measure your remaining space.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[dtp]

Originally Posted by jcalis

1990-1997 DR350"S" models have damper-rod forks and use 15w oil.
1998 and 1999 have cartridge type forks and use 5w oil.

Rear shock (all models) use 10w shock fluid.

Another question to pick your brain. Can the spring shortening be done without removing the forks or do I have to tear out the whole front end? What about oil change? On-bike or disassemble?

[waAvr]

Originally Posted by Gage

I remember seeing a few pages back something about someone making there own custom racks... Are they by any chance now selling them on ebay?

The link to the rack below looks suspiciously a lot like what some of the pictures were. If so is this a good rack? For $60 it cant be beat if its good!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...ht_2329wt_1167

Seems interesting it's cheaper to buy them on ebay rather than from his site?

[marksbonneville]

I did not know they could even be purchased yet, thought they were still in the prototype phase.

Originally Posted by waAvr

Seems interesting it's cheaper to buy them on ebay rather than from his site?

[jcalis]

Originally Posted by dtp

Another question to pick your brain. Can the spring shortening be done without removing the forks or do I have to tear out the whole front end? What about oil change? On-bike or disassemble?

You will need to remove the forks to do an oil change. They must be turned upside-down to drain completely. Slowly moving the damper rod fully in and out helps get all the old oil out of the tubes.

You need to remove the brake caliper, speedo cable guide, and front wheel / axle. Loosen the top clamp pinch bolts but leave the bottom ones tight. This will allow you to get a socket on the top cap to break it free. Once that is done loosen the lower clamp bolts and drop the fork tubes.

There are some decent videos on youtube (uploaded by RockyMountainMC) that show basic fork service. They may deal with USD cartridge forks, but it will give you an idea of what to expect. Look for the cartridge videos, not the "dual-chamber" videos, as they are very different from the DR forks.

[frdbronco8]

A buddy has a set of Yamaha WR426 forks he didn't use and it looks like the swap wouldn't be hard. He doesnt have the wheel for it though. It appears that the DR front wheel has a much smaller bearing and would not work. I would really like to keep the stock speedo for not only cost but I like the tach and the stock look. (and dont need any of the features of a vapor and would like to keep the stock mileage on the odo).

Anyone know if the Odometer drive on a WR wheel would fit the DR Speedometer cable? Looks like I could get a wheel on ebay for about $100 with everything on it. Would like to find something local on craigslist but pickins are slim for WR parts here.

Any other options/wheels to look for? YZ wheels are more available, could I use one of those with a WR odometer drive or is it completely different?

Thanks!

[dtp]

Originally Posted by jcalis

You will need to remove the forks to do an oil change. They must be turned upside-down to drain completely. Slowly moving the damper rod fully in and out helps get all the old oil out of the tubes.

You need to remove the brake caliper, speedo cable guide, and front wheel / axle. Loosen the top clamp pinch bolts but leave the bottom ones tight. This will allow you to get a socket on the top cap to break it free. Once that is done loosen the lower clamp bolts and drop the fork tubes.

There are some decent videos on youtube (uploaded by RockyMountainMC) that show basic fork service. They may deal with USD cartridge forks, but it will give you an idea of what to expect. Look for the cartridge videos, not the "dual-chamber" videos, as they are very different from the DR forks.

That doesn't sound too bad. Heck if I can change my own tires and chains I think I can handle that. Maybe not something I want to tackle before I head to a desert Enduro the 19th and 20th of this month but certainly something I think I'll end up doing before spring break... but then again it would be a huge improvement in handling especially in the sand washes.

Thanks for all your help!

[MiteyF]

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

A buddy has a set of Yamaha WR426 forks he didn't use and it looks like the swap wouldn't be hard. He doesnt have the wheel for it though. It appears that the DR front wheel has a much smaller bearing and would not work. I would really like to keep the stock speedo for not only cost but I like the tach and the stock look. (and dont need any of the features of a vapor and would like to keep the stock mileage on the odo).

Anyone know if the Odometer drive on a WR wheel would fit the DR Speedometer cable? Looks like I could get a wheel on ebay for about $100 with everything on it. Would like to find something local on craigslist but pickins are slim for WR parts here.

Any other options/wheels to look for? YZ wheels are more available, could I use one of those with a WR odometer drive or is it completely different?

Thanks!

Why can't you just press in new wheel bearings? I bet you could find a set that would work fine, and then just figure out spacers.

[elroyjetsn]

Originally Posted by blue dog

I have a few questions

has anyone tested what octane runs the best and gives the most MPG?

and good jet size for a stock DR350 mine seems to run lean has a 128 jet. runs great but backfires alittle when engine breaking

also what brand of motor oil do you guys like best? Im using spectro 10-40

The 350 has 9.5/1 compression and the 250 has 10/1 ratio, I think...

My DR250's owner's guide says 87 oct will do, but mine tends to knock on 87 noticeably. For a quarter more per fill-up mid premium makes more sense. The 350 may not care.

I've been using Suzuki OEM oil exclusively. 4.99 a quart for no worries.

[Sloppy]

Originally Posted by elroyjetsn

The 350 has 9.5/1 compression and the 250 has 10/1 ratio, I think...

My DR250's owner's guide says 87 oct will do, but mine tends to knock on 87 noticeably. For a quarter more per fill-up mid premium makes more sense. The 350 may not care.

I've been using Suzuki OEM oil exclusively. 4.99 a quart for no worries.

The guy I bought mine from said he always used 10W-40 auto oil since he bought the bike new in '92. Besides shifting harder, is there any problem with that?